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.gitlab-ci.yml
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image: python:alpine
image: python:3.8-slim
before_script:
- pip install -r requirements.txt
......
docs/assignments/week01.md
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......@@ -27,6 +27,12 @@ Also Fiore's tutorial has been very helpful here:
\* *I notice I'm becoming one of those people who writes documentation but doesn't explain the steps that already feel "normal" to me. Hmmm. I'll have a think to think what I think about that.*
## OR: push via http and access tokens
Later on I started using my Github Desktop app for a bunch of other stuff and my connection stopped working. I couldn't figure it out so I deleted the repository and cloned it anew over http. This [tutorial](https://itnext.io/how-to-use-github-desktop-with-gitlab-cd4d2de3d104) by Shedrack Akintayo explains how to use access tokens push without having to re-enter your password when pushing over http. Amazeballs, thank you Shedrack!
## Customizing text, fonts, colors in the mkdoc
I customized some basic stuff to change the look of the page. I love the font Karla, we use it for everything where I work, so I'm using it here too. I think you can basically look up any Google Font and use it. I liked the idea of having a special font for code, so I specified one for that as well.
......@@ -106,5 +112,108 @@ Then you keep the code you want to keep, delete the conflicting code and the mar
![](../images/wk1_solved.jpg)*conflicts resolved!*
##State of the art & inspiration
## Inspiration
### Fabricademy graduates
![](https://gitlab.fabcloud.org/academany/fabricademy/2019/students/jessica.stanley/raw/master/docs/images/finalproject/stitchsyth2.gif)*Jessica Stanley's Stitch Synth project, 2019*
**Jessica Stanley's Stitch Synth**
I saw [Jessica's work](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/projects/00final-project/) at the last Fabricademy expo in Amsterdam. Super nicely done.
I also really liked her experiments with tesselation in the Textile as Scaffold week. The slow movements the textile creates are really nice to watch.
And also her voronoi for [computational couture](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/assignments/week07/) are so cool. She printed these shapes on stretchy fabric, making the textile pull itself into a 3D shape.
And the pleat switch and this sensor below. OMG Jessica stop it nowwww I'm totally fangirling your fabricademy page. This makes me think I will really enjoy the electronics work in the next few months.
![](https://media.giphy.com/media/5k0rrSdjXmmQ68mABP/giphy.gif)*Jessica Stanley, 2019*
**Teresa van Twuijver's analog soft sensor**
[Teresa](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/teresa.vantwuijver/assignments/week05/) made this nice soft sensor using smock embroidery. I'd seen a similar thing on kobakant once, wow it's soooooo nice.
![](https://gitlab.fabcloud.org/academany/fabricademy/2019/students/teresa.vantwuijver/raw/master/docs/images/week5_softsensorproto2.gif)*Teresa van Twuijver, 2019*
Her [circular fashion designs](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/teresa.vantwuijver/assignments/week03/) are also quite cool!
**Barbara's Kombucher!**
Really cool idea to make a tool like this [kombucha fiber printer](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/barbara.arteaga/projects/final-project/)
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cuHtJgnv2qU" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
And many many more...
### Go big or go home: drag performers and other style queens
This is something I've been obsessed with for a long time. I think the innovative ways of thinking about the malleability and unstable nature of the body and gender is super interesting and made me fall in love with this art form. I do it myself sometimes too :) No RuPaul quote is lost on me (we're all born naked and the rest is...you know the rest). I'd love to take as many assignments as possible closer toward something that might be applicable in the context of the art of drag to develop into a larger project later. I imagine eco-aware drag could be a very interesting avenue to explore. In the meantime, I'll summarize as: go big, or go home.
**House of Holographic Hoes and Milk X Hana Quist**
A local house who did an amazing show at last year's superball, with over the top LED powered gowns. I mean, I don't really like LED strips so much, especially not in clothing but context IS everything.
Or drag performer Milk in this knitted number by Hana Quist. Oh yes.
![](../images/wk0_drag.jpg)*Left: House of Holographic Hoes at Paradiso's Superball, 2019. Right: Drag performer Milk in a knitted garment by Hana Quist*
**Other fabulous drag performers and style queens**
Such as Aynouk Tan - you can worry about the clothing mountain - or just dress up as one. I think [her thinking and personal style](https://www.aynouktan.com/) are really out there.
![Aynouk Tan](https://aynouktan.com/____impro/1/onewebmedia/10827970_10153943396384659_1941713512951619825_o-2.jpg?etag=%22464ea-58ef9af9%22&sourceContentType=image%2Fjpeg&ignoreAspectRatio&resize=700,467)*Aynouk Tan with a mic and smiling lady in black*
**I bow to Valeska Jasso Collado for her graduation collection**
These theatrical garments have an amazing genderclowning vibe about them, they remind me of [1920s Bauhaus costumes](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/U4wEGXhe1duKVyacjE6z3KsIFZg=/0x0:1000x645/1200x800/filters:focal(420x243:580x403)/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/57322995/escola_bauhaus.0.0.jpg)and I love it! She folded latex-covered foam into [geometric garments](https://www.dezeen.com/2014/06/09/valeska-jasso-collado-westminster-fashion-collection/).
![](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/3f/fd/40/3ffd409a341499881843557a29ac5b6f.jpg)*image by Valeska Jasso Colado*
### Textile artists/designers/upcyclists/hackers
![](../images/wk0_designinspiration.jpg)
*Images: Golden Joinery (image by Droog) in the background, Justyna Wolodkiewicz' embellishments (left) and Anya Hindmarch's embellished skirt (image by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images Europe)*
**[Golden Joinery](http://goldenjoinery.com/#about) or kintsugi for clothing, by Painted Series** is a really nice example of repair as a design strategy that adds value to used things.
I really enjoy the hectic **embellishments by Justyna Wolodkiewicz** and the one on the **pink skirt by Anya Hindmarch** There's loads out there. One reason why I like this is because I imagine picking cleverly from waste materials will allow for a lot of cool designs. They can also be combined with electronics perhaps? I really like the 3D textures you can add with this.
**Coral Love Stories by Kasia Molga (and Erik Overmeire)** below is such a beautiful combination of fashion and electronics and thermochromic pigments. It's very subtle, unlike some other sources of inspiration but I just think this is beautifully done and tells an important story about shringking coral reefs.
<div style="padding:56.25% 0 0 0;position:relative;"><iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/211299558?color=00d554&byline=0&portrait=0" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:100%;height:100%;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><script src="https://player.vimeo.com/api/player.js"></script>*Coral Love Story by Kasia Molga (with Erik Overmeire and Ricardo O'Nascimento)*
And let's not forget the amazing experiments and documentation done by **[Plusea on the Kobakant How to Get What You Want page](https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/)**, such as this beardy sway sensor....*bows*.
![](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47790755952_9b33dd38fa.jpg)
Last but not least, a shop! **[Mooizooi in Haarlem](https://mooizooi.org/)!** This is a social enterprise that collects waste materials from industry, sort it by color, and sell it for almost nothing. I'd love to stop by there and use only this leftover material, for example to make the embellishments like the ones below.
**My own students who have inspired me!**
The students I get to know during the minor Makers Lab continue to inspire, teach and challenge(!) me loads. Some of their experiments were really great!
![](../images/wk0_studentwork.jpg)
Top left is Geert Lens' textile touchscreen entirely made from scratch (2018). He developed a ropemaker to insulate conductive thread, a loom to make the textile, and of course programmed the sensor himself.
Geert also made this glove (bottom left) that vibrates when it senses peaks in electromagnetic fields, such as when a subway train pulls out of a station (together with Anton Westin and Jaap Spruitenburg 2018). The wanted to explore invisible signals in the city and found that some people are extremely sensitive to EMFs, whereas most of us aren't even aware of them.
Melissa de Bie and Elisa van der Burg's and bioplastics experiments to research how they could make the gorgeous tote bag in 2019 (middle).
Kristin Jakubek & Frida Eriksson's skin sensor (with some help of Geert) from 2018 (top right).
Geert's coils that pick up some residue energy from RFID scanners, just enough to light up an LED (bottom right).
### Books
* Radical Matter: Rethinking Materials for a Sustainable Future by Kate Franklin
* Zeroes and Ones by Sadie Plant
* Fray by Julia Bryan-Wilson
* Folding Techniques for Designers From Sheet to Form by Paul Jackson
* Supersurfaces" Folding as Method of Generating Forms for Architecture, Products and Fashion by Sophia Vyzoviti
That's it for now!
docs/assignments/week03.md
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# 3. Circular fashion
![]()<br>
*Image of the final result of the week*
![](../images/wk3final1.jpg)<br>
*One of the final designs made with the modules, Loes Bogers, 2019*
##Assignment must-haves
......@@ -195,14 +195,51 @@ Not entirely, because of the fact that I have 7 pieces. I cannot nest them seaml
![](../images/wk03_cutfile.jpg)<br>
*Cutfile for the six modules, Loes Bogers*
![](../images/wk3basket.jpg) Round and round we go, tinkering with the modules, Loes Bogers, 2019.
## Assembling
In the end I tinkered a lot with the modules to see how I could combine them to create various shapes. I made big sheets combining different modules, by going bigger or smaller per row to understand what kind of shapes it would create. I didn't quite realize how long it was going to take me to create a big surface, and I ran out of material so I settled on a garment I could make with the amount of modules I'd cut.
**The mad hatter**
I quite liked the crazy crowns and hats that came out but thought they were really a bit to straight, considering the work I'd put in to try make curves and 3D shapes.
![](https://media.giphy.com/media/S8O6BQcPNN0I9LEkGj/giphy.gif)<br>*Mad hatter experiments with the modules, Loes Bogers, 2020*
**Shoulder piece/choker/headpiece in one**
I thought that the curvy shape it was making could work really nicely as a sort of necklace/choker/harness that follows the curves of my neck and shoulders. And it turned out it also works as a headpiece. Very maleficents.
![](https://media.giphy.com/media/Lnbx3LU39qhjw68tcE/giphy.gif) <br> *Option 3: a maleficent inspired headpiece, Loes Bogers, 2019*
## The not-so-ultimate ikea guide to DIY this
### Design files
To make this piece you need to cut these amounts of modules 3-6 (modules 1-2 are too small and fragile, module 7 is a bit too big for this), or more/less depending on your size. I'm a size UK10, EUR38.
| Row | Amount | Module |
|-----|-----------------|---------|
| 1 | 21x | module 3 |
| 2 | 21x | module 3 |
| 3 | 21x | module 4 |
| 4 | 21x | module 4 (turned 90 degrees counter clockwise) |
| 5 | 21x | module 5 (orientation like row 4) |
| 6 | 21x | module 6 (orientation like row 5) |
| 7 | 21x | module 6 (orientation like row 5) |
Find the .ai design files [here](../files/wk03_modules.ai). These were cut with the settings speed 150, power 25.
![](https://media.giphy.com/media/WtVPTtZZzHF7xLk7tx/giphy.gif)<br>*option 1 and 2: a shoulder piece or a choker, Loes Bogers, 2020*
### How-to
## Room for improvement?
The design for the choker, the shoulder piece and the head piece are all the same. Starting from the left ear, you want to start with a row of 21 x module 3, and then to that line start attaching the other modules following the table above.
For a headpiece you might want to mount it on a plastic head band/tiara, or secure it to your hair or wig with bobby pins.
![](../images/wk3howto.jpg)
## Tutorial by Cecilia
......
docs/assignments/week04.md
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......@@ -11,9 +11,9 @@ The students in the Amsterdam lab collaborated to make a shared repository of dy
![](../images/wk04_collage.jpg)*A love affair with cabbage, Loes Bogers 2019*
**Dying silk with bacteria**<br>
And lastly, dyed a piece of silk using Serratia Marcensis grown and nurtured by Cecilia and her collaborators at the Biolab. We cooked the growing medium together, sterilized together and each dyed our own piece of silk:
And lastly, dyed a piece of silk using Serratia marcenscens grown and nurtured by Cecilia and her collaborators at the Biolab. We cooked the growing medium together, sterilized together and each dyed our own piece of silk:
![](../images/wk04_bacteriasilk2.jpg)*Silk died with Serratia Marcensis, Loes Bogers 2019*
![](../images/wk04_bacteriasilk2.jpg)*Silk died with Serratia marcenscens, Loes Bogers 2019*
**Inks**<br>
We made a range of inks based on the dye recipes (some modified, others not) and experimented with it on paper, using several modifiers.
......@@ -242,10 +242,10 @@ Once you start working with the bacteria themselves: close doors and windows to
Sign in and out and clean up your dishes. Through away the water after.
###Meeting Serratia Marcensis
We met Serratia Marcensis! A red/orange beauty that gives us pink (in acidic solutions) if you treat her well and feed her peanut butter. They used to keep a purple one too but sadly it died when the freezer broke over summer. You have to keep her alive by giving her new food every few days (replating).
###Meeting Serratia marcenscens
We met Serratia marcenscens! A red/orange beauty that gives us pink (in acidic solutions) if you treat her well and feed her peanut butter. They used to keep a purple one too but sadly it died when the freezer broke over summer. You have to keep her alive by giving her new food every few days (replating).
![](../images/wk04_thebacteria.jpg)*Serratia Marcensis at the biolab, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk04_thebacteria.jpg)*Serratia marcenscens at the biolab, Loes Bogers, 2019*
###Growing media, or: what to feed Serratia
Plate some growing media mixed with crunchy(!) peanut butter. Nuts and seeds can do wonders with some bacteria. We prepared these growing media:
......@@ -267,8 +267,8 @@ We measure the ingredients with a precision scale (stabilize before using), by p
Then we sterilized the food bottles. The lid should be loose! Otherwise it can explode in the pressure cooker. You close them after sterilizing.
*Autokleeftape!*
Stick a bit of autokleeftape to the top. It has diagonal lines that turn dark if you sterilized correctly. Handy....
*Autoclave tape!*
Stick a bit of autoclave tape to the top. It has diagonal lines that turn dark if you sterilized correctly. Handy....
*Handling the pressure cooker*
Close the lid, seal the lid (locking it), and turn the knob to position 2. When the little pin firmly comes *all the way out*, the cooker is under pressure and you can start the timer for 15 mins.
......@@ -281,7 +281,7 @@ We each got a piece of silk that we folded or crumpled up to create patterns/sym
![](../images/wk04_folding.gif)<br>*My folding improvisation, Loes Bogers, 2019*
Put the fabrics in **glass petri dishes**, or in a heat-resistant **autoplate bag**. Again, stick some autokleeftape on to assess whether it sterilized correctly. Sterilize for at least 15 mins under pressure in the pressure cooker.
Put the fabrics in **glass petri dishes**, or in a heat-resistant **autoclave bag**. Again, stick some autokleeftape on to assess whether it sterilized correctly. Sterilize for at least 15 mins under pressure in the pressure cooker.
###Plating
......
docs/assignments/week05.md
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docs/assignments/week06.md
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......@@ -750,6 +750,9 @@ There are so many out there. They are so interestinggggg.
* Materfad Barcelona
* Surfacematter London
* Materio
* Materiom
* The Institute of Making
* Mlab, Aarhuns
* many many more, see slides.
These are not only about the materials but also about finishings!
docs/assignments/week07.md
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......@@ -5,7 +5,7 @@
We built a prototype for a sheet casting tool to accommodate our needs and desires to produce large and evenly flat sheet materials made of bioplastics such as the gelatine and agar-based ones, and the alginate plastics we made last week. We tested the machine by casting a sheet with alginate plastic. So far, the machine functions and we made a lovely 2mm sheet with it (which shrank a bit)l but could be improved by finding a better solution for keep the walls together – the silicon glue didn’t hold. And also the wiper or squeegee could have a deeper wiping edge so the strips can act as walls. Excess liquid will creep up, and could be contained if the wiper sinks a little deeper by default. Anyway, details details. Here's our working prototype!
The machine might need some iterations but has potential to allow us to research shrinkage, cast the exact same kinds of sheets, comparing recipes etc etc. Even do small batches of production.
The machine could benefit from further iterating but as is already has potential to allow us to research shrinkage, cast the exact same kinds of sheets, comparing recipes etc etc. Even do small batches of production of larger sheets (500x1000mm).
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_On_QeLUTkM?controls=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
......@@ -20,8 +20,6 @@ Mar: suggested to put a railing to keep the height precise. In the industry they
Anastasia: suggested to also include more technical drawings, maybe imagining how this machine might work in industry (more automated).
Response: Yes! We're working on an IKEA-style construction manual based on our Rhino files. It's taking a little longer though.
Question: How do you put calcium chloride below?
Answer: We don't, it dries very nicely with a beautiful gloss. It takes a little longer to cure because it only cures from the top, but the results are much nicer. It shrinks more than when you cast on top of a fabric though, this is true. But dat shine doe!
......@@ -52,7 +50,7 @@ But our main source of inspiration was actually the week where we worked with bi
Consequently we did a solo brainstorm, writing down our ideas and desires on post-its, in whichever shaper or form they’d come. It was allowed to have more abstract or general desires/interests you wish to address with a machine, or they could already by concrete ideas for machines. We had a bit of everything, said them out loud, and stuck them on a big sheet.
![](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/images/wk07brainstorm.jpg)*Impression of all the ideas we cooked up in our brainstorm, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk07brainstorm.jpg)*Impression of all the ideas we cooked up in our brainstorm, Loes Bogers, 2019*
Then we did a dot vote: each person could give an idea one dot, one idea two dots, and one idea three dots. The ideas with a lot of votes were discussed more in detail, and we also assessed how realistic the idea was to do in a week, with the skills and knowledge we already have at the moment. Some ideas had been done before so they were also put aside for now.
......@@ -62,12 +60,9 @@ More than making the majority vote count, we decided we wanted to end on an idea
Finding the elements of the machine through sketching. We started at the bottom and started constructing the machine in our imagination and on paper, thinking through all the problems we could foresee, and trying to draw out conclusions for each.
![](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/images/wk07darwings.jpg)*Impression of the amount of sketching we did, 2019*
They helped us to literally get on the same page. Just not Bea's if you have heavy handwriting (;-) love you girl, amazing tech drawings you do). As we went through all the different parts that needed to be designed and made and assembled, something of a task division also emerged. We needed a watertight box with an acrylic bottom and walls. It needs an escape hatch to pour excess materials out of. We needed a squeegee or wiper to speed up the pouring process or for spreading thicker (slower) plastics such as the thick alginate recipes. But we also need a door to close the escape hatch in case we’re working with very liquid recipes. The walls need to be able to come out so you can fix a (textured) textile to the bottom and cast on top of that. We need 2D casting moulds to make nice textures, and maybe get some large pieces of textured fabrics that can cover the box. We asked Michelle to design something that allows us to also create rhythmic stamp patterns evenly.
![](../images/wk07darwings.jpg)*Impression of the amount of sketching we did, 2019*
**Stamping module**
[INSERT NOTES MICHELLE]
They helped us to literally get on the same page. Just not Bea's if you have heavy handwriting (;-) love you girl, amazing tech drawings you do). As we went through all the different parts that needed to be designed and made and assembled, something of a task division also emerged. We needed a watertight box with an acrylic bottom and walls. It needs an escape hatch to pour excess materials out of. We needed a squeegee or wiper to speed up the pouring process or for spreading thicker (slower) plastics such as the thick alginate recipes. But we also need a door to close the escape hatch in case we’re working with very liquid recipes. The walls need to be able to come out so you can fix a (textured) textile to the bottom and cast on top of that. We need 2D casting moulds to make nice textures, and maybe get some large pieces of textured fabrics that can cover the box.
We decided on a size of 500x1000mm casting area, and worked around that measure. We made a rough sketch to scale to see if we could cut all these parts out of the sheet materials we had available at the lab (acrylic sheets and triplex wood), this helped us make a shopping list, and off we went to the woodshop.
......@@ -75,7 +70,7 @@ We decided on a size of 500x1000mm casting area, and worked around that measure.
Our local woodshop Houthandel Schmidt is located in Amsterdam’s red light district, so it’s always a lively walk going there. It’s been in business for 150 years already and is located at a beautiful old squeeky narrow building. We feel like craftwomen already.
![](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/images/wk07woodshop.jpg)*Us shopping at Houthandel Schmidt: Tens tens tens across the board!*
![](../images/wk07woodshop.jpg)*Us shopping at Houthandel Schmidt: Tens tens tens across the board!*
The main thing we needed were metal rods to keep the wiper height strips stacked in place. We weren’t sure what to call them (in Dutch) though, and it continued to be a source of mixups and laughter. Luckily Cecilia already knew where to find these thingies in the shop so we could just point it out. But seriously though, is it a pipe, rod, a screw, a bolt or a metal stick? Maybe it doesn’t matter if you know where to get it. A conversation at the wood shop:
......@@ -123,7 +118,6 @@ Our names for stuff! Very important here. They might not be “correct”, they
* Diameter symbol: ⌀
* Industrial nailpolish a.k.a. Fastdrying acrylic glue that comes in a bottle with a brush.
[]()*[INSERT] An overview of our tools and our lovely naming scheme, Paulina Martina, 2019*
##Inching in on sizes and settings
......@@ -131,7 +125,7 @@ After all the rough sketching and measuring, Bea made beautiful softly drawn tec
* Paulina did some tests to find the perfect width of the profile in the bottom layer to support acrylic walls. We thought we’d need to spread acrylic across the sides of the profile, but it wasn’t necessary. With Loes they found a manual way to make a snug fit to keep the walls standing upright.
![](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/images/wk07snug.jpg)*Manual precision technique to create a snug 4 mm profile to sink the walls into, by Paulina and Loes, 2019*
![](../images/wk07snug.jpg)*Manual precision technique to create a snug 4 mm profile to sink the walls into, by Paulina and Loes, 2019*
* Testing screw, I mean rod, I mean bolt holes (shaft diameter vs. screw wire diameter!) > 5.65 mm for 5.7 mm bolt diameter.
* Finding settings to laser cut 4 mm acrylic. Finding the safe zone that works across the bed, testing with pieces big enough to let the laser catch up to the set speed (min 10 cm test pieces). Speed 18 power 100.
......@@ -162,11 +156,11 @@ We brushed upon each others limits here and there. Emotions might have been expr
Bea did a super job designing the cutsheets for our machine!
![](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/images/wk07cutfile1.png)
![](../images/wk07cutfile1.png)
![](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/images/wk07cutfile2.png)
![](../images/wk07cutfile2.png)
![](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/images/wk07cutfile3.png)*Cutfiles for the Squeegee2000, Beatriz Sandini, 2019.*
![](../images/wk07cutfile3.png)*Cutfiles for the Squeegee2000, Beatriz Sandini, 2019.*
During the cutting process we ran into quite a few hurdles, that we overcame of course. But it was annoying too. Our design file was made in Rhino, exported as .dxf (trying all possible export settings), and using LaserWorks software to send files to the machine. Some issues and their solutions:
......@@ -182,7 +176,13 @@ During the cutting process we ran into quite a few hurdles, that we overcame of
##Rhino design tips (now we’ve found all cutting hurdles)
[INSERT] Bea's notes here on exploding and exporting!
We had many different problems, comes and goes from Rhino to the laser cut software. I believe the main reason was related to how the polylines were constructed and that they were being exported as very complex shapes for the laser cut program to read.
After all making these basic commands showed the best success rate: **Group** all your shapes, then **Explode** (it breaks into single unit objects, polylines or surfaces depending on the object), after that **SelDup**, this will shows the curves you have duplicated, you can just delete those. Now make sure to select the lines you want the laser cut to run all together and command **Join** do this for all the different groups. Having everything selected, go to File > Export selected > DXF option.
At some moment, based on Cecilia’s recommendation, what made the file work was going into **Options** on the export settings and choose for “2007 Polylines” option. But in some other attempts it didn’t make a difference, so not really sure what is the final conclusion here. But if nothing else works, maybe you want to consider trying it as well!!
[Rhino File](https://gitlab.fabcloud.org/academany/fabricademy/2020/students/beatriz.sandini/raw/master/docs/files/week%207/Neatfier_Final.3dm)
##Assembling
......@@ -236,12 +236,13 @@ Cook up a batch of bioplastic and test it!
We are also creating an IKEA style instruction manual to go with the designs for anyone who would like to recreate it.
![](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/images/wk07comicbook.jpeg)*Fragment of the instruction manual being designed by Paulina Martina, 2019*
![](../images/wk07comicbook.jpeg)*Fragment of the instruction manual being designed by Paulina Martina, 2019*
##Mould and template design process
**Software: Adobe Illustrator**
*Process: *
*Process:*<br>
* Set-up an Artboard to the dimensions of the machine bed;
In this case we removed 2mm from L and W to allow comfort fit
......
docs/assignments/week08.md
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# 8. Computational couture
TO DO:
* summarize results a bit more
* Add links Aldo & Anastasia shared for reference (nice approaches!)
* The deformations can also be done with stencils etc, not only 3D printing.
https://youreshape.io/fold-the-interfashionality/
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=paneling+tools+grasshopper
https://discourse.mcneel.com/t/new-quadremesh-command/85601
http://www.iaacblog.com/programs/fabricflation-_-structuring-textile-techniques/
http://www.co-de-it.com/wordpress/informed-flexible-matter.html
https://vimeo.com/299603461?fbclid=IwAR3DAIucdoxKruKTUdKozmeb14g2tdqWu2RUyt8FYzi2Z6O4GVDm0NtQGTM
This week I produced some printed results, but I mainly spent a lot of time documenting what I learned from the tutorials I did, to build up a vocabulary or archive of useful *clusters* that represent a functionality or method. A bit like a function in programming I guess? Once I have a good overview of these it will be a bit easier to start doing my own designs/scripts by using them as building blocks. Screenshots of these annotated blocks allow me to quickly look at how stuff is done without having to go all the way into Rhino & Grasshopper (it gets a bit slow :D)
This week I produced some printed results, but I mainly spent a lot of time documenting what I learned from the Grasshopper tutorials I did, to build up a vocabulary or archive of useful *clusters* that represent a functionality or method. A bit like a function in programming I guess? Once I have a good overview of these it will be a bit easier to start doing my own designs/scripts by using them as building blocks. Screenshots of these annotated blocks allow me to quickly look at how stuff is done without having to go all the way into Rhino & Grasshopper (it gets a bit slow :D)
**"Tangible" Results**
......@@ -113,9 +96,7 @@ Pretty nice beginner tutorial this one [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iX
[This tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_bZJjkkkG8&list=PLXJnjBsCdBxHFOV1te8BiZnfz9LF7mpHT&index=3&t=0s) was great for creating tile-like patterns like the one I made below. I was not successfull in creating a printable design yet! I have to study the parameters a little better to understand how I can avoid making crazy intersecting lines and end up with curves that an be offset and extruded. But good start and lots of playing around.
![](../images/wk08_prusasaysno.jpg)*Looking really cool! But Prusa slicer says no. Loes Bogers, 2019*
SCREENSHOTS HERE
![](../images/wk08_prusasaysno.jpg)*Some other examples I made. Looking really cool, but Prusa slicer says no. Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Truchet tiles**
......@@ -128,7 +109,7 @@ SCREENSHOTS HERE
![](../images/wk08_truchettiles2.jpg)*Producing a pattern that can be created for each cell, Loes Bogers, 2019*
#GIF HERE
![](../images/wk08_dispatch.gif)*Switching between modes, Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../images/wk08_truchettiles5.jpg)*Exploding cells and using the segments to define parameters for curves, Loes Bogers, 2019*
......@@ -209,6 +190,18 @@ There's many more techniques to do it depending on how you're constructing it I
##Inspiration
https://youreshape.io/fold-the-interfashionality/
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=paneling+tools+grasshopper
https://discourse.mcneel.com/t/new-quadremesh-command/85601
http://www.iaacblog.com/programs/fabricflation-_-structuring-textile-techniques/
http://www.co-de-it.com/wordpress/informed-flexible-matter.html
https://vimeo.com/299603461?fbclid=IwAR3DAIucdoxKruKTUdKozmeb14g2tdqWu2RUyt8FYzi2Z6O4GVDm0NtQGTM
**Auxetic structures and metastructures**
You can cleverly engineer materials so the change states in a way. Oh that is so cool! Bea found a file somewhere from somebody who made them. I'd like to explore this further. Especially for textiles it's interesting because they can really shift shape and SIZE!
......
docs/assignments/week09.md
View file @ 06d4996c
......@@ -2,17 +2,9 @@
![](../images/wk09_crystalmesh.jpg)*Never thought I'd be making crystal mesh, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**To Do**
##Results
* Document the concept, 3D model of the piece and document the design process
* Make two samples with 2 out of the 5 techniques to make a prototype of a textile form: fabric formwork with casting crystalization wood-textile resin-textile leather molding or other
* Document the process from CAD to CAMM, document how to use the CNC mill and prototype your textile composite
* Upload your 3D model and CAMM file
* Document the 2 processes you have followed step by step from design to machine and hands-on making, materials you used, your mistakes, failures and achievements
* Use 3D modeling software to simulate your fabric deformation
##Results: crystals, composites and (hopefully) leather forming
This week I grew several crystals with alum, including a conductive crystal. I made some composites by growing small crystals on textile swatches. And made a 3D model that I CNC machined and used to make a silk-bioplastic composite and to do leather forming.
![](../images/wk09_blackdiamonds.jpg)*Conductive Alum Crystals on a pipe cleaner, tulle and conductive thread, made with Bare Conductive Ink, Loes Bogers & Frank Vloet, 2019*
......@@ -339,13 +331,13 @@ Then I started doing the layup by pouring a few table spoons of bioresin over th
I finally vacuum sealed the whole thing in a vacuum bag and sucked the air out of it with a vacuum cleaner. Unfortunately the vacuum did not hold at all. I think it's because I mounted the mold onto a cardboard box to tension the cling film over it. I think it's impossible to vacuum the box. I tried about ten times but it kept going out of vacuum. Then I decided to take another route. So I took off the bag and the extra layers to let the resin airdry faster. In that case I might be able to use the mold again tomorrow. It was nice to see that the bleeder did its job and soaked up some of the excess bioresin.
![](../images/wk09_cast1_close.JPG)*My first try: surprisingly firm but very little definition and lots of creases, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk09_cast1_close.jpg)*My first try: surprisingly firm but very little definition and lots of creases, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**First result**
I'm not super pleased with this first result, it has very little definition. Probably a combination of not being able to vacuum it on a onesided mold and the bioresin curing so very fast. I dislike the color but that is easily changed. But on the other hand, it was relatively fast, it's very light but also strong
![](../images/wk09_sheets.JPG)*My sheet hanging out with the other bioplastics, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk09_sheets.jpg)*My sheet hanging out with the other bioplastics, Loes Bogers, 2019*
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ROfg14b26QA?controls=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
......@@ -355,7 +347,7 @@ I'm not super pleased with this first result, it has very little definition. Pro
I studied some samples at the lab and talked to Cecilia about the leather molding yesterday. Apparently some good results here came from massaging the leather into the mold by hand. For hours. Since I don't have a double sided mold yet I thought I'd just try it out while listening to the global review and lecture. Why not. cut my 1 mm thick black leather into a rectangle and soaked it in cold water overnight.
![](../images/wk09_leatherexamples.JPG)*Examples at the Textile Lab in Amsterdam, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk09_leatherexamples.jpg)*Examples at the Textile Lab in Amsterdam, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Massaging the leather**
......
docs/assignments/week10.md
View file @ 06d4996c
# 10. E-Textiles and Wearables II
![](../images/wk10_blackdiamondswatch1.jpg)*A capacative sensing swatch with a black conductive alum crystal I grew in week 9, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk10_heatpad1.jpg)*Lookit! My heating pad powered with a 9V battery, transistor controlled by an ATtiny (details below), Loes Bogers, 2019*
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IrJuISsyTz4?rel=0&amp;controls=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
......@@ -12,12 +10,6 @@
* I made four coils that an be used as speaker coils or as heating pad, and controlled them with an Attiny85, both in a speaker circuit and as a heating pad
* I made some swatches that I dyed with thermochromic pigments
* I worked out the Soft Serial communication to read an analog sensor with an FTDI cable (I'd done this before)
* I finished a project I started in week 5 and made it work: a choker with a digital switch made of a bikini clip, an LED and a buzzer, controlled by an ATtiny. The documentation to that is under [week 5](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/assignments/week05/).
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4F35IlK6YNA?rel=0&amp;controls=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
*A choker with an alarm that sounds when you take it off (see week 5 for process), Loes Bogers, 2019*
For the week I decided to make a number of coils that I could use both as a speaker and as a heating pad. Even the code turned out to be exactly the same which was really interesting to realise :) Simple principles with 1001 applications, that's beauty right there. I loved going into the bare bones of the physics of electronics this week, I think this is how electronics should be taught to anyone, so we can understand how material properties and laws of physics interact and how you can bend them a little to achieve interesting results and expressions.
......@@ -284,209 +276,6 @@ void loop() {
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/o_JofkgazBo?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
##FTDI cable and soft serial for Attiny
Attiny cannot just write to the serial the way an Arduino UNO can, it doesn't have UART. But you can designate any 2 pins as RX (receive) and TX (transmit), and connect an FTDI cable to it. I have a [TTL-232R-5V cable from Farnell](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiCmuXgqpnmAhVP4ncKHTL1B7YYABAAGgJlZg&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQOD2tiG4wFpIijcjbezQf1TpzpW1UCDQloiGTyGls9IPkhgoEnmkyQ_3yWNKi0BYGwm9PdE3MAOL8ymX8S-DY-g&sig=AOD64_3_4kluOTjbSLdEXpBf9BiWpR2YdA&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjTlN7gqpnmAhXDL1AKHciGBtoQ0Qx6BAgZEAE&adurl=&bg=!IiGlITlYQkx731BU_RYCAAAATlIAAAAHCgBLX5I5nWbc1Yk7OzAUaVk9k_alV6ix5mAy9MtC7Ehnd6I79c8HYezbERdSkLG-8JsFcShX-34-URsr1GAowkWwlcDgpFFRVv0HcqyjmQDeYa6y6FITxcZqpVNaRGU-uuHgk8nAmap84jBasw1ghuJaMcdNH4TS4KtIrhP7i1kuTfGqf54QrvnAye8zZFdaIR0cEesxMixzabPfsNB9jsZD5D7i8r1cCjEXvv1IOtp4VXpLgD2fIlQfUHtP2_7vAfejJvv_MfgpwEGdIJyAhEeT6Cm9CP2sl6XOouIfUOjDkYyuBk9nKiIr5hjRuAVqpA0ABmEKS3Y56tB-uJ3a1ih4D_0UcJ-hiyynolf5JcPi1Q1U83_9I7XcMcHXX_kyLIfD6oh6Ef57Ha4aZmGw) (also comes in a 3.3V version which is nice for wearables). You have to install a bunch of drivers to use them, which can be a bit of a pain but I already have them installed. You can find the [drivers here] (https://www.ftdichip.com/Products/Cables/USBTTLSerial.htm). If you're not sure you can check whether the drivers are installed by plugging in the FTDI cable and checking under \> Ports in Arduino IDE to see if another serial port shows up. Which it did!
![](../images/wk10_driveinstall_check.jpg)*Seeing if the cable shows up, if it does you already have the necessary drivers, Loes Bogers, 2019*
Then you can use the Software Serial library in the Arduino sketch by adding ``` #include <SoftwareSerial.h> ``` at the top of the sketch. You can write to the serial using similar commands, just not capitalized like you normally would.
```serial.begin(baudrate);```
```serial.println(values);```
**Connecting the FTDI cable to a circuit**
I just used the FTDI cable for calibrating in the prototype stage, so it sufficed to connect it with some jumpers and a bread board. Note: TX is always connected to the RX of another device, and RX to TX.
* VCC to VCC
* GND to GND
* TX to the pin designated as RX in the ATtiny code!
* RX to the pin designated as TX in the ATtiny code!
![](../images/wk10_ftdicable_schematic.jpg)*How I wired up the FTDI cable to a circuit with a capacative touch sensor and an attiny, Loes Bogers, 2019*
I set up the serial connection for an analog input swatch I still had to make for week 5.
```
//https://www.instructables.com/id/Capacitive-Sensing-for-Dummies/
//https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Smoothing
#include <CapacitiveSensor.h>
#include <SoftwareSerial.h> when using ATtiny and FTDI cable
#define rxPin 1 // if using FTDI cable and attiny > connect to TX of other device
#define txPin 0 // if using FTDI cable and attiny > connect to RX of other device
SoftwareSerial serial(rxPin, txPin); //if using FTDI cable and attiny
//send at pin 4, receive at pin 3, 1-10M ohm resistor between
CapacitiveSensor cs_3_4 = CapacitiveSensor(3, 4); // 1-10 megohm resistor between pins 4 & 3, pin 3 is sensor pin, add wire, foil
const int numReadings = 10; // size of array/number of readings to keep track of (higher = slower)
int readings[numReadings]; // the readings from the analog input
int readIndex = 0; // the index of the current reading
int total = 0; // the running total
int average = 0; // the average
void setup() {
// initialize serial communication with computer:
// Serial.begin(9600); //start serial communication via USB cable
serial.begin(115200); //if using FTDI cable and attiny
cs_3_4.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF); // turn off autocalibrate on channel 1 - just as an example Serial.begin(9600);
//initatialize readings array setting all values to 0
for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++) {
readings[thisReading] = 0;
}
}
void loop() {
// subtract the last reading:
total = total - readings[readIndex];
// read from the sensor:
readings[readIndex] = cs_3_4.capacitiveSensor(30);
// add the reading to the total:
total = total + readings[readIndex];
// advance to the next position in the array:
readIndex = readIndex + 1;
// if we're at the end of the array...wrap around to the beginning
if (readIndex >= numReadings) {
readIndex = 0;
}
// calculate the average:
average = total / numReadings;
// send it to the computer as ASCII digits
// Serial.println(average); // if using Arduino serial
serial.println(average); // if using FTDI cable and attiny
delay(10); // arbitrary delay to limit data to serial port
}
```
*Code using Software Serial, an ATtiny and capacitive sensing*
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-kNWvzDM0sc?rel=0&amp;controls=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
*The readings coming in, plotted to the serial plotter, Loes Bogers, 2019*
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dIWBhHkzgtQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
*The capsensing rock fading an LED, Loes Bogers, 2019*
```
//https://www.instructables.com/id/Capacitive-Sensing-for-Dummies/
//https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Smoothing
#include <CapacitiveSensor.h>
#include <SoftwareSerial.h> when using ATtiny and FTDI cable
#define rxPin 1 // if using FTDI cable and attiny > connect to TX of other device
#define txPin 2 // if using FTDI cable and attiny > connect to RX of other device
SoftwareSerial serial(rxPin, txPin); //if using FTDI cable and attiny
//send at pin 4, receive at pin 3, 1-10M ohm resistor between
CapacitiveSensor cs_3_4 = CapacitiveSensor(3, 4); // 1-10 megohm resistor between pins 4 & 3, pin 3 is sensor pin, add wire, foil
const int numReadings = 10; // size of array/number of readings to keep track of (higher = slower)
int readings[numReadings]; // the readings from the analog input
int readIndex = 0; // the index of the current reading
int total = 0; // the running total
int average = 0; // the average
int brightness = 0; // initialize delay time at 0
void setup() {
// initialize serial communication with computer:
// Serial.begin(9600); //start serial communication via USB cable
serial.begin(115200); //if using FTDI cable and attiny
pinMode(0, OUTPUT); //add LED and 330ohm resistor on pin 1 (PWM pin)
cs_3_4.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF); // turn off autocalibrate on channel 1 - just as an example Serial.begin(9600);
//initatialize readings array setting all values to 0
for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++) {
readings[thisReading] = 0;
}
}
void loop() {
// subtract the last reading:
total = total - readings[readIndex];
// read from the sensor:
readings[readIndex] = cs_3_4.capacitiveSensor(30);
// add the reading to the total:
total = total + readings[readIndex];
// advance to the next position in the array:
readIndex = readIndex + 1;
// if we're at the end of the array...wrap around to the beginning
if (readIndex >= numReadings) {
readIndex = 0;
}
// calculate the average:
average = total / numReadings;
// send it to the computer as ASCII digits
// Serial.println(average); // if using Arduino serial
serial.println(average); // if using FTDI cable and attiny
brightness = constrain(average, 0, 700);
brightness = map(brightness,0, 700, 0, 255); //map value range to PWM range
analogWrite(0, brightness);
delay(10); // arbitrary delay to limit data to serial port
}
```
*Code to fade a LED with the crystal capacitor, ATtiny85 and Software Serial, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Preparing an integrated swatch**
I had to change the schematic and code a little bit when I added the LED to the circuit, because I had no PWM pins left to put it on so had to move stuff around. I moved the TX pin from pin 0 to pin 2 so I could free up pin 0 for the LED to fade. Pin 3 and 4 stay there because I need ADC for analogReads of the capacitive sensor.
To be clear, the schematic above was changed a little. With the code above (that has the LED in it as well), THIS is the circuit for it:
![..](../images/wk10_schematic_swatch.jpg)*The updated schematic that works with the code posted above (RX pin moved from pin 0 to pin 2, LED pin on pin 0), Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Hard-soft connections for IC and power pads**
Then I went on to prepare the hard-soft connections a little bit. I had issues with the power supply and IC before, they seem to be the hardest to get right. I wanted to add bigger connector pads for my alligator clips to power the swatch and hand cut them from some conductive textile with heat 'n bond, there were plenty of leftovers to do this with.
![](../images/wk10_solderingleads.jpg)*Preparing the power connectors by adding a bit of solder to the textile and thread first, Loes Bogers, 2019*
For the IC, I thought I could maybe work with the crimp beads I found. They're basically small metal cylinders that you can squeeze shut with plyers. I prepared the IC socket by pusing it through the neoprene and putting some solder on the legs, then I put some solder on the crimp beads, and finally I soldered the crimp beads to the legs. What a figdety job, but it worked. The beads are a bit wider than the distance between the legs but since the Attiny85 has only 8 legs, you can bend the legs outward to make sure they don't touch.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9H7R-O76xE0?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
*Designing the swatch*
I drew a basic layout of the design, of where the components would be, and how the traces might run, but basically freehanded the rest. I used a beautiful black and gold conductive wire. It's gorgeous, but also breaks easily. The metal strands snap easily when you pull at it. So this only really works nicely with the right size needle and a fabric that is a bit more loosely woven of perforated, it's just too easy to snap the conductive strands of the wire leaving your traces broken. Gorgeous though. I did switch o stainless steel for the black diamond part of the circuit, partially because I was fed up and partially because I wanted to know if it was easier to connect to the IC/crimpbead-connectors. Definitely easier.
![](../images/wk10_swatchcollage.jpg)*From schematic to swatch, Loes Bogers, 2019*
Then I thoroughly checked all connections, which seemed in order. In the video below you will see slightly different behavior compared to the test with the breadboard. That's because originally the diamond was two rocks attached to each other but one broke off in the process of stitching the swatch. That 50% of the surface gone, so the circuit is a little less sensitive and needs to be recalibrated to be optimized again. But everything seems right and it works!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7gEK2OXGa2U?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
*Swatch with a conductive alum crystal as capacitive touch sensor, fading an LED, Loes Bogers, 2019*
## References for further reading
......@@ -759,10 +548,4 @@ Look at the datasheet, assuming a 9V battery. To know resistance and amps etc.
* The Culture series by Afroditi Psarra and Dafni Papadopoulou
**Flip dots**
**Vibration motors**
docs/assignments/week12.md
View file @ 06d4996c
# 12. Soft robotics
<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/LMcdsCr6BBLiezff0w" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="https://giphy.com/gifs/LMcdsCr6BBLiezff0w"></a></p>
<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/LMcdsCr6BBLiezff0w" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/ieVDCHlHimBLucYiU3" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="https://giphy.com/gifs/ieVDCHlHimBLucYiU3">via GIPHY</a></p>
<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/ieVDCHlHimBLucYiU3" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/L4UZpJj941K6EJSsuB" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="https://giphy.com/gifs/L4UZpJj941K6EJSsuB">via GIPHY</a></p>
<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/L4UZpJj941K6EJSsuB" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
*TPU inflatables and the pouring of the silicon, Loes Bogers, 2019*
......@@ -14,9 +14,15 @@
* Experimented a little with laserwelding instead of baking paper, using TPU
* I made a silicon 2.5D inflatable with a lasercut mold.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-AWLA4hmmAc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
*Testing the rubber inflatable (I got very excited feeling all its alive weirdness..., Loes Bogers, 2019*
##2D molds: thermovinyl inflatables
Our first explorations involved very simple ingredients: thermovinyl, parchment/baking paper and heat. By cutting out airchannels by hand from baking paper, and creating little pockets by welding together two parts of vinyl with heat (using a heat press or iron), we were able to explore some movements and dynamics. Two layers of vinyl are welded together unless there's baking paper between the layers. Where there's baking paper, air can circulate (the baking paper are the air channels). It's not very straightforward to guesstimate what these shapes will do though! So it was good to explore a little first.
Our first explorations involved very simple ingredients: thermovinyl, parchment/baking paper and heat. By cutting out airchannels by hand from baking paper, and creating little pockets by welding together two parts of vinyl with heat (using a heat press or iron), we were able to explore some movements and dynamics. Two layers of vinyl are welded together unless there's baking paper between the layers. Where there's baking paper, air can circulate (the baking paper are the air channels). It's not very straightforward to guesstimate what these shapes will do though! So it was good to explore a little first. These are the basics as described by Adriana in the lecture:
![](../images/wk12_howto.jpg)*How to do a simple inflatable, Adriana Cabrera for Fabricademy, 2019*
![](../images/wk12_study.jpg)*Studying simple variations on a shape, Loes Bogers, 2019*
......@@ -30,12 +36,34 @@ Our first explorations involved very simple ingredients: thermovinyl, parchment/
* Welding lines should be about 5x5 mm at least so make sure to give a 5mm outside margin, and don't make the welding shapes too small.
* the shiny sides of the vinyl should be on the outsides, the matte side facing in.
* The baking paper is sandwiched between.
* Laser cut the baking paper, or TPU if you want
* **Do not lasercut the thermovinyl! (releases chlorine)**
* Put this sandwich between two sheets of baking paper and heatpress until the the two sides are welded together. This goes pretty fast, take care not to burn it
* 140 degrees Celcius is a good start.
* Peel off one or both sides of the rigid plastic (it will have different results!)
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-mQh07jm_YA?rel=0&amp;controls=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
*Some handcut examples, first actuated with the rigid backing still on, then actuated again without substrate, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**How to think about design**
* Think of simple symmetric paper cutting techniques (manual)
* Look at origami [atterms, replicate folds by welding and creating airpockets (thank you [@Tasneem Hussain in Qatar](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/tasneem.hussain/assignments/week12/), who also developed Arduino circuits and code to control the actuating, awesoooome)
* Make simple shapes and iterate with small variations
* Did I say keep it simple?
* KEEP IT SIMPLE! Like [Valentine Fruchart in Fab Lab ULB, Brussels](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/valentine.fruchart/assignments/week12/#bubbles) here, great idea with this pink bubble inflatable.
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/379956741" width="640" height="753" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen" allowfullscreen></iframe>
*Simple and beautiful working silicon inflatable that Valentine Fruchart in Brussels made this week, so nice!*
* Be precise with cutting or use laser cutter
* Check out [Adriana's nice design pointers in the lecture notes!](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week11/) They went up a little late this week but would have been really useful to review them again instead of inventing the wheel haha. Next time :)
* Be brave and do it with biosilicon instead of silicon silicon, like [Gabriela Lotaif's tests](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/gabriela.lotaif/) with alginate in Barcelona. Greaaat!
![](../images/wk12_designpatterns.jpg)*Some design patterns described by Adriana in the lecture, Adriana Cabrera for Fabricademy, 2019*
**About substrates**
I noticed already at this stage that the inflatables behaved very differently when you leave one side of the hard plastic backing on. It helps to control the motion into an upward movement, rather than a cringing, shrinking effect. In this video you can see all samples first with the backing still stuck to the back, and then again without any rigid plastic, just the soft vinyl.
......@@ -68,7 +96,7 @@ The air holes on the sides of the weld line were too small, the airflow was too
I also wanted to try cutting the baking paper with laser even though I didn't have the most exciting design. I was wondering if precision in the cutting influenced the movement a lot and I'm pretty sure it does. Small variations in width and placement can really make a difference in the way the inflatable behaves.
![](../images/wk12_bakingpaperlaser.jpg)
![](../images/wk12_bakingpaperlaser.jpg)*Cutting baking paper with the laser cutter. DO NOT CUT THE THERMOVINYL THOUGH!, Loes Bogers, 2019*
Sadly this design wasn't exactly optimal and I wanted to move on to the silicon inflatable so didn't optimize it. The airchannels on the side of the weld lines were a bit too narrow and restricted the airflow too much. But here's an idea:
......@@ -93,6 +121,8 @@ After recalibrating I got some nicer results and ended on these parameters. In t
* power: 18
* corner power: 10
Bea continued a little bit more with the laserwelding and finetuned settings even more. Here documentation [here!](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/beatriz.sandini/assignments/week12/)
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7CyaCYQXOiQ?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
## Lineheating device and thick vacuum bags
......@@ -115,7 +145,9 @@ Glueing large surfaces with glue that dries in seconds is a challenge though!
**Elastomer**
SmoothOn EcoFlex is used as elastomer. Parts mixed in the ratio 1/1, pot life 45 mins, curing time 4 hours.
[SmoothOn EcoFlex 00-30](https://www.smooth-on.com/products/ecoflex-00-30/) is used as elastomer. It is translucent and has a shore hardness of only 00-30 which means it's very flexible. Which of course, is what we want for an inflatable. Parts mixed in the ratio 1/1, pot life 45 mins, curing time 30 mins to 4 hours. Wear vinyl gloves (not latex), work in a ventilated room.
It's worth asking about a curing accelerator they should have available at FormX here in Amsterdam, to save some time in curing. Alternatively, you can speed up the curing process also by putting it in an oven set to a low heat (to 50 degrees celcius or so).
**Substrate**
......@@ -147,6 +179,10 @@ I used Rhino to design the mold for the inflatable. It consists of designing a t
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pbkiEAYWoJI?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
![](../images/wk12_cutfiles.jpg)*Elements to cut, Loes Bogers, 2019*
[Download the cutfile for the mold (.dxf)](../files/wk12_cutfile_mold.dxf)
**Parts list**
The mold consists of two parts that are glued together with a little bit of silicon after:
......@@ -163,28 +199,78 @@ And the second part of the mold with a piece of textile on top of it is made by
##Casting the inflatable
* Calculate or measure how much silicon you need. I calculated cm3 with the rough dimensions of the shape, but also checked by pouring water in with the mold sitting on a scale. I ended up with the same numbers: 190 ml for each part of the mold, so 380 ml in total
* Mix part A and part B *slowly*, add colorant if necessary (I tried getting a marble effect by not mixing in all the pearly white acrylic too well, but ended up with blobs...)
* Prepare mold with release spray: spray thoroughly, brush into corners, and spray again.
* Calculate or measure how much silicon you need. I calculated cm3 with the rough dimensions of the shape, but also checked by pouring water in with the mold sitting on a scale. I ended up with the same numbers: 190 gr for each part of the mold, so 380 gr in total
* Mix part A and part B *slowly*, add colorant if necessary (I tried getting a marble effect by not mixing in all the pearly white acrylic too well, but ended up with blobs...) If you mix fast you will get bubbles = holes in your cast. Nice if you're making silicon cheese.
* Prepare mold with release spray: spray thoroughly, brush into corners, and spray again. Let it dry for 30 mins (I didn't do this...)
* Cover table top with plastic for potential spillage. Pour in a place where you can also let the silicon set without having to move it.
* Pour silicon in slowly, from one side of the mould ideally. Enjoyyyyyyy!
* Use a level (*waterpas* in Dutch) to make sure your mold it absolutely level. If it's not, you can get differences in thickness, which will result in big bubbles in thinner areas, and no airflow in the thicker areas.
* Pour silicon in slowly, from one side of the mould ideally (no moving). Enjoyyyyyyy!
![](../images/wk12cast_collage.jpg)*1. preparing the mold, 2. Weighing the amount of water that goes into mold (weight in grams = ml = cm3) 3. preparing the silicon, 4. casting and adding textile, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk12cast_collage.jpg)*1. preparing the mold, 2. Weighing the amount of water that goes into mold (weight in grams = cm3) 3. preparing the silicon, 4. casting and adding textile, Loes Bogers, 2019*
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mpIX_c6bLeI?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
**Inflating the inflatable ;)**
**Curing and releasing**
The silicon did not cure overnight. Could be because of the acrylic paint I added. I tried curing it a bit more in the oven but that also didn't work..... pweeeeep. Have to cast again.
Curing in the oven helped the silicon cure a little bit better, but it was still totally snotty and wet on one side, with some integrity on the other, so I could pick it up and it's very stretchy but also snotty and disgusting.
![](../images/wk12_uncured.jpg)*Silicon was mostly left uncured, so sad. Loes Bogers, 2019*
So I studied my failure a bit more and also looked at the other girl's samples. First I realized I'd used the wrong release spray (for hard plastic molds, instead of the one for silicon molds). But the others had also used it without problems.
Bea had mixed some pigments into her silicon too, and we could tell that the dots of pigment were also still soft and liquid. In this petri dish there's some acrylic paint mixed lightly with silicon. You can really see how the parts without color are solid and cured but the brown parts are still liquid.
<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/elUgPuGhYP0gHB1Am4" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
*Acrylic paint is not a very good colorant to use with Ecoflex, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Cleaning uncured silicon with alcohol**
I want to cast again but will have to clean this mold first. Oh my gosh. There was no way I could get it off with soap. The [Smooth-On FAQ](https://www.smooth-on.com/support/faq/118/) told me acetone and alcohol were good bets though. So I went and did that. I was able to clean the simple side of the mold (with the textile). The one with the airchannels would be too hard to clean. So I cut out another treeshape for airchannels and glued it inside the simple mould. To cast a sheet with textile you don't actually need a mold necessarily.
I was lucky to learn some tricks from the global review before doing this, so I also checked that the place I was curing in was totally level, to make sure it will be even.
![](../images/wk12_cleanmold.jpg)*I managed to clean half the mold with alcohol, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk12_level.jpg)*Making sure the surface I'm using for curing is totally level, Loes Bogers, 2019*
Smooth-on has dedicated pigments called [So-Strong](https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/strong/) :) This time around I used a bit of black pigment (that turned a lovely purple/blue), and my silicon cured beautifully in a few hours. Wonderful release, aaaaah. Oh yes I also used thin organza instead of the super thick material I originally used as a substrate.
<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/hQjQ2gX4uEr13JUet0" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
*Don't do as I do! Stir slowly the whole time :) Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Releasing the second casting**
<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/LlEQhoIYIioUCfzq5D" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
**Glueing the two sides together**
Releasing the silicon is so nice! It's very strong so I wasn't too worried about tearing with this thickness. God I will never get tired of this. It seems pretty uniform in thickness but we'll see. The order of the layers (from top to bottom):
1. Layer with organza pointing upwards
1. Glueing layer (manually applied after curing the other two)
1. Bottom layer with the airchannels, with open channels facing up
We had some different ideas about how to glue the two sides together: Bela put a very thin layer and it was ok, but Bea did the same and had a lot of holes and explosions. So I thought I'd do it nice and thick. Ofcourse it was way too much and I drowned the airchannels. Ughhh. Wiped it all out again and found a middle ground, I hope. The tube I wanted to cast inside kept coming out so I just left it out. I'll poke a hole later. I pressed it down with a sheet of acrylic and some bottles on top. Now we wait!
![](../images/wk12_secondcast.jpg)*Winners in the second round! Two parts of the inflatable before glueing them together (this time with organza instead of thicker stiff fabric), Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Inflating the inflatable**
###Materials & Tools
* Ecoflex Silicon from SmoothOn (FormX Amsterdam)
* Ecoflex Silicon 00-30 shore from SmoothOn (FormX Amsterdam)
* Biosilicon (optional)
* Flex folie (heat transfer t-shirt thermo vinyl)
* TPU: the stuff that is used for fake leather (Boeken, Amsterdam)
* Parchment/baking paper - to create tunnels for airflow
* Heat - iron, heat press, line heat press
* Flex folie (heat transfer t-shirt thermo vinyl)
* Vacuum bags and vacuum bag sealer strip
* Or try using plastic bags, old inflatables like balloons etc
##Other references and inspiration
......@@ -203,3 +289,16 @@ And the second part of the mold with a piece of textile on top of it is made by
![](https://static.projects.iq.harvard.edu/files/styles/os_files_xlarge/public/sorotoolkit/files/annotated_diagram2.png?m=1404840558&itok=xeuBOjSq)*Open Source Soft Robotics Toolkit Control Board by Wheng Wang et.al. via [Soft Robotics Toolkit](https://softroboticstoolkit.com/book/control-board)*
##Molding & casting basics
Smooth-On has some great tutorials worth watching. It makes way more sense than looking at drawings or reading text (for me :D)
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QKrCPvBMbac" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OzomvhHd9vo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8HyVCVfZ_g8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FQ1A7ZjTsx8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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