- You can extract pigment (insoluble particles) for paints by adding a 10% carbonate soda solution (25g of soda ash on 250g hot water). Add only little bits because it froths a lot. Let it precipitate and filter it through a fine cloth. Dry the solids and add a binder to create paints. See also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YVO2Dr8gD8.
- Add a binder such as arabic gum to create a nicer flow if you wish to use this ink for painting and arts, not dyeing textiles.
- madder can also used cold: liquidize the soaked roots, add 6% WoF calcium carbonate, add water and let it stand - covered - for 4-7 days. Stir occasionally. Then add mordanted fibre. See also: http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/madder_dye_nest_rubio.html
- add 6% WoF calcium carbonate (chalk) dissolved in a bit of hot water, instead of alum to draw out the pigment.
- add 6% WoF calcium carbonate (chalk) dissolved in a bit of hot water, instead of alum to draw out the pigment.
- make a post-mordant bath with 6% WoF calcium carbonate (chalk) dissolved in a bit of hot water to help attach the fibre.
Processes for *pre-mordanting* textiles and fibres is discussed here. Simultaneous and post-mordanting is also possible, the latter is especially used to shift colors, using metal mordants (copper sulphate, and iron sulphate), but these are not discussed here.
Processes for *pre-mordanting* textiles and fibres is discussed here. Simultaneous and post-mordanting is also possible.
**Physical form**
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###Ingredients
***Ingredient - xx g** also: *alt name*
One of these or a combination (see below):
***Alum** (*aluminium sulphate*)
***Cream of Tartar***(tartaric acid)*
***Oak galls**, the whole nut, or powder (*galnut extract, gallotannic acid*)
***Symplocos** (*symplocos cochinchinensis, horse sugar, sweetleaf*), leaves or powder, a plant-based alum mordant, e.g. from the Bebali Foundation. Use the yellow ones that have fallen off the shrubs naturally.
***Iron sulphate** powder, or iron liquor
###Tools
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@@ -84,7 +92,7 @@ Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Bring to 80 degrees Celcius and let simmer
10-15% WoF
Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Steep for 3-5 days inside the mordant bath, stir occassionally. Rinse before dyeing.
Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Steep for 3-4 weeks inside the mordant bath, stir occassionally. Rinse before dyeing.
### Alum + Cream of Tartar (for wool)
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### Symplocos (for wool)
Bark of Lodrah (Symplocos Racemosa sold as *symplocos*) is a plant that is naturally high in alum. It is cultivated in Indonesia and other places.
Bark of Lodrah (*symplocos racemosa* or *symplocos cochinchinensis* or *symplocos tinctoria*, all sold as *symplocos*) is a plant that grows on acidic soil and is naturally high in alum. It is cultivated in Asia (e.g. Bebali Foundation in Indonesia) and the Americas.
20-50% WoF (Botanical Colors)
Boil the symplocos leaves for 30 minutes at 80 degrees Celcius or until they sink to the bottom of the pot. Let the pot cool to 40 degrees C.
Boil the symplocos leaves for 30 minutes at 80 degrees Celcius or until they sink to the bottom of the pot. Let the pot cool to 40 degrees C. Use 50% WoF when you use leaves, or less when using powder.
Add the fibre and slowly bring pot back to 80 degrees C. Keep there for another 30-60 mins. Rinse the fibre with warm water, it should be slightly yellow now (this will disappear during dyeing).
Another plant that is known to by naturally high in alum is club moss (NL: wolfsklauw).
### Soy milk (for silk)
In Japan silk is treated with soy milk (see protein recipe below for suggested process).
### Iron sulphate
0.25 - 1% WoF (when using powder)
Dissolve in hot water before adding to the mordant bath. Mordant fibres for 45-60 mins, rinse. Iron mordant baths can be used to shift color (cold or hot) multiple times, just dip a dyed swatch into the iron bath until the desired color is achieved. For more info, see below.
##**CELLULOSE FIBRES**
### Alum (hot)
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10-15% WoF
Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Steep for 3-5 days inside the mordant bath, stir occassionally. Rinse before dyeing.
Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Steep for 3-4 weeks inside the mordant bath, stir occassionally. Rinse before dyeing.
### Tannin | Alum
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10-15% WoF Alum
Dissolve separately in hot water, add together (will create bubbles). Add water and fibre. Boil for 1 hour, steep overnight. Rinse.
Some add 1.5% Soda ash to this bath (Roos Soetekauw, Kim Eichler Messner)
Tannins are for lightfastness. The tannin is not strongly attached to the fiber but adding alum bonds it into place. Oak galls (10%), myrobalan, tara powder (10%), sumac, pomegranate (10%), quebracho moreno, walnut hulls and cutch all are good tannins. But some also add color. Oak galls and tara powder are clear, light tannins.
Dissolve separately in hot water, add together (will create bubbles). Add water and fibre. Boil for 1 hour, steep overnight. Rinse.
Tannins are for lightfastness. The tannin is not strongly attached to the fiber but adding alum bonds it into place. Oak galls (6-10%), myrobalan, tara powder (10%), sumac, pomegranate (10%), quebracho moreno, walnut hulls and cutch all are good tannins. But some also add color. Oak galls and tara powder are clear, light tannins.
### Alum + Soda | Soy milk
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Boil the symplocos leaves for 30 minutes at 80 degrees Celcius until they sink to the bottom of the pot. Add the fibre and simmer for another 60 mins. Let it steep overnight. Rinse the fibre with warm water, it should be slightly yellow now (this will disappear during dyeing).
Another plant that is known to by naturally high in alum is club moss (NL: wolfsklauw).
### Other mordants and tannins
Urine, egg white, blood, ashes, ammonia, chitin, mango bark, aloe vera leaves, cub moss (NL: wolfsklauw) and many more.
Urine, egg white, blood, ashes, ammonia, myrobalan, sumac, walnut hulls, chestnut hulls, rhubarb leaves, chitin, mango bark, aloe vera leaves, cub moss (NL: wolfsklauw) and many more.
There's renewed interest in plant-based mordants rather than metal-based mordants which would always require some kind of mining, disturbing waterways and natural areas. Look for natural *bioaccummulators* of soil metals: the metals naturally occurring in the earth. These plants can live in very acidic environments, symplocos being one of them, but also club moss.
### Iron sulphate
0.25 - 3% WoF (when using powder)
Dissolve in hot water before adding to the mordant bath. Mordant fibres for 45-60 mins, rinse. Iron mordant baths can be used to shift color (cold or hot) multiple times, just dip a dyed swatch into the iron bath until the desired color is achieved.
Iron sulphate is the least polluting after alum and is a waste product. It should be mostly absorbed by the textile so the mordant baths can be discarded safely. But this is hard to say in home dyeing and one can wonder if it's desirable to wear textiles on the body that contain iron sulphate. Although some studies have shown that they are safe, one cannot tell when dyeing DIY. Better option is to invest in different cooking pot (a tin pot, copper pot, aluminium pot, castiron pot). Dyeing in these metal pots will give off a little bit of the metals to boost the dyes, but are all absorbed in the textile. Other heavy metal mordants are not recommended because they have larger ecological impacts.
Iron mordant baths may be discarded in municipal waste systems (down the drain), don't dump directly in nature though. **Safety note:** always wear gloves when using this, wear goggles and a mouth mask when measureing iron sulphate powder, and keep away from pets.
You can make your own iron mordant (called iron liquor) by putting some scrap metals - like old nails - in a glass jar and cover it with 2 parts water an one part white vinegar. This won't be as precise because the amount of iron sulphate increases overtime. Just start with adding a little bit to a pot of water and add more until you achieve the color you want.
Seal with a lid and let it get rusty for 2 weeks. Label it and keep away from pets and kids.
###Process Pictures
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##REFERENCES
-**Title** by Name Name, Title, Place, Date, [link](link).
-**Natuurlijk Verven, Grand Teints** by Jantine Koobs, Textielmuseum Tilburg, 2018: [link](https://textielmuseum.nl/uploads/content/BTME001.pdf)
-**Mordanting with Cow's Milk** by Louise Upshall, *Gumnut Magic*, 2018: [link](https://www.gumnutmagic.com/mordanting-with-cows-milk/)
Ecoprint op Katoen by Nienke Smit, *Verfvirus*, 2015 [link](https://www.verfvirus.nl/2015/08/ecoprint-op-katoen-voorbeitsen.html)
-**Ecoprint op Katoen** by Nienke Smit, *Verfvirus*, 2015 [link](https://www.verfvirus.nl/2015/08/ecoprint-op-katoen-voorbeitsen.html)
Natural Dyes, A Primer for Using Mordant Dyes on Cellulose Fabric, by Kim Eichler Messner (n.d.)
-**Natural Dyes, A Primer for Using Mordant Dyes on Cellulose Fabric** by Kim Eichler Messner (n.d.), *Kim E.M. Quilts*: [link](https://www.kimemquilts.com/s/Kim-E-M-Natural-Dye-Primer.pdf)
-**How to Mordant with Symplocos** by *Botanical Colors*, n.d. [link](https://botanicalcolors.com/botanical-colors-how-tos/how-to-mordant-with-symplocos/)
https://botanicalcolors.com/how-to-mordant/
-**How to Mordant** by Botanical Colors, n.d. [link](https://botanicalcolors.com/how-to-mordant/)
Art and Science of Natural Dyes Principles, Experiments and Results , Joy Boutrup
-**Art and Science of Natural Dyes Principles, Experiments and Results** by Joy Boutrup and Catherine Ellis, Schiffer Publishing, 2018.
Chitin - Another eco-friendly mordant for natural dyes, A. Poornima and A. Sharada Devi, August 2007, [link](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/295368867_Chitin_-_Another_eco-friendly_mordant_for_natural_dyes)
-**Chitin - Another eco-friendly mordant for natural dyes**, by A. Poornima and A. Sharada Devi, *ResearchGate*, August 2007, [link](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/295368867_Chitin_-_Another_eco-friendly_mordant_for_natural_dyes)
-**Dyeing of Wool Fabric Using Natural Dye and Natural Mordant Extracts** by Taame Berhanu Teklemedhin, *Trends in Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology*, Vol 4, Issue 4, 2018: [link](https://crimsonpublishers.com/tteft/fulltext/TTEFT.000593.php)
-**Extraction and Optimization of Natural Dye from Hambo Hambo (Cassia singueana) Plant Used for Coloration of Tanned Leather Materials** by Taame Berhanu and Saminathan Ratnapandian, *Advances in Materials Science and Engineering*, 2017: [link](https://www.hindawi.com/journals/amse/2017/7516409/)
-**A New Approach To Plant-Derived Mordants** by Mel Sweetnam, *Mamie's Schoolhouse*, 2020: [link](https://www.mamiesschoolhouse.com/blogarchive/2020/4/25/a-new-approach-to-plants-as-mordants)
Dyeing of Wool Fabric Using Natural Dye and Natural Mordant Extracts, by Taame Berhanu Teklemedhin, 2018:[link](https://crimsonpublishers.com/tteft/fulltext/TTEFT.000593.php)
-**Global Hyperaccumulator Database** by *SMI CMLR, Center for Mined Land Rehabilitation*,[link](http://hyperaccumulators.smi.uq.edu.au/collection/)
Extraction and Optimization of Natural Dye from Hambo Hambo (Cassia singueana) Plant Used for Coloration of Tanned Leather Materials, by Taame Berhanu and Saminathan Ratnapandian, 2017:[link](https://www.hindawi.com/journals/amse/2017/7516409/)
-**Understanding Mordants** by *Griffin Dyeworks & Fiber Arts*, 2012[link](http://griffindyeworks.com/understanding-mordants/alumtanninalum.html)
