docs/files/recipes/biofoam.md

@@ -176,10 +176,10 @@ Using renewable ingredients is not by definition petrol-free. Imagine they have
 - Renewable ingredients: yes
 - Vegan: no
 - Made of by-products or waste:  no
-- Biocompostable final product:  yes
+- Biocompostable final product:  yes, but only professionally (home composting of animal-based materials is not allowed in the EU)
 - Re-use: melt with heat and a splash of water, and recast
 
-Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water. Should not be recycled as part of PET-plastics waste: this causes contamination of the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow.
+Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water. Should not be recycled as part of PET-plastics waste: this causes contamination of the waste stream. 
 
 Needs further research?:  not sure
 
@@ -219,7 +219,7 @@ Needs further research?:  not sure
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8
@@ -230,7 +230,7 @@ Has recipe been validated? Yes, by Cecilia Raspanti, TextileLab, Waag Amsterdam,
 
 **Images of the final sample**
 
-![](../../images/finalpics-16_foam.jpg)*Biofoam (gelatin-based), Loes Bogers, 2020*
+![](../../images/finalpics-16_foam_GOOD.jpg)*Biofoam (gelatin-based), Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ![](../../images/finalpics-17_foam.jpg)*Biofoam (gelatin-based), Loes Bogers, 2020*
 

docs/files/recipes/biofoilextraflexible.md

@@ -70,6 +70,7 @@ Approx. 200 ml before drying/processng
 
 	- 	Simmer and slowly stir the mixture between 60-80 degrees celcius for 20 minutes. I turn it lower when I get bubbles. You don't want the liquid to move, don't boil it.
 	-  Longer cooking time allows more water to evaporate. You will get a thicker, more syruppy liquid that spreads slower: resulting in a thicker sheet. 
+	-  Optional: if you have access to one: use a **vibrating table** or a **vacuum chamber** to allow bubbles to come to the surface and pop, so you don't have bubbles in your plastic. 
 
 1. **Casting**
 
@@ -208,7 +209,7 @@ Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some wa
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/biolino.md

@@ -143,7 +143,7 @@ In short: not all plastics are petrol-based. Henry Ford experimented with plasti
 
 **Needs further research?**   Not sure
 
-### References this recipe draws from
+###Key sources
 
 - **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (TextileLab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating Materials", 2017-2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/).
 - **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) 
@@ -167,12 +167,12 @@ Using renewable ingredients is not by definition petrol-free. Imagine they have
 - Renewable ingredients: yes
 - Vegan: no
 - Made of by-products or waste:  partially (only the egg shell filler)
-- Biocompostable final product:  yes
+- Biocompostable final product:  yes, but only professionally (home composting of animal-based materials is not allowed in the EU)
 - Reuse: needs further research
 
 Needs further research?:  can this be remelted and reused?
 
-Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water (but plastics with additives and fillers might not be reusable). Should not be recycled as part of PET-plastics waste: this causes contamination of the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow.
+Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water (but plastics with additives and fillers might not be reusable). Should not be recycled as part of PET-plastics waste: this causes contamination of the waste stream. 
 
 ##PROPERTIES
 
@@ -210,6 +210,7 @@ Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some wa
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/bioresin.md

@@ -173,12 +173,12 @@ Using renewable ingredients is not by definition petrol-free. Imagine they have
 - Renewable ingredients: yes
 - Vegan: no
 - Made of by-products or waste:  no
-- Biocompostable final product:  yes
+- Biocompostable final product:  yes, but only professionally (home composting of animal-based materials is not allowed in the EU)
 - Reuse: yes, by melting and recasting
 
 Needs further research?:  not sure
 
-Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water. Recycling them with PET plastics contaminates the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow.
+Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water. Do not recycle them with PET plastics, it contaminates the waste stream. 
 
 ##PROPERTIES
 
@@ -217,6 +217,7 @@ Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some wa
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/biorubber.md

@@ -178,12 +178,12 @@ Using renewable ingredients is not by definition petrol-free. Imagine they have
 - Renewable ingredients: yes
 - Vegan: no
 - Made of by-products or waste:  no
-- Biocompostable final product:  yes
+- Biocompostable final product:  yes, but only professionally (home composting of animal-based materials - like gelatine - is not allowed in the EU)
 - Reuse: further research needed
 
 Needs further research?:  not sure
 
-Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water (but plastics with additives and fillers might not be reusable). Should not be recycled as part of PET-plastics waste: this causes contamination of the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow.
+Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water (but plastics with additives and fillers might not be reusable). Should not be recycled as part of PET-plastics waste: this causes contamination of the waste stream.
 
 ##PROPERTIES
 
@@ -229,6 +229,13 @@ Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some wa
 
 Has recipe been validated? Yes, by Cecilia Raspanti, TextileLab, Waag Amsterdam, 16 March 2020
 
+**Environmental conditions**
+
+- Humidity:  40-50%
+- Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
+- Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
+- PH tap water:  7-8
+
 **Images of the final sample**
 
 ![](../../images/finalpics-38.jpg)*Starch-based rubber, Loes Bogers, 2020*

docs/files/recipes/biosilicon.md

@@ -158,12 +158,12 @@ Using renewable ingredients is not by definition petrol-free. Imagine they have
 - Renewable ingredients: yes
 - Vegan: no
 - Made of by-products or waste:  no
-- Biocompostable final product:  yes
+- Biocompostable final product:  yes, but only professionally (home composting of animal-based materials is not allowed in the EU)
 - Reuse: yes, by melting and recasting
 
 Needs further research?:  not sure
 
-Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water (but plastics with additives and fillers might not be reusable). Should not be recycled as part of PET-plastics waste: this causes contamination of the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow.
+Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water (but plastics with additives and fillers might not be reusable). Should not be recycled as part of PET-plastics waste: this causes contamination of the waste stream. 
 
 ##PROPERTIES
 
@@ -210,6 +210,13 @@ Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some wa
 
 Has recipe been validated? Yes, by Cecilia Raspanti, TextileLab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020
 
+**Environmental conditions**
+
+- Humidity:  40-50%
+- Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
+- Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
+- PH tap water:  7-8
+
 **Images of the final sample**
 
 ![](../../images/finalpics-42.jpg)*Biosilicone sample, Loes Bogers, 2020*

docs/files/recipes/cabbagedye.md

@@ -161,7 +161,7 @@ How often can this dye be reused? Overview of colors different PH modifiers duri
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/fishskin.md

@@ -40,10 +40,10 @@ Final form achieved after: 1 week
 * **Fresh uncooked fish skins**, e.g. salmon skins
 	* the amounts below are enough for 1 large fish skin
 * **Denatured alcohol 96%** - 200 ml
-	* helps to penetrate the skin
+	* stabilizer: denatures ("kills") and removes the collagen from the cells to prevent the tissue from rotting and disintegrating after drying
 	* optional: substitute part of the alcohol with a mix of alcohol and a natural alcohol-based ink)
 * **Glycerine** - 200 ml
-	* to maintain moisture content in the skin, avoid excess drying.
+	* lubricant: softens the leather and adds flexibility
 * **Dish washing soap (eco)** - 5 ml
 
 
@@ -163,7 +163,7 @@ It is unclear if copyright rests on this publication. Further research is requir
 - Renewable ingredients: yes
 - Vegan: no
 - Made of by-products or waste:  yes
-- Biocompostable final product:  yes
+- Biocompostable final product:  yes, but only professionally (home composting of animal-based materials is not allowed in the EU)
 - Re-use: the tanning liquid can be reused
 
 Needs further research?:  Not sure
@@ -207,7 +207,7 @@ Fish skins are considered a waste product of the fishing industry and are often
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/flowerpaper.md

@@ -34,7 +34,7 @@ Final form achieved after: 2-4 weeks
 
 * **Bouquet of withered flowers**, the ones the florist throws away
 	* Flowers will provide the cellulose and fibres to make the paper
-* **Soda ash** (carbonate soda), 15 g
+* **Soda ash** (sodium carbonate Na2CO3), 15 g
 	* To wash off dirt and grit
 * **Water**, enough to cover the dried flowers
 * **a coffee filter** to filter the fine particles from the flower dye
@@ -256,7 +256,7 @@ Needs further research?:  Not sure
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/kombuchapaper.md

-# KOMBUCHA PAPER
+# KOMBUCHA FOIL/LEATHER
 
 <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XaFScq8vYMQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
 ##GENERAL INFORMATION
 
-This is a thin translucent bacterial cellulose material resembling paper, made of a dried 3-5mm kombucha SCOBY. The kombucha paper is translucent, sometimes with visible traces of the yeast and bacteria strings. The color varies with the liquid the SCOBY was grown in. It is comparable to parchment paper or tracing paper in terms of sound and translucence, but has less uniform shape, thickness and color. Yeast strains that may be browner etc, give the finished product a type of "grain" like wood or leather might have. 
+This is a thin translucent bacterial cellulose material resembling paper or a foil, made of a dried 3-5mm kombucha SCOBY cellulose pellicle. The kombucha foil is translucent, sometimes with visible traces of the yeast and bacteria strings. The color varies with the liquid the SCOBY was grown in. It is comparable to parchment paper or tracing paper in terms of sound and translucence, but has less uniform shape, thickness and color. Yeast strains that may be browner etc, give the finished product a type of "grain" like wood or leather might have. 
 
 **Physical form**
 
@@ -23,22 +23,19 @@ Need attention: every day
 Final form achieved after: 5 days
 
 **Estimated cost (consumables)**
-0,64 Euros, for a yield of one piece of paper
+0,64 Euros, for a yield of one piece
 
 ##RECIPE
 
 ###Ingredients
 
-* **Kombucha SCOBY** - 1 piece of 3-5 mm thickness, grow one with [this recipe](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/kombuchascoby)
-* **Turpentine** - 1 tbsp (15 ml) + a little more
+* **Kombucha SCOBY pellicle** - 1 piece of 5-7 mm thickness for paper-like materials, or 8-15 mm for leather-like material. Grow one with [this recipe](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/kombuchascoby)
+* **Coconut oil** - 1 tbsp (15 ml)
 * **Beeswax, melted** - 1 tbsp (15 ml)
-* **Boiled Linseed/Flax oil** - 1 tbsp (15 ml) you can get this at a hardware story, this is not the same as the food-grade one from the supermarket.
-
 
 ###Tools
 
 1. **Gloves**
-1. **Mask**
 1. **A glass jar**, to mix the treatment
 1. **A pot**, big enough to put the glass jar in (bain marie)
 1. **A spoon**, for stirring
@@ -55,32 +52,28 @@ One sheet of kombucha paper.
 
 1. **Preparing the after-treatment for a kombucha sheet**
 
-	- Wear gloves and a mask, this process creates fumes that are not very pleasant nor healthy, work in a well-ventilated area. 
 	- Take the kombucha sheet out of its bath, wash in soapy cold water and dry it off with some kitchen paper. Put it on the silicone mat. Some kombucha SCOBY's will be a bit uneven and might have a hole or a tear. You can rearrange it a bit and put these bits back together, in the drying process these parts will reattach if they're overlapping. 
 	- Melt the beeswax so you can take one tablespoon of it. (Put a chunk of wax in a glass jar that I melt au bain marie. You can then let it cool inside the jar where I store it for later).
-	- Mix the turpentine and the linen oil, warm up slightly over the steam of the bain marie (this helps to mix it with the hot beeswax without making lumps and flakes). 
+	- Warm up a bit of coconutoil so it becomes liquid (you can use the bain marie)
+	-  Mix the liquid bees wax and coconut oil and store in a container.
 
+	
 1. **Applying the water-proofing treatment**
+	
+	- Place the kombucha pellicle on a smooth surface for drying 
+	-  Apply the coconut oil/beeswax mixture to one side of the kombucha sheet with a brush or with your fingers. Massage it in. 
+	- Let the kombucha sheet dry for a few days
+	- Peel the sheet off, turn over, and apply the treatment to the other side.  
 
-	- 	While both liquids are warm, mix them. 
-	-  While still warm: apply to one side of the kombucha sheet with a brush or with your fingers. Massage it in. Doing this over the steam of the bain marie helps to keep it liquid (it solidifies very quickly).
-	- Let the kombucha sheet dry.
-
-1. **Apply the treatment on the other side**
-
-	- When the first side is totally dry, carefully peel the kombucha off the silicone mat or baking paper and flip it so you can treat the other side. 
-	- Reheat the mixture in a bain marie, add another teaspoon of turpentine (it will have evaporated somewhat during the first round).
-	- Rub it in on the other side and leave to dry again.
-
-1. **Drying**
+1. **Drying and pressing**
 
-	- Let the sheet dry completely
+	- Leave to dry again. When the sheet is fully dehydrated, any excess treatment can be wiped off with a paper towel.
 	- Once dry, press it between baking paper under a stack of heavy books so it becomes totally flat and even.
 
 ###Drying/curing/growth process
 
-- Thickness before drying:		5 mm for thin paper-like sheets, 10-15 mm for leather-like material
-- Shrinkage thickness       80-90 %
+- Thickness before drying:		5 mm for thin paper-like sheets, 8-12 mm for leather-like material
+- Shrinkage thickness       70-80%
 - Shrinkage width/length     0-10 %
 
 **Shrinkage and deformation control**
@@ -92,7 +85,7 @@ Do not peel it the kombucha scoby off the silicone mat in between stages. Just l
 None, any flexible surface to dry the sheet on will work fine as long as you can peel it off (don't use acrylic or glass sheets, it will get stuck). Use vaseline as release agents for other types of moulds. 
 
 **Minimum wait time before releasing from mold**
-3 days or when dry
+3-7 days or when dry
 
 **Post-processing**
 Keep pressed for a few more days. Store dry and flat, add some rice as desiccant.
@@ -103,17 +96,18 @@ Not sure
 
 ###Process pictures
 
-![](../../images/kombuleather7.jpg)*Preparing tools and ingredients, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+![](../../images/kombu_treat_coconut_beeswax.jpg)*Ingredients for the pellicle treatment, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 ![](../../images/kombuleather8.jpg)*Melting the beeswax au bain marie, Loes Bogers, 2020*
-![](../../images/kombuleather13.jpg)*Applying the warm mixture for the second time (after the top has dried), note: it is easier to do this over the steam of the bain marie to keep it warm and liquid, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 ![](../../images/kombuleather14.jpg)*Two kombucha papers: one that was left alone during the drying process (top), one that was moved and lifted during the drying process (bottom), Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ###Variations
 
-- The same process can be used to create more leather-like sheets. Follow the exact same recipe but use a SCOBY that grew into 10-15 mm thickness instead of 3-5mm. 
+- The same process can be used to create more leather-like sheets. Follow the exact same recipe but use a SCOBY that grew into 8-15 mm thickness instead of 3-5mm. 
 - The kombucha paper takes on the shape it dries in, try drying the paper on top of a mold to let it dry and contract into a 3D shape. Use vaseline as a release agent. 
 - Dye the pellicle before oiling and drying, by dipping it into a concentrated natural dye. It takes on dye quite well.  
-- Coconut oil as post-treatment has also been suggested. Rub it into the wet kombucha pellicle. Without a sealant, the kombucha could become sticky if worn in the rain. Full water resistance can be achieved if using acrylic or oil based sealers, but then the material is no longer safely biodegradable.
+- Other treatments have been suggested to make the leatherlike pellicles more water resistant. Without a sealant, the kombucha could become sticky if worn in the rain. Full water resistance can be achieved if using acrylic or oil based sealers, but then the material is no longer safely biodegradable. One such variation consists of one part turpentine, one part boiled linseed oil and one part bees wax (see also th34d5 in the references).
+- Other alternatives can be found in treatments for wooden chopping boards (food safe!). [Uulki wood oil & wax](https://www.uulki.com/en/shop/uulki-natural-wood-wax-cutting-boards/) is one that creates nice smooth results when applied to the wet pellicle. It's a Belgian product and is 100% vegan (if you don't want to use bees wax), and contains no mineral oils or solvents. Apply this treatment **after** drying. 
+-  If your SCOBY pellicles are very uneven, you can also puree them with a blender, and spread the puree out to dry. Apply after-treatment when dry in this case.
 
 ##ORIGINS & REFERENCES
 
@@ -138,7 +132,7 @@ thr34d5's recipe is published under a Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike 4
 
 Because the SCOBY scan regrow itself infinitely with a bit of water, tea and sugar, and can be composted, it's a relatively uncontroversial material but still requires resources and more importantly, a lot of time. Especially in colder climates it is tempting to use heating to speed up the growth. As a material, it is still very much in development.
 
-Additives and post-treatments like boiled linseed oil and turpentine are not necessarily eco-friendly products. Chemicals are added to boiled linseed oil to make it dry quicker than raw linseed oil for example. There is room for improvement in the area of techniques and compounds to make the pellicles stronger and more durable. 
+Other suggested post-treatments may contain boiled linseed oil and turpentine, or mineral oil (e.g. vaseline). These are not eco-friendly products: turpentine and mineral oil are petrol-based (by-products), and boiled linseed oil contains all sort of chemicals for faster drying. There is room for improvement in the area of techniques and compounds to make the pellicles stronger, water resistant and more durable. That said, beeswax might be a no-go as it's an animal product, and coconut oil has been linked to child labour and monkey labour. So always research the sources and production ethics of companies where you are buying. 
 
 **Sustainability tags**
 
@@ -152,7 +146,7 @@ Needs further research?:  Not sure
 
 ##PROPERTIES
 
-- **Strength**: fragile
+- **Strength**: variable; paper is more fragile, thicker pellicles are very strong.
 - **Hardness**: resilient
 - **Transparency**: translucent
 - **Glossiness**: matt
@@ -161,15 +155,15 @@ Needs further research?:  Not sure
 - **Texture**: medium
 - **Temperature**: medium
 - **Shape memory**: high
-- **Odor**: moderate (the turpentine in the treatment lingers for a while)
+- **Odor**: moderate (the smell of fermentation and the treatment linger but largely disappear eventually)
 - **Stickiness**: low
 - **Weather resistance:** needs further research
 - **Acoustic properties:** needs further research
-- **Anti-bacterial:** needs further research
-- **Non-allergenic:** needs further research
+- **Anti-bacterial:** needs further research (anti-microbial properties have been suggested)
+- **Non-allergenic:** needs further research (bio-compatibility has been suggested)
 - **Electrical properties:** needs further research
 - **Heat resistance:** low
-- **Water resistance:** water resistant
+- **Water resistance:** water resistant after treatment
 - **Chemical resistance:** needs further research
 - **Scratch resistance:** moderate
 - **Surface friction:** medium
@@ -186,7 +180,7 @@ Needs further research?:  Not sure
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8
@@ -211,4 +205,5 @@ Has recipe been validated? Yes, By Cecilia Raspanti, TextileLab, Waag Amsterdam,
 - **Kombucha Fashion** by Cameron Wilson, Peter Musk and Jimmy Eng for the The Edge, State Library of Queensland, n.d. [link](https://wiki.edgeqld.org.au/doku.php?id=workshops:public:kombucha_fashion:start)
 - **QUT reveals how you can make your own leather at home** by The Conversation, republished by SmartCompany, 24 November, 2016: [link](https://www.smartcompany.com.au/startupsmart/advice/startupsmart-growth/startupsmart-innovation/qut-reveals-how-you-can-make-your-own-leather-at-home/)
 - **From Peel to Peel** by Emma Sicher, n.d. [link](https://frompeeltopeel.tumblr.com/)
+- **Palm vs. Coconut Oil: What's the more Sustainable Choice?** by Nithin Coca for *Pulitzer Center*, 8 April 2020, [link](https://pulitzercenter.org/reporting/palm-vs-coconut-oil-whats-more-sustainable-choice)
 

docs/files/recipes/kombuchascoby.md

 # KOMBUCHA SCOBY
 
-![](../../images/finalpics-194.jpg)*A young kombucha SCOBY, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+![](../../images/finalpics-194.jpg)*A young kombucha SCOBY pellicle, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ##GENERAL INFORMATION
 
-This is a living microbial culture also called a kombucha SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast) that can be used to ferment sugary tea, transforming sugars into acids. It can also be used as a material in and of itself, for leather alternatives and paper-like thin materials. See also this [recipe for Kombucha Paper](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/kombuchapaper/).
+This is a recipe to grow a cellulose pellicle from a living microbial culture. The bacteria cultivated here is called *acetobacter* and can be found in a fermented tea drink called kombucha. This recipe describes how to cultivate a kombucha SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast), which is often used to ferment sugary tea, because it can transform sugars into acids. Acetobacter is one of the important bacteria in the bacteria/yeast culture, and requires oxygen to live and grow; it is *aerobic*. As a result it slowly forms a cellulose pellicle where the liquid is in contact with air (i.e. at the surface). 
+
+When dried, the cellulose pellicle can be used as leather alternatives and paper-like thin materials. Following this procedure will grow a thin pellicle to start with, it will get thicker as you start to use it more. See also this [recipe for Kombucha Paper](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/kombuchapaper/). 
+
+*Note: this recipe is meant to provide tips on how to make a microbial _material_. Whereas the process is safe to do, it does not cover a process for human consumption per se, and cannot guarantee food safe practices. Don't consume your SCOBY or kombucha tea until you have thoroughly informed yourself on safe fermentation processes. When in doubt, throw it out.*
 
 **Physical form**
 
@@ -24,27 +28,27 @@ Final form achieved after: 3-5 weeks if all goes well.
 
 **Estimated cost (consumables)**
 
-Approx. 6,15 Euros for a yield of initially two, but eventually infinite SCOBYs if kept alive with more sugar and tea or other nutrient. 
+Approx. 6,15 Euros for a yield of initially two, but eventually infinite cellulose pellicles if kept alive with more sugar and tea or other nutrient. 
 
 ##RECIPE
 
 ###Ingredients
 
-There are various ways to do this and different methods work for different people, also depending on the temperature in your home. Here we use the living culture from store-bought kombucha and add some extra nutrients by preparing some sugary black tea for it to grow a little faster. The ratio is 2:1 kombucha, sugary tea.
+There are various ways to do this and different methods work for different people, also depending on the temperature in your home. Here we use the living culture from store-bought kombucha and add some extra nutrients by preparing some sugary black tea for it to grow a little faster. This recipe helps you start, but growing a healthy culture can take multiple cycles, so don't give up!
 
 Try to work as sterile as possible throughout. 
 
 * **Kombucha drink with live culture (raw), without flavouring** 
 	* used here: Yaya Kombucha Original (Ekoplaza supermarket)
 	* 660 ml (2x 330 ml) or just make sure to make a 2:1 ratio of raw kombucha and sugary tea).
-	* we will cultivate the live bacteria in the drink and grow them into a solid SCOBY
+	* we will cultivate the live bacteria in the drink and grow them into a solid cellulose pellicle
 	* some say it's best to find a bottle that already has some blobs of culture (baby scoby's) sitting at the bottom. 
-* **Denatured alcohol 96%** to desinfect all your tools and pots
-* **Two large round coffee filters** to prevent contamination by fruit flies
+* **Denatured alcohol 96%, or white vinegar** to desinfect all your tools and pots
+* **Two large round coffee filters**, or clean cloth like a tea towel, to prevent contamination by fruit flies
 * **Two rubber bands** to prevent contamination by fruit flies
 * **Water - 330 ml**,  to make black tea
 * **1 tea bag of black tea**, organic simple black tea such as ceylon, darjeeling or English breakfast are good options. 
-* **(organic) sugar - 30 g**, just plain white sugar is best.
+* **(organic) sugar - 30 g**, white sugar or cane sugar.
 * Optional: a splash of vinegar if your water is alkaline
 
 ###Tools
@@ -52,7 +56,7 @@ Try to work as sterile as possible throughout.
 1. **Two glass jars** try to get a wider ones, min 10 cm diameter
 1. **A pot** 
 1. **Kitchen paper**
-1. **Anti-bacterial soap and kitchen towels** to wash your hands
+1. **Anti-bacterial soap** to wash your hands
 1. **A scale**
 1. **A spoon**
 1. **A thermometer**
@@ -60,20 +64,22 @@ Try to work as sterile as possible throughout.
 
 ###Yield 
 
-2 SCOBY's if all goes well. They will grow the same size and shape as the diameter of the jars you grown them in. 
+2 cellulose pellicles if all goes well. They will grow the same size and shape as the diameter of the jars you grown them in. 
 
 ###Method
 
 1. **Create a sterile environment**
 
 	- Wash your hands with soap for at least 20 seconds
-	- Sterilize all your tools with 95% denatured alcohol
+	- Sterilize all your tools with 95% denatured alcohol or white vinegar.
 	- If you don't have alcohol: sterilize with hot water. Don't put cold glass inside hot water! It will break. Heat up slowly.  
 
 1. **Prepare the sugary tea**
 
 	- Boil the water
-	- Add the teabag and turn off the heat. Let the tea brew and let it cool all the way down to 30 degrees Celcius (so you don't kill the bacteria of the kombucha). 
+	- Add the teabag and turn off the heat. Let the tea brew for 5 minutes (for black tea, or 3 minutes for green tea)
+	- Take out the teabags with a sterile tool
+	- Let it cool all the way down to 30 degrees Celcius (so you don't kill the bacteria of the kombucha). 
 
 1. **Mix in the kombucha and seal**
 	- Make sure all is sterile - maybe wash your hands again? 
@@ -83,27 +89,23 @@ Try to work as sterile as possible throughout.
 	- Seal them with a coffee filter and a rubber band to prevent fruit flies from going in. You don't want their larvae in your SCOBY. You want to ensure air flow without letting any bugs in. You can also do this with a clean cloth, but make sure the mesh is small enough. 
 
 1. **Let it grow**
-	- Put it in a warm place but away from direct sunlight (preferably in the dark), and leave it for 2-3 weeks, or until it has grown 5 mm thick (to use for paper) or closer to 10-15 mm thick, to grow for leather-like pellicles. Do not move the jars. 
+	- Put it in a warm place but away from direct sunlight (preferably in the dark, like a cupboard), and leave it for 2-3 weeks, or until it has grown 5-8 mm thick (to create paper-like cellulose) or closer to 10-15 mm thick, to grow for leather-like pellicles. 
+	- Do NOT move the jars, the pellicle will sink and you will have to start over
 	- Check regularly for unusual growth. Ideally your SCOBY becomes a thick white-ish film floating on top of the liquid. But it takes many forms and can definitely look funny. Learn how to discriminate between a heathy SCOBY and fungal or yeast growth. The resources from [Kombucha Camp](https://www.kombuchakamp.com/kombucha-mold-information-and-pictures) are a good starting point. 
 
 1. **Use your SCOBY**
 
-	- If it has grown to a thickness of minimum 5 mm you can use your SCOBY to make paper or leather (or kombucha tea) see [this recipe for Kombucha paper](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/kombuchapaper/)
-	- You can also use your SCOBY to grow more SCOBYs: 		- wash your hands and sterilyze your tools again?
-		- cut a 5x5 cm square (approx.) off your SCOBY 
-		- prepare another jar of sugary tea and seal as described above
-
-	- If not, give it some more time. Or feed your SCOBY to let it grow bigger:
-		- sterilize everything and wash your hands again thoroughly
-		- prepare another jar of sugary tea as described above, let it cool to 30 degrees. 
-		- then add the SCOBY and half of the growing water and let it rest for three more weeks. Your SCOBY will grow bigger the more often you use it to make kombucha. 
-	
+	- If it has grown to a thickness of minimum 5 mm you can use your SCOBY pellicle to make paper or leather (or kombucha tea) see [this recipe for Kombucha paper](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/kombuchapaper/). Take it out with clean hands!
+	- and/or: re-use the liquid to grow more pellicles, it now has more living culture in it.	
+		- wash your hands and sterilize your tools again?
+		- make some more sugary tea as described above and add it to the liquid from the previous brew. Use at least 25-75% sour liquid from a previous brew (it smells like vinegar).  More mature culture = faster pellicle growth.
+		- instead of adding tea, you can also continue brewing by adding sugar and beer. You don't need to dissolve the sugar. 
 
 ###Drying/curing/growth process
 
 It is important not to disturb the SCOBY, just leave it in peace. Use glass jars so you can peek inside without touching it. Check for irregular growth. Start over if unsure. 
 
-- Mold depth and diameter: height = 20 cm or less, diameter = 10 cm or more
+- Mold depth and diameter: liquid should reach 5-10 cm deep
 - Shrinkage thickness       N/A
 - Shrinkage width/length    N/A
 
@@ -121,26 +123,35 @@ Make a **SCOBY hotel** to store your SCOBY for later use:
 
 **Further research needed on drying/curing/growth?**
 
-Yes, there's a huge kombucha community out there. Get connected and learn all the ins and outs. 
+Yes, there's a huge kombucha community out there. Get connected and learn all the ins and outs. [This article](http://users.bestweb.net/~om/kombucha_balance/) by Len Porzio is helpful for troubleshooting. You are basically growing bacteria and yeast here, but in the end you want the bacteria (the pancake) to become big and thick and smooth and the kombucha tea is secondary. Len describes ways to balance that out and influence the growth. Know that most of hese recipes have the objective to brew the *tea*, whereas we're looking to grow the pellicle.
+
+Note: there's some confusion about what is the SCOBY. It is interpreted here as the culture of bacteria and yeast as a whole that resides in the liquid *and* the pellicle. When we refer to SCOBY it is the whole whereas other might use the word to refer only to the pellicle. To grow pellicles, you don't need a pellicle per se, but you do need a starter culture (that can be liquid or in the form of the pellicle, or both).
 
 ###Process pictures
 
 ![](../../images/kombu1.jpeg)*Preparing for a few jars, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
-![](../../images/kombunew1.jpg)*Without cover for the picture: some experiments brewing, slowly growing a thin SCOBY after two weeks, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+![](../../images/kombunew1.jpg)*Without cover for the picture: some experiments brewing, slowly growing a thin pellicle after two weeks, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ![](../../images/kombunew2.jpg)*Cover to keep some light out, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 
 ###Variations
 
-- Kombucha SCOBY can grow in many different liquids (wine, beer, green/black tea) that each give a different color to the SCOBY as well. Natural colorants can be added to the tea (such as hibiscus, beetroot etc). 
+- Kombucha SCOBY can grow in many different liquids (wine, beer, green/black tea) that each give a different color to the pellicle as well. Natural colorants can be added to the tea (such as hibiscus, beetroot etc). 
+- Green tea is said to produce thicker SCOBY pellicles (see also Len Porzio's article listed below), brew green tea for only 3 mins. Or use a mix of black and green tea.
 - Try out different treatments for the kombucha, such as coconut oil or other natural and essential oils.
 - Research the use of growing mats and temperature controlled boxes to keep your SCOBY at 24 to 30 degrees Celcius for optimal growth and the smallest chance at mold formation. Ideal temperature is 27 degrees celcius. If you use a plant mat, don't put it underneath the jar but rather wrap it around it (otherwise you're more likely to increase yeast growth instead of SCOBY growth). 
+- Or try growing a piece of SCOBY (5x5cm) further on 250 ml of dyed water (consider autoclaving it first to sterilize), some of the kombucha starter liquid (up to 250 ml), 50g sugar and 50 ml vinegar. 
 - **The NOMA guide to fermentation** is a great resource on microbial growth for safe human consumption that describes how you can make a fermentation chamber form a styrofoam cooler. 
 - Try growing a mature piece of SCOBY in other liquids such as **Lorena Trebbi's recipes** using 200 ml (organic) red wine, 200ml water and 40g sugar. Or start a new one with 200 ml raw kombucha tea, 200 ml of organic red wine and 20 g sugar.  
-- Or Lorena's **beer version** that is said to grow very fast(!) using 300 ml organic craft beer, 300 ml water, 60 g sugar and 60 g white vinegar with a 5x5 cm piece of mature SCOBY. 
-- Or try growing a piece of SCOBY (5x5cm) further on 500 ml of dyed water (consider autoclaving it first to sterilize), 50g sugar and 50 ml vinegar. 
+- Or Lorena's **beer version** that grows very fast, using 300 ml (organic) beer, 300 ml water, 60 g sugar and 60 g white vinegar with a SCOBY pellicle (of at least 5x5 cm), see images below. 
+- A **simpler variation** on the beer brew is: use starter liquid from a previous brew, add the same amount of beer (just lager is fine), and 120 g of sugar for each added liter of liquid (by Loes Bogers). 
+
+![](../../images/kombu_beerscoby.jpg)*the SCOBY pellicle from this recipe after continuing to grow it on beer for 2.5 weeks, following Lorena's recipe. The bottom side is totally smooth*
+
+![](../../images/kombu_beerscoby2.jpg)*the SCOBY pellicle from this recipe after continuing to grow it on beer for 2.5 weeks, following Lorena's recipe. The bottom is totally smooth*
+
 
 
 ##ORIGINS & REFERENCES
@@ -149,7 +160,7 @@ Yes, there's a huge kombucha community out there. Get connected and learn all th
 
 Kombucha is an ancient Chinese fermented drink made of sweetened green or black tea and yeast and bacteria cultures. It is said to have originated in Manchuria (now Northeast China) and was hailed for its curing qualities. It spread across Asia and later also Russia. It was brought to Europe with the expansion of trade routes in the 1900s where it gained popularity (most notably in Germany and Switzerland, as "Kombuchaschwamm" due to alleged health benefits comparable to those of yoghurt. Initially it was brewed by enthousiasts sharing the mother SCOBY or mushroom with a grassroots community of fermentation lovers, both in Europe and the U.S. Commercial enterprises started to pop up from the mid-90s onwards and recently one of the big kombucha brewers KeVita was purchased by PepsiCo for $200 million. 
 
-Using Kombucha SCOBY's as a design material took off most notably after Suzanne Lee's Ted talk "Grow Your Own Clothes" in 2011. And the use of kombucha cellulose as vegan leather has been further developed and shared by many other initiatives like thr34d5, the fashion department of Queensland University of Technology and scientists from The Edge, State Library of Queensland, Australia. 
+Using Kombucha SCOBY pellicles as a design material took off most notably after Suzanne Lee's Ted talk "Grow Your Own Clothes" in 2011. And the use of kombucha cellulose as vegan leather has also been developed and shared by many other initiatives like thr34d5, the fashion department of Queensland University of Technology and scientists from The Edge, State Library of Queensland, Australia. 
 
 **Needs further research?**   Not sure
 
@@ -169,7 +180,7 @@ Techniques for growing kombucha SCOBY are documented widely and considered somet
 
 Needs further research
 
-Because the SCOBY scan regrow itself infinitely with a bit of water, tea and sugar, and can be composted, it's a relatively uncontroversial material but still requires resources and more importantly, a lot of time. Especially in colder climates it is tempting to use heating to speed up the growth. As a material, it is still very much in development.
+Because the pellicle can regrow itself infinitely with a bit of water, tea and sugar, and can be composted, it's a relatively uncontroversial material but still requires resources and more importantly, a lot of time. Especially in colder climates it is tempting to use heating to speed up the growth. As a material, it is still very much in development.
 
 Additives and post-treatments to dry and tan the pellicle, like boiled linseed oil and turpentine are not necessarily eco-friendly products. Chemicals are added to boiled linseed oil to make it dry quicker than raw linseed oil for example. There is room for improvement in the area of techniques and compounds to make the pellicles stronger and more durable. 
 
@@ -179,7 +190,7 @@ Additives and post-treatments to dry and tan the pellicle, like boiled linseed o
 - Vegan: yes
 - Made of by-products or waste:  yes
 - Biocompostable final product:  yes
-- Re-use: you can continue to use SCOBYs to grow more SCOBY, more kombucha, more is more. 
+- Re-use: you can continue to use the liquid SCOBY to grow more SCOBY pellicles, and more kombucha, more is more. 
 
 Needs further research?:  Not sure
 
@@ -194,18 +205,18 @@ Needs further research?:  Not sure
 - **Texture**: smooth
 - **Temperature**: cool
 - **Shape memory**: low
-- **Odor**: strong (acidic smell while growing)
+- **Odor**: strong (while growing, can be acidic or other flavours depending on the growth of bacteria and yeast)
 - **Stickiness**: low
 - **Weather resistance:** N/A
 - **Acoustic properties:** N/A
 - **Anti-bacterial:** antimicrobial effect on some types of microbes, (see Jayabalan et.al. below) 
 - **Non-allergenic:** needs further research
 - **Electrical properties:** needs further research
-- **Heat resistance:** low
-- **Water resistance:** N/A
-- **Chemical resistance:** low
-- **Scratch resistance:** low
-- **Surface friction:** low
+- **Heat resistance:** needs further research
+- **Water resistance:** N/A (while alive)
+- **Chemical resistance:** low (while alive, will likely kill bacteria)
+- **Scratch resistance:** N/A (while alive)
+- **Surface friction:** N/A
 - **Color modifiers:** none 
 
 ##ABOUT
@@ -219,7 +230,7 @@ Needs further research?:  Not sure
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8
@@ -230,7 +241,7 @@ Has recipe been validated? Yes, by Cecilia Raspanti, TextileLab, Waag Amsterdam,
 
 **Images of the final sample**
 
-![](../../images/finalpics-194.jpg)*A young kombucha SCOBY, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+![](../../images/finalpics-194.jpg)*A young, thin kombucha SCOBY pellicle, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ##REFERENCES
 
@@ -253,4 +264,6 @@ Has recipe been validated? Yes, by Cecilia Raspanti, TextileLab, Waag Amsterdam,
 - **QUT reveals how you can make your own leather at home** by The Conversation, republished by SmartCompany, 24 November, 2016: [link](https://www.smartcompany.com.au/startupsmart/advice/startupsmart-growth/startupsmart-innovation/qut-reveals-how-you-can-make-your-own-leather-at-home/)
 - **Kombucha 101: Demystifying the Past Present and Future of the Fermented Tea Drink** by Christina Troitino for Forbes, 1 Feb 2017:[link](https://www.forbes.com/sites/christinatroitino/2017/02/01/kombucha-101-demystifying-the-past-present-and-future-of-the-fermented-tea-drink/)
 - **Why is PH important for brewing kombucha?** by Fermentaholics, n.d.: [link](https://fermentaholics.com/why-is-ph-important-for-kombucha/)
+- **Kombucha: the balancing act** by Len Porzio, n.d. [link](http://users.bestweb.net/~om/kombucha_balance/)
+- **What's in my kombucha?** by Cultures for Health, n.d. [link](https://www.culturesforhealth.com/learn/kombucha/kombucha-bacteria-yeast/)
 

docs/files/recipes/madderdye.md

@@ -30,10 +30,9 @@ Final form achieved after: 2 hours
 
 ###Ingredients
 
-* **madder roots (dried) -  50 g** also: Rubia Tinctorum, this is the dye stuff
+* **madder roots (dried) -  50 g** also: Rubia Tinctorum, this is the dye stuff. Is enough for 50-100g WoF (weight of fibre).
 * **water -  500 ml/g** solvent
-* **alum - 30 g** (also: potassium aluminium sulphate) will draw the pigment out of the madder root.
-* **soda ash - 5 g** to create bright reds
+* **soda ash - 5 g** (sodium carbonate Na2CO3), changes PH (more alkaline) to create bright reds
 * **a coffee filter** to filter the fine particles from the dye
 * optional: 100% pure silk, or aquarel/water colors paper and a paint brush to test the dye/ink
 
@@ -58,22 +57,24 @@ Approx. 500 ml
 
 1. **Preparation**
 
-	- Weigh the ingredients (and, optional: grind the madder root into a powder using a blender. By making the dye stuff smaller, you create more surface, which makes it easier to pull the pigments out of the madder root). 
+	- Weigh the ingredients
+	- Put the madder roots in water and let them soak for 24 hours before processing (also when using madder powder)
+	- optional: grind the madder root into a powder using a blender. By making the dye stuff smaller, you create more surface, which makes it easier to pull the pigments out of the madder root. 
 
-1. **Extract the pigment with alum**
+1. **Extract the pigment**
 
-	- Bring 600 ml of water to the boil, add the alum and stir to dissolve. Bring the water down to 70 degrees celcius. Use a thermometer and make sure it doesn't exceed 70 degrees throughout the entire cooking process (the madder pigment will turn dull and brown).
+	- Heat 600 ml of water up to 70 degrees celcius. Use a thermometer and make sure it doesn't exceed 70 degrees throughout the entire cooking process (the madder pigment will turn dull and brown).
 	- Add the ground madder roots and simmer at 70 degrees for 60 minutes.
 	- Strain the liquid into a bowl (keep the madder roots)
 	- Put the dye back into the pot, and add the soda ash (it will froth a little), stir and continue to simmer for 10-15 minutes. This is the dye for bright reds. 
 	- Filter the liquid through a cheesecloth or coffee filter to filter out the solid bits. This may take a while.   
 
-	- Optional: you can keep the madder roots for a second filtration with alum solution. It won't be as intense but you will continue to get color from it albeit a bit lighter. If it holds no more color, add vinegar or another acid to modify the color of the dye from the second filtration to orange and yellow colors. 
+	- Optional: you can keep the madder roots for a second filtration. It won't be as intense but you will continue to get color from it albeit a bit lighter. If it holds no more color, add vinegar or another acid to modify the color of the dye from the second filtration to orange and yellow colors. 
 
 1. **Using the ink as a dye or on paper**
 
 	- Use a funnel to transfer your dye into a glass jar.
-	- Use the warm dye immediately by adding a piece of wet silk or other (mordanted fibre) to it and leave overnight. Don't put silk in hot water, it damages the fibre. Then rinse and dry the silk. 
+	- Use the warm dye immediately by adding a piece of wet silk or other (mordanted) fibre to it and leave overnight. Don't put silk in hot water, it damages the fibre. Then rinse and dry the silk. 
 	- You can also use it as an ink (hot or cold). Use fine chinese brushes and aquarel/water colors paper.
 	- To store: add a clove and store in the fridge or freeze. If it smells weird or grows fungus, throw it away and make new ink. 
 	- Using the dye at a later stage: warm up the dye by putting the glass jar au bain marie (put it in a larger pot with boiling water). Slowly heat it up until warm, not hot. Add (mordanted) fibres such as silk, leave overnight for deep hues. 
@@ -83,8 +84,6 @@ Approx. 500 ml
 
 ![](../../images/madder1.jpg)*Madder roots, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
-![](../../images/madder2.jpg)*Adding alum , Loes Bogers, 2020*
-
 ![](../../images/madder3.jpg)*After the first extraction, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ![](../../images/madder4.jpg)*Add a pinch of soda ash, Loes Bogers, 2020*
@@ -96,6 +95,11 @@ Approx. 500 ml
 
 - You can extract pigment (insoluble particles) for paints by adding a 10% carbonate soda solution (25g of soda ash on 250g hot water). Add only little bits because it froths a lot. Let it precipitate and filter it through a fine cloth. Dry the solids and add a binder to create paints. See also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YVO2Dr8gD8.
 - Add a binder such as arabic gum to create a nicer flow if you wish to use this ink for painting and arts, not dyeing textiles. 
+- madder can also used cold: liquidize the soaked roots, add 6% WoF calcium carbonate, add water and let it stand - covered - for 4-7 days. Stir occasionally. Then add mordanted fibre. See also: http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/madder_dye_nest_rubio.html
+- when dyeing cotton: add 6% WoF calcium carbonate (limestone) dissolved in a bit of hot water for richer color, the chalk acts as a calcium binder.
+- when dyeing silk or wool: some ammonia may be added for deeper reds, either by soaking the madder in ammonia overnight, or by adding some to the dye bath. 
+- make a post-mordant bath with 6% WoF calcium carbonate (chalk) dissolved in a bit of hot water to help attach the fibre. 
+ 
 
 
 ##ORIGINS & REFERENCES
@@ -159,7 +163,7 @@ How often can this dye be reused? Overview of colors from second, third, fourth(
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/mangoleather.md

@@ -32,8 +32,8 @@ Final form achieved after: 7 days
 ###Ingredients
 
 * **1 Overripe mango - with skin** get these as waste from the market, they can have dents and bruises it doesn't matter. We will dehydrate the mango until it becomes leather-like.
-* **Potato starch - 15 g** functions as the polymeer (makes the mango puree harder)
-* **White vinegar - 15 gr** vinegar is almost always added to starch-based biopolymers to change the molecular structure of the starch, making it stronger and more workable
+* **Potato starch - 1 tbsp (10 g)** functions as the polymeer (makes the mango puree harder)
+* **White vinegar - 1 tbsp (8 gr)** vinegar is almost always added to starch-based biopolymers to change the molecular structure of the starch, making it stronger and more workable
 * **Salt - 5 gr** as a preservative and stabilizer. 
 * **Vegetable oil - 1 tbsp** as a release agent for the mould.
 
@@ -58,7 +58,7 @@ Approx. 25 x 25 cm sheet of 1-2 mm thick
 1. **Preparation**
 
 	- Cut the mango into smaller pieces and puree it in a blender or with a mixer. 
-	- Prepare the mold by applying some oil
+	- Optional: Prepare the mold by applying some oil
 	- Dissolve the starch in a dash of water until liquid
 
 1. **Mixing the ingredients and activating the starch**
@@ -69,7 +69,7 @@ Approx. 25 x 25 cm sheet of 1-2 mm thick
 
 1. **Casting and dehydrating in the oven**
 
-	- 	Pour the paste onto the surface or mould and spread it out evenly, knock it on a hard surface gently to even it out more. 
+	-  Pour the paste onto the surface or mould and spread it out evenly, knock it on a hard surface gently to even it out more. 
 	-  Heat the oven to 50 degrees Celcius on the fan setting and put the paste into the oven for at least 16 hours (you can spread it out over a few days with airdrying in between). If your oven allows it without turning itself off: keep the door slightly open with a cloth to let the moisture escape). 
 	-  Carefully peel thea leather off the tray, flip it, and check if the bottom has fully dried. If not, put back in the oven with the moist side up for another few hours. 
 	-  Optional: you can airdry the leather as well, but there is some more risk of molding. Don't dry it in direct sunlight. 
@@ -81,7 +81,7 @@ Approx. 25 x 25 cm sheet of 1-2 mm thick
 
 ###Drying/curing/growth process
 
-- Mold depth:  				 5 mm (filled 2-3mm high)
+- Mold depth:  				 5 mm (filled 3mm high)
 - Shrinkage thickness:      50 %
 - Shrinkage width/length:   0-5% %
 
@@ -123,10 +123,15 @@ Some more experimentation could be done on the effect of dissipating more or les
 ###Variations
 
 - Add a **natural colorant** such as a vegetable dye or water-based ink (e.g. hibiscus, beetroot, madder). The puree is acidic (PH6-7), consider this in your choice of colorant. Dissipate some more water or to compensate for the added liquid. Adding spices may also work to create color (and smell variations).
-- Add 1-2 tablespoons of **melted bees wax** for a more rigid, more water proof mango leather. 
+- Add 1 tablespoon of **melted bees wax** for a more rigid, more water proof mango leather. 
 - **Stiffeners** such as fibres, yarn or natural debris may be added for more structure and reinforcement.
-- **Other starches** will work, pick whatever is (organically) produced locally. 
-- Try other **fibrous fruit waste **like, apples, pears, peaches, plums or even rhubarb. 
+- **Other starches** will work, pick whatever is (organically) produced locally.  Different starches may have different levels of binding power. If it gets too brittle and cracks, you used too much. 
+- For recipe made of local produce, rather than local waste, try other **fibrous fruit waste** like, apples, peaches, plums or even rhubarb. 
+- Using the fruit leftovers from juicing 10 pears gave good results with this recipe but require longer drying time. Use 2 tbsp of starch and 1/2 a tbsp of glycerine for this amount. 
+
+![](../../images/pear_leather1.jpg)*Variation using pear waste, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+![](../../images/pear_leather2.jpg)*Variation using pear waste, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+![](../../images/pear_leather3.jpg)*Variation using pear waste, Loes Bogers, 2020*
 
 ##ORIGINS & REFERENCES
 
@@ -205,6 +210,7 @@ Needs further research? yes, possibilities of re-using the leather
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/mordants_tannins.md

+# MORDANTS & TANNINS
+
+##GENERAL INFORMATION
+
+Processes for *pre-mordanting* textiles and fibres is discussed here. Simultaneous and post-mordanting is also possible. 
+
+**Physical form**
+
+Pastes, gels & liquids
+
+Mordants, tannins and binders to lock pigments to fibres, for more colorfast dyeing with natural dyes
+
+**Fabrication time**
+
+Preparation time: variable 
+
+Processing time: variable
+
+Need attention: variable
+
+Final form achieved after: a couple hours, up to a week
+
+**Estimated cost (consumables)**
+
+variable
+
+##RECIPE
+
+###Ingredients
+
+One of these or a combination (see below):
+
+* **Alum** (*potassium aluminium sulfate dodecahydrate*)
+* **Cream of Tartar** *(tartaric acid)*
+* **Oak galls**, the whole nut, or powder (*galnut extract, gallotannic acid*)
+* **Soda ash** *(sodium carbonate)*
+* **Soy milk** (soya milk), unflavoured, unsweetened
+* **Symplocos** (*symplocos cochinchinensis, horse sugar, sweetleaf*), leaves or powder, a plant-based alum mordant, e.g. from the Bebali Foundation. Use the yellow ones that have fallen off the shrubs naturally. 
+* **Iron sulphate** (*ferrous sulfate*) powder
+* **Iron liquor** (*ferrous acetate*) made at home by putting rusty nails or other iron scraps in vinegar for a few weeks.
+
+
+###Tools
+
+1. **Big pan**, ideally stainless steel, that is *only* used for dyeing, not for cooking
+1. **Precision scale**
+1. **A spoon**, only used for dyeing, not for preparing food
+1. **Household gloves**
+1. **Tongs**, only used for dyeing, not for preparing food
+
+###Yield
+
+Varies
+
+
+###Method
+
+
+#### Scouring
+
+Dissolve 10% WoF sodacarbonate (soda ash) in hot water. Add damp fibre and let it soak for a few hours, or heat it (max 80 Celcius for protein fibre)
+
+#### Soaking
+
+Some suggest to soak silk for 24h before the dye bath, and wool 30 mins before. I'm not sure if this is suggested for unmordanted fibre and mordanted fibres alike. 
+
+####Mordanting
+
+**General rules of thumb:**
+
+* use 3 L water per 100 g weight of dry fibre (WoF)
+* preferably heat up the water slowly
+* don't shock protein fibre, always rinse with warm water, never heat above 75 degrees celcius. 
+* Know that there are a lot of recipes, best is to start a collection where you make small tests you can compare (be sure to write everything down very precisely). 
+* *steeping* (letting the fibre sit in the mordant bath overnight or longer) and *curing* (drying the mordanted fibre and leaving it alone for a few days before dyeing) allows the mordants to set, some recommend it. 
+* Use rainwater as much as possible
+* You can reuse alum baths to save water and mordant. To recharge the bath, add 25-50% additional dissolved alum, or 1 additional teaspoon per 100 grams of fiber, stir and mordant as above. If you observe excessive cloudiness or large flakes floating in the bath, it is time to change it (after 5 times or so). The same probably works for the other mordants (not tested).
+* Mordanted fibers may be stored damp in a plastic bag and refrigerated for 3-5 days and cured or aged, as this also seems to increase the depth of shade in the dyed fibers.  
+
+**Safety**
+
+Keep dye tools and utensils separate from kitchen tools. Natural does not mean non-toxic! None of this is made for eating or drinking so keep it separate at all times. Alum may be safely disposed in a municipal water system by pouring down the drain.
+
+##**PROTEIN FIBRES**
+
+### Alum (hot)
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Bring to 80 degrees Celcius and let simmer for an hour. Some suggest to steep overnight or even for 3-5 days in the mordant bath. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Alum (cold) 
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Steep for 3-4 weeks inside the mordant bath, stir occassionally. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Alum + Cream of Tartar (for wool)
+
+Cream of Tarter (NL: Wijnsteenzuur) is said to keep wool shiny and soft and brightens the colors. Take your pick: 
+
+* 15-20% alum and 5% CoT (Cecilia Raspanti)
+* 8% Alum and 5% CoT (Botanical Colors)
+* 4/8/12% alum and 3/6/8% CoT (Roos Soetekauw)
+
+Dissolve separately in hot water before adding to a pot. Enough water so the fibres can "swim". Heat slowly to 75 degrees Celcius, keep there for 30-60 minutes. Let steep overnight. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Symplocos (for wool)
+
+Bark of Lodrah (*symplocos racemosa* or *symplocos cochinchinensis*  or *symplocos tinctoria*, all sold as *symplocos*) is a plant that grows on acidic soil and is naturally high in alum. It is cultivated in Asia (e.g. Bebali Foundation in Indonesia) and the Americas. 
+
+20-50% WoF (Botanical Colors) 
+
+Boil the symplocos leaves for 30 minutes at 80 degrees Celcius or until they sink to the bottom of the pot. Let the pot cool to 40 degrees C. Use 50% WoF when you use leaves, or less when using powder. 
+
+Add the fibre and slowly bring pot back to 80 degrees C. Keep there for another 30-60 mins. Rinse the fibre with warm water, it should be slightly yellow now (this will disappear during dyeing). 
+
+Another plant that is known to by naturally high in alum is club moss (NL: wolfsklauw).
+
+### Soy milk (for silk)
+
+In Japan silk is treated with soy milk (see protein recipe below for suggested process). 
+
+### Iron sulphate
+
+0.25 - 1% WoF (when using powder)
+
+Dissolve in hot water before adding to the mordant bath. Mordant fibres for 45-60 mins, rinse. Iron mordant baths can be used to shift color (cold or hot) multiple times, just dip a dyed swatch into the iron bath until the desired color is achieved.  For more info, see below. 
+
+
+##**CELLULOSE FIBRES**
+
+### Alum (hot)
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Bring to 80 degrees Celcius and let simmer for an hour. Some suggest to steep overnight or even for 3-5 days in the mordant bath. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Alum (cold) 
+
+10-15% WoF 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add the fibre. Steep for 3-4 weeks inside the mordant bath, stir occassionally. Rinse before dyeing. 
+
+### Tannin | Alum  
+
+**Step 1: Tannin bath**
+
+10% WoF Gallo-tannin or Tara powder
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add fiber, let it sit for 1-2 hours (no need to heat). Do _**not**_ rinse (or do rinse, like Kim Eichler Messner). But do also try with heating and an overnight steep.
+
+**Step 2: Alum bath**
+
+10-15% WoF Alum
+
+Some add  1.5% Soda ash to this bath (Roos Soetekauw, Kim Eichler Messner)
+
+Dissolve separately in hot water, add together (will create bubbles). Add water and fibre. Boil for 1 hour, steep overnight. Rinse. 
+
+Tannins are for lightfastness. The tannin is not strongly attached to the fiber but adding alum bonds it into place. Oak galls (6-10%), myrobalan, tara powder (10%), sumac, pomegranate (10%), quebracho moreno, walnut hulls and cutch all are good tannins. But some also add color. Oak galls and tara powder are clear, light tannins. 
+
+### Alum + Soda | Soy milk
+
+Treating fibre with alkaline bath and then high-protein bath allows pigment to attach to the fibre more easily. In a way the cellulose will behave more like protein. Milks arent mordants though: they don't chemically bind to the fibre). They are binders and will wash away eventually. 
+
+**Step 1:  Alkaline bath**
+
+2-3% alum | 2% soda 
+
+Dissolve each separately in hot water before combining into a mordant bath. Fibres should be able to "swim". Simmer for 1 hour, and let cool overnight. Rinse before the second bath. Some use fibres without the second bath. 
+
+**Step 2: Protein bath**
+
+(soy) milk to water 1:1 - 1:10
+
+Ratios soy milk to water vary: 1:1 - 1:5 - 1:10. One recipe mentions to add 1 tbsp of soda per 100 ml milk. 
+
+Generally: let the fibre soak in the milk mix for 8-24 hours. Squeeze it out, and let it dry. Then dip again (quick dip so you don't wash off the previous layer), squeeze out, let dry. Repeat again if you wish. 
+
+Then let the fabric cure for a week. **_Don't rinse_** it at any stage! This can be done with soy milk but also rice milk and cow's milk. 
+
+Also cow, goat and sheep's milk work. Or soaking acorns or almonds overnight and blending them can create a protein rich solution (Roos Soetekauw). Other protein baths are: gelatine, blood, yogurt.
+ 
+### Tannin + Symplocos
+
+**Step 1: Tannin bath**
+
+10% WoF Gallo-tannin or Tara powder 
+
+Dissolve in hot water, add fiber, let soak for 1-2 hours (no need to heat)
+
+**Step 2: Symplocos (alkaline) bath**
+
+20-50% WoF Symplocos (Botanical Colors)
+
+Boil the symplocos leaves for 30 minutes at 80 degrees Celcius until they sink to the bottom of the pot. Add the fibre and simmer for another 60 mins. Let it steep overnight. Rinse the fibre with warm water, it should be slightly yellow now (this will disappear during dyeing). 
+
+Another plant that is known to by naturally high in alum is club moss (NL: wolfsklauw).
+
+### Other mordants and tannins
+
+Urine, egg white, blood, ashes, ammonia, myrobalan, sumac, walnut hulls, chestnut hulls, rhubarb leaves, chitin, mango bark, aloe vera leaves, cub moss (NL: wolfsklauw) and many more.
+
+There's renewed interest in plant-based mordants rather than metal-based mordants which would always require some kind of mining, disturbing waterways and natural areas. Look for natural *bioaccummulators* of soil metals: the metals naturally occurring in the earth. These plants can live in very acidic environments, symplocos being one of them, but also club moss.  
+
+### Iron sulphate
+
+0.25 - 3% WoF (when using powder)
+
+Dissolve in hot water before adding to the mordant bath. Mordant fibres for 45-60 mins, rinse. Iron mordant baths can be used to shift color (cold or hot) multiple times, just dip a dyed swatch into the iron bath until the desired color is achieved. 
+
+Iron sulphate is the least polluting after alum and is a waste product. It should be mostly absorbed by the textile so the mordant baths can be discarded safely. But this is hard to say in home dyeing and one can wonder if it's desirable to wear textiles on the body that contain iron sulphate. Although some studies have shown that they are safe, one cannot tell when dyeing DIY. Better option is to invest in different cooking pot (a tin pot, copper pot, aluminium pot, castiron pot). Dyeing in these metal pots will give off a little bit of the metals to boost the dyes, but are all absorbed in the textile. Other heavy metal mordants are not recommended because they have larger ecological impacts. 
+
+Iron mordant baths may be discarded in municipal waste systems (down the drain), don't dump directly in nature though. **Safety note:** always wear gloves when using this, wear goggles and a mouth mask when measureing iron sulphate powder, and keep away from pets. 
+
+You can make your own iron mordant (called iron liquor or *ferrous acetate*) by putting some scrap metals - like old nails - in a glass jar and cover it vinegar (or part vinegar, part water) This won't be as precise because the amount of iron sulphate increases overtime. Just start with adding a little bit to a pot of water and add more until you achieve the color you want. 
+
+Seal with a lid and let it get rusty for 2 weeks. Label it and keep away from pets and kids. 
+
+
+###Process Pictures
+
+
+
+
+###Variations
+
+See above
+
+
+##ORIGINS & REFERENCES
+
+**Cultural origins of this recipe**
+
+
+
+**Needs further research?**   Not sure
+
+###Key Sources
+
+
+
+###Copyright information 
+
+
+##ETHICS & SUSTAINABILITY
+
+
+
+**Sustainability tags**
+
+- Renewable ingredients: yes (except alum)
+- Vegan: yes
+- Made of by-products or waste:  no
+- Biocompostable final product:  yes
+- Re-use: yes, mordant baths can be reused. For each next bath, add 25-50% of the original mordant to replenish the bath. 
+
+Needs further research?:  Not sure
+
+
+##PROPERTIES
+
+- **Color fastness:** variable
+- **Light fastness:** variable
+- **Washability:** variable
+- **Color modifiers:** N/A
+- **Odor**: moderate
+- **Suitable fibres**: see above
+
+##ABOUT
+
+**Maker(s) of this sample**
+
+- Name: Loes Bogers
+- Affiliation: Fabricademy student at Waag Textile Lab Amsterdam
+- Location:  Amsterdam, the Netherlands
+- Date: 20-10-2020 - 22-10-2020
+
+**Environmental conditions**
+
+- Humidity:  40-50%
+- Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
+- Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
+- PH tap water:  7-8
+
+**Recipe validation**
+
+Has recipe been validated? No
+
+**Images of the final sample**
+
+![](../../images/finalpicslalala.jpg)*Title, Loes Bogers, 2020*
+
+
+##REFERENCES
+
+- **Natuurlijk Verven, Grand Teints** by Jantine Koobs, Textielmuseum Tilburg, 2018: [link](https://textielmuseum.nl/uploads/content/BTME001.pdf)
+
+- **Natuurlijk Verven** by Roos Soetekauw, *Issuu*, 2011: [link](https://issuu.com/roossoetekouw/docs/scriptie_-_natuurlijk_verven_klein)
+ 
+- **Mordanting with Cow's Milk** by Louise Upshall, *Gumnut Magic*, 2018: [link](https://www.gumnutmagic.com/mordanting-with-cows-milk/)
+
+- **Ecoprint op Katoen** by Nienke Smit, *Verfvirus*, 2015 [link](https://www.verfvirus.nl/2015/08/ecoprint-op-katoen-voorbeitsen.html)
+
+- **Natural Dyes, A Primer for Using Mordant Dyes on Cellulose Fabric** by Kim Eichler Messner (n.d.), *Kim E.M. Quilts*: [link](https://www.kimemquilts.com/s/Kim-E-M-Natural-Dye-Primer.pdf)
+
+- **How to Mordant with Symplocos** by *Botanical Colors*, n.d. [link](https://botanicalcolors.com/botanical-colors-how-tos/how-to-mordant-with-symplocos/)
+
+- **How to Mordant** by Botanical Colors, n.d. [link](https://botanicalcolors.com/how-to-mordant/)
+
+- **Art and Science of Natural Dyes Principles, Experiments and Results** by Joy Boutrup and Catherine Ellis, Schiffer Publishing, 2018. 
+ 
+- **Chitin - Another eco-friendly mordant for natural dyes**, by A. Poornima and A. Sharada Devi, *ResearchGate*, August 2007, [link](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/295368867_Chitin_-_Another_eco-friendly_mordant_for_natural_dyes)
+
+- **Dyeing of Wool Fabric Using Natural Dye and Natural Mordant Extracts** by Taame Berhanu Teklemedhin, *Trends in Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology*, Vol 4, Issue 4, 2018: [link](https://crimsonpublishers.com/tteft/fulltext/TTEFT.000593.php)
+
+- **Extraction and Optimization of Natural Dye from Hambo Hambo (Cassia singueana) Plant Used for Coloration of Tanned Leather Materials** by Taame Berhanu and Saminathan Ratnapandian, *Advances in Materials Science and Engineering*, 2017: [link](https://www.hindawi.com/journals/amse/2017/7516409/)
+
+- **Alum Mordanting Again**, by Jenny Dean, *Jenny Dean's Wild Color*, 2009: [link](https://www.jennydean.co.uk/alum-mordanting-again/)
+
+- **Iron Mordant Solution** by Sasha Duerr, 2013, *Mother Earth News*: [link](https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/home/iron-mordant-solution-ze0z1312zbla)
+
+- **A New Approach To Plant-Derived Mordants** by Mel Sweetnam, *Mamie's Schoolhouse*, 2020: [link](https://www.mamiesschoolhouse.com/blogarchive/2020/4/25/a-new-approach-to-plants-as-mordants)
+
+- **Global Hyperaccumulator Database** by *SMI CMLR, Center for Mined Land Rehabilitation*, [link](http://hyperaccumulators.smi.uq.edu.au/collection/)
+
+- **Understanding Mordants** by *Griffin Dyeworks & Fiber Arts*, 2012 [link](http://griffindyeworks.com/understanding-mordants/alumtanninalum.html)
\ No newline at end of file

docs/files/recipes/oniondye.md

@@ -73,7 +73,7 @@ Approx. 200 ml
 
 1. **Dyeing with onion dye**
 
-	- Optional (not necessary) mordant the fibres with alum for color fastness
+	- Optional (preferred) mordant the fibres with alum or other mordant for color fastness
 	- Put the wet fibres in the dyebath and simmer for an hour, then leave overnight
 	- Rinse and dry
 	- Optional: modify with PH modifiers 
@@ -157,7 +157,7 @@ Needs further research?:  Would be useful to have an overview of how often this
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/phmodifiers.md

@@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ Final form achieved after: N/A
 ###Ingredients
 
 * **Water - 1000 L**, the solvent, ideally has a PH of 7.
-* **Soda ash - 5g**, to make an alkaline solution (PH 8-PH 13)
+* **Soda ash - 5g** (sodium carbonate Na2CO3), to make an alkaline solution (PH 8-PH 13)
 * **Citric acid - g** OR: 150 ml of vinegar or lemon juice, to make an acidic solution (PH 1 -PH 6). Citric acid is sold in asian supermarkets and has very high acidity (more than vinegar and lemon juice)
 * **Red cabage dye - 50 ml** see [this recipe](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/cabbagedye/). Alcohol-based cabage ink is also fine. 
 * **A large round coffee filter**, ideally white ones. To make PH strips. If you can't find these, get 4 smaller filters and cut them open so you have only one layer. 
@@ -175,6 +175,7 @@ Needs further research?:  not sure
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/recipes/recycledPLA.md

@@ -223,7 +223,7 @@ Recycling PLA with PET plastics contaminates the waste stream.
 
 **Environmental conditions**
 
-- Humidity:  not sure
+- Humidity:  40-50%
 - Outside temp:  5-11 degrees Celcius
 - Room temp:  18 – 22 degrees Celcius
 - PH tap water:  7-8

docs/files/tools.md

@@ -128,8 +128,8 @@ And finally, the hard(er) but very exciting part! You will need these tools to e
 - A gas burner (like a campinggaz or bunsen burner)
 - A lighter
 - A permanent marker (thin)
-- An inoculation loop or other metal loop
-- 2x heat proof glass bottle with screw cap, 500 ml
+- An inoculation loop or any other metal wire formed as a loop
+- 2x [heat proof glass bottle](http://www.laboratoriumglas.eu/index.php?item=labfles-500-ml-met-gl-45&action=article&group_id=56&aid=301&lang=NL) with screw cap, 500 ml
 - Optional: Autoclave tape
 - Parafilm
 - An incubator or temperature controlled box (26-30 degrees C)