docs/files/recipes/madderdye.md

@@ -30,10 +30,9 @@ Final form achieved after: 2 hours
 
 ###Ingredients
 
-* **madder roots (dried) -  50 g** also: Rubia Tinctorum, this is the dye stuff
+* **madder roots (dried) -  50 g** also: Rubia Tinctorum, this is the dye stuff. Is enough for 50-100g WoF (weight of fibre).
 * **water -  500 ml/g** solvent
-* **alum - 30 g** (also: potassium aluminium sulphate) will draw the pigment out of the madder root.
-* **soda ash - 5 g** to create bright reds
+* **soda ash - 5 g** (sodium carbonate Na2CO3), changes PH (more alkaline) to create bright reds
 * **a coffee filter** to filter the fine particles from the dye
 * optional: 100% pure silk, or aquarel/water colors paper and a paint brush to test the dye/ink
 
@@ -58,22 +57,24 @@ Approx. 500 ml
 
 1. **Preparation**
 
-	- Weigh the ingredients (and, optional: grind the madder root into a powder using a blender. By making the dye stuff smaller, you create more surface, which makes it easier to pull the pigments out of the madder root). 
+	- Weigh the ingredients
+	- Put the madder roots in water and let them soak for 24 hours before processing (also when using madder powder)
+	- optional: grind the madder root into a powder using a blender. By making the dye stuff smaller, you create more surface, which makes it easier to pull the pigments out of the madder root. 
 
-1. **Extract the pigment with alum**
+1. **Extract the pigment**
 
-	- Bring 600 ml of water to the boil, add the alum and stir to dissolve. Bring the water down to 70 degrees celcius. Use a thermometer and make sure it doesn't exceed 70 degrees throughout the entire cooking process (the madder pigment will turn dull and brown).
+	- Heat 600 ml of water up to 70 degrees celcius. Use a thermometer and make sure it doesn't exceed 70 degrees throughout the entire cooking process (the madder pigment will turn dull and brown).
 	- Add the ground madder roots and simmer at 70 degrees for 60 minutes.
 	- Strain the liquid into a bowl (keep the madder roots)
 	- Put the dye back into the pot, and add the soda ash (it will froth a little), stir and continue to simmer for 10-15 minutes. This is the dye for bright reds. 
 	- Filter the liquid through a cheesecloth or coffee filter to filter out the solid bits. This may take a while.   
 
-	- Optional: you can keep the madder roots for a second filtration with alum solution. It won't be as intense but you will continue to get color from it albeit a bit lighter. If it holds no more color, add vinegar or another acid to modify the color of the dye from the second filtration to orange and yellow colors. 
+	- Optional: you can keep the madder roots for a second filtration. It won't be as intense but you will continue to get color from it albeit a bit lighter. If it holds no more color, add vinegar or another acid to modify the color of the dye from the second filtration to orange and yellow colors. 
 
 1. **Using the ink as a dye or on paper**
 
 	- Use a funnel to transfer your dye into a glass jar.
-	- Use the warm dye immediately by adding a piece of wet silk or other (mordanted fibre) to it and leave overnight. Don't put silk in hot water, it damages the fibre. Then rinse and dry the silk. 
+	- Use the warm dye immediately by adding a piece of wet silk or other (mordanted) fibre to it and leave overnight. Don't put silk in hot water, it damages the fibre. Then rinse and dry the silk. 
 	- You can also use it as an ink (hot or cold). Use fine chinese brushes and aquarel/water colors paper.
 	- To store: add a clove and store in the fridge or freeze. If it smells weird or grows fungus, throw it away and make new ink. 
 	- Using the dye at a later stage: warm up the dye by putting the glass jar au bain marie (put it in a larger pot with boiling water). Slowly heat it up until warm, not hot. Add (mordanted) fibres such as silk, leave overnight for deep hues. 
@@ -83,8 +84,6 @@ Approx. 500 ml
 
 ![](../../images/madder1.jpg)*Madder roots, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
-![](../../images/madder2.jpg)*Adding alum , Loes Bogers, 2020*
-
 ![](../../images/madder3.jpg)*After the first extraction, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ![](../../images/madder4.jpg)*Add a pinch of soda ash, Loes Bogers, 2020*
@@ -96,6 +95,11 @@ Approx. 500 ml
 
 - You can extract pigment (insoluble particles) for paints by adding a 10% carbonate soda solution (25g of soda ash on 250g hot water). Add only little bits because it froths a lot. Let it precipitate and filter it through a fine cloth. Dry the solids and add a binder to create paints. See also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YVO2Dr8gD8.
 - Add a binder such as arabic gum to create a nicer flow if you wish to use this ink for painting and arts, not dyeing textiles. 
+- madder can also used cold: liquidize the soaked roots, add 6% WoF calcium carbonate, add water and let it stand - covered - for 4-7 days. Stir occasionally. Then add mordanted fibre. See also: http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/madder_dye_nest_rubio.html
+- when dyeing cotton: add 6% WoF calcium carbonate (limestone) dissolved in a bit of hot water for richer color, the chalk acts as a calcium binder.
+- when dyeing silk or wool: some ammonia may be added for deeper reds, either by soaking the madder in ammonia overnight, or by adding some to the dye bath. 
+- make a post-mordant bath with 6% WoF calcium carbonate (chalk) dissolved in a bit of hot water to help attach the fibre. 
+ 
 
 
 ##ORIGINS & REFERENCES
@@ -159,7 +163,7 @@ How often can this dye be reused? Overview of colors from second, third, fourth(
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/mangoleather.md

@@ -32,8 +32,8 @@ Final form achieved after: 7 days
 ###Ingredients
 
 * **1 Overripe mango - with skin** get these as waste from the market, they can have dents and bruises it doesn't matter. We will dehydrate the mango until it becomes leather-like.
-* **Potato starch - 15 g** functions as the polymeer (makes the mango puree harder)
-* **White vinegar - 15 gr** vinegar is almost always added to starch-based biopolymers to change the molecular structure of the starch, making it stronger and more workable
+* **Potato starch - 1 tbsp (10 g)** functions as the polymeer (makes the mango puree harder)
+* **White vinegar - 1 tbsp (8 gr)** vinegar is almost always added to starch-based biopolymers to change the molecular structure of the starch, making it stronger and more workable
 * **Salt - 5 gr** as a preservative and stabilizer. 
 * **Vegetable oil - 1 tbsp** as a release agent for the mould.
 
@@ -58,7 +58,7 @@ Approx. 25 x 25 cm sheet of 1-2 mm thick
 1. **Preparation**
 
 	- Cut the mango into smaller pieces and puree it in a blender or with a mixer. 
-	- Prepare the mold by applying some oil
+	- Optional: Prepare the mold by applying some oil
 	- Dissolve the starch in a dash of water until liquid
 
 1. **Mixing the ingredients and activating the starch**
@@ -69,7 +69,7 @@ Approx. 25 x 25 cm sheet of 1-2 mm thick
 
 1. **Casting and dehydrating in the oven**
 
-	- 	Pour the paste onto the surface or mould and spread it out evenly, knock it on a hard surface gently to even it out more. 
+	-  Pour the paste onto the surface or mould and spread it out evenly, knock it on a hard surface gently to even it out more. 
 	-  Heat the oven to 50 degrees Celcius on the fan setting and put the paste into the oven for at least 16 hours (you can spread it out over a few days with airdrying in between). If your oven allows it without turning itself off: keep the door slightly open with a cloth to let the moisture escape). 
 	-  Carefully peel thea leather off the tray, flip it, and check if the bottom has fully dried. If not, put back in the oven with the moist side up for another few hours. 
 	-  Optional: you can airdry the leather as well, but there is some more risk of molding. Don't dry it in direct sunlight. 
@@ -81,7 +81,7 @@ Approx. 25 x 25 cm sheet of 1-2 mm thick
 
 ###Drying/curing/growth process
 
-- Mold depth:  				 5 mm (filled 2-3mm high)
+- Mold depth:  				 5 mm (filled 3mm high)
 - Shrinkage thickness:      50 %
 - Shrinkage width/length:   0-5% %
 
@@ -123,10 +123,15 @@ Some more experimentation could be done on the effect of dissipating more or les
 ###Variations
 
 - Add a **natural colorant** such as a vegetable dye or water-based ink (e.g. hibiscus, beetroot, madder). The puree is acidic (PH6-7), consider this in your choice of colorant. Dissipate some more water or to compensate for the added liquid. Adding spices may also work to create color (and smell variations).
-- Add 1-2 tablespoons of **melted bees wax** for a more rigid, more water proof mango leather. 
+- Add 1 tablespoon of **melted bees wax** for a more rigid, more water proof mango leather. 
 - **Stiffeners** such as fibres, yarn or natural debris may be added for more structure and reinforcement.
-- **Other starches** will work, pick whatever is (organically) produced locally. 
-- Try other **fibrous fruit waste **like, apples, pears, peaches, plums or even rhubarb. 
+- **Other starches** will work, pick whatever is (organically) produced locally.  Different starches may have different levels of binding power. If it gets too brittle and cracks, you used too much. 
+- For recipe made of local produce, rather than local waste, try other **fibrous fruit waste** like, apples, peaches, plums or even rhubarb. 
+- Using the fruit leftovers from juicing 10 pears gave good results with this recipe but require longer drying time. Use 2 tbsp of starch and 1/2 a tbsp of glycerine for this amount. 
+
+![](../../images/pear_leather1.jpg)*Variation using pear waste, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+![](../../images/pear_leather2.jpg)*Variation using pear waste, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+![](../../images/pear_leather3.jpg)*Variation using pear waste, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ##ORIGINS & REFERENCES
 
@@ -205,6 +210,7 @@ Needs further research? yes, possibilities of re-using the leather
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/mordants_tannins.md

+# MORDANTS & TANNINS
+
+##GENERAL INFORMATION
+
+Processes for *pre-mordanting* textiles and fibres is discussed here. Simultaneous and post-mordanting is also possible. 
+
+**Physical form**
+
+Pastes, gels & liquids
+
+Mordants, tannins and binders to lock pigments to fibres, for more colorfast dyeing with natural dyes
+
+**Fabrication time**
+
+Preparation time: variable 
+
+Processing time: variable
+
+Need attention: variable
+
+Final form achieved after: a couple hours, up to a week
+
+**Estimated cost (consumables)**
+
+variable
+
+##RECIPE
+
+###Ingredients
+
+One of these or a combination (see below):
+
+* **Alum** (*potassium aluminium sulfate dodecahydrate*)
+* **Cream of Tartar** *(tartaric acid)*
+* **Oak galls**, the whole nut, or powder (*galnut extract, gallotannic acid*)
+* **Soda ash** *(sodium carbonate)*
+* **Soy milk** (soya milk), unflavoured, unsweetened
+* **Symplocos** (*symplocos cochinchinensis, horse sugar, sweetleaf*), leaves or powder, a plant-based alum mordant, e.g. from the Bebali Foundation. Use the yellow ones that have fallen off the shrubs naturally. 
+* **Iron sulphate** (*ferrous sulfate*) powder
+* **Iron liquor** (*ferrous acetate*) made at home by putting rusty nails or other iron scraps in vinegar for a few weeks.
+
+
+###Tools
+
+1. **Big pan**, ideally stainless steel, that is *only* used for dyeing, not for cooking
+1. **Precision scale**
+1. **A spoon**, only used for dyeing, not for preparing food
+1. **Household gloves**
+1. **Tongs**, only used for dyeing, not for preparing food
+
+###Yield
+
+Varies
+
+
+###Method
+
+
+#### Scouring
+
+Dissolve 10% WoF sodacarbonate (soda ash) in hot water. Add damp fibre and let it soak for a few hours, or heat it (max 80 Celcius for protein fibre)
+
+#### Soaking
+
+Some suggest to soak silk for 24h before the dye bath, and wool 30 mins before. I'm not sure if this is suggested for unmordanted fibre and mordanted fibres alike. 
+
+####Mordanting
+
+**General rules of thumb:**
+
+* use 3 L water per 100 g weight of dry fibre (WoF)
+* preferably heat up the water slowly
+* don't shock protein fibre, always rinse with warm water, never heat above 75 degrees celcius. 
+* Know that there are a lot of recipes, best is to start a collection where you make small tests you can compare (be sure to write everything down very precisely). 
+* *steeping* (letting the fibre sit in the mordant bath overnight or longer) and *curing* (drying the mordanted fibre and leaving it alone for a few days before dyeing) allows the mordants to set, some recommend it. 
+* Use rainwater as much as possible
+* You can reuse alum baths to save water and mordant. To recharge the bath, add 25-50% additional dissolved alum, or 1 additional teaspoon per 100 grams of fiber, stir and mordant as above. If you observe excessive cloudiness or large flakes floating in the bath, it is time to change it (after 5 times or so). The same probably works for the other mordants (not tested).
+* Mordanted fibers may be stored damp in a plastic bag and refrigerated for 3-5 days and cured or aged, as this also seems to increase the depth of shade in the dyed fibers.  
+
+**Safety**
+
+Keep dye tools and utensils separate from kitchen tools. Natural does not mean non-toxic! None of this is made for eating or drinking so keep it separate at all times. Alum may be safely disposed in a municipal water system by pouring down the drain.
+
+##**PROTEIN FIBRES**
+
+### Alum (hot)
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Bring to 80 degrees Celcius and let simmer for an hour. Some suggest to steep overnight or even for 3-5 days in the mordant bath. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Alum (cold) 
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Steep for 3-4 weeks inside the mordant bath, stir occassionally. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Alum + Cream of Tartar (for wool)
+
+Cream of Tarter (NL: Wijnsteenzuur) is said to keep wool shiny and soft and brightens the colors. Take your pick: 
+
+* 15-20% alum and 5% CoT (Cecilia Raspanti)
+* 8% Alum and 5% CoT (Botanical Colors)
+* 4/8/12% alum and 3/6/8% CoT (Roos Soetekauw)
+
+Dissolve separately in hot water before adding to a pot. Enough water so the fibres can "swim". Heat slowly to 75 degrees Celcius, keep there for 30-60 minutes. Let steep overnight. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Symplocos (for wool)
+
+Bark of Lodrah (*symplocos racemosa* or *symplocos cochinchinensis*  or *symplocos tinctoria*, all sold as *symplocos*) is a plant that grows on acidic soil and is naturally high in alum. It is cultivated in Asia (e.g. Bebali Foundation in Indonesia) and the Americas. 
+
+20-50% WoF (Botanical Colors) 
+
+Boil the symplocos leaves for 30 minutes at 80 degrees Celcius or until they sink to the bottom of the pot. Let the pot cool to 40 degrees C. Use 50% WoF when you use leaves, or less when using powder. 
+
+Add the fibre and slowly bring pot back to 80 degrees C. Keep there for another 30-60 mins. Rinse the fibre with warm water, it should be slightly yellow now (this will disappear during dyeing). 
+
+Another plant that is known to by naturally high in alum is club moss (NL: wolfsklauw).
+
+### Soy milk (for silk)
+
+In Japan silk is treated with soy milk (see protein recipe below for suggested process). 
+
+### Iron sulphate
+
+0.25 - 1% WoF (when using powder)
+
+Dissolve in hot water before adding to the mordant bath. Mordant fibres for 45-60 mins, rinse. Iron mordant baths can be used to shift color (cold or hot) multiple times, just dip a dyed swatch into the iron bath until the desired color is achieved.  For more info, see below. 
+
+
+##**CELLULOSE FIBRES**
+
+### Alum (hot)
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Bring to 80 degrees Celcius and let simmer for an hour. Some suggest to steep overnight or even for 3-5 days in the mordant bath. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Alum (cold) 
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Steep for 3-4 weeks inside the mordant bath, stir occassionally. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Tannin | Alum  
+
+**Step 1: Tannin bath**
+
+10% WoF Gallo-tannin or Tara powder
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add fiber, let it sit for 1-2 hours (no need to heat). Do _**not**_ rinse (or do rinse, like Kim Eichler Messner). But do also try with heating and an overnight steep.
+
+**Step 2: Alum bath**
+
+10-15% WoF Alum
+
+Some add  1.5% Soda ash to this bath (Roos Soetekauw, Kim Eichler Messner)
+
+Dissolve separately in hot water, add together (will create bubbles). Add water and fibre. Boil for 1 hour, steep overnight. Rinse. 
+
+Tannins are for lightfastness. The tannin is not strongly attached to the fiber but adding alum bonds it into place. Oak galls (6-10%), myrobalan, tara powder (10%), sumac, pomegranate (10%), quebracho moreno, walnut hulls and cutch all are good tannins. But some also add color. Oak galls and tara powder are clear, light tannins. 
+
+### Alum + Soda | Soy milk
+
+Treating fibre with alkaline bath and then high-protein bath allows pigment to attach to the fibre more easily. In a way the cellulose will behave more like protein. Milks arent mordants though: they don't chemically bind to the fibre). They are binders and will wash away eventually. 
+
+**Step 1:  Alkaline bath**
+
+2-3% alum | 2% soda 
+
+Dissolve each separately in hot water before combining into a mordant bath. Fibres should be able to "swim". Simmer for 1 hour, and let cool overnight. Rinse before the second bath. Some use fibres without the second bath. 
+
+**Step 2: Protein bath**
+
+(soy) milk to water 1:1 - 1:10
+
+Ratios soy milk to water vary: 1:1 - 1:5 - 1:10. One recipe mentions to add 1 tbsp of soda per 100 ml milk. 
+
+Generally: let the fibre soak in the milk mix for 8-24 hours. Squeeze it out, and let it dry. Then dip again (quick dip so you don't wash off the previous layer), squeeze out, let dry. Repeat again if you wish. 
+
+Then let the fabric cure for a week. **_Don't rinse_** it at any stage! This can be done with soy milk but also rice milk and cow's milk. 
+
+Also cow, goat and sheep's milk work. Or soaking acorns or almonds overnight and blending them can create a protein rich solution (Roos Soetekauw). Other protein baths are: gelatine, blood, yogurt.
+ 
+### Tannin + Symplocos
+
+**Step 1: Tannin bath**
+
+10% WoF Gallo-tannin or Tara powder 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add fiber, let soak for 1-2 hours (no need to heat)
+
+**Step 2: Symplocos (alkaline) bath**
+
+20-50% WoF Symplocos (Botanical Colors)
+
+Boil the symplocos leaves for 30 minutes at 80 degrees Celcius until they sink to the bottom of the pot. Add the fibre and simmer for another 60 mins. Let it steep overnight. Rinse the fibre with warm water, it should be slightly yellow now (this will disappear during dyeing). 
+
+Another plant that is known to by naturally high in alum is club moss (NL: wolfsklauw).
+
+### Other mordants and tannins
+
+Urine, egg white, blood, ashes, ammonia, myrobalan, sumac, walnut hulls, chestnut hulls, rhubarb leaves, chitin, mango bark, aloe vera leaves, cub moss (NL: wolfsklauw) and many more.
+
+There's renewed interest in plant-based mordants rather than metal-based mordants which would always require some kind of mining, disturbing waterways and natural areas. Look for natural *bioaccummulators* of soil metals: the metals naturally occurring in the earth. These plants can live in very acidic environments, symplocos being one of them, but also club moss.  
+
+### Iron sulphate
+
+0.25 - 3% WoF (when using powder)
+
+Dissolve in hot water before adding to the mordant bath. Mordant fibres for 45-60 mins, rinse. Iron mordant baths can be used to shift color (cold or hot) multiple times, just dip a dyed swatch into the iron bath until the desired color is achieved. 
+
+Iron sulphate is the least polluting after alum and is a waste product. It should be mostly absorbed by the textile so the mordant baths can be discarded safely. But this is hard to say in home dyeing and one can wonder if it's desirable to wear textiles on the body that contain iron sulphate. Although some studies have shown that they are safe, one cannot tell when dyeing DIY. Better option is to invest in different cooking pot (a tin pot, copper pot, aluminium pot, castiron pot). Dyeing in these metal pots will give off a little bit of the metals to boost the dyes, but are all absorbed in the textile. Other heavy metal mordants are not recommended because they have larger ecological impacts. 
+
+Iron mordant baths may be discarded in municipal waste systems (down the drain), don't dump directly in nature though. **Safety note:** always wear gloves when using this, wear goggles and a mouth mask when measureing iron sulphate powder, and keep away from pets. 
+
+You can make your own iron mordant (called iron liquor or *ferrous acetate*) by putting some scrap metals - like old nails - in a glass jar and cover it vinegar (or part vinegar, part water) This won't be as precise because the amount of iron sulphate increases overtime. Just start with adding a little bit to a pot of water and add more until you achieve the color you want. 
+
+Seal with a lid and let it get rusty for 2 weeks. Label it and keep away from pets and kids. 
+
+
+###Process Pictures
+
+
+
+
+###Variations
+
+See above
+
+
+##ORIGINS & REFERENCES
+
+**Cultural origins of this recipe**
+
+
+
+**Needs further research?**   Not sure
+
+###Key Sources
+
+
+
+###Copyright information 
+
+
+##ETHICS & SUSTAINABILITY
+
+
+
+**Sustainability tags**
+
+- Renewable ingredients: yes (except alum)
+- Vegan: yes
+- Made of by-products or waste:  no
+- Biocompostable final product:  yes
+- Re-use: yes, mordant baths can be reused. For each next bath, add 25-50% of the original mordant to replenish the bath. 
+
+Needs further research?:  Not sure
+
+
+##PROPERTIES
+
+- **Color fastness:** variable
+- **Light fastness:** variable
+- **Washability:** variable
+- **Color modifiers:** N/A
+- **Odor**: moderate
+- **Suitable fibres**: see above
+
+##ABOUT
+
+**Maker(s) of this sample**
+
+- Name: Loes Bogers
+- Affiliation: Fabricademy student at Waag Textile Lab Amsterdam
+- Location:  Amsterdam, the Netherlands
+- Date: 20-10-2020 - 22-10-2020
+
+**Environmental conditions**
+
+- Humidity:  40-50%
+- Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
+- Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
+- PH tap water:  7-8
+
+**Recipe validation**
+
+Has recipe been validated? No
+
+**Images of the final sample**
+
+![](../../images/finalpicslalala.jpg)*Title, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+
+
+##REFERENCES
+
+- **Natuurlijk Verven, Grand Teints** by Jantine Koobs, Textielmuseum Tilburg, 2018: [link](https://textielmuseum.nl/uploads/content/BTME001.pdf)
+
+- **Natuurlijk Verven** by Roos Soetekauw, *Issuu*, 2011: [link](https://issuu.com/roossoetekouw/docs/scriptie_-_natuurlijk_verven_klein)
+ 
+- **Mordanting with Cow's Milk** by Louise Upshall, *Gumnut Magic*, 2018: [link](https://www.gumnutmagic.com/mordanting-with-cows-milk/)
+
+- **Ecoprint op Katoen** by Nienke Smit, *Verfvirus*, 2015 [link](https://www.verfvirus.nl/2015/08/ecoprint-op-katoen-voorbeitsen.html)
+
+- **Natural Dyes, A Primer for Using Mordant Dyes on Cellulose Fabric** by Kim Eichler Messner (n.d.), *Kim E.M. Quilts*: [link](https://www.kimemquilts.com/s/Kim-E-M-Natural-Dye-Primer.pdf)
+
+- **How to Mordant with Symplocos** by *Botanical Colors*, n.d. [link](https://botanicalcolors.com/botanical-colors-how-tos/how-to-mordant-with-symplocos/)
+
+- **How to Mordant** by Botanical Colors, n.d. [link](https://botanicalcolors.com/how-to-mordant/)
+
+- **Art and Science of Natural Dyes Principles, Experiments and Results** by Joy Boutrup and Catherine Ellis, Schiffer Publishing, 2018. 
+ 
+- **Chitin - Another eco-friendly mordant for natural dyes**, by A. Poornima and A. Sharada Devi, *ResearchGate*, August 2007, [link](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/295368867_Chitin_-_Another_eco-friendly_mordant_for_natural_dyes)
+
+- **Dyeing of Wool Fabric Using Natural Dye and Natural Mordant Extracts** by Taame Berhanu Teklemedhin, *Trends in Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology*, Vol 4, Issue 4, 2018: [link](https://crimsonpublishers.com/tteft/fulltext/TTEFT.000593.php)
+
+- **Extraction and Optimization of Natural Dye from Hambo Hambo (Cassia singueana) Plant Used for Coloration of Tanned Leather Materials** by Taame Berhanu and Saminathan Ratnapandian, *Advances in Materials Science and Engineering*, 2017: [link](https://www.hindawi.com/journals/amse/2017/7516409/)
+
+- **Alum Mordanting Again**, by Jenny Dean, *Jenny Dean's Wild Color*, 2009: [link](https://www.jennydean.co.uk/alum-mordanting-again/)
+
+- **Iron Mordant Solution** by Sasha Duerr, 2013, *Mother Earth News*: [link](https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/home/iron-mordant-solution-ze0z1312zbla)
+
+- **A New Approach To Plant-Derived Mordants** by Mel Sweetnam, *Mamie's Schoolhouse*, 2020: [link](https://www.mamiesschoolhouse.com/blogarchive/2020/4/25/a-new-approach-to-plants-as-mordants)
+
+- **Global Hyperaccumulator Database** by *SMI CMLR, Center for Mined Land Rehabilitation*, [link](http://hyperaccumulators.smi.uq.edu.au/collection/)
+
+- **Understanding Mordants** by *Griffin Dyeworks & Fiber Arts*, 2012 [link](http://griffindyeworks.com/understanding-mordants/alumtanninalum.html)
\ No newline at end of file

docs/files/recipes/oniondye.md

@@ -73,7 +73,7 @@ Approx. 200 ml
 
 1. **Dyeing with onion dye**
 
-	- Optional (not necessary) mordant the fibres with alum for color fastness
+	- Optional (preferred) mordant the fibres with alum or other mordant for color fastness
 	- Put the wet fibres in the dyebath and simmer for an hour, then leave overnight
 	- Rinse and dry
 	- Optional: modify with PH modifiers 
@@ -132,9 +132,9 @@ Yellow onions can be found in abundance in many countries (including the Netherl
 
 - Renewable ingredients: yes
 - Vegan: yes
-- Made of by-products or waste: yes
-- Biocompostable final product: yes
-- Re-use: yes
+- Made of by-products or waste: yes (partially
+- Biocompostable final product: yes, (rip silk to shreds for home composting).
+- Re-use: yes, silk can be redyed. 
 
 Needs further research?:  Would be useful to have an overview of how often this can be used as a dye bath and how it fades. 
 
@@ -157,7 +157,7 @@ Needs further research?:  Would be useful to have an overview of how often this
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/phmodifiers.md

@@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ Final form achieved after: N/A
 ###Ingredients
 
 * **Water - 1000 L**, the solvent, ideally has a PH of 7.
-* **Soda ash - 5g**, to make an alkaline solution (PH 8-PH 13)
+* **Soda ash - 5g** (sodium carbonate Na2CO3), to make an alkaline solution (PH 8-PH 13)
 * **Citric acid - g** OR: 150 ml of vinegar or lemon juice, to make an acidic solution (PH 1 -PH 6). Citric acid is sold in asian supermarkets and has very high acidity (more than vinegar and lemon juice)
 * **Red cabage dye - 50 ml** see [this recipe](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/cabbagedye/). Alcohol-based cabage ink is also fine. 
 * **A large round coffee filter**, ideally white ones. To make PH strips. If you can't find these, get 4 smaller filters and cut them open so you have only one layer. 
@@ -175,6 +175,7 @@ Needs further research?:  not sure
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/recycledPLA.md

@@ -223,7 +223,7 @@ Recycling PLA with PET plastics contaminates the waste stream.
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/projects/tools.md → docs/files/tools.md

@@ -28,9 +28,7 @@ Some of the recipes can get smelly, so consider the people you share a space wit
 
 When working with inks and dyes, consider to protect your surfaces by coverig it with a piece of plastic. Wear some clothes you don't mind staining.
 
-##ESSENTIALS
-
-##Kitchen utensils
+##Kitchen utensils & household tools
 
 ![](../images/toolpics-3.jpg)*Dedicated to non-food only: strainers, pots, thermometer, a syringe, a knife, and kitchen paper, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
@@ -63,10 +61,14 @@ When working with inks and dyes, consider to protect your surfaces by coverig it
 - A blunt scraping tool
 - A drying rack (used in the oven)
 - A silicone mat
-- Anti-bacterial hand soap
 - Large transparent ziplock bags
 - Oven mitts/gloves
 - Access to a fridge and freezer
+- A drying rack (used for laundry)
+- Anti-bacterial hand soap
+- Heavy duty cleaning gloves
+- A squeegee, a ruler or other wide straight tool
+- Overcoat to protect clothing (like a lab coat or overall), or clothing you don't mind staining
 
 ![](../images/toolpics-5.jpg)*Dedicated to non-food only: a mortar and pestle, a blunt scraping tool, baking paper, textured plastic, oven mitts, spoons, a whisk, and a silicon scraper, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
@@ -74,7 +76,7 @@ When working with inks and dyes, consider to protect your surfaces by coverig it
 
 ![](../images/toolpics-6.jpg)*Funnels (large and small), a precision scale, a tupperware box, antibacterial hand soap, rubber bands, chopsticks, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
-##Basic DIY & crafts tools
+##Arts & crafts tools
 - A stack of heavy books (for pressing)
 - 4x spray bottle(s) of 100-150 ml
 - Painting tape
@@ -92,44 +94,56 @@ When working with inks and dyes, consider to protect your surfaces by coverig it
 - Labels
 - Scissors
 - Pipettes
-- Pen and paper or a laptop for notetaking
-
-![](../images/toolpics-7.jpg)*Art supplies for testing inks/dyes and trimming biomaterials: aquarel paper, silk chiffon, a cutting mat, a scalpel, a fine japanese brush, a regular brush, pipettes and a ruler, Loes Bogers, 2020*
-
-###Tools to find around the house (or at the hardware store)
-- A drying rack (used for laundry)
-- Nails and a hammer
 - Wooden board of approx 60 x 30 cm 
 - A sheet of fine mesh (plastic, textile, metal, all fine) slightly larger than the wooden frame
 - A wooden frame (e.g. a large picture frame)
-- Heavy duty cleaning gloves
-- A squeegee, a ruler or other wide straight tool
-- Protective clothing (that can get dirty, like a lab coat)
+- Nails and a hammer
+
+
+![](../images/toolpics-7.jpg)*Art supplies for testing inks/dyes and trimming biomaterials: aquarel paper, silk chiffon, a cutting mat, a scalpel, a fine japanese brush, a regular brush, pipettes and a ruler, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ![](../images/toolpics-8.jpg)*For drying: a drying rack, a wooden board, hammer and nails, metal wire, a large tray that fits in your oven, a wooden frame and a piece of sturdy fine mesh.  Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ![](../images/toolpics-2.jpg)*Protective gloves, labels, clips, coffee filters, large ziplock bag, spray bottle, petri dish, tape, and (optional) PH paper, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
-###Optional tools
+##Tools for documenting
 
-- A wider variety of silicone and acrylic molds. You can buy these and some you can make yourself. 
-- Additional acrylic sheet to cut modular molds (if you have access to a laser cutter)
-- Nuts & bolts to keep modular molds together
+- Pen and paper or a notebook
+- A laptop with an internet connection
+- Optional: software to edit markdown files, e.g. [MacDown](https://macdown.uranusjr.com/) (for Mac)
+- Labels or painting tape for temporary labeling
+- An office printer to print labels
+- A4 paper 160 or 210 grams/m2 (whatever your printer can take)
+- For now, the label templates can only be edited well in Adobe InDesign
 
-![](../images/toolpics-9.jpg)*Optional: various silicone moulds: stackable with removable bottom, modular walls with metal wire inside to bend them into shape, and an XXL ice cube tray, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+![](../images/pics-insta4.jpg)*Editing a markdown file, Loes Bogers, 2020* 
+
+##Biolab supplies for microbial growth
+
+And finally, the hard(er) but very exciting part! You will need these tools to explore the bacterial dye (with the Serratie Marcescens bacteria). You might also try to contact a local microbiology lab or open biolab (maybe at a high school even?) to take your first steps in microbiology. None of the other recipes require these tools. 
 
-###Basic biolab supplies
 - Pressure cooker pan
 - 2x Glass petri dish large 20 cm diameter
 - 12x (or more) small petri dishes, ideally glass ones 
 - A gas burner (like a campinggaz or bunsen burner)
 - A lighter
 - A permanent marker (thin)
-- An inoculation loop or other metal loop
-- 2x heat proof glass bottle with screw cap, 500 ml
-- Autoclave tape
+- An inoculation loop or any other metal wire formed as a loop
+- 2x [heat proof glass bottle](http://www.laboratoriumglas.eu/index.php?item=labfles-500-ml-met-gl-45&action=article&group_id=56&aid=301&lang=NL) with screw cap, 500 ml
+- Optional: Autoclave tape
 - Parafilm
 - An incubator or temperature controlled box (26-30 degrees C)
 - Disposable vinyl gloves
 
 *Picture will follow*
+
+##Optional tools
+
+- A wider variety of silicone and acrylic molds. You can buy these and some you can make yourself. 
+- Additional acrylic sheet to cut modular molds (if you have access to a laser cutter)
+- Nuts & bolts to keep modular molds together
+- A stand to use for the tactility videos, cut from 4 mm MDF (download the [Illustrator file](../files/tools/stopmotionstand.ai), or the [DXF file](../files/tools/stopmotionstand.dxf)). 
+
+![](../images/toolpics-9.jpg)*Optional: various silicone moulds: stackable with removable bottom, modular walls with metal wire inside to bend them into shape, and an XXL ice cube tray, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+
+![](../images/stopmotionstand.jpg)*Optional: a stand to make tactility videos with your phone, Loes Bogers, 2020*