update wk 12 and 13

docs/assignments/week12.md

 # 12. Soft robotics
 
-<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/LMcdsCr6BBLiezff0w" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="https://giphy.com/gifs/LMcdsCr6BBLiezff0w"></a></p>
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/LMcdsCr6BBLiezff0w" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
 
-<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/ieVDCHlHimBLucYiU3" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="https://giphy.com/gifs/ieVDCHlHimBLucYiU3">via GIPHY</a></p>
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/ieVDCHlHimBLucYiU3" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
 
-<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/L4UZpJj941K6EJSsuB" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="https://giphy.com/gifs/L4UZpJj941K6EJSsuB">via GIPHY</a></p>
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/L4UZpJj941K6EJSsuB" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
 
 *TPU inflatables and the pouring of the silicon, Loes Bogers, 2019*
 
@@ -30,6 +30,8 @@ Our first explorations involved very simple ingredients: thermovinyl, parchment/
 * Welding lines should be about 5x5 mm at least so make sure to give a 5mm outside margin, and don't make the welding shapes too small.
 * the shiny sides of the vinyl should be on the outsides, the matte side facing in. 
 * The baking paper is sandwiched between.
+* Laser cut the baking paper, or TPU if you want
+* **Do not lasercut the thermovinyl! (releases chlorine)**
 * Put this sandwich between two sheets of baking paper and heatpress until the the two sides are welded together. This goes pretty fast, take care not to burn it
 * 140 degrees Celcius is a good start.
 * Peel off one or both sides of the rigid plastic (it will have different results!) 
@@ -52,7 +54,7 @@ Our first explorations involved very simple ingredients: thermovinyl, parchment/
 
 * Be precise with cutting or use laser cutter
 * Check out [Adriana's nice design pointers in the lecture notes!](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week11/) They went up a little late this week but would have been really useful to review them again instead of inventing the wheel haha. Next time :) 
-* Be brave and do it with biosilicon instead of silicon silicon, like [Gabriela Lotaif's tests](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/gabriela.lotaif/) with alginat in Barcelona. Greaaat!
+* Be brave and do it with biosilicon instead of silicon silicon, like [Gabriela Lotaif's tests](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/gabriela.lotaif/) with alginate in Barcelona. Greaaat!
 
 **About substrates**
 
@@ -86,7 +88,7 @@ The air holes on the sides of the weld line were too small, the airflow was too
 
 I also wanted to try cutting the baking paper with laser even though I didn't have the most exciting design. I was wondering if precision in the cutting influenced the movement a lot and I'm pretty sure it does. Small variations in width and placement can really make a difference in the way the inflatable behaves. 
 
-![](../images/wk12_bakingpaperlaser.jpg)
+![](../images/wk12_bakingpaperlaser.jpg)*Cutting baking paper with the laser cutter. DO NOT CUT THE THERMOVINYL THOUGH!, Loes Bogers, 2019*
 
 Sadly this design wasn't exactly optimal and I wanted to move on to the silicon inflatable so didn't optimize it. The airchannels on the side of the weld lines were a bit too narrow and restricted the airflow too much. But here's an idea: 
 
@@ -135,7 +137,7 @@ Glueing large surfaces with glue that dries in seconds is a challenge though!
 
 **Elastomer**
 
-SmoothOn EcoFlex is used as elastomer. Parts mixed in the ratio 1/1, pot life 45 mins, curing time 4 hours.
+[SmoothOn EcoFlex 00-30](https://www.smooth-on.com/products/ecoflex-00-30/) is used as elastomer. It is translucent and has a shore hardness of only 00-30 which means it's very flexible. Which of course, is what we want for an inflatable. Parts mixed in the ratio 1/1, pot life 45 mins, curing time 30 mins to 4 hours. Wear vinyl gloves (not latex), work in a ventilated room. 
 
 It's worth asking about a curing accelerator they should have available at FormX here in Amsterdam, to save some time in curing. Alternatively, you can speed up the curing process also by putting it in an oven set to a low heat (to 50 degrees celcius or so).
 
@@ -186,11 +188,11 @@ And the second part of the mold with a piece of textile on top of it is made by
 ##Casting the inflatable
 
 * Calculate or measure how much silicon you need. I calculated cm3 with the rough dimensions of the shape, but also checked by pouring water in with the mold sitting on a scale. I ended up with the same numbers: 190 gr for each part of the mold, so 380 gr in total
-* Mix part A and part B *slowly*, add colorant if necessary (I tried getting a marble effect by not mixing in all the pearly white acrylic too well, but ended up with blobs...)
-* Prepare mold with release spray: spray thoroughly, brush into corners, and spray again. 
+* Mix part A and part B *slowly*, add colorant if necessary (I tried getting a marble effect by not mixing in all the pearly white acrylic too well, but ended up with blobs...) If you mix fast you will get bubbles = holes in your cast. Nice if you're making silicon cheese.
+* Prepare mold with release spray: spray thoroughly, brush into corners, and spray again. Let it dry for 30 mins (I didn't do this...)
 * Cover table top with plastic for potential spillage. Pour in a place where you can also let the silicon set without having to move it.
 * Use a level (*waterpas* in Dutch) to make sure your mold it absolutely level. If it's not, you can get differences in thickness, which will result in big bubbles in thinner areas, and no airflow in the thicker areas. 
-* Pour silicon in slowly, from one side of the mould ideally. Enjoyyyyyyy!
+* Pour silicon in slowly, from one side of the mould ideally (no moving). Enjoyyyyyyy!
 
 ![](../images/wk12cast_collage.jpg)*1. preparing the mold, 2. Weighing the amount of water that goes into mold (weight in grams = cm3) 3. preparing the silicon, 4. casting and adding textile, Loes Bogers, 2019*
 
@@ -202,35 +204,61 @@ The silicon did not cure overnight. Could be because of the acrylic paint I adde
 
 Curing in the oven helped the silicon cure a little bit better, but it was still totally snotty and wet on one side, with some integrity on the other, so I could pick it up and it's very stretchy but also snotty and disgusting.
 
+![](../images/wk12_uncured.jpg)*Silicon was mostly left uncured, so sad. Loes Bogers, 2019*
+
 So I studied my failure a bit more and also looked at the other girl's samples. First I realized I'd used the wrong release spray (for hard plastic molds, instead of the one for silicon molds). But the others had also used it without problems. 
 
 Bea had mixed some pigments into her silicon too, and we could tell that the dots of pigment were also still soft and liquid. In this petri dish there's some acrylic paint mixed lightly with silicon. You can really see how the parts without color are solid and cured but the brown parts are still liquid. 
 
-I also checked that the place I was curing in was totally level, to make sure it will be even. 
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/elUgPuGhYP0gHB1Am4" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
+
+*Acrylic paint is not a very good colorant to use with Ecoflex, Loes Bogers, 2019*
 
 **Cleaning uncured silicon with alcohol**
 
 I want to cast again but will have to clean this mold first. Oh my gosh. There was no way I could get it off with soap. The [Smooth-On FAQ](https://www.smooth-on.com/support/faq/118/) told me acetone and alcohol were good bets though. So I went and did that. I was able to clean the simple side of the mold (with the textile). The one with the airchannels would be too hard to clean. So I cut out another treeshape for airchannels and glued it inside the simple mould. To cast a sheet with textile you don't actually need a mold necessarily. 
 
-**Use proper pigments for silicon!**
+I was lucky to learn some tricks from the global review before doing this, so I also checked that the place I was curing in was totally level, to make sure it will be even. 
+
+![](../images/wk12_cleanmold.jpg)*I managed to clean half the mold with alcohol, Loes Bogers, 2019*
+
+![](../images/wk12_level.jpg)*Making sure the surface I'm using for curing is totally level, Loes Bogers, 2019*
+
+Smooth-on has dedicated pigments called [So-Strong](https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/strong/) :) This time around I used a bit of black pigment (that turned a lovely purple/blue), and my silicon cured beautifully in a few hours. Wonderful release, aaaaah. Oh yes I also used thin organza instead of the super thick material I originally used as a substrate.
+
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/hQjQ2gX4uEr13JUet0" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
 
-Smooth-on has dedicated pigments called [So-Strong](https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/strong/) :) This time around I used a bit of black pigment (that turned a lovely purple), and my silicon cured beautifully in a few hours. Wonderful release, aaaaah. Oh yes I also used thin organza instead of the super thick material I originally used as a substrate.
+*Don't do as I do! Stir slowly the whole time :) Loes Bogers, 2019*
+
+**Releasing the second casting**
+
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/LlEQhoIYIioUCfzq5D" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
 
 **Glueing the two sides together**
 
+Releasing the silicon is so nice! It's very strong so I wasn't too worried about tearing with this thickness. God I will never get tired of this. It seems pretty uniform in thickness but we'll see. The order of the layers (from top to bottom): 
+
+1. Layer with organza pointing upwards
+1. Glueing layer (manually applied after curing the other two)
+1. Bottom layer with the airchannels, with open channels facing up
+
 We had some different ideas about how to glue the two sides together: Bela put a very thin layer and it was ok, but Bea did the same and had a lot of holes and explosions. So I thought I'd do it nice and thick. Ofcourse it was way too much and I drowned the airchannels. Ughhh. Wiped it all out again and found a middle ground, I hope. The tube I wanted to cast inside kept coming out so I just left it out. I'll poke a hole later. I pressed it down with a sheet of acrylic and some bottles on top. Now we wait!
 
-**Inflating the inflatable**
+![](../images/wk12_secondcast.jpg)*Winners in the second round! Two parts of the inflatable before glueing them together (this time with organza instead of thicker stiff fabric), Loes Bogers, 2019*
 
+**Inflating the inflatable**
 
 
 ###Materials & Tools
 
-* Ecoflex Silicon from SmoothOn (FormX Amsterdam)
+* Ecoflex Silicon 00-30 shore from SmoothOn (FormX Amsterdam)
+* Biosilicon (optional)
+* Flex folie (heat transfer t-shirt thermo vinyl)
 * TPU: the stuff that is used for fake leather (Boeken, Amsterdam)
 * Parchment/baking paper - to create tunnels for airflow
 * Heat - iron, heat press, line heat press 
-* Flex folie (heat transfer t-shirt thermo vinyl)
+* Vacuum bags and vacuum bag sealer strip
+* Or try using plastic bags, old inflatables like balloons etc
 
 
 ##Other references and inspiration
@@ -249,3 +277,16 @@ We had some different ideas about how to glue the two sides together: Bela put a
 
 ![](https://static.projects.iq.harvard.edu/files/styles/os_files_xlarge/public/sorotoolkit/files/annotated_diagram2.png?m=1404840558&itok=xeuBOjSq)*Open Source Soft Robotics Toolkit Control Board by Wheng Wang et.al. via [Soft Robotics Toolkit](https://softroboticstoolkit.com/book/control-board)*
 
+##Molding & casting basics
+
+Smooth-On has some great tutorials worth watching. It makes way more sense than looking at drawings or reading text (for me :D) 
+
+<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QKrCPvBMbac" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
+
+<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OzomvhHd9vo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
+
+<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8HyVCVfZ_g8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
+
+<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FQ1A7ZjTsx8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
+
+

docs/assignments/week13.md

 # 13. Skin Electronics
 
-* face lace
-* eyelashes
-* hair beads
-* macramé/vlechtjes
-* bare conductive 
-* crystals & skin glue
-* LEDs and boards
-* 3D molds Renee
-* 3D printed fake nails with UV changing filament
-* RFID nails (coil)
-* Grow some more black diamonds (on hair? nails? fake lashes)
-* Skin inflatables
+##Results
 
+##Material explorations
 
+I started this week by doing some material exploration based on inspiring projects before settling on an idea. So I tried out a few things that are within reach (within reason). I will see what works out well and then continue one or more of the ideas.
 
-0------------0------90---------00000--0-0------
+###Embedding black diamonds in hair
 
+I really enjoyed earlier work growing capacitive alum crystals with Bare conductive ink (week 9), so to start here, I tried growing a clear alum crystal on top of an RGB LED board, I grew black diamonds (capacitive crystals) on a string of conductive thread, and a fake mustache, using the instructions I described already in [week 9](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/assignments/week09/).
 
-**Grow black diamonds on hair**
+I thought about growing them directly on (synthetic) hair, but that would also turn the hair into a scaffold and make it very stiff. So I decided to make strings that I can work into a wig for example (I have very short hair :D). 
+
+###Making a color-changing second skin
+
+I already mentioned this project *Coral Love Stories *by Kasia Molga (with Erik Overmeire and Ricardo O'Nascimento). After having done a little work with thermochromic pigment in the last electronics week I thought this would be incredibly cool to explore a little further. Perhaps a little skin swatch is within reach here. 
+
+<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/211299558" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
-I tried growing a clear alum crystal on top of an RGB LED board, and grew black diamonds (capacitive crystals) on a string of conductive thread, and a fake mustache, using the instructions I described already in [week 9](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/assignments/week09/).
 
 **Mix thermochromic pigment with liquid latex**
 
-**Dissolve RFID chip from a card**
 
-Loved the Oyster Card Nails so went looking for instructions as to how to get the chip out of a card to put it in something else. I found [this Instructable by ProjectSugru](https://www.instructables.com/id/Transform-your-Oyster-travelcard-with-sugru/).
+###Making RFID skin electronics 
+
+**Inspiration**
+
+<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/J9rWkgxH3zk?controls=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
+
+Loved the Oyster Card Nails done by Lucie Davis! So I went looking for some guidance instructions as to how to get the chip out of a card to put it in something else. I found [this Instructable by ProjectSugru](https://www.instructables.com/id/Transform-your-Oyster-travelcard-with-sugru/).
+
+**Dissolve RFID chip from a card**
 
 Get a card. Check how much money there's on it. Maybe you don't want to lose 50 euros on this experiment. In the Netherlands, you can check the balance of anonymous OV chipcard [here](https://www.ov-chipkaart.nl/ov-chip-en-gebruik/gebruik/ov-reishistorie-en-saldo-anonieme-kaart.htm).
 
-Put the public transport card in a non-plastic bowl and cover with aceton. I used a glass pot. Let it sit a little while. The tutorial says 6-12 hours, but my card was completely disintegrated within an hour. So keep an eye on it. Carefully take out the coil and chip. Rinse it again in acetone, and then in water. Let it dry for 20 mins or so. 
+Put the public transport card in a non-plastic bowl and cover with aceton. I used a glass pot. Let it sit a little while. 
+
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/W5aMAG9O2W0UNX3JP2" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
+
+*Pouring aceton over an RFID card inside a glass bowl, Loes Bogers 2019*
+
+The tutorial says 6-12 hours, but my card was completely disintegrated within an hour. So keep an eye on it. Carefully take out the coil and chip. Rinse it again in acetone, and then in water. Let it dry for 20 mins or so. 
+
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/fAbJApkqqRlFYOIxxu" width="480" height="360" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="https://giphy.com/gifs/fAbJApkqqRlFYOIxxu"></a></p>
+
+*Disintegration of the plastic encasing (approx. 1 hour), Loes Bogers, 2019*
+
+You can pull it a little to help it along, but it should really come right off. If you cannot easily lift the plastic peels off the chip and coil, just leave it be a few more minutes 
+
+**Disposing of the aceton**
+
+Best to let aceton on wet towels and bowls evaporate until they're totally dry before throwing them out and cleaning them. While wet, the aceton keeps eating away at plastics such as bin bag, pipes, what have you :D
+
+
+
+####Some ideas and materials
+
+* face lace
+* eyelashes
+* hair beads
+* macramé/winding yarn around strings of hair
+* bare conductive 
+* crystals & skin glue
+* LEDs and boards
+* 3D molds Renee
+* 3D printed fake nails with UV changing filament
+* RFID nails (coil)
+* Grow some more black diamonds (on hair? nails? fake lashes)
+* Skin inflatables