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Commit eb3163c2 authored by Loes's avatar Loes
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Update madderdye.md

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......@@ -32,7 +32,6 @@ Final form achieved after: 2 hours
* **madder roots (dried) - 50 g** also: Rubia Tinctorum, this is the dye stuff. Is enough for 50-100g WoF (weight of fibre).
* **water - 500 ml/g** solvent
* **alum - 30 g** (also: potassium aluminium sulphate) will draw the pigment (alizarin) out of the madder root.
* **soda ash - 5 g** (sodium carbonate Na2CO3), changes PH (more alkaline) to create bright reds
* **a coffee filter** to filter the fine particles from the dye
* optional: 100% pure silk, or aquarel/water colors paper and a paint brush to test the dye/ink
......@@ -62,15 +61,15 @@ Approx. 500 ml
- Put the madder roots in water and let them soak for 24 hours before processing (also when using madder powder)
- optional: grind the madder root into a powder using a blender. By making the dye stuff smaller, you create more surface, which makes it easier to pull the pigments out of the madder root.
1. **Extract the pigment with alum**
1. **Extract the pigment**
- Bring 600 ml of water to the boil, add the alum and stir to dissolve. Bring the water down to 70 degrees celcius. Use a thermometer and make sure it doesn't exceed 70 degrees throughout the entire cooking process (the madder pigment will turn dull and brown).
- Heat 600 ml of water up to 70 degrees celcius. Use a thermometer and make sure it doesn't exceed 70 degrees throughout the entire cooking process (the madder pigment will turn dull and brown).
- Add the ground madder roots and simmer at 70 degrees for 60 minutes.
- Strain the liquid into a bowl (keep the madder roots)
- Put the dye back into the pot, and add the soda ash (it will froth a little), stir and continue to simmer for 10-15 minutes. This is the dye for bright reds.
- Filter the liquid through a cheesecloth or coffee filter to filter out the solid bits. This may take a while.
- Optional: you can keep the madder roots for a second filtration with alum solution. It won't be as intense but you will continue to get color from it albeit a bit lighter. If it holds no more color, add vinegar or another acid to modify the color of the dye from the second filtration to orange and yellow colors.
- Optional: you can keep the madder roots for a second filtration. It won't be as intense but you will continue to get color from it albeit a bit lighter. If it holds no more color, add vinegar or another acid to modify the color of the dye from the second filtration to orange and yellow colors.
1. **Using the ink as a dye or on paper**
......@@ -85,8 +84,6 @@ Approx. 500 ml
![](../../images/madder1.jpg)*Madder roots, Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../../images/madder2.jpg)*Adding alum , Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../../images/madder3.jpg)*After the first extraction, Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../../images/madder4.jpg)*Add a pinch of soda ash, Loes Bogers, 2020*
......@@ -99,7 +96,7 @@ Approx. 500 ml
- You can extract pigment (insoluble particles) for paints by adding a 10% carbonate soda solution (25g of soda ash on 250g hot water). Add only little bits because it froths a lot. Let it precipitate and filter it through a fine cloth. Dry the solids and add a binder to create paints. See also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YVO2Dr8gD8.
- Add a binder such as arabic gum to create a nicer flow if you wish to use this ink for painting and arts, not dyeing textiles.
- madder can also used cold: liquidize the soaked roots, add 6% WoF calcium carbonate, add water and let it stand - covered - for 4-7 days. Stir occasionally. Then add mordanted fibre. See also: http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/madder_dye_nest_rubio.html
- add 6% WoF calcium carbonate (chalk) dissolved in a bit of hot water, instead of alum to draw out the pigment.
- add 6% WoF calcium carbonate (chalk) dissolved in a bit of hot water to draw out the pigment.
- make a post-mordant bath with 6% WoF calcium carbonate (chalk) dissolved in a bit of hot water to help attach the fibre.
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