@@ -38,6 +38,22 @@ Our first explorations involved very simple ingredients: thermovinyl, parchment/
*Some handcut examples, first actuated with the rigid backing still on, then actuated again without substrate, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**How to think about design**
* Think of simple symmetric paper cutting techniques (manual)
* Look at origami [atterms, replicate folds by welding and creating airpockets (thank you [@Tasneem Hussain in Qatar](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/tasneem.hussain/assignments/week12/), who also developed Arduino circuits and code to control the actuating, awesoooome)
* Make simple shapes and iterate with small variations
* Did I say keep it simple?
* KEEP IT SIMPLE! Like [Valentine Fruchart in Fab Lab ULB, Brussels](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/valentine.fruchart/assignments/week12/#bubbles) here, great idea with this pink bubble inflatable.
*Simple and beautiful working silicon inflatable that Valentine Fruchart in Brussels made this week, so nice!*
* Be precise with cutting or use laser cutter
* Check out [Adriana's nice design pointers in the lecture notes!](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week11/) They went up a little late this week but would have been really useful to review them again instead of inventing the wheel haha. Next time :)
* Be brave and do it with biosilicon instead of silicon silicon, like [Gabriela Lotaif's tests](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/gabriela.lotaif/) with alginat in Barcelona. Greaaat!
**About substrates**
I noticed already at this stage that the inflatables behaved very differently when you leave one side of the hard plastic backing on. It helps to control the motion into an upward movement, rather than a cringing, shrinking effect. In this video you can see all samples first with the backing still stuck to the back, and then again without any rigid plastic, just the soft vinyl.
...
...
@@ -95,6 +111,8 @@ After recalibrating I got some nicer results and ended on these parameters. In t
* power: 18
* corner power: 10
Bea continued a little bit more with the laserwelding and finetuned settings even more. Here documentation [here!](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/beatriz.sandini/assignments/week12/)
@@ -119,6 +137,8 @@ Glueing large surfaces with glue that dries in seconds is a challenge though!
SmoothOn EcoFlex is used as elastomer. Parts mixed in the ratio 1/1, pot life 45 mins, curing time 4 hours.
It's worth asking about a curing accelerator they should have available at FormX here in Amsterdam, to save some time in curing. Alternatively, you can speed up the curing process also by putting it in an oven set to a low heat (to 50 degrees celcius or so).
**Substrate**
Use substrates that are stiffer/different shore than the elastomer, then it doesn't bulge, but it curves away.
...
...
@@ -165,19 +185,24 @@ And the second part of the mold with a piece of textile on top of it is made by
##Casting the inflatable
* Calculate or measure how much silicon you need. I calculated cm3 with the rough dimensions of the shape, but also checked by pouring water in with the mold sitting on a scale. I ended up with the same numbers: 190 ml for each part of the mold, so 380 ml in total
* Calculate or measure how much silicon you need. I calculated cm3 with the rough dimensions of the shape, but also checked by pouring water in with the mold sitting on a scale. I ended up with the same numbers: 190 gr for each part of the mold, so 380 gr in total
* Mix part A and part B *slowly*, add colorant if necessary (I tried getting a marble effect by not mixing in all the pearly white acrylic too well, but ended up with blobs...)
* Prepare mold with release spray: spray thoroughly, brush into corners, and spray again.
* Cover table top with plastic for potential spillage. Pour in a place where you can also let the silicon set without having to move it.
* Use a level (*waterpas* in Dutch) to make sure your mold it absolutely level. If it's not, you can get differences in thickness, which will result in big bubbles in thinner areas, and no airflow in the thicker areas.
* Pour silicon in slowly, from one side of the mould ideally. Enjoyyyyyyy!
*1. preparing the mold, 2. Weighing the amount of water that goes into mold (weight in grams = ml = cm3) 3. preparing the silicon, 4. casting and adding textile, Loes Bogers, 2019*
*1. preparing the mold, 2. Weighing the amount of water that goes into mold (weight in grams = cm3) 3. preparing the silicon, 4. casting and adding textile, Loes Bogers, 2019*
The silicon did not cure overnight. Could be because of the acrylic paint I added. I tried curing it a bit more in the oven but that also didn't work..... pweeeeep. Have to try this again.
**Inflating the inflatable**
So I didn't get to do this yet with the silicon one, sadly.
