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.env
_site
.DS_Store
image: python:alpine
image: python:3.8-slim
before_script:
- pip install -r requirements.txt
......
# About me
![](images/avatar-photo.jpg)
## My background
I was born in a nice city called..
## Previous work
### Project A
This is an image from an external site:
![This is a caption](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1508873881324-c92a3fc536ba?ixlib=rb-0.3.5&ixid=eyJhcHBfaWQiOjEyMDd9&s=4dd64b8d9512bfc407a50e74baab0e48&auto=format&fit=crop&w=1350&q=80)
While this is an image from the assets/images folder. Never use absolute paths (starting with /) when linking local images, always relative.
![This is another caption](images/sample-photo.jpg)
# 1. State of the art, project management and documentation
This week I worked on defining my final project idea and started to getting used to the documentation process.
This week I didn't really work on defining my final project idea. I've been sick for a few days, so just tried to keep up by doing the assignment for the week and building the documentation structure...
I'm a somewhat familiar with some of the tools used like a bit of github, markdown, terminal, and other tools for version control like Mercurial. So that helped but haven't used them all together in this way. So I had some fun customizing and browsing around.
## Research
"Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum."
This week's research mainly consisted of learning these tools using the tutorials provided and some google. It was nice, I'm liking this way of documenting! I've decided on a way to organize my files and am looking forward to building this documentation in the next few months. Documenting is something I like doing, because it helps me keep the new skills and insights I've gained fresh and *actually* usable. As in: being able to redo things I did in the past. That said, I can get a bit wordy doing it, trying to get all the details in, but it's coming from a good place ;)
> "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum."
> "Consider the possibility of an honest mess" - Co-Star astrology app
## Useful links
- [Jekyll](http://jekyll.org)
- [Google](http://google.com)
- [Markdown](http://markdown.org)
- [Fiore's tutorial](https://vimeo.com/253336757)
- [This tutorial on the class page (especially how to edit the mkdoc :)](https://class.textile-academy.org/tools/tutorials/gitlab/)
- [Getting started with mkdoc.yml file](https://squidfunk.github.io/mkdocs-material/getting-started/#font-family)
## Setting up the SSH key
Tried to rush it and left the default email in by accident. Whoops!
Deleted the key and generated a new one with the terminal commands provided and popped it into the settings in Gitlab, using this tutorial for
[generating an SSH key] (https://gitlab.fabcloud.org/help/ssh/README#generating-a-new-ssh-key-pair)
Also Fiore's tutorial has been very helpful here:
- [Fiore's tutorial](https://vimeo.com/253336757)
\* *I notice I'm becoming one of those people who writes documentation but doesn't explain the steps that already feel "normal" to me. Hmmm. I'll have a think to think what I think about that.*
## OR: push via http and access tokens
Later on I started using my Github Desktop app for a bunch of other stuff and my connection stopped working. I couldn't figure it out so I deleted the repository and cloned it anew over http. This [tutorial](https://itnext.io/how-to-use-github-desktop-with-gitlab-cd4d2de3d104) by Shedrack Akintayo explains how to use access tokens push without having to re-enter your password when pushing over http. Amazeballs, thank you Shedrack!
## Customizing text, fonts, colors in the mkdoc
I customized some basic stuff to change the look of the page. I love the font Karla, we use it for everything where I work, so I'm using it here too. I think you can basically look up any Google Font and use it. I liked the idea of having a special font for code, so I specified one for that as well.
[Find a Google Font here](https://fonts.google.com/?query=karla)
## Code Example
Teal is my favourite color so, I used that for now, I found the name of the color codes here:
[Squidfunk's tutorial](https://squidfunk.github.io/mkdocs-material/getting-started/#color-palette)
Use the three backticks to separate code.
\* *I have to say again: I'm really liking markdown and Gitlab*
Ah yes! I will make a favicon but not right now, so just put the line there and will uncomment it once I've created and uploaded one.
```
// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board
void setup() {
// initialize digital pin LED_BUILTIN as an output.
pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT);
}
// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop() {
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
delay(1000); // wait for a second
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
delay(1000); // wait for a second
}
# This is some of the code I changed in the mkdoc :)
site_name: Loes Bogers
site_description: Loes' Fabricademy documentation
site_url: https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/
repo_url: https://gitlab.fabcloud.org/academany/fabricademy/2020/students/loes.bogers
site_author: Loes Bogers
docs_dir: docs
site_dir: _site
copyright: Copyright 2019 Loes Bogers - Creactive Commons Attribution Non-commercial
theme:
#uncomment line below when you made a favicon lollll
# favicon: 'assets/images/favicon.ico'
name: material
font:
text: 'karla'
code: 'ubuntu mono'
# try other colors https://squidfunk.github.io/mkdocs-material/getting-started/#primary-colors
palette:
primary: "cyan"
accent: "purple"
```
And this is the result! Kaleidoscopic, isn't it...
![](../images/wk1_pageoverview.jpg)*screenshot of the page you are looking at*
## Working offline
Since I'm working on a book project where I'll be using some of these tools as well, I also tried cloning my repository into the GitHub Desktop app (see downloads below).
You need to fetch the URL provided in the back-end of the project using the SSH dropdown (see image). Then I edit my markdown files using Macdown, a nice open-source editor that gives you a preview as you write (without styling though).
![screenshot of the URL to clone the project](../images/wk1_pullingURL.jpg)*screenshot of dashboard*
###Downloads
[Github Desktop app](https://desktop.github.com/) to commit and push to git locally, bypassing the browser (using SSH), and here you can find [MacDown](https://macdown.uranusjr.com/), the markdown editor.
### How it works
It's pretty straightforward, you go find the files locally and them edit them with an editor. And it tells you whether you have any commits that need pulling (when changes were made somewhere else) or pushing (when you make changes locally but haven't updated the master repository yet). Nice and easy! I also loved learning Mercurial on the command line though (forever grateful @Zaerc) I'm used to Brackets from back when I did Fabacademy. [Oh sweet memories from 2015.](https://fabacademy.org/archives/2015/eu/students/bogers.loes/finalproject.html)
But for another project I'll be using MacDown, which gives a nice simultaneous preview! Pretty nice too. Let's see which one I'll end up using.
![screenshot of editing using Macdown](../images/wk1_markdown.jpg)*screenshot of Macdown editor*
### Adding images offline
I really prefer to work with my content offline actually, particularly images. I remember now that images need to be compressed to no more than 100kb, so I have to do that even for a screenshot. I use Photoshop for this and export for web. Which is fine, but it's quite some file hassle because I always forget and then I have to go back in and do it later. It's nicer to do that all locally and commit using the desktop app. At first my images didn't show up at all. I'm wondering if the makers of the templates put a limiter on large images? That would be so clever.
## My first conflict
Yes! I had my first conflicting commit between the remote repository and my local one. How do I resolve this.... on the Github Desktop app you get an error when you want to commit a change that conflicts. Then you can click to open the file. It adds these conflict markers so you can see exactly where the problems are:
```
<<<<<<<, =======, >>>>>>>
```
![](../images/wk1_conflict.jpg)*my conflicting commits!*
Then you keep the code you want to keep, delete the conflicting code and the markers and save the file. [This support page](https://help.github.com/en/articles/resolving-a-merge-conflict-on-github) was helpful. The desktop app recognizes when the conflict is solved and allows you to commit again. Yay!
![](../images/wk1_solved.jpg)*conflicts resolved!*
##State of the art & inspiration
## Inspiration
### Fabricademy graduates
![](https://gitlab.fabcloud.org/academany/fabricademy/2019/students/jessica.stanley/raw/master/docs/images/finalproject/stitchsyth2.gif)*Jessica Stanley's Stitch Synth project, 2019*
**Jessica Stanley's Stitch Synth**
I saw [Jessica's work](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/projects/00final-project/) at the last Fabricademy expo in Amsterdam. Super nicely done.
I also really liked her experiments with tesselation in the Textile as Scaffold week. The slow movements the textile creates are really nice to watch.
And also her voronoi for [computational couture](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/assignments/week07/) are so cool. She printed these shapes on stretchy fabric, making the textile pull itself into a 3D shape.
And the pleat switch and this sensor below. OMG Jessica stop it nowwww I'm totally fangirling your fabricademy page. This makes me think I will really enjoy the electronics work in the next few months.
![](https://media.giphy.com/media/5k0rrSdjXmmQ68mABP/giphy.gif)*Jessica Stanley, 2019*
**Teresa van Twuijver's analog soft sensor**
[Teresa](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/teresa.vantwuijver/assignments/week05/) made this nice soft sensor using smock embroidery. I'd seen a similar thing on kobakant once, wow it's soooooo nice.
![](https://gitlab.fabcloud.org/academany/fabricademy/2019/students/teresa.vantwuijver/raw/master/docs/images/week5_softsensorproto2.gif)*Teresa van Twuijver, 2019*
Her [circular fashion designs](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/teresa.vantwuijver/assignments/week03/) are also quite cool!
**Barbara's Kombucher!**
Really cool idea to make a tool like this [kombucha fiber printer](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/barbara.arteaga/projects/final-project/)
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cuHtJgnv2qU" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
And many many more...
### Go big or go home: drag performers and other style queens
This is something I've been obsessed with for a long time. I think the innovative ways of thinking about the malleability and unstable nature of the body and gender is super interesting and made me fall in love with this art form. I do it myself sometimes too :) No RuPaul quote is lost on me (we're all born naked and the rest is...you know the rest). I'd love to take as many assignments as possible closer toward something that might be applicable in the context of the art of drag to develop into a larger project later. I imagine eco-aware drag could be a very interesting avenue to explore. In the meantime, I'll summarize as: go big, or go home.
**House of Holographic Hoes and Milk X Hana Quist**
A local house who did an amazing show at last year's superball, with over the top LED powered gowns. I mean, I don't really like LED strips so much, especially not in clothing but context IS everything.
Or drag performer Milk in this knitted number by Hana Quist. Oh yes.
![](../images/wk0_drag.jpg)*Left: House of Holographic Hoes at Paradiso's Superball, 2019. Right: Drag performer Milk in a knitted garment by Hana Quist*
**Other fabulous drag performers and style queens**
Such as Aynouk Tan - you can worry about the clothing mountain - or just dress up as one. I think [her thinking and personal style](https://www.aynouktan.com/) are really out there.
![Aynouk Tan](https://aynouktan.com/____impro/1/onewebmedia/10827970_10153943396384659_1941713512951619825_o-2.jpg?etag=%22464ea-58ef9af9%22&sourceContentType=image%2Fjpeg&ignoreAspectRatio&resize=700,467)*Aynouk Tan with a mic and smiling lady in black*
**I bow to Valeska Jasso Collado for her graduation collection**
These theatrical garments have an amazing genderclowning vibe about them, they remind me of [1920s Bauhaus costumes](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/U4wEGXhe1duKVyacjE6z3KsIFZg=/0x0:1000x645/1200x800/filters:focal(420x243:580x403)/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/57322995/escola_bauhaus.0.0.jpg)and I love it! She folded latex-covered foam into [geometric garments](https://www.dezeen.com/2014/06/09/valeska-jasso-collado-westminster-fashion-collection/).
![](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/3f/fd/40/3ffd409a341499881843557a29ac5b6f.jpg)*image by Valeska Jasso Colado*
### Textile artists/designers/upcyclists/hackers
![](../images/wk0_designinspiration.jpg)
*Images: Golden Joinery (image by Droog) in the background, Justyna Wolodkiewicz' embellishments (left) and Anya Hindmarch's embellished skirt (image by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images Europe)*
**[Golden Joinery](http://goldenjoinery.com/#about) or kintsugi for clothing, by Painted Series** is a really nice example of repair as a design strategy that adds value to used things.
I really enjoy the hectic **embellishments by Justyna Wolodkiewicz** and the one on the **pink skirt by Anya Hindmarch** There's loads out there. One reason why I like this is because I imagine picking cleverly from waste materials will allow for a lot of cool designs. They can also be combined with electronics perhaps? I really like the 3D textures you can add with this.
**Coral Love Stories by Kasia Molga (and Erik Overmeire)** below is such a beautiful combination of fashion and electronics and thermochromic pigments. It's very subtle, unlike some other sources of inspiration but I just think this is beautifully done and tells an important story about shringking coral reefs.
<div style="padding:56.25% 0 0 0;position:relative;"><iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/211299558?color=00d554&byline=0&portrait=0" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:100%;height:100%;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><script src="https://player.vimeo.com/api/player.js"></script>*Coral Love Story by Kasia Molga (with Erik Overmeire and Ricardo O'Nascimento)*
And let's not forget the amazing experiments and documentation done by **[Plusea on the Kobakant How to Get What You Want page](https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/)**, such as this beardy sway sensor....*bows*.
![](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47790755952_9b33dd38fa.jpg)
Last but not least, a shop! **[Mooizooi in Haarlem](https://mooizooi.org/)!** This is a social enterprise that collects waste materials from industry, sort it by color, and sell it for almost nothing. I'd love to stop by there and use only this leftover material, for example to make the embellishments like the ones below.
**My own students who have inspired me!**
The students I get to know during the minor Makers Lab continue to inspire, teach and challenge(!) me loads. Some of their experiments were really great!
![](../images/wk0_studentwork.jpg)
Top left is Geert Lens' textile touchscreen entirely made from scratch (2018). He developed a ropemaker to insulate conductive thread, a loom to make the textile, and of course programmed the sensor himself.
Geert also made this glove (bottom left) that vibrates when it senses peaks in electromagnetic fields, such as when a subway train pulls out of a station (together with Anton Westin and Jaap Spruitenburg 2018). The wanted to explore invisible signals in the city and found that some people are extremely sensitive to EMFs, whereas most of us aren't even aware of them.
## Gallery
Melissa de Bie and Elisa van der Burg's and bioplastics experiments to research how they could make the gorgeous tote bag in 2019 (middle).
![](../images/sample-photo.jpg)
Kristin Jakubek & Frida Eriksson's skin sensor (with some help of Geert) from 2018 (top right).
## Video
Geert's coils that pick up some residue energy from RFID scanners, just enough to light up an LED (bottom right).
### From Vimeo
### Books
* Radical Matter: Rethinking Materials for a Sustainable Future by Kate Franklin
* Zeroes and Ones by Sadie Plant
* Fray by Julia Bryan-Wilson
* Folding Techniques for Designers From Sheet to Form by Paul Jackson
* Supersurfaces" Folding as Method of Generating Forms for Architecture, Products and Fashion by Sophia Vyzoviti
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/10048961" width="640" height="480" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p><a href="https://vimeo.com/10048961">Sound Waves</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/radarboy">George Gally (Radarboy)</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
That's it for now!
### From Youtube
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jjNgJFemlC4" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
## 3D Models
<div class="sketchfab-embed-wrapper"><iframe width="640" height="480" src="https://sketchfab.com/models/658c8f8a2f3042c3ad7bdedd83f1c915/embed" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen; vr" mozallowfullscreen="true" webkitallowfullscreen="true"></iframe>
<p style="font-size: 13px; font-weight: normal; margin: 5px; color: #4A4A4A;">
<a href="https://sketchfab.com/models/658c8f8a2f3042c3ad7bdedd83f1c915?utm_medium=embed&utm_source=website&utm_campaign=share-popup" target="_blank" style="font-weight: bold; color: #1CAAD9;">Dita&#39;s Gown</a>
by <a href="https://sketchfab.com/francisbitontistudio?utm_medium=embed&utm_source=website&utm_campaign=share-popup" target="_blank" style="font-weight: bold; color: #1CAAD9;">Francis Bitonti Studio</a>
on <a href="https://sketchfab.com?utm_medium=embed&utm_source=website&utm_campaign=share-popup" target="_blank" style="font-weight: bold; color: #1CAAD9;">Sketchfab</a>
</p>
</div>
\ No newline at end of file
This diff is collapsed.
# 3. Circular fashion
![](../images/wk3final1.jpg)<br>
*One of the final designs made with the modules, Loes Bogers, 2019*
##Assignment must-haves
1. Zero waste! Design on a grid if you want to do this. See Jessica Stanley's [example.](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/assignments/week03/)
2. Make it modular: same module should enable the creation of many different garments
3. Create a garment
4. Take nice pictures
4. Upload .dxf files
4. Add design to opencircularfashion website.
**Personal must-haves**
1. Volume!
1. Color!
1. A big garment!
**Cecilia's Tips and tricks**
* There should be a logic to this to I guess. Write it up, document it REAAAAAAALLY well. Test your instructions with someone else.
* Make a "pattern", like a knitting pattern.
* To make a garment: design the modules into the dress pattern, you can design finished edges.
* Rhino can make nice arrays
* Grid: triangle, hexagon, square? This determines your structure.
* Use decorative elements: what do you want it to look like?
* Material: determines width of cuts and arrows.
## Inspiration
###Drag aesthetic of Kimchi and Trixie Mattel
![](../images/wk03_kimchi.jpg)
![](../images/wk03_trixie.jpg)
Here are two of my fav drag queens who featured on RuPaul's Drag Race: Kimchi (top) and Trixie Mattel (bottom), and Violet Chachki (bottom right), who is probably not my favourite, but this pink tassled ensembluh is pretty amazing.
What I love love love about Kimchi is her fearless choice of geometric garments. I mean she goes big and chunky and pulls it off so well. I think she self-tailors almost all of it too. And the color palette with the pastels, especially the minty green with pink. It's a win.
Trixie on the other hand, way less avant-garde and instead more country-barbie on steroids just knows her hot pinks and I love how she uses big shoulders and jackets for added curv and swerv. She makes ugly even uglier: utmost respect. I'm all for the camp.
![](../images/wk03_darwinklaar.jpg)<br>
*Images by Studio Brak, taken from [Klaar's instagram](https://www.instagram.com/darwinklaar/)*
Some inspiration after-the-fact came from Paulina (thank you!!!) whose friend Darvin Klaar designed these gorgeous outfits for his graduation project. Love.
###Technical inspiration
The very very basic technique of [increasing and decreasing](https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=753&type_id=S) like is done in crochet to gradually increase the width of the grid you are crocheting.
This church I pass by everyday actually has a gorgeous pattern! The way it goes from small elements to bigger ones is also a way to increase and decrease in width. One of the things I'd like to do.
![](../images/wk03_church.jpg)<br>
*The church I pass by every day, Loes Bogers*
**Tesselation and interlocking inspiration**
* See documentation of of [Jessica stanley](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/assignments/week03/) from last year: it's male/female AND zero waste.
* You can encode messages in the textile too! Eg. Jessica's binary.
* [Rei Kabakubo-Comme des Garcons worn by Rihanna](https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/2017-met-gala-comme-des-garcons-red-carpet-rihanna/all). OMG yes.
* [Post-Couture Antwerp](https://www.postcouture.cc/). Look at their double interlocks. It helps to make things really wearable. Like a tiewrap.
* [Ernst Heinrich Häckel's biological drawings](http://www.openculture.com/2017/11/ernst-haeckels-sublime-drawings-of-flora-and-fauna.html)!
![](../images/wk03_interlockinginspi.jpg)
*Other beauties by (left to right): Katie Roberts-Wood, Matija Cop and Stephane Rolland AW16 Haute Couture*
**Personal preferences:**
* Volume volume volume, I want big shapes
* zero waste all the way, using waste stream of lab
* semi-intuitive assembling and modeling on the body
* modules should enable fast improvising, module should give lots of options to play, like legos! But still have a nice look to it of course.
**Personal dislikes**
* net-like structures
* crazy tiny pieces (horror assembling)
* very thick structures that need a lot of material to cover a small area
## Research
![](../images/wk03_paperprototyping.jpg)
*Lots of sketches and try-outs, Loes Bogers*
**Sketching and paper prototyping**
I tried out a bunch of things in paper and was immediately trying to make even the paper version go 3D, by finding options to increase width and decrease width, like you can do with crochet for example. Somewhat successful, definitely settled my ambition to go for volume. This phase was really necessary to wrap my head around the technique, and the paramaters to think about.
<br>
![](../images/wk03_ceciexplains.jpg)<br>
*Cecilia's explanation of making a module in Rhino :)*
## Test 1: keep it simple, explore materials
I designed a very simple module first to just understand what playing with assembling already gives me without making the design more complex. Start simple, expand:
![](../images/wk03_design1.jpg)<br>
*The first design: rectangles with both slots and tabs for each direction*
**Same module, different materials**
I tested my basic square module with some materials from the waste stream at our university lab, like swatches left behind by students, and a foam we use for thermoforming:
* *denim (100/22)* - nice dark blue and light blue using inside and outside, frayed edges, hard to assemble!!! Lies flat.
* *dense felt (100/22)* (white) - gave brown burn marks, I don't like that. Lies flat.
* *loose felt (100/22)* (salmon) - looks nice, feel nice, really hard to assemble and easy to tear apart. Lies flat.
* *fake leather (100/22)* (green) - keeps integrity very nicely! Lies very flat, few burn marks, nice clean cut, totally keeps its shape, falls heavy down the lines of the body. Can be very nice.
* *organza (100/12)* (hot pink) - love the color, love the transparency effect. Hate how much it frays during handling. This is not for me at all. Also cutting at a diagonal didn't solve this. I dont' have a high pain threshold for fraying fabric.
![](../images/wk03_playing.jpg)<br>
*Playing and assembling with the same module cut from different materials, Loes Bogers*
**Oh a potential winner!**
* *the EVA foam (100/22) or Ethylene-vinyl acetate* - this is thermoformable hobby foam - a property that could be nice to explore later too - and it's alive! Even using plan rectangles it starts to curve a bit, and playing with directions, alternating between slotting the tabs in from the back or front already gives curves, and creates tubes shapes. Greaaaat!!!! It also feels very nice on the skin. It's a bit stinky to cut, and there's slight burning but I can try reduce it with the settings. The tabs do change shape a little when manipulating it, but it also adds a nice irregularity to the computational vibe I guess? I can live with it. It can stand some diffuse strain, but not pulling hard at one point.
![](../images/wk03_swatches2.jpg)<br>
*Testing with EVA foam and loose felt, Loes Bogers*
## Test 2: Increasing and decreasing
For the second tests I wanted to continue with the fake leather and foam and try to make modules that I can use to increase and decrease to make nice shapes around the body. I took the church as inspiration but went for a somewhat simpler diamond shape.
![](../images/wk03_design2.jpg)<br>
*The second design, increasing in height, Loes Bogers*
I started with only one manipulation: by only increasing the size of the module on one axis and keeping the other the same. I cut it and just started playing with it. I thought changing both the x AND Y axes could be the next step. But then a happy accident happened...
![](../images/wk03_tests.jpg)<br>
*Swatches: (clockwise) denim outside and inside of cloth, loose felt, fake leather, EVA foam (white and pink). The white, pink and green swatch are cut in the second iteration of the design, you can see how they start curving. Loes Bogers*
That step never came! I unintentionally started rotating the pieces, thereby accidentally creating increase on the x-axis AND the y-axis, which magically worked out really well!
![](../images/wk03_1module_3options.jpg)
*Explanation of what happened and how it accidentally has some kind of mathematical logic to it...???*
**Laser tricks**
* pieces flying away? Turn the screw of the laser head to reduce the airflow from the blower in the laser head (at my lab at work). Perfection, no fire. Do not try this without consulting your lab manager
* pieces flying away? Put a piece of cardboard under your material, spray it generously with water, and stick you fabric on (temporarily).
* Don't use speed 400 for small designs, it never catches up to speed so you're using pseudo settings. Test cut with a module, not a 10mmx10mm square.
**Design tricks**
* Path finder > Outline to take out double lines. You save yourself laser time but it's also harder to select single shapes because they the logic of the lines changes. Only do with final files.
* Great way to make arrays that transform along the way (scaling and moving): in the menu bar: Effect - Distort & Transform - Transform tool. Also see [this tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVQPzMRGwl0), by Project Lady (amazinggggg name btw) for further instructions on adding organic-looking warps after. Did not get to it for now but would be very interesting to play with.
![](../images/wk03_applications.jpg)<br>
*No shortage on ideas: a veil comb, a bikini, part of a sleeve*
## Redesigning the module
After assessing all my swatches carefully, I made some decisions for the next iteration.
1. use mathematical formula instead of intuition: 122% on y 2. decided on no rounded corners because: zero waste
3. settled on design with 2x slots and 2x tabs (looks nicer without additional cuts that remain unused. I tried this with the pink foam already (see pics)
4. made half modules for finishing seams. 5. made nr 5 a square because difference impossible to see by eye
6. only using 1-8 so left out 9 and 10
7. scaled the size of the set so that the nr 5 is 40x40mm for ease and speed of cutting and assembling an entire garment. The smaller piece looked beautiful but is very fragile and hard to assemble.
8. increased slot size by 10% due to material thickness (will test first)
**Ordering material** I ordered 4 metres of pink 2mm EVA foam (90cm width) to make sure I have enough for the jacket. In the future I would like to work only with leftovers generated in our lab however. We use these sheets for the vacuum thermoforming machine. We cut the big sheets into smaller ones that fit the size of the vacuum window but there's always a lot of waste that is offered as free material for students. We only had enough for testing at the moment though, not for an entire garment. I ordered at Marion Hoop Design's [Webshop](https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=marion+hoop+design+foam+fuchsia). Boerenbonthal used to have it but it's gone out of their collection. Hoop is currently one of few retailers to stock this material.
My design did not arrive on time! Mawwww, I didn't manage to finish on time but will catch up later. I cut up the material I had left and just started making shapes with it.
![Design process GIF, Loes Bogers](https://i.imgur.com/kY7ReZt.gif)
*A GIF overview of all the design steps for future reference*
## Making a plan for assembly... hmmm
I was thinking of making a pink bomber jacket - or similar - because it has nice round shapes but still accentuates the smaller parts of the body like wrists and waist. So lots of curves and swerves. But I changed my mind and want to model somewhat intuitively, and explore what the material wants to do. So the design is yet to be decided.
## Test 3: hopefully final!
**Set orientation**
I was also using pieces in all directions, front, back, everything. I had to really choose and order and now every piece has one front and one top, and if it's rotated or turned, it won't work. The tabs are left and up, the slots bottom and right.
**Machine tricks and settings**
I also gave RGB red to the outline, leaving the inner cut lines black. I kept having issues with pieces flying away and this is just the best option in the end: separate inner and outer lines of the module over two layers that are cut separately, starting with the inner lines.
Settings in LaserWork:
* \> cut optimize > then tick *inside to outside, find cutting pot*, and *order of layer*.
* Speed 150, power 25
* Delete overlap with a tolerance up to 0.5 mm
**Zero waste?**
Not entirely, because of the fact that I have 7 pieces. I cannot nest them seamlessly. But it's pretty darn close. I made the cutfile the size of the pieces that are pre-cut at my lab (for use in another machine). It comes on a roll of 90cm wide but that's much harder to keep flat, and also it won't be what I have in the future if I want to create more modules with waste materials.
![](../images/wk03_cutfile.jpg)<br>
*Cutfile for the six modules, Loes Bogers*
![](../images/wk3basket.jpg) Round and round we go, tinkering with the modules, Loes Bogers, 2019.
## Assembling
In the end I tinkered a lot with the modules to see how I could combine them to create various shapes. I made big sheets combining different modules, by going bigger or smaller per row to understand what kind of shapes it would create. I didn't quite realize how long it was going to take me to create a big surface, and I ran out of material so I settled on a garment I could make with the amount of modules I'd cut.
**The mad hatter**
I quite liked the crazy crowns and hats that came out but thought they were really a bit to straight, considering the work I'd put in to try make curves and 3D shapes.
![](https://media.giphy.com/media/S8O6BQcPNN0I9LEkGj/giphy.gif)<br>*Mad hatter experiments with the modules, Loes Bogers, 2020*
**Shoulder piece/choker/headpiece in one**
I thought that the curvy shape it was making could work really nicely as a sort of necklace/choker/harness that follows the curves of my neck and shoulders. And it turned out it also works as a headpiece. Very maleficents.
![](https://media.giphy.com/media/Lnbx3LU39qhjw68tcE/giphy.gif) <br> *Option 3: a maleficent inspired headpiece, Loes Bogers, 2019*
## The not-so-ultimate ikea guide to DIY this
### Design files
To make this piece you need to cut these amounts of modules 3-6 (modules 1-2 are too small and fragile, module 7 is a bit too big for this), or more/less depending on your size. I'm a size UK10, EUR38.
| Row | Amount | Module |
|-----|-----------------|---------|
| 1 | 21x | module 3 |
| 2 | 21x | module 3 |
| 3 | 21x | module 4 |
| 4 | 21x | module 4 (turned 90 degrees counter clockwise) |
| 5 | 21x | module 5 (orientation like row 4) |
| 6 | 21x | module 6 (orientation like row 5) |
| 7 | 21x | module 6 (orientation like row 5) |
Find the .ai design files [here](../files/wk03_modules.ai). These were cut with the settings speed 150, power 25.
![](https://media.giphy.com/media/WtVPTtZZzHF7xLk7tx/giphy.gif)<br>*option 1 and 2: a shoulder piece or a choker, Loes Bogers, 2020*
### How-to
The design for the choker, the shoulder piece and the head piece are all the same. Starting from the left ear, you want to start with a row of 21 x module 3, and then to that line start attaching the other modules following the table above.
For a headpiece you might want to mount it on a plastic head band/tiara, or secure it to your hair or wig with bobby pins.
![](../images/wk3howto.jpg)
## Tutorial by Cecilia
**Source of inspi that are not interlocking textiles**
Ceci suggested to look for inspiration outside the pinterest board. Don't look at modules! Get inspired by literally anything else, nature, armours, any system with structure. We thought of different things, like:
* Armours
* Moroccan architecture
* Mandalas
* Snowflakes
* Portuguese tile patterns
* Architectural structures (yes! this is what I got :))
* indonesian bone carving
* kaleidoscopes!
**How to keep it flat**
* You can make a *male* and a *female* (I prefer tab and slot!), or male/female at the same time. You can also make three different elements
* Think in *directions* (3, eg. triangle, 4 eg rectangle, or 8 eg star.
* By creating *excess*, material sticking out you can create dimeanions. But that's sort of decorative 3D, not structure.
**How to go 3D**
Real 3D is always done with triangulation. The shape doesn't really matter, the shape of the *centerpart* is what determines #directions and ways of interlocking. Everything outside the centershape is excess and decoration.
![](../images/wk03_ceciexplains2.jpg)<br>
*Image of flipover sheet with Cecilia's explanation*
You can use the edges of the center shape, or the corners. Think also about playing with material properties like: colors patterns, transparency, combining thicker and thinner textile. Play with different sizes of the modules. You can also layer up if your holes permit!
You can use leather, felt etc, rigid materials. But also organza and thinner matterials *can work* can have led to beautiful results. The key is playing around with paper and test cuts. There's not really rules for it.
Also think of creating *empty space*! Don't succumb to horror vacui, the empty spaces will give room for options and add-ons.
And lastly, also think about *movement*, loose parts can move when you choose the right material, and have a garment really flow.
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# 8. Computational couture
This week I produced some printed results, but I mainly spent a lot of time documenting what I learned from the Grasshopper tutorials I did, to build up a vocabulary or archive of useful *clusters* that represent a functionality or method. A bit like a function in programming I guess? Once I have a good overview of these it will be a bit easier to start doing my own designs/scripts by using them as building blocks. Screenshots of these annotated blocks allow me to quickly look at how stuff is done without having to go all the way into Rhino & Grasshopper (it gets a bit slow :D)
**"Tangible" Results**
Besides the documentation below, I also tried out some designs by printing them on textile. I worked with the image sampler to create some shallow surfaces consisting of separate geometries. They would fall apart if printed in the usual way, but printing them on textile holds them together. Sizing is a bit of a trial and error still. These samples are useful to try out how small you can go without elements just falling off. I printed these with an Ultimaker 3, using PLA, and Cura as a slicer.
![](../images/wk08_printtest1.jpg)*First test on organza looking promising at first, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_printtest2.jpg)*3D texture on velour/velveteen, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_printtest4.jpg)*Some truchettiles on velour/velveteen (right) and lycra (left), a bit too thick for my taste, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Things I can think now that I've tried making a few of these**
* Thin, single layer lines on velour/velveteen are so nice! Go nozzlesize (0.4mm) in the design and extrude the minimum (0.1mm) for standard setting print in Ultimaker.
![](../images/wk08_printtest9.jpg)*Not stretching the fabric out is a mess (left), single thin lines on velour/velveteen are beautiful though! (right), Loes Bogers, 2019*
* Very small dots jump off like crazy! Don't do very small single dots
* One layer of PLA is flexible, but it gets rigid after that real quick. If you design a relatively dense patterns I'd probably not make it higher than 1 mm for big chunks at a time.
* Could you print interlocking elements onto textile to sculpt garments?
* Grid-like structures give interesting rigid parts but need to have a function, otherwise it's just, well, hard.
* Covering the print bed with double sided tape helps prevent the textile from moving around and being dragged by the nozzle.
![](../images/wk08_printtest10.jpg)*Double sided tape on the bed, to keep the textiles from moving around, Tesa tape, Loes Bogers, 2019*
* Lycra needs to be fully tensed (stretched as for as possible), or the printer nozzle goes on a date with the textile. We do not want.
* Single lines on thin stretchy lycra are a bit ugly in my sample but I think they could potentially be interesting to give textures/frills.
* Organza is amazing, pink is amazing. You're perfect, never change.
* It would be nice to be able to turn off the skirt line (outside design, the printer adds this). Check out how.
* Printers just don't do small intricate objects all too well, so be aware.
![](../images/wk08_printtest6.jpg)*These came jumping off, too small, I kind of like what the white line is doing curling up the lycra on the left though, Loes Bogers, 2019*
* Stopping a print halfway sounds like a good idea, but you don't get a full shell unless it runs until the end. You don't really want to see infill I suppose. Unless you do, of course.
* Scaling after the fact in the slicer software seems like a good idea too. But thin lines will get thick if you scale up and vice versa. Your working parametric now, Lucy goosey, just push a few sliders and do things at their proper size ;-)
* The Ultimaker 3 does an automatic leveling sequence to check if the bed is level and even. It does not want to have textile stuck on top of the bed. Luckily, the PRUSA printer, the ultimaker 2+ and 2+ extended can be fooled.
* Slowing down the print speed to 50% helps create better adhesion to the fabric, and make nicer lines with less dragging.
![](../images/wk08_printtest8.jpg)*Trying out the grid deformation designs (with tensors technique, see below), slowing down the speed of the printer gave much better adhesion (right), only printing one layer keeps the textile very flexible, Loes Bogers, 2019*
##Tutorial time
Designing parametrically takes quite a different shift in thinking about shapes and designing. I have done simple parametric design using Eagle (for electronics production), Processing and very basic parametric 3D design using Fusion360. Rhino+Grasshopper definitely allows for super beautiful architectural forms and patterns. But I found out quickly that it's quite hard because it takes quite an abstract mathematical approach to shapes and relationships. This doesn't come naturally per se, so I decided to do loads of tutorials to get a grip on it and maybe tweak a few to understand the design to fabrication process.
**Plug-ins and user objects**
Get your plugin on here: [Food4Rhino](https://www.food4rhino.com/)
I used bifocals as recommended by Eugenio.
And also used the *remap+* user object that is used a lot by the Parametric House guy.
###Tutorials with Eugenio Bettucchi (Noumena)
Eugenio guided us through some basics in Grasshopper, such as the interface, using fields with attractors and repulsors and all sorts of components and useful methods to link things together.
* [Tutorial 1](https://vimeo.com/372876664)
* [Tutorial 2](https://vimeo.com/372895793)
* [Tutorial 3](https://vimeo.com/373176432)
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EexonaUZhxs?rel=0&amp;controls=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JnrGAdoXsy4?rel=0&amp;controls=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/179EzWVsEAY?rel=0&amp;controls=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rufBrcaMdgI?rel=0&amp;controls=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
###Tutorials by Parametric House
I also enjoyed a lot the tutorials by Parametric House! They don't just show how to build up a design, but also explain the logics behind it, which is reaaaally helpful at this beginners stage. I saved them in a [Youtube Playlist](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXJnjBsCdBxHFOV1te8BiZnfz9LF7mpHT) for later reference.
**Rotating curve**
Pretty nice beginner tutorial this one [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXYMQh1Z_r4&list=PLXJnjBsCdBxHFOV1te8BiZnfz9LF7mpHT&index=9&t=0s).
![](../images/wk08_rotatingcurves1.jpg)*Rotating curves, step one, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_rotatingcurves2.jpg)*Rotating curves, step two, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_rotatingcurves3.jpg)*Rotating curves, step three, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_rotatingcurves4.jpg)*Rotating curves, step four: ***an important one!*** Offset, merge, loft, extrude, Loes Bogers, 2019*
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UIfnxwnrKa0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
*And the tutorial in action on my laptop! Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Geometric Pattern**
[This tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_bZJjkkkG8&list=PLXJnjBsCdBxHFOV1te8BiZnfz9LF7mpHT&index=3&t=0s) was great for creating tile-like patterns like the one I made below. I was not successfull in creating a printable design yet! I have to study the parameters a little better to understand how I can avoid making crazy intersecting lines and end up with curves that an be offset and extruded. But good start and lots of playing around.
![](../images/wk08_prusasaysno.jpg)*Some other examples I made. Looking really cool, but Prusa slicer says no. Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Truchet tiles**
[This Truchet Tiles tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIc7a2mectY&list=PLXJnjBsCdBxHFOV1te8BiZnfz9LF7mpHT&index=4&t=0s) was also a super nice one.
![](../images/wk08_truchettilestutorial.jpg)*Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_truchettiles1.jpg)*Cluster to create a random pattern in a grid, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_truchettiles2.jpg)*Producing a pattern that can be created for each cell, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_dispatch.gif)*Switching between modes, Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../images/wk08_truchettiles5.jpg)*Exploding cells and using the segments to define parameters for curves, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_truchettiles6.jpg)*And another version of join curves offset, loft, extrude, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Pattern using Booleans & Dispatch**
[This one here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cs2YzNyQuiU&list=PLXJnjBsCdBxHFOV1te8BiZnfz9LF7mpHT&index=5&t=0s) explains an easy way to generate patterns using **dispatch** and **booleans**. Here's the overview, and below a video of some slider action:
![](../images/wk08_dispatch_genepool.jpg)*Studying and annotating the dispatch tutorial by Parametric House on Youtube, Loes Bogers, 2019*
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LehVgqH19bM?rel=0&amp;controls=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
**Graft, Flatten, Simplify, Parametrize**
You have to do quite some data management to organize and merge lists and groups of data well in a way that can be translated to geometry but this is so abstract, it's not easy to understand the why and how. This video does a great job at exaplaining why and when you should use these.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-JRWoTzI9Co" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Here it is also explained in a tutorial file I made following the lecture by Eugenio, that shows the difference in a different way.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vYnLqIBnE2E?rel=0&amp;controls=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
**MD Slider**
I find the MD slider very useful! You can use it to represent an area or surface in percentages (x: 0 to 1 and y: 0 to 1), which is also referred to as UV values. Oki cool. Some components only take UV values like that (so not absolute points relative to an origin, but points relative to the size of an area expressed in percentage. The image sampler also uses UV values for example.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uEh8DaA5X_I" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
**Image sampler**
This is an [image sampler tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RvgvPw6kxo&list=PLXJnjBsCdBxHFOV1te8BiZnfz9LF7mpHT&index=11&t=0s) that allows you to use simple images to create geometry. I used this to print some of my samples.
![](../images/wk08_imagesampler4.jpg)*Part 1 of the clusters used for image sampling: using Reparametrize, UV Values, MD slider, and custom preview and remap+, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_imagesampler5.jpg)*And this is part 2, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_imagesampler6.jpg)*Using the grayscale image to make a 3D shape, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_imagesampler1.jpg)*Trying out a different image, and this time making cones, part one, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_imagesampler2.jpg)*and part two, Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_imagesampler3.jpg)*Creating a pattern of truncated cones, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Substrate**
I made some architectural shapes on a surface following this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlRgjS7R8pg
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_W5pJIH00DE" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
![](../images/wk08_substrate.jpg)*The clusters, note the one on the bottom right, to select elements from a large group, Loes Bogers, 2019*
**Tensors**
I also did a mute tutorial (much less informative for sure!) but still got some interesting results and prints out of this one. [Grid Distortion in Grasshopper using Tensors] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PY4Byucrcpw) by Geometry Overload on Youtube.
![](../images/wk08_tensors1.jpg)*Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_tensors2.jpg)*Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_tensors3.jpg)*Loes Bogers, 2019*
![](../images/wk08_tensors4.jpg)*Loes Bogers, 2019*
##Designing for the 3D printer
The main techniques I see coming back in most tutorials. For future reference. I see different things happening with the data management so have to study that a bit more.
![](../images/wk08_loft_extrude1.jpg)*A way to create solids from curves, Loes Bogers, 2019*
There's many more techniques to do it depending on how you're constructing it I think. But this works, also the one below. Sometimes capping surfaces helps. Sometimes it gets real messy with offsets though...
![](../images/wk08_loft_extrude2.jpg)*And another way to create solids from curves, Loes Bogers, 2019*
##Inspiration
https://youreshape.io/fold-the-interfashionality/
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=paneling+tools+grasshopper
https://discourse.mcneel.com/t/new-quadremesh-command/85601
http://www.iaacblog.com/programs/fabricflation-_-structuring-textile-techniques/
http://www.co-de-it.com/wordpress/informed-flexible-matter.html
https://vimeo.com/299603461?fbclid=IwAR3DAIucdoxKruKTUdKozmeb14g2tdqWu2RUyt8FYzi2Z6O4GVDm0NtQGTM
**Auxetic structures and metastructures**
You can cleverly engineer materials so the change states in a way. Oh that is so cool! Bea found a file somewhere from somebody who made them. I'd like to explore this further. Especially for textiles it's interesting because they can really shift shape and SIZE!
[This article](https://issuu.com/danielvr81/docs/out_of_plane_pages_09.14.2015) describes some of the process behind developing the designs for these, and the theory. A bit dense but very interesting ideas there. I wish I had spent more time studying math and physics though, if only then I'd known how interesting the applications of such knowledge would be!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dVge8FHcIbI" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
![](http://fab.academany.org/2018/labs/fablabulb/img/ga_digital_mechanics/bistable_metamaterial-1.png)*Bistable auxetics - squared building block and unit cell in the undeformed and stretched state. [Rafsanjani, Extreme Mechanics Letters, 2016](https://arxiv.org/pdf/1612.05988.pdf).*
Amazing work done last year at Fabricademy here:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IFIpsXHsGm0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
##Lecture notes
What is computational design? A series of [automated] instruction carried out in a specific order (also definition of *scripting*). Hmmm this is debatable if you ask somebody with a humanities background.
Alberti: instructions for a building. Forms into numbers and instructions forfabrication.
Deleuze describes Cache's objectile ranks. See also, Mario Carpo's "The Alphabet and the Algorithm".
The capacity to produce variety.
**Workflows**
1. design through parameters.
2. loops and recursivity: output is result of a number of iterations over a duration of time
3. agent based design
4. CFD,eg Wearpure.tech, co2 absorbing garment
4. physics simulation
4. structural analysis: knowing where tension etc is will affect aesthetics and form
4. optimization of materials
4. evolutionary solver
**Sectors of application**
* fashion
* architecture
* interior design
* installations
integration of machine protocol AND design actions. Like the dress that is printed in one piece in a fold, but that unfolds into a large dress once it's produced.
Anywhere where it's nice to produce variety by controlling parameters. Connection between form and function gets a whole new dimension here. Whoa.
**Inspiration**
Nervous System
Conditional design - Luna Maurer etc
marey'S studies (time)
Wearpure project from WAAG: adding powder to material so it absorbs co2. Optimized to increase absorbtion of air by simulating. Then 3D printing filament onto textile.
Behnaz Farahi - http://behnazfarahi.com/caress-of-the-gaze/
**Why Grasshopper?**
Because it doesn't require programming or scripting knowledge to make generative algorithms. Allows designers to do it.
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# 11. Implications and applications
>Our lives are henged round with systems of classification, limned by standard formats, prescriptions, and objects. Enter a modern home an you are surrounded by standards and categories spanning the color of paint on the walls and in the fabric of the furniture, the types of wires strung to appliances, the codes in the building permits allowing the kitchen sink to be properly plumbed and the walls to be adequately fireproofed. Ignore these forms at your peril – as a building owner, be sued by irate tenants; as an inspector, risk malpractice suits denying your proper application of the ideal to the case at hand; as a parent, risk toxic paint threatening your children. To classify is human.
>
> – Bowker & Star, *Sorting Things Out: Clasification and its Consequences*, 2000: p. 1
## Lost in Material Archives
<iframe src="https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/e/2PACX-1vSkdPoDWi5P-JfrYTUDtJelboAx5EKclvjIxfGMPSLR_QhpJwobThQY6XcrvoG9nlWe-opwY5jTLvgZ/embed?start=false&loop=false&delayms=15000" frameborder="0" width="960" height="749" allowfullscreen="true" mozallowfullscreen="true" webkitallowfullscreen="true"></iframe>
## References
Bowker, G. and Star, S. L., *Sorting Things Out: Classification and Its Consequences*, Cambridge/London, MIT Press: 2000 (1999).
Dekker, A. (ed.) *Lost and Living (in) Archives: Collectively Shaping New Memories*, Amsterdam, Valiz: 2017.
Derrida, J. *Archive Fever: A Freudian Impression*. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1996 (1995).
Lévi-Strauss, C. *The Raw and the Cooked* [Le Cru et le Cuit, 1964]. Chicago: Chicago University press, 1969.
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