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...@@ -27,6 +27,12 @@ Also Fiore's tutorial has been very helpful here: ...@@ -27,6 +27,12 @@ Also Fiore's tutorial has been very helpful here:
\* *I notice I'm becoming one of those people who writes documentation but doesn't explain the steps that already feel "normal" to me. Hmmm. I'll have a think to think what I think about that.* \* *I notice I'm becoming one of those people who writes documentation but doesn't explain the steps that already feel "normal" to me. Hmmm. I'll have a think to think what I think about that.*
## OR: push via http and access tokens
Later on I started using my Github Desktop app for a bunch of other stuff and my connection stopped working. I couldn't figure it out so I deleted the repository and cloned it anew over http. This [tutorial](https://itnext.io/how-to-use-github-desktop-with-gitlab-cd4d2de3d104) by Shedrack Akintayo explains how to use access tokens push without having to re-enter your password when pushing over http. Amazeballs, thank you Shedrack!
## Customizing text, fonts, colors in the mkdoc ## Customizing text, fonts, colors in the mkdoc
I customized some basic stuff to change the look of the page. I love the font Karla, we use it for everything where I work, so I'm using it here too. I think you can basically look up any Google Font and use it. I liked the idea of having a special font for code, so I specified one for that as well. I customized some basic stuff to change the look of the page. I love the font Karla, we use it for everything where I work, so I'm using it here too. I think you can basically look up any Google Font and use it. I liked the idea of having a special font for code, so I specified one for that as well.
...@@ -106,5 +112,108 @@ Then you keep the code you want to keep, delete the conflicting code and the mar ...@@ -106,5 +112,108 @@ Then you keep the code you want to keep, delete the conflicting code and the mar
![](../images/wk1_solved.jpg)*conflicts resolved!* ![](../images/wk1_solved.jpg)*conflicts resolved!*
##State of the art & inspiration
## Inspiration
### Fabricademy graduates
![](https://gitlab.fabcloud.org/academany/fabricademy/2019/students/jessica.stanley/raw/master/docs/images/finalproject/stitchsyth2.gif)*Jessica Stanley's Stitch Synth project, 2019*
**Jessica Stanley's Stitch Synth**
I saw [Jessica's work](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/projects/00final-project/) at the last Fabricademy expo in Amsterdam. Super nicely done.
I also really liked her experiments with tesselation in the Textile as Scaffold week. The slow movements the textile creates are really nice to watch.
And also her voronoi for [computational couture](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/assignments/week07/) are so cool. She printed these shapes on stretchy fabric, making the textile pull itself into a 3D shape.
And the pleat switch and this sensor below. OMG Jessica stop it nowwww I'm totally fangirling your fabricademy page. This makes me think I will really enjoy the electronics work in the next few months.
![](https://media.giphy.com/media/5k0rrSdjXmmQ68mABP/giphy.gif)*Jessica Stanley, 2019*
**Teresa van Twuijver's analog soft sensor**
[Teresa](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/teresa.vantwuijver/assignments/week05/) made this nice soft sensor using smock embroidery. I'd seen a similar thing on kobakant once, wow it's soooooo nice.
![](https://gitlab.fabcloud.org/academany/fabricademy/2019/students/teresa.vantwuijver/raw/master/docs/images/week5_softsensorproto2.gif)*Teresa van Twuijver, 2019*
Her [circular fashion designs](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/teresa.vantwuijver/assignments/week03/) are also quite cool!
**Barbara's Kombucher!**
Really cool idea to make a tool like this [kombucha fiber printer](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/barbara.arteaga/projects/final-project/)
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cuHtJgnv2qU" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
And many many more...
### Go big or go home: drag performers and other style queens
This is something I've been obsessed with for a long time. I think the innovative ways of thinking about the malleability and unstable nature of the body and gender is super interesting and made me fall in love with this art form. I do it myself sometimes too :) No RuPaul quote is lost on me (we're all born naked and the rest is...you know the rest). I'd love to take as many assignments as possible closer toward something that might be applicable in the context of the art of drag to develop into a larger project later. I imagine eco-aware drag could be a very interesting avenue to explore. In the meantime, I'll summarize as: go big, or go home.
**House of Holographic Hoes and Milk X Hana Quist**
A local house who did an amazing show at last year's superball, with over the top LED powered gowns. I mean, I don't really like LED strips so much, especially not in clothing but context IS everything.
Or drag performer Milk in this knitted number by Hana Quist. Oh yes.
![](../images/wk0_drag.jpg)*Left: House of Holographic Hoes at Paradiso's Superball, 2019. Right: Drag performer Milk in a knitted garment by Hana Quist*
**Other fabulous drag performers and style queens**
Such as Aynouk Tan - you can worry about the clothing mountain - or just dress up as one. I think [her thinking and personal style](https://www.aynouktan.com/) are really out there.
![Aynouk Tan](https://aynouktan.com/____impro/1/onewebmedia/10827970_10153943396384659_1941713512951619825_o-2.jpg?etag=%22464ea-58ef9af9%22&sourceContentType=image%2Fjpeg&ignoreAspectRatio&resize=700,467)*Aynouk Tan with a mic and smiling lady in black*
**I bow to Valeska Jasso Collado for her graduation collection**
These theatrical garments have an amazing genderclowning vibe about them, they remind me of [1920s Bauhaus costumes](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/U4wEGXhe1duKVyacjE6z3KsIFZg=/0x0:1000x645/1200x800/filters:focal(420x243:580x403)/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/57322995/escola_bauhaus.0.0.jpg)and I love it! She folded latex-covered foam into [geometric garments](https://www.dezeen.com/2014/06/09/valeska-jasso-collado-westminster-fashion-collection/).
![](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/3f/fd/40/3ffd409a341499881843557a29ac5b6f.jpg)*image by Valeska Jasso Colado*
### Textile artists/designers/upcyclists/hackers
![](../images/wk0_designinspiration.jpg)
*Images: Golden Joinery (image by Droog) in the background, Justyna Wolodkiewicz' embellishments (left) and Anya Hindmarch's embellished skirt (image by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images Europe)*
**[Golden Joinery](http://goldenjoinery.com/#about) or kintsugi for clothing, by Painted Series** is a really nice example of repair as a design strategy that adds value to used things.
I really enjoy the hectic **embellishments by Justyna Wolodkiewicz** and the one on the **pink skirt by Anya Hindmarch** There's loads out there. One reason why I like this is because I imagine picking cleverly from waste materials will allow for a lot of cool designs. They can also be combined with electronics perhaps? I really like the 3D textures you can add with this.
**Coral Love Stories by Kasia Molga (and Erik Overmeire)** below is such a beautiful combination of fashion and electronics and thermochromic pigments. It's very subtle, unlike some other sources of inspiration but I just think this is beautifully done and tells an important story about shringking coral reefs.
<div style="padding:56.25% 0 0 0;position:relative;"><iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/211299558?color=00d554&byline=0&portrait=0" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:100%;height:100%;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><script src="https://player.vimeo.com/api/player.js"></script>*Coral Love Story by Kasia Molga (with Erik Overmeire and Ricardo O'Nascimento)*
And let's not forget the amazing experiments and documentation done by **[Plusea on the Kobakant How to Get What You Want page](https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/)**, such as this beardy sway sensor....*bows*.
![](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47790755952_9b33dd38fa.jpg)
Last but not least, a shop! **[Mooizooi in Haarlem](https://mooizooi.org/)!** This is a social enterprise that collects waste materials from industry, sort it by color, and sell it for almost nothing. I'd love to stop by there and use only this leftover material, for example to make the embellishments like the ones below.
**My own students who have inspired me!**
The students I get to know during the minor Makers Lab continue to inspire, teach and challenge(!) me loads. Some of their experiments were really great!
![](../images/wk0_studentwork.jpg)
Top left is Geert Lens' textile touchscreen entirely made from scratch (2018). He developed a ropemaker to insulate conductive thread, a loom to make the textile, and of course programmed the sensor himself.
Geert also made this glove (bottom left) that vibrates when it senses peaks in electromagnetic fields, such as when a subway train pulls out of a station (together with Anton Westin and Jaap Spruitenburg 2018). The wanted to explore invisible signals in the city and found that some people are extremely sensitive to EMFs, whereas most of us aren't even aware of them.
Melissa de Bie and Elisa van der Burg's and bioplastics experiments to research how they could make the gorgeous tote bag in 2019 (middle).
Kristin Jakubek & Frida Eriksson's skin sensor (with some help of Geert) from 2018 (top right).
Geert's coils that pick up some residue energy from RFID scanners, just enough to light up an LED (bottom right).
### Books
* Radical Matter: Rethinking Materials for a Sustainable Future by Kate Franklin
* Zeroes and Ones by Sadie Plant
* Fray by Julia Bryan-Wilson
* Folding Techniques for Designers From Sheet to Form by Paul Jackson
* Supersurfaces" Folding as Method of Generating Forms for Architecture, Products and Fashion by Sophia Vyzoviti
That's it for now!
...@@ -96,9 +96,7 @@ Pretty nice beginner tutorial this one [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iX ...@@ -96,9 +96,7 @@ Pretty nice beginner tutorial this one [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iX
[This tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_bZJjkkkG8&list=PLXJnjBsCdBxHFOV1te8BiZnfz9LF7mpHT&index=3&t=0s) was great for creating tile-like patterns like the one I made below. I was not successfull in creating a printable design yet! I have to study the parameters a little better to understand how I can avoid making crazy intersecting lines and end up with curves that an be offset and extruded. But good start and lots of playing around. [This tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_bZJjkkkG8&list=PLXJnjBsCdBxHFOV1te8BiZnfz9LF7mpHT&index=3&t=0s) was great for creating tile-like patterns like the one I made below. I was not successfull in creating a printable design yet! I have to study the parameters a little better to understand how I can avoid making crazy intersecting lines and end up with curves that an be offset and extruded. But good start and lots of playing around.
![](../images/wk08_prusasaysno.jpg)*Looking really cool! But Prusa slicer says no. Loes Bogers, 2019* ![](../images/wk08_prusasaysno.jpg)*Some other examples I made. Looking really cool, but Prusa slicer says no. Loes Bogers, 2019*
SCREENSHOTS HERE
**Truchet tiles** **Truchet tiles**
...@@ -111,7 +109,7 @@ SCREENSHOTS HERE ...@@ -111,7 +109,7 @@ SCREENSHOTS HERE
![](../images/wk08_truchettiles2.jpg)*Producing a pattern that can be created for each cell, Loes Bogers, 2019* ![](../images/wk08_truchettiles2.jpg)*Producing a pattern that can be created for each cell, Loes Bogers, 2019*
#GIF HERE ![](../images/wk08_dispatch.gif)*Switching between modes, Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../images/wk08_truchettiles5.jpg)*Exploding cells and using the segments to define parameters for curves, Loes Bogers, 2019* ![](../images/wk08_truchettiles5.jpg)*Exploding cells and using the segments to define parameters for curves, Loes Bogers, 2019*
......
...@@ -548,10 +548,4 @@ Look at the datasheet, assuming a 9V battery. To know resistance and amps etc. ...@@ -548,10 +548,4 @@ Look at the datasheet, assuming a 9V battery. To know resistance and amps etc.
* The Culture series by Afroditi Psarra and Dafni Papadopoulou * The Culture series by Afroditi Psarra and Dafni Papadopoulou
**Flip dots**
**Vibration motors**
...@@ -179,6 +179,10 @@ I used Rhino to design the mold for the inflatable. It consists of designing a t ...@@ -179,6 +179,10 @@ I used Rhino to design the mold for the inflatable. It consists of designing a t
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pbkiEAYWoJI?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pbkiEAYWoJI?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
![](../images/wk12_cutfiles.jpg)*Elements to cut, Loes Bogers, 2019*
[Download the cutfile for the mold (.dxf)](../files/wk12_cutfile_mold.dxf)
**Parts list** **Parts list**
The mold consists of two parts that are glued together with a little bit of silicon after: The mold consists of two parts that are glued together with a little bit of silicon after:
......
...@@ -115,7 +115,7 @@ Glycerine was discovered by accident in 1779 by K.W.Scheele. The Swedish chemist ...@@ -115,7 +115,7 @@ Glycerine was discovered by accident in 1779 by K.W.Scheele. The Swedish chemist
##Concerns ##Concerns
**Describe how this ingredient has been or might be contested. What are the issues and concerns? Which arguments are put forward?** **Describe how this ingredient has been or might be contested. What are the concerns and dilemmas? Which arguments are put forward?**
*may be cultural, health-wise, ecological, social, cultural, political, economical arguments* *may be cultural, health-wise, ecological, social, cultural, political, economical arguments*
......
*Note: the ingredients section is still under development, this is an example of what the entries here will look like.*
# GLYCERINE
(glycerin, glycerol)
**What is it and how is it produced or sourced?**
Glycerin is a sugar alcohol derived from animal products, plants or petroleum (as a by-product of biofuel). It can also be obtained from microalgae oils, and it can be recovered from used cooking oil. Not all of these are equally common however.
Vegetable glycerin is made by heating triglyceride-rich vegetable fats — such as palm, soy and coconut oils — under pressure, using heat, and/or together with a strong alkali, such as lye, which causes the glycerin to split away from the fatty acids and mix together with water, forming an odorless, sweet-tasting, syrup-like liquid. During WWI and WWII, glycerine was produced by fermentation as well, but there routes have not been under-utilized by industry because it could not compete with chemical synthesis from petrochemical compounds.
With necessary precaution you can make glycerine yourself.
**What are its possible functions in biofabricating?**
*e.g. plasticizer, filler, colorant, PH modifier, mordant, solvent, release agent, curing agent, softener, and so on*
Vegetable glycerin softens and hydrates human skin, increasing smoothness and suppleness. It is often used in skincare and also works as a laxative. It has antimicrobial and antiviral properties. It has many possible functions (as many as 1583 uses have been listed by the Glycerine Producers Association in 1945), but here are a few that are particularly useful in biofabication:
- plasticizer for more flexible bioplastics
- moisturizer or softener in fish leather tanning (e.g. fish leather)
- additive for soap bubble mixes
- solvent for pigment extraction (not documented here)
**Processing information**
Dissolves in: cold and hot water, and alcohol
PH value: 5
**Selecting the right type**
*How do you know if you are getting the right type (in nature/at the shop)? Or can you use any? For example, carbonate and bicarbonate soda are significantly different, but you may find it is referred to as "soda"*
Look for glycerin(e) or glycerol. In the U.S., glycerin(e) is a brand name for a purified variety of 95%, with glycerol being the principal component. In Europe, glycerol is more widely applied interchangeably. Smaller bottles are often more expensive. You might need to contact the supplier about the origins of the product if you want to know before. Choose a plant-based glycerine, it should state on the label what it is made of.
## Local abundance
**Where are you located?**
Rotterdam, the Netherlands
**Can this ingredient be found in nature there?**
No, it is a processed ingredient. But it can be produced almost anywhere. Try to find a vegetable-based glycerine that is produced regionally or locally.
**If not, please describe or list local suppliers and price**
In the Netherlands, Orphi is an affordable vegetable-based glycerin brand. This ingredient is best purchased online, in 1 litre bottles.
and costs about 6 Euros per 1000 ml (1L).
**If store-bought, find out where the ingredient was produced. How far is the production source from where you are?**
In Portugal: less than 2000 km from site of use
##Eco-compatibility
*Type and amount of energy used to produce this ingredient, e.g. does it require a lot of water, heat, chemicals?*
The production of glycerine requires heat and pressure, and sometimes strong alkali, like lye. It it also a product of fermentation processes but this is less efficient and cannot yet compete with synthetic methods.
**Toxicity**
*Is this ingredient toxic to humans/animals?*
No. But some people have an allergic skin reaction to vegetable glycerine.
**Distance from origin to site of use**
*In which region(s) of the world is this produced? Is it related to specific natural contexts or industries (e.g. near sea or rivers, in hot humid climates).*
Depends on the way it is produced, but there are many methods. Needs further research.
**Shelf life**
*Look up shelf life & expiry date, but also use of senses to check: can you see when it’s off, can you smell it?*
Shelf life: years if unopened, check smell
**Vegan**
*Is it made without the use of any animal products?*
Yes/No, depends on the method of production
**Is this a by-product is it found in a waste stream?**
*Is this ingredient a by-product or does it come from waste streams*
Yes, it *can* be a by-product of biofuel production and/or soap production, but this is not always the case.
**Renewable**
*Can this resource be naturally replenished on a human timescale?*
Yes
*What do you know about how long it takes for this ingredient regrow?Which plants/micro organisms grow this ingredient? How long does it take them to regenerate? Under which conditions?*
- Glycerine from soy: byproduct of soybean biodiesel industry
- Glycerine from palm oil: kernels of palm fruits are harvested all year round. But is also connected to deforestation issues.
- Glycerine may be a byproduct from soap manufacturing
Needs more research
## Cultural & historical information
*Historically, what were the uses of this ingredient? In which contexts were these uses discovered? When? By whom? How did it travel to other places?*
Glycerine is closely linked to the life processes themselves, and is a component of all living cells. It occurs naturally in wine, beer, bread and other fermentation products of sugar and grains. It is found in nature as triglycerides (a combination of glycerine and fatty acids that make up almost any vegetable and animal fat or oil).
Glycerine was discovered by accident in 1779 by K.W.Scheele. The Swedish chemist was heating olive oil and a lead monoxide, and he published his findings in 1783 in the Transactions of the Royal Academy of Sweden. His method which he called "the sweet principle of fat" was renamed into glycerine (from the Greek γλυκύς or glukus which means sweet) by M.E. Chevreul, who patented a new production method in 1823. Glycerine was of no economic significance until Alfred Nobel found the first worldwide technical application for it: for his invention of dynamite in 1866. It is said to have fueled industrial development of chemicals.
##Concerns
**Describe how this ingredient has been or might be contested. What are the concerns and dilemmas? Which arguments are put forward?**
*may be cultural, health-wise, ecological, social, cultural, political, economical arguments*
The purity of glycerine is essential for some applications (e.g. in chemistry, cosmetics, and food grade glycerine). With the increase in biofuel production, the production of glycerine grew as well. Purifying glycerine however is a particularly energy intentive part of the production process. Perhaps further research could be done on the required purity of glycerine for use in bioplastics.
##References
*Please provide information to the references used*
- **Environmental factsheet: Glycerol**, by the European Commission, n.d. [link](https://ec.europa.eu/jrc/sites/jrcsh/files/BISO-EnvSust-Bioproducts-Glycerol_140930.pdf)
- **Glycerol production by microbial fermentation: a review** by Zhengxiang Wang, Jian Zhuge, Huiying-Fang, Bernard A Prior, in Biotechnology Advances, Vol.19, Issue 3, June 2001, pp. 201-223: [link](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S073497500100060X)
- **Glycerine: An Overview** by the Soap and Detergent Association, Glycerine & Oleochemical Division New York, 1990: [link](http://bit.ly/Zsg3u9)
- **Nothing Takes The Place of Glycerine** by the Glycerine Producers Association, New York, 1949: [link](https://www.aciscience.org/docs/Nothing%20takes%20the%20place%20of%20glycerine.pdf)
- **What is vegetable glycerin? Uses, benefits and side effects** Alina Petre for Healthline, 19 December 2018: [link](https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/vegetable-glycerin#what-it-is)
- **How to make glycerine from vegetable oil**, Sciencing.com, n.d. [link](https://sciencing.com/sources-of-organic-matter-in-soil-12347549.html)
- **Glycerol**, Wikipedia, n.d. [link](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycerol)
- **What is sustainable palm oil?** Greenpalm.org, n.d.: [link](https://greenpalm.org/about-palm-oil/sustainable-palm-oil)
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