The silicon did not cure overnight. Could be because of the acrylic paint I added. I tried curing it a bit more in the oven but that also didn't work..... pweeeeep. Have to try this again.
The silicon did not cure overnight. Could be because of the acrylic paint I added. I tried curing it a bit more in the oven but that also didn't work..... pweeeeep. Have to cast again.
Curing in the oven helped the silicon cure a little bit better, but it was still totally snotty and wet on one side, with some integrity on the other, so I could pick it up and it's very stretchy but also snotty and disgusting.
So I studied my failure a bit more and also looked at the other girl's samples. First I realized I'd used the wrong release spray (for hard plastic molds, instead of the one for silicon molds). But the others had also used it without problems.
Bea had mixed some pigments into her silicon too, and we could tell that the dots of pigment were also still soft and liquid. In this petri dish there's some acrylic paint mixed lightly with silicon. You can really see how the parts without color are solid and cured but the brown parts are still liquid.
I also checked that the place I was curing in was totally level, to make sure it will be even.
**Cleaning uncured silicon with alcohol**
I want to cast again but will have to clean this mold first. Oh my gosh. There was no way I could get it off with soap. The [Smooth-On FAQ](https://www.smooth-on.com/support/faq/118/) told me acetone and alcohol were good bets though. So I went and did that. I was able to clean the simple side of the mold (with the textile). The one with the airchannels would be too hard to clean. So I cut out another treeshape for airchannels and glued it inside the simple mould. To cast a sheet with textile you don't actually need a mold necessarily.
**Use proper pigments for silicon!**
Smooth-on has dedicated pigments called [So-Strong](https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/strong/) :) This time around I used a bit of black pigment (that turned a lovely purple), and my silicon cured beautifully in a few hours. Wonderful release, aaaaah. Oh yes I also used thin organza instead of the super thick material I originally used as a substrate.
**Glueing the two sides together**
We had some different ideas about how to glue the two sides together: Bela put a very thin layer and it was ok, but Bea did the same and had a lot of holes and explosions. So I thought I'd do it nice and thick. Ofcourse it was way too much and I drowned the airchannels. Ughhh. Wiped it all out again and found a middle ground, I hope. The tube I wanted to cast inside kept coming out so I just left it out. I'll poke a hole later. I pressed it down with a sheet of acrylic and some bottles on top. Now we wait!
**Inflating the inflatable**
So I didn't get to do this yet with the silicon one, sadly.
This week I worked on defining my final project idea and started to getting used to the documentation process.
* face lace
* eyelashes
* hair beads
* macramé/vlechtjes
* bare conductive
* crystals & skin glue
* LEDs and boards
* 3D molds Renee
* 3D printed fake nails with UV changing filament
* RFID nails (coil)
* Grow some more black diamonds (on hair? nails? fake lashes)
* Skin inflatables
## Research
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> "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum."
I tried growing a clear alum crystal on top of an RGB LED board, and grew black diamonds (capacitive crystals) on a string of conductive thread, and a fake mustache, using the instructions I described already in [week 9](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/assignments/week09/).
## Code Example
**Mix thermochromic pigment with liquid latex**
Use the three backticks to separate code.
**Dissolve RFID chip from a card**
```
// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board
void setup() {
// initialize digital pin LED_BUILTIN as an output.
pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT);
}
Loved the Oyster Card Nails so went looking for instructions as to how to get the chip out of a card to put it in something else. I found [this Instructable by ProjectSugru](https://www.instructables.com/id/Transform-your-Oyster-travelcard-with-sugru/).
// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop() {
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
delay(1000); // wait for a second
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
delay(1000); // wait for a second
}
```
Get a card. Check how much money there's on it. Maybe you don't want to lose 50 euros on this experiment. In the Netherlands, you can check the balance of anonymous OV chipcard [here](https://www.ov-chipkaart.nl/ov-chip-en-gebruik/gebruik/ov-reishistorie-en-saldo-anonieme-kaart.htm).
<p><ahref="https://vimeo.com/10048961">Sound Waves</a> from <ahref="https://vimeo.com/radarboy">George Gally (Radarboy)</a> on <ahref="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
by <ahref="https://sketchfab.com/francisbitontistudio?utm_medium=embed&utm_source=website&utm_campaign=share-popup"target="_blank"style="font-weight: bold; color: #1CAAD9;">Francis Bitonti Studio</a>
on <ahref="https://sketchfab.com?utm_medium=embed&utm_source=website&utm_campaign=share-popup"target="_blank"style="font-weight: bold; color: #1CAAD9;">Sketchfab</a>
</p>
</div>
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Put the public transport card in a non-plastic bowl and cover with aceton. I used a glass pot. Let it sit a little while. The tutorial says 6-12 hours, but my card was completely disintegrated within an hour. So keep an eye on it. Carefully take out the coil and chip. Rinse it again in acetone, and then in water. Let it dry for 20 mins or so.
