docs/files/recipes/mordants_tannins.md

+# MORDANTS & TANNINS
+
+##GENERAL INFORMATION
+
+Processes for *pre-mordanting* textiles and fibres is discussed here. Simultaneous and post-mordanting is also possible. 
+
+**Physical form**
+
+Pastes, gels & liquids
+
+Mordants, tannins and binders to lock pigments to fibres, for more colorfast dyeing with natural dyes
+
+**Fabrication time**
+
+Preparation time: variable 
+
+Processing time: variable
+
+Need attention: variable
+
+Final form achieved after: a couple hours, up to a week
+
+**Estimated cost (consumables)**
+
+variable
+
+##RECIPE
+
+###Ingredients
+
+One of these or a combination (see below):
+
+* **Alum** (*potassium aluminium sulfate dodecahydrate*)
+* **Cream of Tartar** *(tartaric acid)*
+* **Oak galls**, the whole nut, or powder (*galnut extract, gallotannic acid*)
+* **Soda ash** *(sodium carbonate)*
+* **Soy milk** (soya milk), unflavoured, unsweetened
+* **Symplocos** (*symplocos cochinchinensis, horse sugar, sweetleaf*), leaves or powder, a plant-based alum mordant, e.g. from the Bebali Foundation. Use the yellow ones that have fallen off the shrubs naturally. 
+* **Iron sulphate** (*ferrous sulfate*) powder
+* **Iron liquor** (*ferrous acetate*) made at home by putting rusty nails or other iron scraps in vinegar for a few weeks.
+
+
+###Tools
+
+1. **Big pan**, ideally stainless steel, that is *only* used for dyeing, not for cooking
+1. **Precision scale**
+1. **A spoon**, only used for dyeing, not for preparing food
+1. **Household gloves**
+1. **Tongs**, only used for dyeing, not for preparing food
+
+###Yield
+
+Varies
+
+
+###Method
+
+
+#### Scouring
+
+Dissolve 10% WoF sodacarbonate (soda ash) in hot water. Add damp fibre and let it soak for a few hours, or heat it (max 80 Celcius for protein fibre)
+
+#### Soaking
+
+Some suggest to soak silk for 24h before the dye bath, and wool 30 mins before. I'm not sure if this is suggested for unmordanted fibre and mordanted fibres alike. 
+
+####Mordanting
+
+**General rules of thumb:**
+
+* use 3 L water per 100 g weight of dry fibre (WoF)
+* preferably heat up the water slowly
+* don't shock protein fibre, always rinse with warm water, never heat above 75 degrees celcius. 
+* Know that there are a lot of recipes, best is to start a collection where you make small tests you can compare (be sure to write everything down very precisely). 
+* *steeping* (letting the fibre sit in the mordant bath overnight or longer) and *curing* (drying the mordanted fibre and leaving it alone for a few days before dyeing) allows the mordants to set, some recommend it. 
+* Use rainwater as much as possible
+* You can reuse alum baths to save water and mordant. To recharge the bath, add 25-50% additional dissolved alum, or 1 additional teaspoon per 100 grams of fiber, stir and mordant as above. If you observe excessive cloudiness or large flakes floating in the bath, it is time to change it (after 5 times or so). The same probably works for the other mordants (not tested).
+* Mordanted fibers may be stored damp in a plastic bag and refrigerated for 3-5 days and cured or aged, as this also seems to increase the depth of shade in the dyed fibers.  
+
+**Safety**
+
+Keep dye tools and utensils separate from kitchen tools. Natural does not mean non-toxic! None of this is made for eating or drinking so keep it separate at all times. Alum may be safely disposed in a municipal water system by pouring down the drain.
+
+##**PROTEIN FIBRES**
+
+### Alum (hot)
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Bring to 80 degrees Celcius and let simmer for an hour. Some suggest to steep overnight or even for 3-5 days in the mordant bath. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Alum (cold) 
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Steep for 3-4 weeks inside the mordant bath, stir occassionally. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Alum + Cream of Tartar (for wool)
+
+Cream of Tarter (NL: Wijnsteenzuur) is said to keep wool shiny and soft and brightens the colors. Take your pick: 
+
+* 15-20% alum and 5% CoT (Cecilia Raspanti)
+* 8% Alum and 5% CoT (Botanical Colors)
+* 4/8/12% alum and 3/6/8% CoT (Roos Soetekauw)
+
+Dissolve separately in hot water before adding to a pot. Enough water so the fibres can "swim". Heat slowly to 75 degrees Celcius, keep there for 30-60 minutes. Let steep overnight. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Symplocos (for wool)
+
+Bark of Lodrah (*symplocos racemosa* or *symplocos cochinchinensis*  or *symplocos tinctoria*, all sold as *symplocos*) is a plant that grows on acidic soil and is naturally high in alum. It is cultivated in Asia (e.g. Bebali Foundation in Indonesia) and the Americas. 
+
+20-50% WoF (Botanical Colors) 
+
+Boil the symplocos leaves for 30 minutes at 80 degrees Celcius or until they sink to the bottom of the pot. Let the pot cool to 40 degrees C. Use 50% WoF when you use leaves, or less when using powder. 
+
+Add the fibre and slowly bring pot back to 80 degrees C. Keep there for another 30-60 mins. Rinse the fibre with warm water, it should be slightly yellow now (this will disappear during dyeing). 
+
+Another plant that is known to by naturally high in alum is club moss (NL: wolfsklauw).
+
+### Soy milk (for silk)
+
+In Japan silk is treated with soy milk (see protein recipe below for suggested process). 
+
+### Iron sulphate
+
+0.25 - 1% WoF (when using powder)
+
+Dissolve in hot water before adding to the mordant bath. Mordant fibres for 45-60 mins, rinse. Iron mordant baths can be used to shift color (cold or hot) multiple times, just dip a dyed swatch into the iron bath until the desired color is achieved.  For more info, see below. 
+
+
+##**CELLULOSE FIBRES**
+
+### Alum (hot)
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Bring to 80 degrees Celcius and let simmer for an hour. Some suggest to steep overnight or even for 3-5 days in the mordant bath. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Alum (cold) 
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Steep for 3-4 weeks inside the mordant bath, stir occassionally. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Tannin | Alum  
+
+**Step 1: Tannin bath**
+
+10% WoF Gallo-tannin or Tara powder
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add fiber, let it sit for 1-2 hours (no need to heat). Do _**not**_ rinse (or do rinse, like Kim Eichler Messner). But do also try with heating and an overnight steep.
+
+**Step 2: Alum bath**
+
+10-15% WoF Alum
+
+Some add  1.5% Soda ash to this bath (Roos Soetekauw, Kim Eichler Messner)
+
+Dissolve separately in hot water, add together (will create bubbles). Add water and fibre. Boil for 1 hour, steep overnight. Rinse. 
+
+Tannins are for lightfastness. The tannin is not strongly attached to the fiber but adding alum bonds it into place. Oak galls (6-10%), myrobalan, tara powder (10%), sumac, pomegranate (10%), quebracho moreno, walnut hulls and cutch all are good tannins. But some also add color. Oak galls and tara powder are clear, light tannins. 
+
+### Alum + Soda | Soy milk
+
+Treating fibre with alkaline bath and then high-protein bath allows pigment to attach to the fibre more easily. In a way the cellulose will behave more like protein. Milks arent mordants though: they don't chemically bind to the fibre). They are binders and will wash away eventually. 
+
+**Step 1:  Alkaline bath**
+
+2-3% alum | 2% soda 
+
+Dissolve each separately in hot water before combining into a mordant bath. Fibres should be able to "swim". Simmer for 1 hour, and let cool overnight. Rinse before the second bath. Some use fibres without the second bath. 
+
+**Step 2: Protein bath**
+
+(soy) milk to water 1:1 - 1:10
+
+Ratios soy milk to water vary: 1:1 - 1:5 - 1:10. One recipe mentions to add 1 tbsp of soda per 100 ml milk. 
+
+Generally: let the fibre soak in the milk mix for 8-24 hours. Squeeze it out, and let it dry. Then dip again (quick dip so you don't wash off the previous layer), squeeze out, let dry. Repeat again if you wish. 
+
+Then let the fabric cure for a week. **_Don't rinse_** it at any stage! This can be done with soy milk but also rice milk and cow's milk. 
+
+Also cow, goat and sheep's milk work. Or soaking acorns or almonds overnight and blending them can create a protein rich solution (Roos Soetekauw). Other protein baths are: gelatine, blood, yogurt.
+ 
+### Tannin + Symplocos
+
+**Step 1: Tannin bath**
+
+10% WoF Gallo-tannin or Tara powder 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add fiber, let soak for 1-2 hours (no need to heat)
+
+**Step 2: Symplocos (alkaline) bath**
+
+20-50% WoF Symplocos (Botanical Colors)
+
+Boil the symplocos leaves for 30 minutes at 80 degrees Celcius until they sink to the bottom of the pot. Add the fibre and simmer for another 60 mins. Let it steep overnight. Rinse the fibre with warm water, it should be slightly yellow now (this will disappear during dyeing). 
+
+Another plant that is known to by naturally high in alum is club moss (NL: wolfsklauw).
+
+### Other mordants and tannins
+
+Urine, egg white, blood, ashes, ammonia, myrobalan, sumac, walnut hulls, chestnut hulls, rhubarb leaves, chitin, mango bark, aloe vera leaves, cub moss (NL: wolfsklauw) and many more.
+
+There's renewed interest in plant-based mordants rather than metal-based mordants which would always require some kind of mining, disturbing waterways and natural areas. Look for natural *bioaccummulators* of soil metals: the metals naturally occurring in the earth. These plants can live in very acidic environments, symplocos being one of them, but also club moss.  
+
+### Iron sulphate
+
+0.25 - 3% WoF (when using powder)
+
+Dissolve in hot water before adding to the mordant bath. Mordant fibres for 45-60 mins, rinse. Iron mordant baths can be used to shift color (cold or hot) multiple times, just dip a dyed swatch into the iron bath until the desired color is achieved. 
+
+Iron sulphate is the least polluting after alum and is a waste product. It should be mostly absorbed by the textile so the mordant baths can be discarded safely. But this is hard to say in home dyeing and one can wonder if it's desirable to wear textiles on the body that contain iron sulphate. Although some studies have shown that they are safe, one cannot tell when dyeing DIY. Better option is to invest in different cooking pot (a tin pot, copper pot, aluminium pot, castiron pot). Dyeing in these metal pots will give off a little bit of the metals to boost the dyes, but are all absorbed in the textile. Other heavy metal mordants are not recommended because they have larger ecological impacts. 
+
+Iron mordant baths may be discarded in municipal waste systems (down the drain), don't dump directly in nature though. **Safety note:** always wear gloves when using this, wear goggles and a mouth mask when measureing iron sulphate powder, and keep away from pets. 
+
+You can make your own iron mordant (called iron liquor or *ferrous acetate*) by putting some scrap metals - like old nails - in a glass jar and cover it vinegar (or part vinegar, part water) This won't be as precise because the amount of iron sulphate increases overtime. Just start with adding a little bit to a pot of water and add more until you achieve the color you want. 
+
+Seal with a lid and let it get rusty for 2 weeks. Label it and keep away from pets and kids. 
+
+
+###Process Pictures
+
+
+
+
+###Variations
+
+See above
+
+
+##ORIGINS & REFERENCES
+
+**Cultural origins of this recipe**
+
+
+
+**Needs further research?**   Not sure
+
+###Key Sources
+
+
+
+###Copyright information 
+
+
+##ETHICS & SUSTAINABILITY
+
+
+
+**Sustainability tags**
+
+- Renewable ingredients: yes (except alum)
+- Vegan: yes
+- Made of by-products or waste:  no
+- Biocompostable final product:  yes
+- Re-use: yes, mordant baths can be reused. For each next bath, add 25-50% of the original mordant to replenish the bath. 
+
+Needs further research?:  Not sure
+
+
+##PROPERTIES
+
+- **Color fastness:** variable
+- **Light fastness:** variable
+- **Washability:** variable
+- **Color modifiers:** N/A
+- **Odor**: moderate
+- **Suitable fibres**: see above
+
+##ABOUT
+
+**Maker(s) of this sample**
+
+- Name: Loes Bogers
+- Affiliation: Fabricademy student at Waag Textile Lab Amsterdam
+- Location:  Amsterdam, the Netherlands
+- Date: 20-10-2020 - 22-10-2020
+
+**Environmental conditions**
+
+- Humidity:  40-50%
+- Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
+- Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
+- PH tap water:  7-8
+
+**Recipe validation**
+
+Has recipe been validated? No
+
+**Images of the final sample**
+
+![](../../images/finalpicslalala.jpg)*Title, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+
+
+##REFERENCES
+
+- **Natuurlijk Verven, Grand Teints** by Jantine Koobs, Textielmuseum Tilburg, 2018: [link](https://textielmuseum.nl/uploads/content/BTME001.pdf)
+
+- **Natuurlijk Verven** by Roos Soetekauw, *Issuu*, 2011: [link](https://issuu.com/roossoetekouw/docs/scriptie_-_natuurlijk_verven_klein)
+ 
+- **Mordanting with Cow's Milk** by Louise Upshall, *Gumnut Magic*, 2018: [link](https://www.gumnutmagic.com/mordanting-with-cows-milk/)
+
+- **Ecoprint op Katoen** by Nienke Smit, *Verfvirus*, 2015 [link](https://www.verfvirus.nl/2015/08/ecoprint-op-katoen-voorbeitsen.html)
+
+- **Natural Dyes, A Primer for Using Mordant Dyes on Cellulose Fabric** by Kim Eichler Messner (n.d.), *Kim E.M. Quilts*: [link](https://www.kimemquilts.com/s/Kim-E-M-Natural-Dye-Primer.pdf)
+
+- **How to Mordant with Symplocos** by *Botanical Colors*, n.d. [link](https://botanicalcolors.com/botanical-colors-how-tos/how-to-mordant-with-symplocos/)
+
+- **How to Mordant** by Botanical Colors, n.d. [link](https://botanicalcolors.com/how-to-mordant/)
+
+- **Art and Science of Natural Dyes Principles, Experiments and Results** by Joy Boutrup and Catherine Ellis, Schiffer Publishing, 2018. 
+ 
+- **Chitin - Another eco-friendly mordant for natural dyes**, by A. Poornima and A. Sharada Devi, *ResearchGate*, August 2007, [link](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/295368867_Chitin_-_Another_eco-friendly_mordant_for_natural_dyes)
+
+- **Dyeing of Wool Fabric Using Natural Dye and Natural Mordant Extracts** by Taame Berhanu Teklemedhin, *Trends in Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology*, Vol 4, Issue 4, 2018: [link](https://crimsonpublishers.com/tteft/fulltext/TTEFT.000593.php)
+
+- **Extraction and Optimization of Natural Dye from Hambo Hambo (Cassia singueana) Plant Used for Coloration of Tanned Leather Materials** by Taame Berhanu and Saminathan Ratnapandian, *Advances in Materials Science and Engineering*, 2017: [link](https://www.hindawi.com/journals/amse/2017/7516409/)
+
+- **Alum Mordanting Again**, by Jenny Dean, *Jenny Dean's Wild Color*, 2009: [link](https://www.jennydean.co.uk/alum-mordanting-again/)
+
+- **Iron Mordant Solution** by Sasha Duerr, 2013, *Mother Earth News*: [link](https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/home/iron-mordant-solution-ze0z1312zbla)
+
+- **A New Approach To Plant-Derived Mordants** by Mel Sweetnam, *Mamie's Schoolhouse*, 2020: [link](https://www.mamiesschoolhouse.com/blogarchive/2020/4/25/a-new-approach-to-plants-as-mordants)
+
+- **Global Hyperaccumulator Database** by *SMI CMLR, Center for Mined Land Rehabilitation*, [link](http://hyperaccumulators.smi.uq.edu.au/collection/)
+
+- **Understanding Mordants** by *Griffin Dyeworks & Fiber Arts*, 2012 [link](http://griffindyeworks.com/understanding-mordants/alumtanninalum.html)
\ No newline at end of file

docs/files/recipes/oniondye.md

@@ -73,7 +73,7 @@ Approx. 200 ml
 
 1. **Dyeing with onion dye**
 
-	- Optional (not necessary) mordant the fibres with alum for color fastness
+	- Optional (preferred) mordant the fibres with alum or other mordant for color fastness
 	- Put the wet fibres in the dyebath and simmer for an hour, then leave overnight
 	- Rinse and dry
 	- Optional: modify with PH modifiers 

docs/files/recipes/phmodifiers.md

@@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ Final form achieved after: N/A
 ###Ingredients
 
 * **Water - 1000 L**, the solvent, ideally has a PH of 7.
-* **Soda ash - 5g**, to make an alkaline solution (PH 8-PH 13)
+* **Soda ash - 5g** (sodium carbonate Na2CO3), to make an alkaline solution (PH 8-PH 13)
 * **Citric acid - g** OR: 150 ml of vinegar or lemon juice, to make an acidic solution (PH 1 -PH 6). Citric acid is sold in asian supermarkets and has very high acidity (more than vinegar and lemon juice)
 * **Red cabage dye - 50 ml** see [this recipe](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/cabbagedye/). Alcohol-based cabage ink is also fine. 
 * **A large round coffee filter**, ideally white ones. To make PH strips. If you can't find these, get 4 smaller filters and cut them open so you have only one layer. 

docs/index.md

@@ -42,5 +42,5 @@ Fun fact: I know Shirley back from when I did the Fabacademy in 2015. It put a l
 
 ## Why fabricademy?
 
-I'm able to join the Fabricademy with the generous support of my employer (the Amsterdam Univeristy of Applied Sciences). This program directly ties in with some current developments: there's recently been a great interest in practices that could be called critical making, which has been a research interest of mine. And we're looking to expand our research and education more specifically toward critical making in the context of the fashion industry. What would be a better place to get started than here? This truly is a bucket list moment. The focus on sustainability in combination with digital fabrication tooling, specific to the area of application of textiles and fashion is very powerful. Stoked!
+I'm able to join the Fabricademy with the generous support of my employer (the Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences). This program directly ties in with some current developments: there's recently been a great interest in practices that could be called critical making, which has been a research interest of mine. And we're looking to expand our research and education more specifically toward critical making in the context of the fashion industry. What would be a better place to get started than here? This truly is a bucket list moment. The focus on sustainability in combination with digital fabrication tooling, specific to the area of application of textiles and fashion is very powerful. Stoked!
 

docs/projects/archiving_new_naturals.md

@@ -4,6 +4,8 @@
 
 ##towards a context-aware global material commons: what's in *your* local archive?
 
+by Loes Bogers, 2020
+
 The goal of this project was to explore and develop methods for open archiving of socalled "new naturals". "New" or "other" naturals are not a thing (yet). But we can see this concept being used in material archives, as container category for materials that don't fit the traditional material families of wood, hide, metal, glass, plastics, stone, etcetera. New or other naturals is a left-over tag to indicate composite or otherwise hybrid materials made from renewable natural resources such as food waste, plant fibres etcetera. 
 
 With the following tools and templates to facilitate collaborative, global - but context-aware and localized - documenting and archiving of "new naturals": 
@@ -14,7 +16,7 @@ With the following tools and templates to facilitate collaborative, global - but
 - that promotes an open-source attitude to the development of design materials, and credits the work done by others before you;
 - that acknowledges all those practical questions: from buying the right kind of ingredients, all the way to tips and tricks for that challenging phase of controlled drying and curing materials to its "final" form;
 - that is explained in layman's terms, demystifying ingredients and processes without oversimplifying them;
-- imaging collaborative open archiving that can facilitate critique, contestations, suggestions, updates and reviews from peers;
+- imaging collaborative open archiving that can facilitate critique, describe dilemmas, suggestions, updates and reviews from peers;
 - offering a package that allows novices to learn, and educators to get started in a systematic way...
 - ... and encourages experienced material designers to "stay with the trouble" and to continue asking those tough critical questions regarding sustainability, resource and waste streams, and to share those considerations with each recipe or ingredient.
 
@@ -26,7 +28,7 @@ The outcomes of the selection are threefold: 1) a number of documentation tools
 
 ###1. Tools and templates for documenting "new naturals"
 
-- [**a manifesto for archiving new naturals**](../outcomes/new_naturals_manifesto), comprised of a list of considerations I've come to find very helpful in thinking about the archiving practices of new naturals;
+- [**the start of a manifesto for archiving new naturals**](../outcomes/new_naturals_manifesto), comprised of a list of considerations I've come to find very helpful in thinking about the archiving practices of new naturals;
 - [**a video tutorial**](../outcomes/tools_and_templates/tactilityvideo/) for capturing the tactile experience of material samples
 - [**a template to document recipes**](../outcomes/tools_and_templates/recipe_template/), to help you capture the entire process, while asking the hard contextual questions and document relevant considerations when developing new recipes and consideration applications and scale. Colleague fabricademer Beatriz Sandini tested and used the templates to document the recipes of her project [Ephemeral Fashion Lab](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/beatriz.sandini/projects/0-final-project/). 
 - [**a template to document ingredients**](../outcomes/tools_and_templates/ingredient_template/), helping you ask the hard questions and document relevant considerations - such as local abundace and distance from source - for adopting new ingredients and additives, also in terms of upscaling.
@@ -36,7 +38,7 @@ The outcomes of the selection are threefold: 1) a number of documentation tools
 
 ###2. Core recipes for starting your own *new naturals* sample archive
 
-Making material samples myself was the core part of the research process. It required making these (and actually many more) recipes, and trying to craft different physical forms to arrive at the important questions to ask biofabricated materials. Questions such as: when do you demould a bioplastic? How long does it take before it reached its final form and doesn't shrink anymore? Where does this recipe even come from? Is biodegradable necessarily more sustainable? Which factors makes a material sustainable? If it is sustainable, what other arguments might there be that make a material contested or controversial to use? 
+Making material samples myself was the core part of the research process. It required making these (and actually many more) recipes, and trying to craft different physical forms to arrive at the important questions to ask biofabricated materials. Questions such as: when do you demould a bioplastic? How long does it take before it reached its final form and doesn't shrink anymore? Where does this recipe even come from? Is biodegradable necessarily more sustainable? Which factors makes a material sustainable? If it is sustainable, what other arguments might there be that make a material contested or controversial to use? Are there dilemmas to consider?
 
 As a result of that process of making, wondering and questioning, [**a selection of 24 foundational recipes**](../outcomes/24_core_recipes/) is documented here, showing the research process, but also allowing anyone to start a physical sample archive with "new natural" materials. All of these materials are easily and harmlessly absorbed by nature within 90 days and/or can be turned into compost, moreover, most are home-compostable *without* controlled conditions that require industrial composting facilities following EU guidelines. And/or the material can be re-used with no or little additional resources. Biodegradability as a sustainability label is too often used to greenwash e.g. disposable packaging materials, so these criteria were chosen as point of departure.
 
@@ -53,9 +55,8 @@ Since this project was developed in the Netherlands, the consideration was to ta
 
 The collection contains different techniques in biofabrication to give a novice material designer a wide range of methods to explore the potential of the natural resources around them. I want to stress that these recipes are not my inventions, nor are they new. They are my personal variations at best, and this part of the work is heavily indebted to the knowledge collected and created in and around the Fabricademy network and other design and DIY biology communities, and also builds upon the (physical) Material Archive at Textile Lab Waag that was realised by Cecilia Raspanti, Maria Viftrup and others from 2016 onwards. Where it was known or identifyable, the related work and cultural origins of the techniques are referenced in each recipe. Techniques include: 
 
-- ***polymerization by cooking*** e.g. bioplastics
-- ***curing*** bioplastics with natural compounds (e.g. calcification of algae-based plastic)
-- ***extracting*** natural pigments in the form of inks and dyes
+- ***hacking biopolymers*** using various techniques for renewable biopolymers, borrowed from cooking and chemistry e.g. algae-based bioplastics
+- ***extracting*** natural renewable pigments in the form of inks and dyes
 - ***growing*** microbial cultures for leather alternatives and bacterial dyes
 - ***crystallization*** of molecules into organized forms (crystals)
 - ***re-use*** of biodegradable bioplastics such as PLA (for which reuse is considered the better end of life cycle option)
@@ -162,12 +163,15 @@ Lastly, there seems to be a danger with such recipe books because they often tak
  
 [Materiom](https://materiom.org/) is a great initiative that takes the open-source, DIY, renewable-only approach, and makes efforts to collect and present recipes in a beautifully designed environment that is accessible online. Users can add their own recipes so the archive can continue to grow. Beautiful photography makes these materials very appealing and desirable as a design material. 
 
-In the same way that family recipes are contested, and cooks claim to have the "ultimate" recipe to a ragu bolognese, material recipes will be contested. We've seen this in the myriad ways people craft and form materials in the context of this Fabricademy course. Great value could be added if collaborative databases also facilitated debate, feedback and forking of recipes. With detailed peer reviews and simple rating tools we might be able start to see patterns as to which technique work best for whom. Where are they in the world? What are their environmental conditions and which type of ingredient are they using? 
+In the same way that family recipes are contested, and cooks claim to have the "ultimate" recipe to a ragu bolognese, material recipes will be contestedand pose dilemmas in terms of sustainability, techniques and origins. We've seen this in the myriad ways people craft and form materials in the context of this Fabricademy course. Great value could be added if collaborative databases also facilitated debate, feedback and forking of recipes. With detailed peer reviews and simple rating tools we might be able start to see patterns as to which technique work best for whom. Where are they in the world? What are their environmental conditions and which type of ingredient are they using? 
 
 A platform like Materiom might also benefit from acknowledging more explicitly where these crafts practices are coming from, and taking a more critical stance as to when something is *more sustainable*. As no material is perfect or without issues, we need more concrete handles for assessing the ethics of using certain materials in particular context or applications. Expanding the amount and type of entry fields required when submitting a new recipe could potentially help our community of "material nerds" deepen their understanding of what they are working with, so material activism extends beyond the ecological, into the social, cultural, political, and technical. 
 
 ![](../images/stopmotionstand.jpg)*Shooting a tactility impression for archiving, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
+##View online at
+https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/projects/archiving_new_naturals/ 
+
 ##References
 
 - **Wat is composteerbaar?** (EN: What is compostable?), Online composteerwijzer, Vlaco, n.d. [link](https://www.vlaco.be/thuiskringlopen/thuiscomposteren/wat-is-composteerbaar)

docs/projects/outcomes/24_core_recipes.md

@@ -5,7 +5,7 @@
 | [![](../../images/finalpics-16_foam_GOOD.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biofoam/) Biofoam | [![](../../images/finalpics-67.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biofoilextraflexible) Gelatin foil |[![](../../images/finalpics-37.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/bioresin) Bioresin | [![](../../images/finalpics-45_silicone.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biosilicon) Biosilicone |
 |[![](../../images/finalpics-47.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biorubber) Starch Rubber | [![](../../images/finalpics-56.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biolino) Biolinoleum | [![](../../images/finalpics-3.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alginatenet) Alginate net | [![](../../images/finalpics-52.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alginatefoil) Alginate foil |
 | [![](../../images/finalpics-72.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alginatestring) Alginate string | [![](../../images/finalpics-80.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/agarfoil) Agar foil | [![](../../images/finalpics-58.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/agarcomposite) Bio composite | [![](../../images/finalpics-61.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/recycledPLA)Reused PLA |
-|[![](../../images/finalpics-4.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alumcrystalsilk)Alum crystals|[![](../../images/finalpics_reexported-3.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/kombuchascoby)Kombucha scoby|[![](../../images/finalpics-14.jpg) ](../../../files/recipes/kombuchapaper) Kombucha paper|[![](../../images/finalpics-127.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/flowerpaper)Flower paper|
+|[![](../../images/finalpics-4.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alumcrystalsilk)Alum crystals|[![](../../images/finalpics_reexported-3.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/kombuchascoby)Kombucha scoby|[![](../../images/finalpics-14.jpg) ](../../../files/recipes/kombuchapaper) Kombucha foil|[![](../../images/finalpics-127.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/flowerpaper)Flower paper|
 |[![](../../images/finalpics-20.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/mangoleather) Mango leather |[![](../../images/finalpics_reexported-2.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/bananaclay) Banana Clay | [![](../../images/finalpics-76.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/fishskin) Fish leather |  [![](../../images/finalpics_reexported-1.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/phmodifiers) PH modifiers |
 |[![](../../images/finalpics-115.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/cabbagedye) Cabbage dye | [![](../../images/finalpics-143.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/oniondye) Onion dye |[![](../../images/finalpics-83.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/madderdye) Madder dye |[![](../../images/finalpics-124.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/bacterialdye) Bacterial dye | 
 
@@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ These are the material samples I crafted over the course of this project. There
 
 **Putting my recipe templates into practice**
 
-The recipes ask all the questions that came up during my learning and research process that formed the foundation for the recipe templates. Questions that come up as you learn might be: how do you know when to demould a bioresin? How long does it take before it reached its final form and doesn't shrink anymore? Where does this recipe even come from? What makes a material sustainable? If it is sustainable, what other arguments might there be that make a material contested or controversial to use? Some questions don't have answers yet because they require further research. Consider them invitations to continue the exploration. 
+The recipes ask all the questions that came up during my learning and research process that formed the foundation for the recipe templates. Questions that come up as you learn might be: how do you know when to demould a bioresin? How long does it take before it reached its final form and doesn't shrink anymore? Where does this recipe even come from? What makes a material sustainable? If it is sustainable, what other arguments might there be that make a material contested or controversial to use? Are there dilemmas to consider? Some questions don't have answers yet because they require further research. Consider them invitations to continue the exploration. 
 
 ![](../../images/pics-insta1.jpg)*Biofabricating alginate string, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 

docs/projects/outcomes/tools_and_templates/example_glycerine.md

+
+![](../../../images/glycerine.png)
+
+*Vegetable-based glycerine from the brand OrphiFarma*
+
+
+# GLYCERINE 
+
+
+(glycerin, glycerol)
+
+**What is it and how is it produced or sourced?**
+
+Glycerin is a sugar alcohol derived from animal products, plants or petroleum (as a by-product of biofuel). It can also be obtained from microalgae oils, and it can be recovered from used cooking oil. Not all of these are equally common however.
+
+Vegetable glycerin is made by heating triglyceride-rich vegetable fats — such as palm, soy and coconut oils — under pressure, using heat, and/or together with a strong alkali, such as lye, which causes the glycerin to split away from the fatty acids and mix together with water, forming an odorless, sweet-tasting, syrup-like liquid. During WWI and WWII, glycerine was produced by fermentation as well, but there routes have not been under-utilized by industry because it could not compete with chemical synthesis from petrochemical compounds. 
+
+With necessary precaution you can make glycerine yourself.
+
+**What are its possible functions in biofabricating?**
+
+*e.g. plasticizer, filler, colorant, PH modifier, mordant, solvent, release agent, curing agent, softener, and so on*
+
+Vegetable glycerin softens and hydrates human skin, increasing smoothness and suppleness. It is often used in skincare and also works as a laxative. It has antimicrobial and antiviral properties. It has many possible functions (as many as 1583 uses have been listed by the Glycerine Producers Association in 1945), but here are a few that are particularly useful in biofabication:
+
+- plasticizer for more flexible bioplastics
+- moisturizer or softener in fish leather tanning (e.g. fish leather)
+- additive for soap bubble mixes
+- solvent for	 pigment extraction (not documented here)
+
+**Processing information**
+
+Dissolves in:	cold and hot water, and alcohol
+PH value:		5
+
+**Selecting the right type**
+
+*How do you know if you are getting the right type (in nature/at the shop)? Or can you use any? For example, carbonate and bicarbonate soda are significantly different, but you may find it is referred to as "soda"*
+
+Look for glycerin(e) or glycerol. In the U.S., glycerin(e) is a brand name for a purified variety of 95%, with glycerol being the principal component. In Europe, glycerol is more widely applied interchangeably. Smaller bottles are often more expensive. You might need to contact the supplier about the origins of the product if you want to know before. Choose a plant-based glycerine, it should state on the label what it is made of.
+
+## Local abundance
+
+**Where are you located?**
+
+Rotterdam, the Netherlands
+
+**Can this ingredient be found in nature there?**
+
+No, it is a processed ingredient. But it can be produced almost anywhere. Try to find a vegetable-based glycerine that is produced regionally or locally. 
+
+**If not, please describe or list local suppliers and price**
+
+In the Netherlands, Orphi is an affordable vegetable-based glycerin brand. This ingredient is best purchased online, in 1 litre bottles. 
+
+and costs about 6 Euros per 1000 ml (1L). 
+
+**If store-bought, find out where the ingredient was produced. How far is the production source from where you are?**
+
+In Portugal: less than 2000 km from site of use
+
+##Eco-compatibility
+
+*Type and amount of energy used to produce this ingredient, e.g. does it require a lot of water, heat, chemicals?*
+
+The production of glycerine requires heat and pressure, and sometimes strong alkali, like lye. It it also a product of fermentation processes but this is less efficient and cannot yet compete with synthetic methods. 
+
+**Toxicity**
+
+*Is this ingredient toxic to humans/animals?*
+
+No. But some people have an allergic skin reaction to vegetable glycerine. 
+
+**Distance from origin to site of use** 
+
+*In which region(s) of the world is this produced? Is it related to specific natural contexts or industries (e.g. near sea or rivers, in hot humid climates).*
+
+Depends on the way it is produced, but there are many methods. Needs further research.
+
+**Shelf life** 
+
+*Look up shelf life & expiry date, but also use of senses to check: can you see when it’s off, can you smell it?*
+
+Shelf life: years if unopened, check smell
+
+**Vegan**
+
+*Is it made without the use of any animal products?*
+
+Yes/No, depends on the method of production
+
+
+**Is this a by-product is it found in a waste stream?**
+
+*Is this ingredient a by-product or does it come from waste streams*	
+Yes, it *can* be a by-product of biofuel production and/or soap production, but this is not always the case. 
+
+**Renewable**
+
+*Can this resource be naturally replenished on a human timescale?*
+
+Yes
+
+*What do you know about how long it takes for this ingredient regrow?Which plants/micro organisms grow this ingredient? How long does it take them to regenerate? Under which conditions?*
+
+- Glycerine from soy: byproduct of soybean biodiesel industry
+- Glycerine from palm oil: kernels of palm fruits are harvested all year round. But is also connected to deforestation issues.
+- Glycerine may be a byproduct from soap manufacturing 
+
+Needs more research
+
+
+## Cultural & historical information
+
+*Historically, what were the uses of this ingredient? In which contexts were these uses discovered? When? By whom? How did it travel to other places?*
+
+Glycerine is closely linked to the life processes themselves, and is a component of all living cells. It occurs naturally in wine, beer, bread and other fermentation products of sugar and grains. It is found in nature as triglycerides (a combination of glycerine and fatty acids that make up almost any vegetable and animal fat or oil). 
+
+Glycerine was discovered by accident in 1779 by K.W.Scheele. The Swedish chemist was heating olive oil and a lead monoxide, and he published his findings in 1783 in the Transactions of the Royal Academy of Sweden. His method which he called "the sweet principle of fat" was renamed into glycerine (from the Greek γλυκύς or glukus which means sweet) by M.E. Chevreul, who patented a new production method in 1823. Glycerine was of no economic significance until Alfred Nobel found the first worldwide technical application for it: for his invention of dynamite in 1866. It is said to have fueled industrial development of chemicals. 
+
+##Concerns 
+
+**Describe how this ingredient has been or might be contested. What are the concerns and dilemmas? Which arguments are put forward?**
+
+*may be cultural, health-wise, ecological, social, cultural, political, economical arguments*
+
+The purity of glycerine is essential for some applications (e.g. in chemistry, cosmetics, and food grade glycerine). With the increase in biofuel production, the production of glycerine grew as well. Purifying glycerine however is a particularly energy intentive part of the production process. Perhaps further research could be done on the required purity of glycerine for use in bioplastics. 
+
+
+##References
+
+*Please provide information to the references used*
+
+- **Environmental factsheet: Glycerol**, by the European Commission, n.d. [link](https://ec.europa.eu/jrc/sites/jrcsh/files/BISO-EnvSust-Bioproducts-Glycerol_140930.pdf)
+- **Glycerol production by microbial fermentation: a review** by Zhengxiang Wang, Jian Zhuge, Huiying-Fang, Bernard A Prior, in Biotechnology Advances, Vol.19, Issue 3, June 2001, pp. 201-223: [link](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S073497500100060X)
+- **Glycerine: An Overview** by the Soap and Detergent Association, Glycerine & Oleochemical Division New York, 1990: [link](http://bit.ly/Zsg3u9)
+- **Nothing Takes The Place of Glycerine** by the Glycerine Producers Association, New York, 1949: [link](https://www.aciscience.org/docs/Nothing%20takes%20the%20place%20of%20glycerine.pdf)
+- **What is vegetable glycerin? Uses, benefits and side effects** Alina Petre for  Healthline, 19 December 2018: [link](https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/vegetable-glycerin#what-it-is)
+- **How to make glycerine from vegetable oil**, Sciencing.com, n.d. [link](https://sciencing.com/sources-of-organic-matter-in-soil-12347549.html)
+- **Glycerol**, Wikipedia, n.d. [link](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycerol)
+- **What is sustainable palm oil?** Greenpalm.org, n.d.: [link](https://greenpalm.org/about-palm-oil/sustainable-palm-oil)
+

docs/projects/outcomes/tools_and_templates/ingredient_template.md

 # Ingredient template
 
-*Below is the template for documenting and researching an ingredient. An example of one that is filled in (for glycerine) can be found [here](../../../files/example_glycerine/)*
+*Below is the template for documenting and researching an ingredient. An example of one that is filled in (for glycerine) can be found [here](../../../files/example_glycerine2/)*
 
 # [Ingredient name]
 
 [Ingredient name (alternative names 1, 2)]
 
+E.g. glycerol, glycerine, propanetriol
+
 **What is it and how is it produced or sourced?**
 
 [Free text]
@@ -20,10 +22,9 @@
 
 **Processing information**
 
-If applicable: 
-
 - Dissolves in:	[free text, e.g. cold/warm/hot water, alcohol]
-- PH value:		[number 1-14]
+- PH value:		[number 1-14]
+- Safety:			[free text]
 
 **Selecting the right type**
 
@@ -51,9 +52,8 @@ and costs about [NUMBER] in [CURRENCY] per [NUMBER][UNIT].
 
 Select one: 
 
-- Less than 100 km (locally abundant
-- Less than 500 km
-- Less than 2000 km
+- Less than 500 km (locally abundant)
+- More than 500 km
 - More than 2000 km
 
 ##Eco-compatibility\*
@@ -122,7 +122,7 @@ Yes/No/Not sure
 ##Concerns 
 
 
-**Describe how this ingredient has been or might be contested. What are the issues and concerns? Which arguments are put forward?**
+**Describe how this ingredient has been or might be contested. What are the issues and concerns? Are there dilemmas to consider? Which arguments are put forward?**
 
 *may be cultural, health-wise, ecological, social, cultural, political, economical arguments*