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all pics up! YEAH

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#INGREDIENTS & CONSUMABLES
![](../images/ingredients-2.jpg)*Some ingredients you'll need, Loes Bogers, 2020*
The recipes listed on this website can be used as a starting point for material makers in the Netherlands and around. Consider per ingredient if this is something that is locally abundant in your area. If not, try finding something that could substitute that ingredient to make it your own, and follow the local natural resources around *you*.
With these 40 ingredients you can list all the 25 recipes suggested as a material archive starter, with a suggestion for a local supplier and approximation of the cost per unit. Check out the tools section as well, this list contains disposables only. For under € 500 you can purchase all the ingredients listed below, and most will last many rounds of experiments. The prices listed per material sample in the recipe section are based on the prices below. Of course it is possible to buy smaller packages of most ingredients, this will be *relatively* expensive, but wise if you are planning to just try it out.
##Locally abundant ingredients to collect
Selecting the 24 recipes to start with in the Netherlands were mostly motivated by what is abundant here locally. So the ingredients listed here involve food waste and byproducts that ideally should not be purchased, but sourced by accessing waste streams or collecting leftovers. If you start out doing this from home, it really helps to collect nice glass jars, pots and bowls for collecting and drying food waste. Remove the labels and give them a nice place e.g. in a window where you are reminded and where you can keep an eye on them as they dry.
![](../images/toolpics-4.jpg)
| Nr | Ingredient | Approx. Price | Where to find |
|-----|-------|---------|---------|
| 1 | Yellow onion skins| n/a | identify waste streams in your home, neighbourhood and/or local supermarkets/restaurants | add notes here |
| 2 | Red cabbage | n/a | identify waste streams in your home, neighbourhood and/or local supermarkets/restuarants |
| 3 | Fish skins | n/a | connect to local fish mongers or a fish market and try to access this as a waste stream, also ask for fish scales! Can be used to make plastic and glue as well|
| 4 | Egg shells |n/a | identify waste streams in your home, neighbourhood and/or local supermarkets/restaurants |
| 5 | PLA scraps | n/a | identify waste streams locally, in fablabs, printshops etcetera. Ask for scraps and failed prints that are easier to handle manually |
| 6 | Withered flowers | n/a | connect to local flower shops to access these as a waste stream, flowers in nature are there to be enjoyed by everyone, don't pick them|
| 7 | Banana peels | n/a | identify waste streams in your home, neighbourhood and/or local supermarkets/restaurants |
| 8 | Overripe mangos | n/a | identify waste streams at local markets |
##List of ingredients to buy
The ingredients below are things you will likely have to buy. It's good exercise to localize options that are produced fairly and sustainably, and ideally locally. Research the manufacturers, contact them, find out where things are produced and what your best option might be. These may be subject to change and more research can be done to find even better options. Consider this an open invitation to improve what is here!
| Nr | Ingredient | Approx. Price | Supplier | Notes |
|-----|-------|---------|--------|------|
| 9 | Denatured alcohol 96% | € 6 per L | [Orphi](https://www.drogist.nl/orphi-alcohol-96-gedenat-5-en-methan-1000ml.htm) | this version has 5% methanol |
| 10 | Potato starch | € 2,60 per 250 g | [Johannesmolen or other eco brand](https://www.ekoplaza.nl/producten/product/aardappelzetmeel?channable=e63107.MTU4Ng&gclid=CjwKCAjwhOD0BRAQEiwAK7JHmMX6if0OD3uBoImteSVMm5d27XDRRQr4rr1YdMX48C4HwlO4B7ZNzxoCTLMQAvD_BwE) | produced in the Netherlands |
| 11 | Glycerine | € 10 per L | [Chempropack for Orphi](https://www.deonlinedrogist.nl/drogist/chempropack-glycerine-123.htm) or search for "Glycerine 1.23 chempropack" | foodgrade (E422), vegetable-based, produced in Portugal |
| 12 | Gelatine powder | € 27 per kg | [Dr Oetker or Jacob Hooy for 1 kg packages](https://www.bouwhuis.com/dr-oetker-prof-gelatinepoeder-1kg) or search for "gelatine powder 1kg" | also available at wholesalers like Sligro |
| 13 | Agar powder | € 72 per kg | [De Kruidenbaron](https://www.dekruidenbaron.nl/agar-agar-poeder.html?id=133179224) or search for "agar powder" | also found in Asian supermarkets |
| 14 | Bees wax | € 35 per kg | [Wiertz](https://www.superfoodstore.nl/drogisterij/overig-huishoudelijk/wiertz-bijenwas-zuiver-1-kg?search_query=bijenwas&results=645) or search for "pure bees wax" | other types may be fine, need to be tested |
| 15 | Sodium Alginate| € 15 per 300 g | [Unique Products](https://www.unique-products.nl/qr_alginate.html) | at wholesalers like sligro or cooking shops. Other types of sodium alginate could be researched further |
| 16 | Calcium chloride | € 6 per 500 g | [Brandless](https://www.werkenmetmerken.nl/nl/calciumchloride_poeder_food_grade/p/47859/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4dr0BRCxARIsAKUNjWS_6b7zZZuTGeBrYNpcCWrEiLdMfli2Lipr8VFhCHWqDCQq6K4MRE8aAo9AEALw_wcB#75469) | this is food grade, but it is a desiccant that **can be dangerous to health in high concentrations. Do not ingest!** Wear gloves |
| 17 | White vinegar | € 0,50 per 1,5L | [any homebrand at supermarket or grocery store, e.g.](https://www.jumbo.com/jumbo-witte-natuurazijn-1,-5l/137400FLS/) | or any other 4-8% vinegar with a PH of around 3 (too acidic can kill microbes in e.g. kombucha recipes) |
| 18 | Citric acid | € 7 per kg | [usually brandless, e.g.](https://www.natuurproduct.com/a-45323177-4066077/meel-bakmiddel/citroenzuur/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4dr0BRCxARIsAKUNjWRLZUF25Uj4MQnHTFJ0iTntPDmHbUjCnNsdJww_YGBe2UKfq7xiQt8aAj7NEALw_wcB#description) or can be found in asian super markets | smaller packages best found in asian supermarkets|
| 19 | Kitchen salt | € 0,50 per kg | [Any brand](https://www.bouwhuis.com/keukenzout-1kg?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4dr0BRCxARIsAKUNjWQtGd6xkDv9Taij7Zg0OW7bg3lZwScrN0lQPIg4OT3rbFxGo5NbGSsaAmyBEALw_wcB) or plain kitchen salt from supermarket | plain salt formula is NaCl |
| 20 | Soda ash (carbonate soda, washing soda) | € 3,5 per kg | [Greenhub via Ekoplaza](https://www.ekoplaza.nl/producten/product/wassoda) or search for "carbonate soda, soda ash or in Dutch: natriumcarbonaat or huishoudsoda" | Na2C03 (or E500) is carbonate soda and is used for cleaning. Bicarbonate soda or baking powder is NOT the same |
| 21 | Dishwashing soap | € 2 per 450 ml | [e.g. Ecover](https://www.ah.nl/producten/product/wi434053/ecover-afwasmiddel-zero) or any eco dishwashing soap | smells will transfer to the bioplastic |
| 22 | Raw kombucha | € 3 per 300 ml | [YaYa Original Kombucha](https://www.ekoplaza.nl/producten/product/kombucha-original) | or any kombucha drink with raw culture in it (should say so on the packaging). You can also buy a SCOBY from a brewer directly |
| 23 | Black tea | € 2 per 50 bags | [Pickwick](https://www.plus.nl/product/pickwick-english-zwarte-thee-pot-voordeelpak-doos-50-stuks-739934) | any plain black (ceylon, english breakfast tea) or green tea will do. Flavouring (e.g. earl grey often contains oils) and does not work well |
| 24 | Sugar| € 1 per 1.5 KG | [brandless](https://www.plus.nl/product/neutraal-suiker-zak-1500-gram-867669) | plain white (organic) sugar is best |
| 25 | Alum | € 9 per kg | [Orphi](https://www.deweegschaal.nl/orphi/aluin-1000g?channable=e72547.MTEyODk2OQ&utm_campaign=tradetracker&utm_content=&utm_source=tradetracker&utm_medium=CPS&utm_term=&s2m_channel=34&s2m_exclickid=1537697%3A%3A183960%3A%3ACj0KCQjw4dr0BRCxARIsAKUNjWRqRUOeOdiVoK2FEOSw0F80flvrCgfomVWKThQGQlH2QRTh.-i2YD4aAq3KEALw.wcB%3A%3A%3A%3A1586971657&s2m_exaffid=183960) or search for "Alum, Potash alum or potassium aluminium sulphate" | in Dutch often sold as "Aluin" crystals |
| 26 | Madder roots (dried) | € 35 per 1 KG | [Meervilt](https://www.meervilt.nl/winkel/verven/natuurlijk-verven/meekrap/) or search for "madder roots, or rubia tinctorum" | in Dutch: "meekrap wortel, gedroogd"|
| 27 | Water | € 0 per 1L | [Dutch tap water](https://www.rijksoverheid.nl/onderwerpen/drinkwater/vraag-en-antwoord/hoe-is-de-kwaliteit-van-het-drinkwater-in-nederland) | of course this is not free. Dutch tap water currently costs about 0,00064 euros per L and is considered to be very high quality. If unsure, use demineralized water for your recipes (found at drug stores)|
| 28 | Sunflower oil | € 1,5 per 1L | [Any brand](https://www.deen.nl/product/g-woon-zonnebloemolie-1-liter) or find at super market in the oil isle | or try other vegetable oils |
| 29 | Cloves | € 1,40 per 5 gr | [supermarket or grocer](https://www.jumbo.com/jumbo-kruidnagel-5g/182379STK/) | get whole cloves, not powder |
| 30 | Pure silk chiffon | € 17 per meter | [Fabric shop](https://www.zijdewinkel.nl/stoffen/zijde/chiffon/chiffon-35-natuurwit-op-138-cm-breed) silk chiffon | this is 138 cm wide. In dutch: search for chiffon or mousseline |
| 31 | Yarn | € 3,00 per 125m | [Hobbii eco bamboo/cotton yarn](https://hobbii.nl/garen/rainbow-bamboo-1003671) or search for eco yarns | any yarn would do in principle |
| 32 | Pipe cleaners | € 1 per 20 | [LTC Leiden](https://www.ltcleiden.nl/artikel/chenilledraad-6-mm-30-cm-20-stuks-wit/16132/) or search for "pipe cleaners" | dutch: chenilledraad found in hobby shops |
| 33 | Crunchy peanut butter | € 5 per 500 g | [Ekoplaza](https://www.ekoplaza.nl/producten/product/pindakaas-ongezouten-en-ongezoet?channable=e63107.MzIzMzIx&gclid=CjwKCAjwhOD0BRAQEiwAK7JHmKG4MBo-FHA0n-m_Q9zrfFH7vJJ-ERrEFCj57WFzM_mrYrsp5jR7vxoCq38QAvD_BwE) or any organic crunchy peanut butter | find one without additives |
| 34 | Large coffee filters | € 12 per 1000pcs | [Kantinewinkel.nl](https://www.kantinewinkel.nl/korffilters-90-250-mm-1000-stuks?gclid=CjwKCAjwhOD0BRAQEiwAK7JHmLSGH9uxWY1DPg9y4xiibzwSJ64rLf3Igu2PTneOu3lVS9dbUzo4SxoCjhkQAvD_BwE) or search for "large coffee filters" | Dutch: korffilters are the round variety |
| 35 | Turpentine | € 3 per L | [Gamma](https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/ok-terpentine-1-liter/p/B547476) or any hardware store | the eco might work too, but this variety still needs to be tested |
| 36 | Boiled linseed/flaxseed oil | € 4 per L | [Gamma](https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/gamma-lijnolie-gekookt-500-ml/p/B507653) or any hardware store | Be sure to get the boiled version, not the raw one or the foodgrade oil. The boiled linseed oil dries faster. Raw *might* work but needs to be tested. In Dutch: "gekookte lijnolie" |
###Specialist lab supplies
These are required to make the bacterial dye listed here. Try connecting to a biolab near you if these are hard to acquire otherwise.
| Nr | Ingredient | Approx. Price | Supplier | Notes |
|-----|-------|---------|---------|------|
| 37 | LB broth| € 90 per kg | [Fishersci](https://www.fishersci.nl/shop/products/ready-made-luria-broth-lb-powder-2/15805378#?keyword=LB+broth) or search for "Luria Broth Powder" | this is used as a liquid growth medium to grow bacteria on. Liquid broth is the better option to dye textiles directly |
| 38 | Strain of Serratia Marcescens Bacteria | € 50 per 1 ml | [BCCM Belspo Belgium](http://bccm.belspo.be/services/distribution) | be sure to ask the supplier for a level 1 type, some conditions for purchasing may apply, consider collaborating with a local biolab for the first experiments |
| 39 | Parafilm | € 36 per roll of 75m | [Fishersci](https://www.fishersci.nl/shop/products/purple-parafilm-m-sealing-film/16330422#?keyword=parafilm) or search for "parafilm" | 5 cm width is fine it can be cut into smaller pieces |
| 40 | Autoclave tape | € 22 per roll of 12m | [Fishersci](https://www.fishersci.nl/shop/products/adhesive-autoclave-indicator-tape/11720474#?keyword=autoclave+tape) or search for "autoclave indicator tape" | indicator for steam sterilization processes (will change color when sterilized) |
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......@@ -241,11 +241,13 @@ Has recipe been validated? Not yet.
**Images of the final sample**
![](../../images/finalpics-188.jpg)*Banana peel clay, Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../../images/finalpics-188.jpg)*Banana peel clay (not cut before cooking), Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../../images/finalpics-189.jpg)*Banana peel clay, Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../../images/finalpics-189.jpg)*Banana peel clay (not cut before cooking), Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../../images/finalpics-190.jpg)*Banana peel clay, Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../../images/finalpics-190.jpg)*Banana peel clay (not cut before cooking), Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../../images/finalpics-196.jpg)*Banana peel clay (cut before cooking), much finer texture, visible no fibres, Loes Bogers, 2020*
##REFERENCES
......
# KOMBUCHA SCOBY
![](../images/)
![](../../images/finalpics-194.jpg)*A young kombucha SCOBY, Loes Bogers, 2020*
##GENERAL INFORMATION
......@@ -230,7 +230,7 @@ Has recipe been validated? Yes, by Cecilia Raspanti, TextileLab, Waag Amsterdam,
**Images of the final sample**
![](../images/yourimage1.jpg)*Caption, Image credit, Year*
![](../../images/finalpics-194.jpg)*A young kombucha SCOBY, Loes Bogers, 2020*
##REFERENCES
......
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  • 2-up
  • Swipe
  • Onion skin
......@@ -26,12 +26,13 @@ The outcomes of the selection are threefold: 1) a number of documentation tools
###1. Tools and templates for documenting "new naturals"
- [**a list of tools**](../../docs/files/tools) needed to start your a local, physical collection material samples (a local physical archive, e.g. in a university lab)
- [**a manifesto for archiving new naturals**](./outcomes/new_naturals_manifesto/), comprised of a list of considerations I've come to find very helpful in thinking about the archiving practices of new naturals;
- [**a video tutorial**](./outcomes/tools_and_templates/tactilityvideo/) for capturing the tactile experience of material samples
- [**a template for new recipes**](./outcomes/recipe_template/), to help you capture the entire process, while asking the hard contextual questions and document relevant considerations when developing new recipes and consideration applications and scale. Colleague fabricademer Beatriz Sandini tested and used the templates to document the recipes of her project [Ephemeral Fashion Lab](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/beatriz.sandini/projects/0-final-project/).
- [**template to add new ingredients**](./outcomes/ingredient_template/), helping you ask the hard questions and document relevant considerations for adopting new ingredients and additives, also in terms of upscaling.
- [**a template to document recipes**](./outcomes/recipe_template/), to help you capture the entire process, while asking the hard contextual questions and document relevant considerations when developing new recipes and consideration applications and scale. Colleague fabricademer Beatriz Sandini tested and used the templates to document the recipes of her project [Ephemeral Fashion Lab](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/beatriz.sandini/projects/0-final-project/).
- [**a template to document ingredients**](./outcomes/ingredient_template/), helping you ask the hard questions and document relevant considerations for adopting new ingredients and additives, also in terms of upscaling.
- [**templates for labels**](./outcomes/label_templates/) to create your own physical archive with material samples (building on the work of Maria Viftrup who designed the original sample label designs for TextileLab Waag).
![](../images/pics-insta2.jpg)*Measuring and logging shrinkage, Loes Bogers, 2020*
......@@ -52,8 +53,8 @@ Since this project was developed in the Netherlands, the consideration was to ta
The collection contains different techniques in biofabration to give a novice material designer a wide range of methods to explore the potential of the natural resources around them. I want to stress that these recipes are not my inventions, nor are they new. They are my personal variations at best, and this part of the work is heavily indebted to the knowledge collected and created in and around the Fabricademy network and other design and DIY biology communities, and also builds upon the (physical) Material Archive at Textile Lab Waag that was realised by Cecilia Raspanti, Maria Viftrup and others in 2016-2017. Where it was known and identifyable, the related work and cultural origins of the techniques are referenced in each recipe. Techniques include:
- ***cooking*** bioplastics
- ***curing*** bioplastics with natural compounds (e.g. calcificatino of algae-based plastic)
- ***polymerization by cooking*** e.g. bioplastics
- ***curing*** bioplastics with natural compounds (e.g. calcification of algae-based plastic)
- ***extracting*** natural pigments in the form of inks and dyes
- ***growing*** microbial cultures for leather alternatives and bacterial dyes
- ***crystallization*** of minerals
......@@ -64,11 +65,11 @@ The collection contains different techniques in biofabration to give a novice ma
Secondly, the selection of 24 *techniques* is made based on the extent to which they allow material makers to craft a variety of *physical forms*. Considering which forms a material can take is equally a part of material learning and exploration, and is a starting point for understanding how they might be processed further by thermoforming, lasercutting, extruding, sewing, welding etcetera. The recipes result in:
- **surfaces** (flat materials, slabs, sheets)
- **strings** (that may be used as yarns or for additive manufacturing)
- **liquids** (water and alcohol based inks and dyes)
- **solids** (including 3D solids but also structurally open spatial forms like moulded composites)
- **surface treatments** (e.g. forming crystals on a substrate, direct dyeing with bacteria)
- ***surfaces*** (flat materials, slabs, sheets)
- ***strings*** (that may be used as yarns or for additive manufacturing)
- ***liquids*** (water and alcohol based inks and dyes)
- ***solids*** (including 3D solids but also structurally open spatial forms like moulded composites)
- ***surface treatments*** (e.g. forming crystals on a substrate, direct dyeing with bacteria)
###3. A features wishlist for an online materials repository
......@@ -84,11 +85,11 @@ suggests a system for a context-aware, collaborative materials database. Develop
The templates and the starter recipes are envisioned as tools that can already contribute to building up local, offline communities who want to explore and become more aware of new natural material alternatives through making. This can be used already in informal learning contexts as well as (higher) education.
Online repositories can facilitate communities of material explorers - from novice to expert - in constructing not only new materials, but also further the critical understanding of the processes and resources involved, and learn from techniques and arguments developed elsewhere. Of course for this to take effect the suggestions need to be realised in an existing database, or a new one might be developed. Future steps involve:
Online repositories can facilitate communities of material explorers - from novice to expert - in constructing not only new materials, but also further the critical understanding of the processes and resources involved, and learn from techniques and arguments developed elsewhere. Of course for this to take effect the suggestions need to be realised in an existing database, or a new one might be developed. Future steps involve:
- **realising the online database** further with a designer and developer or connecting to existing initiatives (preferred)
- research and/or develop and add **methods for DIY material testing**, like testing tensile strength, chemical resistance etc.
- create well-researched **ingredient pages** for all the ingredients used (for the moment only the entry for glycerine is there as an example).
- research and/or develop and document **methods for DIY material testing**, like testing tensile strength, chemical resistance etc.
- create well-researched **ingredient pages** for all the ingredients used (for the moment only the entry for [glycerine](../files/example_glycerine/) is there as an example).
- possibly add a **section for open-source DIY tools** for fabrication
- **further testing of the formats as tools for learning** in higher education and fabricademy, gathering peer feedback from peers
......@@ -168,23 +169,6 @@ A platform like Materiom might also benefit from acknowledging more explicitly w
![](../images/stopmotionstand.jpg)*Shooting a tactility impression for archiving, Loes Bogers, 2020*
## Archiving New Naturals: A Manifesto
*As a starting point for the project, I wrote this manifesto for the obsessively curious, the critical makers, the material nerds. Now let's keep going. By Loes Bogers, 2 April 2020*
- **we need *ongoing* material activism**, especially in the face of smart and advanced materials increasing popularity. What could be methods to continue to demystify material craftsmanship as materials research evolves and becomes highly technical and less accessible due to increasing complexity as well as patenting intellectual property?
- **if plactics are not the only issue, then bioplastics are not the only solution**, dyeing and chemical treatments and finishes are equally if hazardous for the environment and workers. Biodegradable, or even biocompostable plastics don't solve all our problems
- **designers and makers need to get comfortable drawing from different fields of knowledge** and their methods like empirical approaches and systematic ways of experimenting and documenting, such as in fields of biology, chemistry and other "hard" sciences.
- but we need to be equally **aware of history, cultural heritage and the politics of design materials** in terms of their cultural history, as well as their socio-economic and ecological implications.
- **we need open-source material knowledge**: if resources are part of the commons, then so are material kowledge and craftsmanship, but we need to contiue to build it up and keep it alive.
- **make materials from scratch**: as this will bring the entire ecology of material knowledge, production, distribution and legislation into view and open to questioning;
- **cultivate material craftsmanship** and understand the importance time and controlled environments effect on a material's growth/curing/drying. But equally, learn to work *with* any material (rather than expecting it to bend to your will).
- look for and learn to appreciate **locally abundant resources** and their potential, and start to see them appear in very unlikely places;
- **spend time with materials and resources**, attention and dedication to the cooking/curing/drying or growth process will allow you to start seeing alternative uses, options, applications.
- **learn from practices from all over the world** to strengthen your own locally centered practice (not yielding to the temptation of turning that wealth of knowledge into a candy shop);
- **ask questions to stay with the trouble** of socalled sustainable materials, rather than setting out to find silver bullet solutions.
- **document and share** your process, research and outcomes using formats to describe their sensory and technical properties, and give an impression of their tactile, and auditory qualities.
##References
......@@ -197,7 +181,7 @@ A platform like Materiom might also benefit from acknowledging more explicitly w
- **The Secrets of Bioplastic** by Clara Davis (Fabtex, IAAC, Fab Lab Barcelona), 2017, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/the_secrets_of_bioplastic_).
- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3)
- **DAMADEI: Design & Advanced Materials as a Driver of European Innovation**, by Damadei project committee, funded by the European Commission, 2013.
- **Material Archive** by TextileLab Waag, Amsterdam (Cecilia Raspanti, Maria Viftrup and many others), 2016-ongoing.
- **Material Archive** by TextileLab Waag, Amsterdam (Cecilia Raspanti, Maria Viftrup and others), 2016-ongoing.
......@@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ I've compiled an overview of tools and materials needed to recreate these recipe
| [Agar composite]((../../files/recipes/agarcomposite)) | €0,57 | ![](../../images/finalpics-58.jpg) |
| [Re-used PLA scraps]((../../files/recipes/recycledPLA)) | €0,00 | ![](../../images/finalpics-61.jpg) |
| [Alum crystal silk]((../../files/recipes/alumcrystalsilk)) | €2,00 | ![](../../images/finalpics-5.jpg) |
| [Kombucha SCOBY]((../../files/recipes/kombuchascoby)) | €6,15 | ![](../../images/) |
| [Kombucha SCOBY]((../../files/recipes/kombuchascoby)) | €6,15 | ![](../../images/finalpics-194.jpg) |
| [Kombucha paper](../../files/recipes/kombuchapaper) | €0,64 | ![](../../images/finalpics-14.jpg)
| [Flower paper and dye](../../files/recipes/flowerpaper) | €0,01 | ![](../../images/finalpics-127.jpg) |
| [Overripe mango leather](../../files/recipes/mangoleather) | €0,21 | ![](../../images/finalpics-20.jpg) |
......
# Archiving New Naturals: A Manifesto
*As a starting point for the project, I wrote this manifesto for the obsessively curious, the critical makers, the material nerds. Now let's keep going. By Loes Bogers, 2 April 2020*
- **we need *ongoing* material activism**, especially in the face of smart and advanced materials increasing popularity. What could be methods to continue to demystify material craftsmanship as materials research evolves and becomes highly technical and less accessible due to increasing complexity as well as patenting intellectual property?
- **if plactics are not the only issue, then bioplastics are not the only solution**, dyeing and chemical treatments and finishes are equally if hazardous for the environment and workers. Biodegradable, or even biocompostable plastics will not solve all our problems
- **designers and makers need to get comfortable drawing from different fields of knowledge** and their methods like empirical approaches and systematic ways of experimenting and documenting, such as in fields of biology, chemistry and other "hard" sciences.
- but we need to be equally **aware of history, cultural heritage and the politics of design materials** in terms of their cultural history, as well as their socio-economic and ecological implications.
- **we need open-source material knowledge**: if resources are part of the commons, then so are material kowledge and craftsmanship, but we need to contiue to build it up and keep it alive.
- **make materials from scratch**: as this will bring the entire ecology of material knowledge, production, distribution and legislation into view and open to questioning;
- **cultivate material craftsmanship** and understand the importance time and controlled environments effect on a material's growth/curing/drying. But equally, learn to work *with* any material (rather than expecting it to bend to your will).
- look for and learn to appreciate **locally abundant resources** and their potential, and start to see them appear in very unlikely places;
- **spend time with materials and resources**, attention and dedication to the cooking/curing/drying or growth process will allow you to start seeing alternative uses, options, applications.
- **learn from practices from all over the world** to strengthen your own locally centered practice (not yielding to the temptation of turning that wealth of knowledge into a candy shop);
- **ask questions to stay with the trouble** of socalled sustainable materials, rather than setting out to find silver bullet solutions.
- **document and share** your process, research and outcomes using formats to describe their sensory and technical properties, and give an impression of their tactile, and auditory qualities.
\ No newline at end of file
# Label templates
![](../../images/labelimagehere.jpg)*Labeling your samples, Loes Bogers, 2020*
![](../../../images/finalpics-192.jpg)*Labeling your samples, original design by Maria Viftrup (2017), modified and photographed by Loes Bogers, 2020*
As you start to create your material experiments, you will want to organize the way you archive them. These labels can be used to organize your samples. Only include items that are fully cured and/or dried.
As you start to create your material experiments, you might want to organize the way you archive and/or showcase them. Following the example of the Material Archive at TextileLab Waag, it's a very activating gesture to include a summarized version of the recipe on the label, to indicate these are open-source recipes.
All these labels can be printed on regular office printers that can print on heavier paper, like A4, 160 or 210 grams/m2. Check what your printer allows. They can be edited InDesign or Acrobat Pro (for now).
These labels were adapted to include additional information to acknowledge and reference others, and describing changes made to the original, to add some sustainability info, and also describe what the material is based on. The title can be very descriptive, and comparative (like "banana clay"), but it is also useful see right away the origins of the core component and how it was sourced (which for banana clay would be: fruit waste).
Use strong double-sided tape to attach a strong label with a hole to it if you wish to hang them. Designs for a display system will be added here at a later stage.
The label designs were originally created by [Maria Viftrup](https://viftrup.com/textilelab) for TextileLab Waag in Amsterdam, modified by Loes Bogers in April 2020 with permission by Waag. The font used is Calibri light.
### Large labels
These labels are 21 x 20 cm (WxH)
[InDesign file for large labels](../templates/label_large.indd)
[PDF file for large labels](../templates/label_large.pdf)
### Medium labels
These labels are 15 x 14.2 cm (WxH)
[InDesign file for large labels](../templates/label_medium.indd)
[PDF file for large labels](../templates/label_medium.pdf)
### Small labels
These labels are 10.5 x 10 cm (WxH)
[InDesign file for large labels](../templates/label_small.indd)
[PDF file for large labels](../templates/label_small.pdf)
##Growing your local (physical) archive
##Information to put on the labels
A nice systematic way of growing your archive is by starting simple variations on existing recipes, e.g. by changing the amounts, adding or substituting one ingredient, etcetera.
**Title**
Think of a short, descriptive title
Think of a short, descriptive title, maybe even comparing it to materials it is similar to.
**[Core]-based?**
Here you can what is the main constituent material to help describe what kind of material this is. This is not a hard classification, but is supposed to provide a meaningful descriptor to help place the material (which the title alone might not be able to do).
Here you can what is the main constituent material to help describe what kind of material this is and how its main ingredient has been sourced. This is not a hard classification, but is supposed to provide a meaningful descriptor to help place the material (which the title alone might not be able to do).
For example, a bioplastic may be *gelatine-based*, or *agar-based*, or *starch-based* (or a combination). Fish leather is *animal-based*, whereas a mango leather would be *plant-based*, or perhaps even based on fruit waste. Dyes or inks are usually classified accordig to their solvent: e.g. *alcohol-based* or *water-based* because it says something about how they might be used. Whereas pure pigment (powders, or pigments grown on silk like the Serratia Marcescens recipe could be considered *microbial*.
......@@ -65,21 +37,24 @@ Some examples:
**Renewable/reusable/compostable?**
All these terms are explained on the [glossary page](../glossary.md).
A renewable material is a material that can replenish itself naturally on a human timescale. So plants, bacteria and fungi: definitely. Trees? Not really. Petroleum? Definitely not
**Ingredients/making procedure**
A material is reusable if you can reshape it without loosing its qualities. For example: PLA can be remelted in such a way, and alum crystals can be redissolved and formed again without relatively little additional energy.
A material is compostable if it can be turned into a fertilizer (a compound that is *beneficial* for plant growth within 90 days. Ideally, it is suitable for home-composting. Which means that it does not require industrial composting facilities to compost, but you can do it yourself under uncontrolled conditions.
Keep it short and sweet, and make sure you refer to the extended recipe that ca be accessed online (see also "variations on a source recipe".)
**Ingredients/making procedure**
**Variations on a source recipe**
Keep it short and sweet, and make sure you refer to the extended recipe that can be accessed online (see also "variations on a source recipe".)
The labels ask you to state which recipe is the "source" recipe, and how you are making variations on it. Assuming that you will start off by coming up with variations on the recipes listed here. Did you develop or find new recipe? Keep on reading to find out how to contribute to the digital archive as well.
**This is a variation on:**
The labels ask you to state which recipe is the "source" recipe, and how you are making variations on it. Assuming that you will start off by coming up with variations on the recipes listed here but you can also point to another recipe (use the QR code for quick access).
*URL & QR code*
**URL & QR code**
Put the URL to the online recipe in the box on the top left, and/or generate a QR code for that url and add it on the label for easy access on mobile phones. You can find [free QR code generators](https://www.qr-code-generator.com) online. Use short URLs if possible, you can shorten URLs with for example [bit.ly](https://app.bitly.com).
**Customize with your lab's logo & website**
**Optional: customize with your logo & website**
Use the top right box and text field to customize the label by adding your lab's logo and url if you wish.
......@@ -87,13 +62,46 @@ Use the top right box and text field to customize the label by adding your lab's
Don't forget to fill out your details and the date of fabrication at the bottom of the label.
##Contributing to the collaborative digital archive\*
*\* For the time being it is only possible to submit to the archive in this way, but the intention is to automate this fully in the future.*
![](../../../images/finalpics-191.jpg)*Labeling your samples, Loes Bogers, 2020*
If your variations have turned into a substantially different material, with different properties, please contribute to the digital archive by filling a form for a [new recipe entry](../new_recipe.md) and sending it to l.bogers [at] hva [dot] nl.
## Printing and assembling
All these labels can be printed on regular office printers that can print on heavier paper, like A4, 160 or 210 grams/m2. Check what your printer allows. But don't forget to put your info before printing:
- labels can be edited InDesign or Acrobat Pro (for now). Only include items that are fully cured and/or dried.
- Export the labels for print, and include crop marks for cutting
- Print the labels on 160 or 210 grams/m2 paper
- Cut along the crop marks to trim off the edges
- Use strong double-sided tape to attach a strong label with a hole to it if you wish to hang them. Designs for a display system will be added here at a later stage, or design your own.
The label designs were originally created by [Maria Viftrup](https://viftrup.com/textilelab) for TextileLab Waag in Amsterdam, modified by Loes Bogers in April 2020 with permission by Waag. The font used is Calibri light.
![](../../../images/finalpics-193.jpg)*Labeling your samples, Loes Bogers, 2020*
### Large labels
These labels are 21 x 20 cm (WxH)
[InDesign file for large labels](../templates/label_large.indd)
[PDF file for large labels](../templates/label_large.pdf)
### Medium labels
These labels are 15 x 14.2 cm (WxH)
[InDesign file for large labels](../templates/label_medium.indd)
[PDF file for large labels](../templates/label_medium.pdf)
### Small labels
These labels are 10.5 x 10 cm (WxH)
[InDesign file for large labels](../templates/label_small.indd)
[PDF file for large labels](../templates/label_small.pdf)
*Adding new ingredients*
If your recipe requires a new ingredient, please also fill out a form for a [new ingredient entry](../new_ingredient.md) and sending it to l.bogers [at] hva [dot] nl.
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