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## Tutorial by Cecilia
Look at interlocking textiles
**Source of inspi that are not interlocking textiles**
Armours
Ceci suggested to look for inspiration outside the pinterest board. Don't look at modules! Get inspired by literally anything else, nature, armours, any system with structure. We thought of different things, like:
Moroccan architecture
* Armours
* Moroccan architecture
* Mandalas
* Snowflakes
* Portuguese tile patterns
* Architectural structures (yes! this is what I got :))
* indonesian bone carving
* kaleidoscopes!
Mandalas
Snowflakes
**How to keep it flat**
Portuguese tile patterns
* You can make a *male* and a *female* (I prefer tab and slot!), or male/female at the same time. You can also make three different elements
* Think in *directions* (3, eg. triangle, 4 eg rectangle, or 8 eg star.
* By creating *excess*, material sticking out you can create dimeanions. But that's sort of decorative 3D, not structure.
Architectural structures
**How to go 3D**
indonesian bone carving
Real 3D is always done with triangulation. The shape doesn't really matter, the shape of the *centerpart* is what determines #directions and ways of interlocking. Everything outside the centershape is excess and decoration.
kaleidoscope!
![]()
*Image of flipover sheet. Puzzling indeed*
You can use the edges of the center shape, or the corners. Think also about playing with material properties like: colors patterns, transparency, combining thicker and thinner textile. Play with different sizes of the modules. You can also layer up if your holes permit!
KEEPING IT FLAT
You can use leather, felt etc, rigid materials. But also organza and thinner matterials *can work* can have led to beautiful results. The key is playing around with paper and test cuts. There's not really rules for it.
Also think of creating *empty space*! Don't succumb to horror vacui, the empty spaces will give room for options and add-ons.
You can make a male and a female, or male/female at the same time. You can also make three different elements
And lastly, also think about *movement*, loose parts can move when you choose the right material, and have a garment really flow.
Think in directions (3, eg. triangle, 4 eg rectangle, or 8 eg star.
##Assignments must-haves
By creating excess, material sticking out you can create dimeanions. But that's sort of decorative 3D, not structure.
1. Zero waste! Design on a grid if you want to do this. See Jessica Stanley's [example.](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/assignments/week03/)
2. Make it modular: same module should enable the creation of many different garments
3. Create a garment
4. Take nice pictures
4. Upload .dxf files
4. add design to opencircularfashion website.
Real 3D is always done with triangulation. The shape doesn't really matter, the shape of the centerpart is what determines #directions and ways of interlocking. Everything outside the centershape is excess and decoration.
**Personal must-haves**
You can use the edges of the center shape, or the corners.
1. Volume!
1. Color!
1. A big garment!
Think: colors, transparency
Combine thicker and thinner textile. Play with different sizes of the modules. You can also layer up if your holes permit!
**Cecilia's Tips and tricks**
You can use leather, felt etc, rigid materials. But also organza and thinner matterials *can work* can have led to beautiful results.
* There should be a logic to this to I guess. Write it up, document it REAAAAAAALLY well. Test your instructions with someone else.
* Make a "pattern", like a knitting pattern.
* To make a garment: design the modules into the dress pattern, you can design finished edges.
* Rhino can make nice arrays
* Grid: triangle, hexagon, square? This determines your structure.
* Use decorative elements: what do you want it to look like?
* Material: determines width of cuts and arrows.
GOING 3D
The key is playing around with paper. There's not really rules for it.
## Inspiration
Also think of creating empty space! Don't succumb to horror vacui, the empty spaces will give room for options and add-ons.
**Drag aesthetic**
Think *movement*, loose parts can move.
![]()
*They are probably two of my favs, so crazy/beautiful*
Kimchi and Trixie Mattel
ZERO WASTE
Volume! Pink and Green!
Design on a grid if you want to do this. See Jessica's example.
**Technical inspiration**
PROCESS
Increasing and increasing like knitting
Don't look at modules! Get inspired by literally anything else, nature, armours, any system with structure.
Church!
![]()
*The church I pass by every day, Loes Bogers*
ASSEMBLING
Tesselation
There should be a logic to this to I guess. Write it up, document it REAAAAAAALLY well. Test your instructions with someone else.
* See documentation of of jessica stanley from last year: it's male/female AND zero waste.
* You can encode messages in the textile too! Eg. Jessica's binary.
* See Irene Caretti's dress. So gorgeousssss
* Rei Kabakubo-Comme des Garcons worn by Rihanna. OMG yes.
* Post-Couture Antwerp. Look at their double interlocks. It helps to make things really wearable. Like a tiewrap.
* Häckel's biological studies, drawings!
Make a "pattern", like a knitting pattern.
![]()
*Things I like by......*
To make a garment: design the modules into the dress pattern, you can design finished edges.
Rhino can make nice arrays
**Personal preferences:**
* Volume volume volume, I want big shapes
* zero waste all the way, using waste stream of lab
* semi-intuitive assembling and modeling on the body
* modules should enable fast improvising, module should give lots of options to play, like legos! But still have a nice look to it of course.
INSPIRATION
**Personal dislikes**
See documentation of of jessica stanley from last year: it's male/female AND zero waste.
* net-like structures
* crazy tiny pieces (horror assembling)
* very thick structures that need a lot of material to cover a small area
You can encode the textile too! Eg. Jessica's binary.
## Research
See Irene Caretti's dress. So gorgeousssss
**Sketching**
![]()
*Lots of sketches*
Grid: triangle, hexagon, square? Determines structure?
Decorative elements: what do you want it to look like?
Material: determines width of cuts and arrows.
**An attempt at mathsy thinking**
![]()
*Me trying to wrap my head around directions, and cecilia's explanation of making a module in Rhino :)*
Rei Kabakubo-Comme des Garcons worn by Rihanna. OMG yes.
**Paper try-outs**
![]()
*Yes!!! Why it gotta be flat though?*
Post-Couture Antwerp. Look at their double interlocks. It helps to make things really wearable. Like a tiewrap.
I tried out a bunch of things in paper and was immediately trying to make even the paper version go 3D, by finding options to increase width and decrease width. Somewhat successful, definitely settled my ambition to go for volume.
Häckel's biological studies, drawings!
## Test 1: keep it simple, explore materials
Fish skin!
![]()
![]()
![]()
REQUIREMENTS
1. modular
2. as zero waste as possible
3.
**Same module, different materials**
I tested my basic square module with:
## Research
* *denim* - nice dark blue and light blue using inside and outside, frayed edges, hard to assemble!!! Lies flat.
* *dense felt* (white) - gave brown burn marks, I don't like that. Lies flat.
* *loose felt* (salmon) - looks nice, feel nice, really hard to assemble and easy to tear apart. Lies flat.
* *fake leather* (green) - keeps integrity very nicely! Lies very flat, few burn marks, nice clean cut, totally keeps its shape, falls heavy down the lines of the body. Can be very nice.
* *organza* (hot pink) - love the color, love the transparency effect. Hate how much it frays during handling. This is not for me at all. Also cutting at a diagonal didn't solve this. I dont' have a high pain threshold for fraying fabric.
"Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum."
**Oh a potential winner!**
> "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum."
* *the EVA foam* - this is thermoformable hobby foam - a property that could be nice to explore later too - and it's alive! Even using plan rectangles it starts to curve a bit, and playing with directions, alternating between slotting the tabs in from the back or front already gives curves, and creates tubes shapes. Greaaaat!!!! It also feels very nice on the skin. It's a bit stinky to cut, and there's slight burning but I can try reduce it with the settings. The tabs do change shape a little when manipulating it, but it also adds a nice irregularity to the computational vibe I guess? I can live with it. It can stand some diffuse strain, but not tearing at one point.
## Useful links
**Laser tricks**
- [Jekyll](http://jekyll.org)
- [Google](http://google.com)
- [Markdown](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Markdown)
* pieces flying away? Turn the screw of the laser head to reduce the airflow from the blower in the laser head (at my lab at work). Perfection, no fire. Do not try this without consulting your lab manager
* pieces flying away? Put a piece of cardboard under your material, spray it generously with water, and stick you fabric on (temporarily).
* Don't use speed 400 for small designs, it never catches up to speed so you're using pseudo settings. Test cut with a module, not a 10mmx10mm square.
## Code Example
**Design tricks**
Use the three backticks to separate code.
* Path finder > Outline to take out double lines (save yourself laser time!)
* Great way to make arrays that transform along the way (scaling and moving): in the menu bar: Effect - Distort & Transform - Transform tool. Also see [this tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVQPzMRGwl0), by Project Lady (amazinggggg name btw) for further instructions on adding organic-looking warps after. Did not get to it for now but would be very interesting to play with.
```
// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board
void setup() {
// initialize digital pin LED_BUILTIN as an output.
pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT);
}
// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop() {
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
delay(1000); // wait for a second
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
delay(1000); // wait for a second
}
```
## Test 2: Take me to church. Not.
For the second tests I wanted to continue with the fake leather and foam and try to make modules that I can use to increase and decrease to make nice shapes around the body. I took the church as inspiration but went for a somewhat simpler diamond shape.
## Gallery
I started with only one manipulation: by only increasing the size of the module on one axis and keeping the other the same. I cut it and just started playing with it. I thought changing both axes could be the next step.
![](../images/sample-photo.jpg)
![]()
## Video
But that step never came! I unintentionally started rotating the pieces, thereby accidentally creating increase on the x-axis AND the y-axis, which magically worked out really well!
### From Vimeo
![]()
*Explanation of what happened and how it accidentally has some kind of mathematical logic to it...???*
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/10048961" width="640" height="480" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p><a href="https://vimeo.com/10048961">Sound Waves</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/radarboy">George Gally (Radarboy)</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
## Redesigning the module
### From Youtube
1. use mathematical formula instead of intuition: 122% on y 2. no rounded corners because: zero waste
3. settled on design with 2x slots and 2x tabs
4. made half modules for finishing seams 5. made nr 5 a square because difference impossible to see by eye
6. only using 1-8 so left out 9 and 10
7. scaled the size of the set so that the nr 5 is 40x40mm for ease and speed of cutting and assembling an entire garment. The smalles piece looked beautiful but is very fragile and hard to assemble. ![]()
*New modules, Loes Bogers*
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jjNgJFemlC4" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
## Estimating increase/decrease and number of modules to make a bomber jacket
I decided I want to make a pink bomber jacket, because it has nice round shapes but still accentuates the smaller parts of the body like wrists and waist. So lots of curves and swerves. Let's see if I can manage.
## 3D Models
I want to model somewhat intuitively, but should study which parts of a bomber jacket increase, and where it decreases to create the right shape. I traced a low-res image of a pattern sized the shoulders roughly to my own and started drawing some lines of where the fabric should converge and diverge.
<div class="sketchfab-embed-wrapper"><iframe width="640" height="480" src="https://sketchfab.com/models/658c8f8a2f3042c3ad7bdedd83f1c915/embed" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen; vr" mozallowfullscreen="true" webkitallowfullscreen="true"></iframe>
![]()
*Estimating amounts of modules to create a jacket*
<p style="font-size: 13px; font-weight: normal; margin: 5px; color: #4A4A4A;">
<a href="https://sketchfab.com/models/658c8f8a2f3042c3ad7bdedd83f1c915?utm_medium=embed&utm_source=website&utm_campaign=share-popup" target="_blank" style="font-weight: bold; color: #1CAAD9;">Dita&#39;s Gown</a>
by <a href="https://sketchfab.com/francisbitontistudio?utm_medium=embed&utm_source=website&utm_campaign=share-popup" target="_blank" style="font-weight: bold; color: #1CAAD9;">Francis Bitonti Studio</a>
on <a href="https://sketchfab.com?utm_medium=embed&utm_source=website&utm_campaign=share-popup" target="_blank" style="font-weight: bold; color: #1CAAD9;">Sketchfab</a>
</p>
</div>
## Cutting
## Assembling
## Step-by-step Ikea guide to DIY this
## Bonus section & recitation
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