update wk 13

docs/assignments/week13.md

@@ -6,6 +6,10 @@
 
 I started this week by doing some material exploration based on inspiring projects before settling on an idea. So I tried out a few things that are within reach (within reason). I will see what works out well and then continue one or more of the ideas.
 
+We had a table full of amazing hair pieces, make-up, lashes, gems, glitters and stuff people had brought from home. I was totally in my element. 
+
+![](../images/wk13_drag.jpg) *Fabulous, pic by Bea Sandini, 2019*
+
 ###Embedding crystals in a hair piece
 
 I really enjoyed earlier work growing capacitive alum crystals with Bare conductive ink (week 9), so to start here, I tried growing a clear alum crystal on top of an RGB LED board, I grew black diamonds (capacitive crystals) on a string of conductive thread, and a fake mustache, using the instructions I described already in [week 9](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/assignments/week09/).
@@ -27,16 +31,125 @@ Then I experimented with several techniques to try and grow a clear alum crystal
 * leaving the contacts clear for connecting
 * doesn't fall apart :)
 
-I got quite good results after some trial and erroring!
+I got quite good results after some trial and erroring! Bea had a good idea of glueing silk on to give it a mesh to attach too. This had been a very successfull substrate before, resulting in huge crystals. 
+
+![](../images/wk13_4crystaltechniques.jpg)*Four techniques, from left to right: 1) sanded and metal wire, 2) silk and conductive thread, 3) silk and plastic string, and 4) seed crystal glued to top, Loes Bogers, 2019*
+
+NR | SURFACE | SUSPENSION | METHOD | RESULTS
+------|--------|--------|-------|--------
+1| sanded LED pocket| suspended with metal wire | add while solution is hot | very little growth
+2| hotglued silk to top | suspended with conductive wire, soldered | add while solution is hot | clusters of small crystals all around board and on wires, chip still accessible due to presoldered wires. But circuit is shorted!!
+3| hotglued silk to top | Plastic string | add while solution is hot | clusters of small crystals all around board, not on string, chip accessible after carefully breaking off some crystals from the back
+4| hotglued seed crystal to top | Sitting on bottom of jar  | add while solution is lukewarm\* | clusters with even smaller crystals, forming a halfdome around top half of the board, botom half still clear of crystals and accessible electronics.
+
+![](../images/wk13_seedcyrstalhotglue.jpg)*three neopixels with seed crystals hotglued on top, Loes Bogers, 2019*
+
+\* the seed crystal dissolves if you put it in while the water is too hot. Do not put it in until it's luke warm, but also not too cold because then the crystals have already started forming and are less likely to attach to your seed crystal. Find a sweet spot. I compare it to tea: if it's nice and hot and you'd drink it. It's too hot. If it gets to the point where you think "I have to drink it now, if I wait a minure longer it will be cold" that's a good moment to put the crystal in :)
+
+![](../images/wk13_4crystals.jpg)*Such beauties! clockwise, starting from the top: 1) sanded, suspended with metal wire, 3) sild and plastic string, 2) silk, conductive thread, 4) seed crystal sitting on bottom of jar, Loes Bogers, 2019*
+
+Clearly, for this purpose, NOT suspending the board had the advantage of keeping the back of the board clear of crystals so it's still possible to solder the pads after. But at the same time forming a beautiful strong cluster in the shape of a dome on the top of the board. The crystals are smaller with the seed crystal than with the glued silk though. It would be worth trying the silk technique in combination with letting the board sit on the bottom. So I did a few of those too, and some looked pretty nice. 
+
+**Important!:** when you are not suspending the substrate in the solution, but letting it sit on the bottom, you have to take it out on time. I let them grow for about 2 hours before I took them out. I left a few overnight and they were just one big hard rock the next day. So really time when you should be taking them out and use transparent cups so you can monitor the process. 
+
+![](../images/wk13_crystalback.jpg)*Left: bottom of the board with the seed crystal is totally clean, with the others I had to carefull break away some crystal clusters to free up the connector pads again. This makes the clusters weaker and easier to break altogether, Loes Bogers, 2019*
+
+**Hooking up the neopixels**
+
+I followed the [Adafruit neopixel hookup guide](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/arduino-library-installation)
+
+*Install Gemma board etc*
+
+I used this [guide](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-gemma-m0/using-with-arduino-ide) to install the Arduino SAMD board support and the Adafruit SAMD
+
+*Install Adafruit_NeoPixel via Library Manager*
+
+From the Sketch menu, > Include Library > Manage Libraries...  In the text input box type in "NeoPixel". Look for "Adafruit NeoPixel by Adafruit" and select the latest version by clicking on the popup menu next to the Install button. Then click on the Install button. After it's installed, you can click the "close" button ([Source](https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/arduino-library-installation)
+
+*Schematic using Gemma*
+
+I hooked up the RGD neopixels like so, following the instructions in this [tutorial](https://learn.adafruit.com/flora-rgb-smart-pixels/hook-up-alligator-clips)
+
+![](../images/wk13_hookup.jpg)*Hooking up neopixel to Gemma board, image via [Learn.Adafruit.com](https://learn.adafruit.com/flora-rgb-smart-pixels/hook-up-alligator-clips)*
+
+*Simple code test*
+
+select Sketchbook→Libraries→Adafruit_NeoPixel→strandtest
+
+(If the Adafruit_NeoPixel rollover menu is not present, the library has not been correctly installed, or the IDE needs to be restarted after installation. Check the installation steps above to confirm it’s properly named and located.)
+
+Select your board type and serial port from the Tools menu, and try uploading to the board. If the NeoPixels are connected and powered as previously described, you should see a little light show. 
+
+My Gemma didn't show up and I was getting a bit fed up so I continued to develop the code on my Arduino Uno and I'll transfer it later. With the UNO, I could upload the strandtest and see the working LEDs. That all worked fine so I proceeded to solder up my LED crystals so I could connect them and see how the light is being filtered through the alum.
+
+**Soldering**
+
+It turned out to be quite challenging to hook all these babies up. One crystal crumpled while soldering, and the one with the conductive thread attached turned out to be totally shorted. Meh. So in the end I had 3 left. Two of them work fine, but one just won't light up yet and needs some debugging. The signal connection isnt very stable but also hard to reach. 
+
+What is important is that each GND and 5V pad will have two wires attached (one going to the previous pixel and one to the next). So plan your soldering and connect both at once. I didn't go through-hole because the crystal prevented me from pushing the wire through, so I just soldered solid core wires to the top of the pad. Fine in most cases but one I guess (where it did go through but then didn't make a good connection, ugh).
+
+![](../images/wk13_soldering.jpg)*Not easy to solder, but a bit of paper underneath helped a lot, Loes Bogers, 2019*
 
-NR | SURFACE | SUSPENSION | METHOD
-------|--------|--------|-------
-1| Sanded LED pocket| Metal wire | Hot (virgin crystal) |
-|  |  |
-|  |  |
-|  |  | 
+*RGB colors?*
 
-![](../images/wk13_4crystaltechniques.jpg)*Four techniques, from left to right: 1 -4, Loes Bogers, 2019*
+I refreshed my knowledge of making colors with an RGB LED here. To freshen up my memory :) Then I went and found some nice code for a fading LED using a sine wave (that's a very nice way of fading I think, very elegant solution lol) and found [this code here](https://codebender.cc/sketch:136737#NeoPixel%20Breathe.ino) by Jason Yandell. Thanks Jason! I changed the color and defined a nice range for the speed of the breathing, that I want to control by touching (or nearly touching) the conductive crystal.
+
+```
+//Written by: Jason Yandell
+//Modified by Loes Bogers, 2019
+
+#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
+
+#define PIN 10
+
+// Parameter 1 = number of pixels in strip
+// Parameter 2 = pin number (most are valid)
+// Parameter 3 = pixel type flags, add together as needed:
+//   NEO_KHZ800  800 KHz bitstream (most NeoPixel products w/WS2812 LEDs)
+//   NEO_KHZ400  400 KHz (classic 'v1' (not v2) FLORA pixels, WS2811 drivers)
+//   NEO_GRB     Pixels are wired for GRB bitstream (most NeoPixel products)
+//   NEO_RGB     Pixels are wired for RGB bitstream (v1 FLORA pixels, not v2)
+Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(16, PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
+
+void setup() {
+  strip.begin();
+  strip.setBrightness(85);  // Lower brightness and save eyeballs!
+  strip.show(); // Initialize all pixels to 'off'
+}
+
+void loop() {
+
+int TOTAL_LEDS = 2;	// only using 2 LEDs for now
+float MaximumBrightness = 150; // don't set to 255 unless powering with 5V
+
+//Speedfactor between 0.008 and 0.05 is nice
+float SpeedFactor = 0.008; // nice and relaxed
+float StepDelay = 5; // ms for a step delay on the lights
+
+// Make the lights breathe (65535 is amount of steps)
+for (int i = 0; i < 65535; i++) { 
+// Intensity will go from 10 - MaximumBrightness in a "breathing" manner
+float intensity = MaximumBrightness /2.0 * (1.0 + sin(SpeedFactor * i));
+strip.setBrightness(intensity);
+
+// Now set every LED to that color
+for (int ledNumber=0; ledNumber<TOTAL_LEDS; ledNumber++) {
+strip.setPixelColor(ledNumber, 100, 100, 255); //violet=ish
+}
+
+strip.show();
+//Wait a bit before continuing to breathe
+delay(StepDelay);
+
+	}
+}
+
+```
+So that worked out very beautifully! I had a little bit of a harder time using an analog sensor to control this code though. So that will take some more work. But right now it's christmas. Enjoy the lights :D 
+
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/jro8mAq9OXjxpuZP4m" width="480" height="270" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe>
+
+*Shine shine shining on, Loes Bogers, 2019*
 
 
 ###Making a color-changing second skin
@@ -45,9 +158,11 @@ I already mentioned this project *Coral Love Stories *by Kasia Molga (with Erik
 
 <iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/211299558" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
-
 **Mix thermochromic pigment with liquid latex**
 
+I mixed up a good teaspoon of green thermochromic pigment with the liquid latex and cast some patches with conductive thread and conductive fabric inside. 
+
+<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mzgM2YMIU7U?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
 ###Making RFID skin electronics 
 
@@ -79,7 +194,31 @@ You can pull it a little to help it along, but it should really come right off.
 
 Best to let aceton on wet towels and bowls evaporate until they're totally dry before throwing them out and cleaning them. While wet, the aceton keeps eating away at plastics such as bin bag, pipes, what have you :D
 
+**Recoiling the coil**
+
+I let the chip and coil dry, peopled off whatever residue was still there, carefully, and untangled the coil. It's about a metre long. I then recoiled the wire by shaping it around a small cylindrical jar that I then stuck to a piece of vinylsticker (we ran out of painting tape) to flatten it and keep it together. 
+
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/icP1oRKK3qcE78ZqSH" width="480" height="360" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p>*Re-coiling the coil carefully, kept in place with a vinyl sticker, Loes Bogers, 2019*</p>
+
+**Testing the coil**
+After all this handling I went down to the metro station to see if my RFID chip was still working. It feels a bit weird to do it, like you're cheating the system haha. Which of course I'm not even doing because I'm not changing anything about the card or the information on it, just giving it a new wrapper
+
+<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/et9T_m5meNE" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
+
+**Concept: fake implant**
+No that this all still works, what do I do? I didn't want to make any kind of wearable or bracelet for this that people could mistake for "making it easier" to use a data tracking system to use *public* transport. I think it's very weird for example that people who benefit from paying with cash are worse off or can't travel with this system at all. It does not make sense to me. So I thought of gestures to highlight this fact that we're all willing to comply with these big systems that take our data in the name of ease of travel and convenience. 
+
+So I thought of bowing as a gesture to open the gates to the metro system. In a way we are all bowing to the system anyway, so let's make that explicit and stop pretending we control such a system when in fact it's playing us. If bowing should be the interaction, then the chip would have to be placed on a person's forehead. 
+
+![](../images/wk13_pvsElastica.jpg)*FormX liquid latex used to cast the RFID chip, Loes Bogers, 2019*
+
+As this is skin electronics I thought it should become an extension of that organ. I would love to be brave enough to just implant it, but I'm definitely not, so I decided to cast the RFID tag in a transparent/yellowish tone liquid latex. The chip started "pooping" as the latex cured. This latex cures by evaporating ammonia (it's stinky)! Which caused some of the chip to leak a brownish liquid. I'm not sure what effect that has on its functioning but there's only one way to find out. I will continue with the form factor for now and test it. If it doesn't work I can try other methods of casting the chip in a bit of latex.
+
+<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/htkHA3xu29mig3Rokh" width="480" height="360" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p>*Latex makes the RFID chip poop, Loes Bogers, 2019*</p>
+
+I have theater make up sealer from Kryolan that I added on top so I can paint over it nicely with any foundation in any skin tone, to make it blend with my skin tone as if it were implanted under the skin. This sealer is used to seal special FX rubber noses etc. 
 
+![](../images/wk13_sealerkryolan.jpg)*Kryolan product placement next to my RFID chip, Loes Bogers, 2019*
 
 ####Some ideas and materials