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......@@ -42,5 +42,5 @@ Fun fact: I know Shirley back from when I did the Fabacademy in 2015. It put a l
## Why fabricademy?
I'm able to join the Fabricademy with the generous support of my employer (the Amsterdam Univeristy of Applied Sciences). This program directly ties in with some current developments: there's recently been a great interest in practices that could be called critical making, which has been a research interest of mine. And we're looking to expand our research and education more specifically toward critical making in the context of the fashion industry. What would be a better place to get started than here? This truly is a bucket list moment. The focus on sustainability in combination with digital fabrication tooling, specific to the area of application of textiles and fashion is very powerful. Stoked!
I'm able to join the Fabricademy with the generous support of my employer (the Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences). This program directly ties in with some current developments: there's recently been a great interest in practices that could be called critical making, which has been a research interest of mine. And we're looking to expand our research and education more specifically toward critical making in the context of the fashion industry. What would be a better place to get started than here? This truly is a bucket list moment. The focus on sustainability in combination with digital fabrication tooling, specific to the area of application of textiles and fashion is very powerful. Stoked!
......@@ -4,6 +4,8 @@
##towards a context-aware global material commons: what's in *your* local archive?
by Loes Bogers, 2020
The goal of this project was to explore and develop methods for open archiving of socalled "new naturals". "New" or "other" naturals are not a thing (yet). But we can see this concept being used in material archives, as container category for materials that don't fit the traditional material families of wood, hide, metal, glass, plastics, stone, etcetera. New or other naturals is a left-over tag to indicate composite or otherwise hybrid materials made from renewable natural resources such as food waste, plant fibres etcetera.
With the following tools and templates to facilitate collaborative, global - but context-aware and localized - documenting and archiving of "new naturals":
......@@ -14,7 +16,7 @@ With the following tools and templates to facilitate collaborative, global - but
- that promotes an open-source attitude to the development of design materials, and credits the work done by others before you;
- that acknowledges all those practical questions: from buying the right kind of ingredients, all the way to tips and tricks for that challenging phase of controlled drying and curing materials to its "final" form;
- that is explained in layman's terms, demystifying ingredients and processes without oversimplifying them;
- imaging collaborative open archiving that can facilitate critique, contestations, suggestions, updates and reviews from peers;
- imaging collaborative open archiving that can facilitate critique, describe dilemmas, suggestions, updates and reviews from peers;
- offering a package that allows novices to learn, and educators to get started in a systematic way...
- ... and encourages experienced material designers to "stay with the trouble" and to continue asking those tough critical questions regarding sustainability, resource and waste streams, and to share those considerations with each recipe or ingredient.
......@@ -26,7 +28,7 @@ The outcomes of the selection are threefold: 1) a number of documentation tools
###1. Tools and templates for documenting "new naturals"
- [**a manifesto for archiving new naturals**](../outcomes/new_naturals_manifesto), comprised of a list of considerations I've come to find very helpful in thinking about the archiving practices of new naturals;
- [**the start of a manifesto for archiving new naturals**](../outcomes/new_naturals_manifesto), comprised of a list of considerations I've come to find very helpful in thinking about the archiving practices of new naturals;
- [**a video tutorial**](../outcomes/tools_and_templates/tactilityvideo/) for capturing the tactile experience of material samples
- [**a template to document recipes**](../outcomes/tools_and_templates/recipe_template/), to help you capture the entire process, while asking the hard contextual questions and document relevant considerations when developing new recipes and consideration applications and scale. Colleague fabricademer Beatriz Sandini tested and used the templates to document the recipes of her project [Ephemeral Fashion Lab](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/beatriz.sandini/projects/0-final-project/).
- [**a template to document ingredients**](../outcomes/tools_and_templates/ingredient_template/), helping you ask the hard questions and document relevant considerations - such as local abundace and distance from source - for adopting new ingredients and additives, also in terms of upscaling.
......@@ -36,9 +38,9 @@ The outcomes of the selection are threefold: 1) a number of documentation tools
###2. Core recipes for starting your own *new naturals* sample archive
Making material samples myself was the core part of the research process. It required making these (and actually many more) recipes, and trying to craft different physical forms to arrive at the important questions to ask biofabricated materials. Questions such as: when do you demould a bioplastic? How long does it take before it reached its final form and doesn't shrink anymore? Where does this recipe even come from? Is biodegradable necessarily more sustainable? Which factors makes a material sustainable? If it is sustainable, what other arguments might there be that make a material contested or controversial to use?
Making material samples myself was the core part of the research process. It required making these (and actually many more) recipes, and trying to craft different physical forms to arrive at the important questions to ask biofabricated materials. Questions such as: when do you demould a bioplastic? How long does it take before it reached its final form and doesn't shrink anymore? Where does this recipe even come from? Is biodegradable necessarily more sustainable? Which factors makes a material sustainable? If it is sustainable, what other arguments might there be that make a material contested or controversial to use? Are there dilemmas to consider?
As a result of that process of making, wondering and questioning, [**a selection of 24 foundational recipes**](../outcomes/24_core_recipes/) is documented here, showing the research process, but also allowing anyone to start a physical sample archive with "new natural" materials. All these materials are easily and harmlessly absorbed by nature within 90 days and/or can be turned into compost, *without* controlled conditions that require industrial composting facilities. And/or the material can be re-used with no or little additional resources. Biodegradability as a sustainability label is too often used to greenwash e.g. disposable packaging materials, so these criteria were chosen as point of departure.
As a result of that process of making, wondering and questioning, [**a selection of 24 foundational recipes**](../outcomes/24_core_recipes/) is documented here, showing the research process, but also allowing anyone to start a physical sample archive with "new natural" materials. All of these materials are easily and harmlessly absorbed by nature within 90 days and/or can be turned into compost, moreover, most are home-compostable *without* controlled conditions that require industrial composting facilities following EU guidelines. And/or the material can be re-used with no or little additional resources. Biodegradability as a sustainability label is too often used to greenwash e.g. disposable packaging materials, so these criteria were chosen as point of departure.
Three additional criteria were used to make the selection: it should be based on local abundance (ingredients sourced and/or produced around my location. Secondly, it should include a range of techniques, and lastly, these techniques should result in a variety of physical forms that makers and designers from different fields can recognize as semi-formed design materials.
......@@ -53,9 +55,8 @@ Since this project was developed in the Netherlands, the consideration was to ta
The collection contains different techniques in biofabrication to give a novice material designer a wide range of methods to explore the potential of the natural resources around them. I want to stress that these recipes are not my inventions, nor are they new. They are my personal variations at best, and this part of the work is heavily indebted to the knowledge collected and created in and around the Fabricademy network and other design and DIY biology communities, and also builds upon the (physical) Material Archive at Textile Lab Waag that was realised by Cecilia Raspanti, Maria Viftrup and others from 2016 onwards. Where it was known or identifyable, the related work and cultural origins of the techniques are referenced in each recipe. Techniques include:
- ***polymerization by cooking*** e.g. bioplastics
- ***curing*** bioplastics with natural compounds (e.g. calcification of algae-based plastic)
- ***extracting*** natural pigments in the form of inks and dyes
- ***hacking biopolymers*** using various techniques for renewable biopolymers, borrowed from cooking and chemistry e.g. algae-based bioplastics
- ***extracting*** natural renewable pigments in the form of inks and dyes
- ***growing*** microbial cultures for leather alternatives and bacterial dyes
- ***crystallization*** of molecules into organized forms (crystals)
- ***re-use*** of biodegradable bioplastics such as PLA (for which reuse is considered the better end of life cycle option)
......@@ -162,14 +163,18 @@ Lastly, there seems to be a danger with such recipe books because they often tak
[Materiom](https://materiom.org/) is a great initiative that takes the open-source, DIY, renewable-only approach, and makes efforts to collect and present recipes in a beautifully designed environment that is accessible online. Users can add their own recipes so the archive can continue to grow. Beautiful photography makes these materials very appealing and desirable as a design material.
In the same way that family recipes are contested, and cooks claim to have the "ultimate" recipe to a ragu bolognese, material recipes will be contested. We've seen this in the myriad ways people craft and form materials in the context of this Fabricademy course. Great value could be added if collaborative databases also facilitated debate, feedback and forking of recipes. With detailed peer reviews and simple rating tools we might be able start to see patterns as to which technique work best for whom. Where are they in the world? What are their environmental conditions and which type of ingredient are they using?
In the same way that family recipes are contested, and cooks claim to have the "ultimate" recipe to a ragu bolognese, material recipes will be contestedand pose dilemmas in terms of sustainability, techniques and origins. We've seen this in the myriad ways people craft and form materials in the context of this Fabricademy course. Great value could be added if collaborative databases also facilitated debate, feedback and forking of recipes. With detailed peer reviews and simple rating tools we might be able start to see patterns as to which technique work best for whom. Where are they in the world? What are their environmental conditions and which type of ingredient are they using?
A platform like Materiom might also benefit from acknowledging more explicitly where these crafts practices are coming from, and taking a more critical stance as to when something is *more sustainable*. As no material is perfect or without issues, we need more concrete handles for assessing the ethics of using certain materials in particular context or applications. Expanding the amount and type of entry fields required when submitting a new recipe could potentially help our community of "material nerds" deepen their understanding of what they are working with, so material activism extends beyond the ecological, into the social, cultural, political, and technical.
![](../images/stopmotionstand.jpg)*Shooting a tactility impression for archiving, Loes Bogers, 2020*
##View online at
https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/projects/archiving_new_naturals/
##References
- **Wat is composteerbaar?** (EN: What is compostable?), Online composteerwijzer, Vlaco, n.d. [link](https://www.vlaco.be/thuiskringlopen/thuiscomposteren/wat-is-composteerbaar)
- **DAMADEI: Design & Advanced Materials as a Driver of European Innovation**, by Damadei project committee, funded by the European Commission, 2013.
- **Institute of Making - Fourth Year Report 2016-2017**, by the Institute of Making, UCL London, 2017: [link](https://www.instituteofmaking.org.uk/about)
- **Material Driven Design (MDD): A Method for Design for Material Experiences** by Elvin Karana, Bahar Barati, Valentina Rognoli, Anouk Zeeuw van der Laan, in the International Journal of Design, Vol 9. No 2, 2015: [link](http://www.ijdesign.org/index.php/IJDesign/article/view/1965)
......
......@@ -3,27 +3,38 @@
|||||
|---|---|---|---|
| [![](../../images/finalpics-16_foam_GOOD.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biofoam/) Biofoam | [![](../../images/finalpics-67.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biofoilextraflexible) Gelatin foil |[![](../../images/finalpics-37.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/bioresin) Bioresin | [![](../../images/finalpics-45_silicone.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biosilicon) Biosilicone |
|[![](../../images/finalpics-47.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biorubber) Starch Rubber | [![](../../images/finalpics-56.jpg)]((../../../files/recipes/biolino)) Biolinoleum | [![](../../images/finalpics-3.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alginatenet) Alginate net | [![](../../images/finalpics-52.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alginatefoil) Alginate foil |
|[![](../../images/finalpics-47.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biorubber) Starch Rubber | [![](../../images/finalpics-56.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/biolino) Biolinoleum | [![](../../images/finalpics-3.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alginatenet) Alginate net | [![](../../images/finalpics-52.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alginatefoil) Alginate foil |
| [![](../../images/finalpics-72.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alginatestring) Alginate string | [![](../../images/finalpics-80.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/agarfoil) Agar foil | [![](../../images/finalpics-58.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/agarcomposite) Bio composite | [![](../../images/finalpics-61.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/recycledPLA)Reused PLA |
|[![](../../images/finalpics-4.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alumcrystalsilk)Alum crystals|[![](../../images/finalpics_reexported-3.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/kombuchascoby)Kombucha scoby|[![](../../images/finalpics-14.jpg) ](../../../files/recipes/kombuchapaper) Kombucha paper|[![](../../images/finalpics-127.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/flowerpaper)Flower paper|
|[![](../../images/finalpics-4.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/alumcrystalsilk)Alum crystals|[![](../../images/finalpics_reexported-3.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/kombuchascoby)Kombucha scoby|[![](../../images/finalpics-14.jpg) ](../../../files/recipes/kombuchapaper) Kombucha foil|[![](../../images/finalpics-127.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/flowerpaper)Flower paper|
|[![](../../images/finalpics-20.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/mangoleather) Mango leather |[![](../../images/finalpics_reexported-2.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/bananaclay) Banana Clay | [![](../../images/finalpics-76.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/fishskin) Fish leather | [![](../../images/finalpics_reexported-1.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/phmodifiers) PH modifiers |
|[![](../../images/finalpics-115.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/cabbagedye) Cabbage dye | [![](../../images/finalpics-143.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/oniondye) Onion dye |[![](../../images/finalpics-83.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/madderdye) Madder dye |[![](../../images/finalpics-124.jpg)](../../../files/recipes/bacterialdye) Bacterial dye |
These are the material samples I crafted over the course of this project. There were many more, but they did not make the cut when I'd set my criteria in stone. These recipes can also be used by anyone who wants to start of a local physical archive (maybe in your school, community center, research group or library). Crafting this basic collection will teach you the foundational techniques that many other recipes will build upon, and require you to collect the basic tools and ingredients you will need. By making this archive starter of material samples, you will learn some of the most important techniques to start your own R&D lab for design materials and you will have a variety of physical forms (solids, sheets, composites) to build upon. Further research is advised in case you wish to use any of these for commercial purposes (copyright info is listed in the recipes too, where known).
**Putting my own recipe templates into practice**
**Selection criteria**
The recipes ask all the questions that came up during my learning and research process that formed the foundation for the recipe templates. Questions that come up as you learn might be: how do you know when to demould a bioresin? How long does it take before it reached its final form and doesn't shrink anymore? Where does this recipe even come from? What makes a material sustainable? If it is sustainable, what other arguments might there be that make a material contested or controversial to use? Some questions don't have answers yet because they require further research. Consider them invitations to continue the exploration.
1. All these materials are easily and harmlessly **absorbed by nature within 90 days** and/or can be turned into compost, *without* controlled conditions that require industrial composting facilities. And/or the material can be re-used with no or little additional resources. Biodegradability as a sustainability label is too often used to greenwash e.g. disposable packaging materials, so these criteria were chosen as point of departure.
1. Recipes should be based on **local abundance**: the ingredients should be sourced and/or produced around my location (e.g. potato starch over tapioca, and madder over cochineal).
1. The collection of recipes chosen should **cover a range of foundational biofabrication techniques**
1. Executing the recipes as documented should **result in a variety of physical forms** that makers and designers from different fields can recognize as semi-formed design materials.
**Putting my recipe templates into practice**
The recipes ask all the questions that came up during my learning and research process that formed the foundation for the recipe templates. Questions that come up as you learn might be: how do you know when to demould a bioresin? How long does it take before it reached its final form and doesn't shrink anymore? Where does this recipe even come from? What makes a material sustainable? If it is sustainable, what other arguments might there be that make a material contested or controversial to use? Are there dilemmas to consider? Some questions don't have answers yet because they require further research. Consider them invitations to continue the exploration.
![](../../images/pics-insta1.jpg)*Biofabricating alginate string, Loes Bogers, 2020*
**Sustainability beyond biodegradability**
All the materials listed here are easily and harmlessly absorbed by nature within 90 days and/or can be turned into compost, *without* controlled conditions assuming industrial facilities, and/or the material can be re-used with no or little additional resources. Many - but not all - are vegan. This rather specific point of departure is important because biodregadability - especially in the realm of bioplastics - has become a very loosely used term that connotates "better" plastics, even though some bioplastics are chemically identical to petroleumbased options, even when they are crafted from "natural" ingredients like corn starch.
All the materials listed here are easily and harmlessly absorbed by nature within 90 days and/or can be turned into compost, *without* controlled conditions assuming industrial facilities, and/or the material can be re-used with no or little additional resources. Many - but not all - are vegan. This rather specific point of departure is important because biodegradability - especially in the realm of bioplastics - has become a very loosely used term that connotates "better" plastics, even though some bioplastics are chemically identical to petroleumbased options, even when they are crafted from "natural" ingredients like corn starch.
**Tools and ingredients**
I've compiled an overview of tools and materials needed to recreate these recipes:
I've compiled an overview of tools and materials needed to recreate these recipes in the Netherlands:
- [Ingredients and consumables](../../../files/ingredients_consumables/)
- [Ingredients & consumables ](../../../files/ingredients_consumables/)
- [Tools](../../../files/tools/)
**Future developments**
I will design a display for these samples together with my students once the COVID-19 pandemic has subsided enough for us to acess the lab again. All the samples will be labeled and displayed to allow students and colleagues at my university lab to explore these materials, recipes, and start contributing to the collection with their own experiments.
docs/projects/outcomes/agar4.jpg

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......@@ -8,22 +8,23 @@ The slideshow at the bottom of this page is a mock-up of an imagined online arch
##Summary
**Meaningful filtering and correlating with additional fields**
**Meaningful filtering and correlating using additional fields**
The contribution envisioned here is more about the way database entries might allow for other perspective. For example: how might we approach recipes, ingredients, and user locations in more *relational* ways? How can new fields that ask contributors to make more specific and nuanced ethical and ecological considerations, be turned into meaningfully searchable tags and filtering? This mock-up tries to probe such questions by imagining such an archiving system and different roles for different kinds of users.
**Proposed features**
Developing a working database was outside the scope of this project, and connecting to existing initiatives may be a better avenue to explore. The design of the system proposed here:
Developing a working database was outside the scope of this project, and connecting to existing initiatives may be a better avenue to explore. The design of the kind of system proposed here would include these features:
- **enables peer feedback**, ratings and constructive criticism
- incorporate **additional fields** in contribution forms, to promote, include and build more nuanced understanding of the historical, cultural and ecological context of materials and ingredients.
- include **audiovisual material** that can convey tactile and sensorial qualities of samples
- its logics of organisation and additional required fields can promote and **add a critical angle on the way we consider new naturals** as material alternatives. It allows users to filter on the properties as well as constituent ingredients *and* other tags pulled from the fields of the recipe and ingredient forms that may all become relevant filtering criteria: such as local abundance in your area. Most successful recipes, or most contested ones that could be further researched.
- the way the datastructures are linked **allow for analysis of popular recipes and correlations** with geographical regions, environmental conditions and local abundance of certain ingredients
- **features for peer feedback**, ratings and constructive criticism;
- **additional fields** in contribution forms that help us build more nuanced understandings of the historical, cultural and ecological context of materials and ingredients (e.g. eco-compatibility tags);
- include **audiovisual material** that can convey tactile and sensorial qualities of samples;
- add additional required fields (in recipe and ingredient forms) to **add a critical angle on the way we consider new naturals** as material alternatives.
- use these new fields as **additional filtering criteria** for e.g. local abundance in your area, most successful recipes, or most contested ones that could be further researched.
- once used by enough users, the way the datastructures are linked can **allow for further analysis of popular recipes and correlations** with e.g. geographical regions, environmental conditions and local abundance of certain ingredients: so in the future we might be able to learn from the database-as-dataset.
- **differentiation of "roles" and rituals** (reader vs. writer vs. admin vs. superadmin) to ensure quality control and feedback loops based on experience and expertise.
The suggested features may be included in existing archives (preferred) or be a starting point for a new initiative. Do get in touch if you are are working on material archiving and would like to explore this further! l[dot]bogers[at]hva[dot]nl
The suggested features may be included in existing archives (preferred) or be a starting point for a new initiative. Do get in touch if you are are working on material archiving and would like to explore this further: l[dot]bogers[at]hva[dot]nl
<iframe src="https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/e/2PACX-1vSOITFNlLhDRTC-h4-3g8u4V4mp2aVy5ONBdhKwN_7VJFTJSQW5lZD5VXOjcPAiExnz6gH1xD5-qoX1/embed?start=false&loop=false&delayms=3000" frameborder="0" width="600" height="629" allowfullscreen="true" mozallowfullscreen="true" webkitallowfullscreen="true"></iframe>
......
......@@ -4,18 +4,18 @@
*As a starting point for the project, I wrote this manifesto for the obsessively curious, the critical makers, the material nerds. Now let's keep going. By Loes Bogers, 2 April 2020*
- What is a material? **If we can perceive "stuff" as *useful*, it is a material**.
- if usefulness is in the eye of the beholder, perhaps what we need most is to do **change and open up our perception**
- if material = useful "stuff", we perhaps we should **evaluate materials in terms of what they *do*** (the superpower they have) and less by what the *are* (in terms of traditional taxonomies)
- **we need *ongoing* material activism**, especially in the face of smart and advanced materials increasing popularity. What could be methods to continue to demystify material craftsmanship as materials research evolves and becomes highly technical and less accessible due to increasing complexity as well as patenting intellectual property?
- **if plastics are not the only issue, then bioplastics are not the only solution**, dyeing and chemical treatments and finishes are equally if hazardous for the environment and workers. Biodegradable, or even biocompostable plastics will not solve all our problems
- **designers and makers need to get comfortable drawing from different fields of knowledge** and their methods like empirical approaches and systematic ways of experimenting and documenting, such as in fields of biology, chemistry and other "hard" sciences.
- but we need to be equally **aware of history, cultural heritage and the politics of design materials** in terms of their cultural history, as well as their socio-economic and ecological implications.
- **we need open-source material knowledge**: if resources are part of the commons, then so are material kowledge and craftsmanship, but we need to contiue to build it up and keep it alive.
- **make materials from scratch**: it will bring the entire ecology of material knowledge, production, distribution and legislation into view and open to questioning;
- **cultivate material craftsmanship** and understand the importance time and controlled environments effect on a material's growth/curing/drying. But equally, learn to work *with* any material (rather than expecting it to bend to your will).
- look for and learn to appreciate **locally abundant resources** and their potential, and start to see them appear in very unlikely places;
- **spend time with materials and resources**, attention and dedication to the cooking/curing/drying or growth process will allow you to start seeing alternative uses, options, applications.
- **learn from practices from all over the world** to strengthen your own locally centered practice (not yielding to the temptation of turning that wealth of knowledge into a candy shop to pick and choose from);
- **ask questions to stay with the trouble** of socalled sustainable materials, rather than setting out to find silver bullet solutions.
- **document and share** your process, research and outcomes using formats to describe their sensory and technical properties, and give an impression of their tactile, and auditory qualities.
\ No newline at end of file
1. What is a material? **If we can perceive "stuff" as *useful*, it is a material**;
1. if usefulness is in the eye of the beholder, perhaps what we need most is to do **diversify *and* nuance our understanding of usefulness**
1. if material = useful "stuff", we perhaps we should **evaluate materials in terms of what they *do*** (the superpowers they have) and less by what the *are* (in terms of traditional taxonomies);
1. **we need *ongoing* material activism**, especially in the face of smart and advanced materials increasing popularity. What could be methods to continue to demystify material craftsmanship as materials research evolves and becomes highly technical and less accessible due to increasing complexity as well as patenting intellectual property?
1. **if plastics are not the only issue, then bioplastics are not the only solution**, dyeing and chemical treatments and finishes are equally if hazardous for the environment and workers. Biodegradable, or even biocompostable plastics will not solve all our problems;
1. **designers and makers need to get comfortable drawing from different fields of knowledge** and their methods like empirical approaches and systematic ways of experimenting and documenting, such as in fields of biology, chemistry and other "hard" sciences.
1. but we need to be equally **aware of history, cultural heritage and the politics of design materials** in terms of their cultural history, as well as their socio-economic and ecological implications:
1. **we need open-source material knowledge**. If resources are part of the commons, then so are material knowledge and craftsmanship, but we need to continue to build it up and keep it alive.
1. **make materials from scratch**. It will bring the entire ecology of material knowledge, production, distribution and legislation into view and open to questioning;
1. **cultivate material craftsmanship** and understand the importance time and controlled environments effect on a material's growth/curing/drying. But equally, learn to work *with* any material (rather than expecting it to bend to your will).
1. look for and learn to appreciate **locally abundant resources** and their potential, and start to see them appear in very unlikely places;
1. **spend time with materials and resources**. Attention and dedication to the cooking/curing/drying or growth process will allow you to start seeing alternative uses, options, applications (and are necessary in understanding how be somewhat in control of their final form).
1. **learn from practices from all over the world** to strengthen your own locally centered practice. Or: let's not yield to the temptation of turning the wealth material resources and knowledge into yet another candy shop to pick and choose from at will;
1. **ask questions to stay with the trouble** of so-called sustainable materials, rather than setting out to find silver bullet solutions (see also point 5).
1. **document and share** your process, research and outcomes using formats to describe their sensory and technical properties, and give an impression of their tactile, and auditory qualities.
\ No newline at end of file
![](../../../images/glycerine.png)
*Vegetable-based glycerine from the brand OrphiFarma*
# GLYCERINE
(glycerin, glycerol)
**What is it and how is it produced or sourced?**
Glycerin is a sugar alcohol derived from animal products, plants or petroleum (as a by-product of biofuel). It can also be obtained from microalgae oils, and it can be recovered from used cooking oil. Not all of these are equally common however.
Vegetable glycerin is made by heating triglyceride-rich vegetable fats — such as palm, soy and coconut oils — under pressure, using heat, and/or together with a strong alkali, such as lye, which causes the glycerin to split away from the fatty acids and mix together with water, forming an odorless, sweet-tasting, syrup-like liquid. During WWI and WWII, glycerine was produced by fermentation as well, but there routes have not been under-utilized by industry because it could not compete with chemical synthesis from petrochemical compounds.
With necessary precaution you can make glycerine yourself.
**What are its possible functions in biofabricating?**
*e.g. plasticizer, filler, colorant, PH modifier, mordant, solvent, release agent, curing agent, softener, and so on*
Vegetable glycerin softens and hydrates human skin, increasing smoothness and suppleness. It is often used in skincare and also works as a laxative. It has antimicrobial and antiviral properties. It has many possible functions (as many as 1583 uses have been listed by the Glycerine Producers Association in 1945), but here are a few that are particularly useful in biofabication:
- plasticizer for more flexible bioplastics
- moisturizer or softener in fish leather tanning (e.g. fish leather)
- additive for soap bubble mixes
- solvent for pigment extraction (not documented here)
**Processing information**
Dissolves in: cold and hot water, and alcohol
PH value: 5
**Selecting the right type**
*How do you know if you are getting the right type (in nature/at the shop)? Or can you use any? For example, carbonate and bicarbonate soda are significantly different, but you may find it is referred to as "soda"*
Look for glycerin(e) or glycerol. In the U.S., glycerin(e) is a brand name for a purified variety of 95%, with glycerol being the principal component. In Europe, glycerol is more widely applied interchangeably. Smaller bottles are often more expensive. You might need to contact the supplier about the origins of the product if you want to know before. Choose a plant-based glycerine, it should state on the label what it is made of.
## Local abundance
**Where are you located?**
Rotterdam, the Netherlands
**Can this ingredient be found in nature there?**
No, it is a processed ingredient. But it can be produced almost anywhere. Try to find a vegetable-based glycerine that is produced regionally or locally.
**If not, please describe or list local suppliers and price**
In the Netherlands, Orphi is an affordable vegetable-based glycerin brand. This ingredient is best purchased online, in 1 litre bottles.
and costs about 6 Euros per 1000 ml (1L).
**If store-bought, find out where the ingredient was produced. How far is the production source from where you are?**
In Portugal: less than 2000 km from site of use
##Eco-compatibility
*Type and amount of energy used to produce this ingredient, e.g. does it require a lot of water, heat, chemicals?*
The production of glycerine requires heat and pressure, and sometimes strong alkali, like lye. It it also a product of fermentation processes but this is less efficient and cannot yet compete with synthetic methods.
**Toxicity**
*Is this ingredient toxic to humans/animals?*
No. But some people have an allergic skin reaction to vegetable glycerine.
**Distance from origin to site of use**
*In which region(s) of the world is this produced? Is it related to specific natural contexts or industries (e.g. near sea or rivers, in hot humid climates).*
Depends on the way it is produced, but there are many methods. Needs further research.
**Shelf life**
*Look up shelf life & expiry date, but also use of senses to check: can you see when it’s off, can you smell it?*
Shelf life: years if unopened, check smell
**Vegan**
*Is it made without the use of any animal products?*
Yes/No, depends on the method of production
**Is this a by-product is it found in a waste stream?**
*Is this ingredient a by-product or does it come from waste streams*
Yes, it *can* be a by-product of biofuel production and/or soap production, but this is not always the case.
**Renewable**
*Can this resource be naturally replenished on a human timescale?*
Yes
*What do you know about how long it takes for this ingredient regrow?Which plants/micro organisms grow this ingredient? How long does it take them to regenerate? Under which conditions?*
- Glycerine from soy: byproduct of soybean biodiesel industry
- Glycerine from palm oil: kernels of palm fruits are harvested all year round. But is also connected to deforestation issues.
- Glycerine may be a byproduct from soap manufacturing
Needs more research
## Cultural & historical information
*Historically, what were the uses of this ingredient? In which contexts were these uses discovered? When? By whom? How did it travel to other places?*
Glycerine is closely linked to the life processes themselves, and is a component of all living cells. It occurs naturally in wine, beer, bread and other fermentation products of sugar and grains. It is found in nature as triglycerides (a combination of glycerine and fatty acids that make up almost any vegetable and animal fat or oil).
Glycerine was discovered by accident in 1779 by K.W.Scheele. The Swedish chemist was heating olive oil and a lead monoxide, and he published his findings in 1783 in the Transactions of the Royal Academy of Sweden. His method which he called "the sweet principle of fat" was renamed into glycerine (from the Greek γλυκύς or glukus which means sweet) by M.E. Chevreul, who patented a new production method in 1823. Glycerine was of no economic significance until Alfred Nobel found the first worldwide technical application for it: for his invention of dynamite in 1866. It is said to have fueled industrial development of chemicals.
##Concerns
**Describe how this ingredient has been or might be contested. What are the concerns and dilemmas? Which arguments are put forward?**
*may be cultural, health-wise, ecological, social, cultural, political, economical arguments*
The purity of glycerine is essential for some applications (e.g. in chemistry, cosmetics, and food grade glycerine). With the increase in biofuel production, the production of glycerine grew as well. Purifying glycerine however is a particularly energy intentive part of the production process. Perhaps further research could be done on the required purity of glycerine for use in bioplastics.
##References
*Please provide information to the references used*
- **Environmental factsheet: Glycerol**, by the European Commission, n.d. [link](https://ec.europa.eu/jrc/sites/jrcsh/files/BISO-EnvSust-Bioproducts-Glycerol_140930.pdf)
- **Glycerol production by microbial fermentation: a review** by Zhengxiang Wang, Jian Zhuge, Huiying-Fang, Bernard A Prior, in Biotechnology Advances, Vol.19, Issue 3, June 2001, pp. 201-223: [link](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S073497500100060X)
- **Glycerine: An Overview** by the Soap and Detergent Association, Glycerine & Oleochemical Division New York, 1990: [link](http://bit.ly/Zsg3u9)
- **Nothing Takes The Place of Glycerine** by the Glycerine Producers Association, New York, 1949: [link](https://www.aciscience.org/docs/Nothing%20takes%20the%20place%20of%20glycerine.pdf)
- **What is vegetable glycerin? Uses, benefits and side effects** Alina Petre for Healthline, 19 December 2018: [link](https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/vegetable-glycerin#what-it-is)
- **How to make glycerine from vegetable oil**, Sciencing.com, n.d. [link](https://sciencing.com/sources-of-organic-matter-in-soil-12347549.html)
- **Glycerol**, Wikipedia, n.d. [link](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycerol)
- **What is sustainable palm oil?** Greenpalm.org, n.d.: [link](https://greenpalm.org/about-palm-oil/sustainable-palm-oil)
# Ingredient template
*Below is the template for documenting and researching an ingredient. An example of one that is filled in (for glycerine) can by found [here](../../../files/example_glycerine/)*
*Below is the template for documenting and researching an ingredient. An example of one that is filled in (for glycerine) can be found [here](../../../files/example_glycerine2/)*
# [Ingredient name]
[Ingredient name (alternative names 1, 2)]
E.g. glycerol, glycerine, propanetriol
**What is it and how is it produced or sourced?**
[Free text]
......@@ -20,10 +22,9 @@
**Processing information**
If applicable:
- Dissolves in: [free text, e.g. cold/warm/hot water, alcohol]
- PH value: [number 1-14]
- PH value: [number 1-14]
- Safety: [free text]
**Selecting the right type**
......@@ -51,9 +52,8 @@ and costs about [NUMBER] in [CURRENCY] per [NUMBER][UNIT].
Select one:
- Less than 100 km (locally abundant
- Less than 500 km
- Less than 2000 km
- Less than 500 km (locally abundant)
- More than 500 km
- More than 2000 km
##Eco-compatibility\*
......@@ -122,7 +122,7 @@ Yes/No/Not sure
##Concerns
**Describe how this ingredient has been or might be contested. What are the issues and concerns? Which arguments are put forward?**
**Describe how this ingredient has been or might be contested. What are the issues and concerns? Are there dilemmas to consider? Which arguments are put forward?**
*may be cultural, health-wise, ecological, social, cultural, political, economical arguments*
......
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