**pronounce in Australian accent, quote by drag performer [Courtney Act](https://rupaulsdragrace.fandom.com/wiki/Courtney_Act)*


...
@@ -23,7 +24,7 @@ The way I've come to know her: she will only wear one label: that of *feminist k
...
@@ -23,7 +24,7 @@ The way I've come to know her: she will only wear one label: that of *feminist k
I would like to capture what I perceive to be the essence of my friend, how she stands, how she carries her body, the volume of it, its strength as a whole, without necessarily replicating her exactly.
I would like to capture what I perceive to be the essence of my friend, how she stands, how she carries her body, the volume of it, its strength as a whole, without necessarily replicating her exactly.
## Part 1: Research - Are digital bodies standardized bodies?
## Research 1: Are digital bodies standardized bodies?
Let's start here: How is it possible, that in 2019, a sports wear brand like Nike manages to spark a total online outrage by introducing bigger mannequins at their London flagship store? The consumerist glamour fantasy hasn't been real for a long time now! Walk out of the Nike store, onto the highstreet where it's located and you might see that actually, it is pretty common to have a body like this. Western European and Nothern American norms and culture tells us it's ok to judge a big body, mercilessly. Wow. Unlike some other commentators, Dr. Nikki Stamp explains this issue very well in *The Guardian* in her piece ["Berating Nike for Plus Size Mannequin is no War on Obesity, It's just War on Bigger Bodies"](https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2019/jun/12/berating-nike-for-plus-size-mannequins-is-no-war-on-obesity-its-just-war-on-bigger-bodies).
Let's start here: How is it possible, that in 2019, a sports wear brand like Nike manages to spark a total online outrage by introducing bigger mannequins at their London flagship store? The consumerist glamour fantasy hasn't been real for a long time now! Walk out of the Nike store, onto the highstreet where it's located and you might see that actually, it is pretty common to have a body like this. Western European and Nothern American norms and culture tells us it's ok to judge a big body, mercilessly. Wow. Unlike some other commentators, Dr. Nikki Stamp explains this issue very well in *The Guardian* in her piece ["Berating Nike for Plus Size Mannequin is no War on Obesity, It's just War on Bigger Bodies"](https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2019/jun/12/berating-nike-for-plus-size-mannequins-is-no-war-on-obesity-its-just-war-on-bigger-bodies).
...
@@ -86,14 +87,15 @@ Download *MakeHumanAngry* (made with MakeHuman) here:
...
@@ -86,14 +87,15 @@ Download *MakeHumanAngry* (made with MakeHuman) here:
</p>
</p>
</div>
</div>
##Creating a 3D mesh of a body by scanning it
##Get The Body You Want!: Creating a 3D mesh of someone's body by scanning it
What I used for bodyscanning is the [SizeStream SS20 body scanner and software](http://sizestream.com/ss20-classic/) we have at work. Colleagues at the Fashion Research and Technology group use this machine to create a database of measurements to optimize e.g. the design of uniforms. The process of scanning is so straightforward, it's a bit silly to document, but here are the steps and below is a video that shows how it's done. Even the voice instruction and music you hear is really how the interface guides you lol.
What I used for bodyscanning is the [SizeStream SS20 body scanner and software](http://sizestream.com/ss20-classic/) we have at work. Colleagues at the Fashion Research and Technology group use this machine to create a database of measurements to optimize e.g. the design of uniforms. The process of scanning is so straightforward, it's a bit silly to document, but here are the steps and below is a video that shows how it's done. Even the voice instruction and music you hear is really how the interface guides you lol.
* Step 0: find a model and ask them to step into the scanner and hold handle bars
* Step 0: find a model and ask for permission to use their data. Specify how you'll use it.
* Step 1: open the software
* Step 1: ask them to step into the scanner and hold handle bars,
* Step 2: press the big button to start scanning
* Step 2: open the software
* Step 3: wait until the lady sings and download your files in the program folder
* Step 3: press the big button to start scanning
* Step 4: wait until the lady sings and download your files in the program folder
@@ -112,9 +114,9 @@ I repaired my file using the [Netfabb Service](https://service.netfabb.com/servi
...
@@ -112,9 +114,9 @@ I repaired my file using the [Netfabb Service](https://service.netfabb.com/servi
*A Screenshot of the 3D scan*
*A Screenshot of the 3D scan*
## Part 2: Accuracy Beyond Inert Matter
## Research 2: What is accuracy beyond inert matter?
What I personally find more interesting are studies that also acknowledge the fact that bodies act, they move, they morph, they change, they have agency. Capturing that can also tell us a lot about the body.
What I personally find more interesting are studies that also acknowledge the fact that bodies act, they move, they morph, they change, they have agency. They're not passive things that exist in a void. Capturing that can also tell us a lot about the body but asks us to think more flexibly about accuracy and ways of representing the body.
**Étienne-Jules Marey and Eadward Muybridge's movement studies**<br>
**Étienne-Jules Marey and Eadward Muybridge's movement studies**<br>
I immediately think of Marey and Muybridge's movement studies from the early 19th century. Their research and methodologies are still so current. They were the first to study movement with the use of the then novel technology of photography. They studied for example the precise movements of birds in flight and horses galloping, that are hard to study with the human eye alone. Their images are famous and both actually also invented their own tools to do their studies, such as the [*sphygmograph*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sphygmograph)(pulse meter wearable from 1863) and the [*chronophotographic gun*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89tienne-Jules_Marey), a high-speed camera from 1882.
I immediately think of Marey and Muybridge's movement studies from the early 19th century. Their research and methodologies are still so current. They were the first to study movement with the use of the then novel technology of photography. They studied for example the precise movements of birds in flight and horses galloping, that are hard to study with the human eye alone. Their images are famous and both actually also invented their own tools to do their studies, such as the [*sphygmograph*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sphygmograph)(pulse meter wearable from 1863) and the [*chronophotographic gun*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89tienne-Jules_Marey), a high-speed camera from 1882.
...
@@ -164,7 +166,7 @@ After playing around quite a bit I ended up with this marble-ous torso figure re
...
@@ -164,7 +166,7 @@ After playing around quite a bit I ended up with this marble-ous torso figure re


##Part 3: Cultural Bodies, Cultural Measurements
##Research 3: Cultural Representations in Numbers: What is a Measuring System Made of?
Also, the way the body - and how it is captured and measured - is inscribed with culture is not addressed in Marey and Muybridge's work. For that we look elsewhere, such as in....
Also, the way the body - and how it is captured and measured - is inscribed with culture is not addressed in Marey and Muybridge's work. For that we look elsewhere, such as in....
...
@@ -184,7 +186,7 @@ Somewhat related is designer Lucas Maassen's workshop [Meten is Weten](https://e
...
@@ -184,7 +186,7 @@ Somewhat related is designer Lucas Maassen's workshop [Meten is Weten](https://e
## Experiment 3: Beyond accuracy, toward material truthfulness- a *less* measurable model
## Experiment 3: Beyond Numerical or Cartesian Accuracy, toward Material Truthfulness?
To allow her to be unruly, I thought to think of a technique that prevent her from being captured with standardized measuring systems with any precision. How could I abstract her in a truthful way, without re-presenting her with the kind of razorblade precision that measure-controls her down to the mm? In the time I have left, with the limited skills I have, can I find a way of re-presenting a body by rendering it in a way that is clearly not meant to be realistic or truthful? Render the body in a way that points to its inherent artificiality, and showing the digital material it is made of?
To allow her to be unruly, I thought to think of a technique that prevent her from being captured with standardized measuring systems with any precision. How could I abstract her in a truthful way, without re-presenting her with the kind of razorblade precision that measure-controls her down to the mm? In the time I have left, with the limited skills I have, can I find a way of re-presenting a body by rendering it in a way that is clearly not meant to be realistic or truthful? Render the body in a way that points to its inherent artificiality, and showing the digital material it is made of?
...
@@ -213,12 +215,12 @@ At 95% I started losing details in the face. And at 99% (300 faces) it started g
...
@@ -213,12 +215,12 @@ At 95% I started losing details in the face. And at 99% (300 faces) it started g
<br>
<br>
*Playing around with reducing the number of polygons, in the end I reduced the model to 200 faces (in purple)*
*Playing around with reducing the number of polygons, in the end I reduced the model to 200 faces (in purple)*
##Material choices *before* fabrication design
###Material choices *before* fabrication design
I'd prefer not to go overboard creating this assignment, as it's unlikely I'll be *using* intensively, so I'll try to reduce the amount of materials required to produce the torso. The material provided by is 4-8 sheets of corrugated cardboard, with dimensions of 1160 X 960 cm and a thickness of 3mm.
I'd prefer not to go overboard creating this assignment, as it's unlikely I'll be *using* intensively, so I'll try to reduce the amount of materials required to produce the torso. The material provided by is 4-8 sheets of corrugated cardboard, with dimensions of 1160 X 960 cm and a thickness of 3mm.
Stacking slices makes for a nice solid mannequin with a lot of detail but easily eats up more than 20 cardboard sheets. So you will see I've opted for the folded panels technique using Slicer (see below), and estimated I'd get better results using 300gms colored paper because it allows me to fold the vertices using tongue connections (see below). I got my go-to heavy duty paper: [Florentino 300gms at Van der Linde in Amsterdam](https://www.vanderlindewebshop.com/nl/catalog/papier-karton/gekleurd-papier/van-der-linde-gekleurd-papier-en-karton/florentino-gekleurd-papier-300-grams/g+c+bg+a).
Stacking slices makes for a nice solid mannequin with a lot of detail but easily eats up more than 20 cardboard sheets. So you will see I've opted for the folded panels technique using Slicer (see below), and estimated I'd get better results using 300gms colored paper because it allows me to fold the vertices using tongue connections (see below). I got my go-to heavy duty paper: [Florentino 300gms at Van der Linde in Amsterdam](https://www.vanderlindewebshop.com/nl/catalog/papier-karton/gekleurd-papier/van-der-linde-gekleurd-papier-en-karton/florentino-gekleurd-papier-300-grams/g+c+bg+a).
##Translating 3D model into flat design plans with Slicer
###Translating 3D model into flat design plans with Slicer
I installed [Slicer for Mac](https://apps.autodesk.com/FUSION/en/Detail/Index?id=8699194120463301363&appLang=en&os=Mac&autostart=true) and imported my .STL file. The orientation was wrong so I changed it to Z on import and then clicked the rounded arrow button a few times to get the thing up straight.
I installed [Slicer for Mac](https://apps.autodesk.com/FUSION/en/Detail/Index?id=8699194120463301363&appLang=en&os=Mac&autostart=true) and imported my .STL file. The orientation was wrong so I changed it to Z on import and then clicked the rounded arrow button a few times to get the thing up straight.
...
@@ -232,12 +234,12 @@ I ended up with 6 sheets, which I thought was good enough. But the nesting algor
...
@@ -232,12 +234,12 @@ I ended up with 6 sheets, which I thought was good enough. But the nesting algor