diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/biolino.md b/docs/files/recipes/biolino.md index 27be783d4b5bcd2d7f65d70fee31980d384c5b33..475e62793f055c6e9def6776236c397f0fc480fb 100644 --- a/docs/files/recipes/biolino.md +++ b/docs/files/recipes/biolino.md @@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ Final form achieved after: 10 days * **Water - 200 ml/gr** * To dissolve and mix the polymeer and plasticizer * **Dried and ground egg shells - 55 g** - * Used as a filler that reduces shrinkage, and simultaneously adds texture and strength. Recipe for drying and grinding egg shells is [here](../files/recipes/eggshellpowder.md). + * Used as a filler that reduces shrinkage, and simultaneously adds texture and strength. Recipe for drying and grinding egg shells is. ## Tools @@ -44,6 +44,8 @@ Final form achieved after: 10 days 1. **Scale** 1. **Moulds** (acrylic or glass surface to cast sheets on, silicon molds for solids. Molds with removable base are very useful). 1. **Spoon** +1. **An oven** to dry the eggshells +1. **A blender** to blend the egg shells ## Yield before processing/drying/curing @@ -54,7 +56,7 @@ Approx. 200 ml 1. **Preparation** - - Prepare the egg shell powder if you don't have it already (see recipe [here](../files/recipes/eggshellpowder.md) + - Prepare the egg shell powder if you don't have it already: clean the egg shells and dry them at 100 degrees celcius for an hour in the oven. Grind into a fine powder with a blender. - Weigh your ingredients - Prepare the mold and find a place where you can leave it for a while, ideally near an open window where there's air flow. @@ -108,6 +110,8 @@ It's worth trying to evaporate as much water as possible to reduce shrinkage eve ### Process +*washed egg shells ready for the oven, Loes Bogers, 2020* + *freshly ground egg shell powder, Loes Bogers, 2020* *just casted (silicon mold is the green one, the glass mold didn't release well), Loes Bogers, 2020* @@ -119,6 +123,7 @@ It's worth trying to evaporate as much water as possible to reduce shrinkage eve - Add a **natural colorant** such as a vegetable dye or water-based ink (e.g. hibiscus, beetroot, madder) - Add **more glycerine** for a more flexible material +- Use a different kind of filler than egg shells. Think of any dry fibre made of bio mass (e.g. dried plant leaves, dried used coffee grounds, shredded paper waste). ### Cultural origins of this recipe diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/biorubber.md b/docs/files/recipes/biorubber.md index 6d489f4e2e8b2d34611b2906c17a337e5014add9..de858142997bd30b22b37e9b75a551168c0430ac 100644 --- a/docs/files/recipes/biorubber.md +++ b/docs/files/recipes/biorubber.md @@ -134,7 +134,7 @@ Not sure. ## Variations on this recipe - Add a **natural colorant** such as a vegetable dye or water-based ink (e.g. hibiscus, beetroot, madder) -- Add **less glycerine** for a more rigid slab (or try adding more for more flexibility) +- Add **more glycerine** for a more flexible slab (up to 100 g) - Reduce amount of gelatine or leave it out altogether - **Stiffeners** such as fibres, yarn or natural debris may be added for more structure and reinforcement. @@ -147,6 +147,7 @@ Biopolymer production is older than petrol-based plastics. In 1500 BC, people in ### References this recipe draws from - **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). +- **Tumorick bioplastic** by Maria Viftrup for the Material Archive at Textile Lab Waag (Amsterdam), n.d. - **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) ### Known concerns and contestations\* @@ -240,10 +241,9 @@ Yes, in: ADDD HERE - **The Secrets of Bioplastic** by Clara Davis (Fabtex, IAAC, Fab Lab Barcelona), 2017, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/the_secrets_of_bioplastic_). - **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) -- Material archive sample Maria Viftrup -- "Make it and Break it: Bioplastics from Plant Starch with -incorporation of Engineering Practices", by Richard Harris, Carla Ahrenstorff -Gracye Theryo, Aaron Johnson, Jane Wissinger. Center for Sustainable Polymers at the University of Minnesota, 2017: https://csp.umn.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Make-it-and-Break-it.pdf +- **Tumorick bioplastic** by Maria Viftrup for the Material Archive at Textile Lab Waag (Amsterdam), n.d. +- **Make it and Break it: Bioplastics from Plant Starch with +incorporation of Engineering Practices**, by Richard Harris, Carla Ahrenstorff Gracye Theryo, Aaron Johnson, Jane Wissinger. Center for Sustainable Polymers at the University of Minnesota, 2017: [link](https://csp.umn.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Make-it-and-Break-it.pdf) ## Images of final product diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/cabbagedye.md b/docs/files/recipes/cabbagedye.md index 3822099328c94a5e1a03c3374307a558ed75336b..547c07f26aa3a60e14530072a60b3c50709e1e6e 100644 --- a/docs/files/recipes/cabbagedye.md +++ b/docs/files/recipes/cabbagedye.md @@ -1,215 +1,168 @@ -# DYE OF RED CABBAGE +# DYE OF RED CABBAGE LEFT-OVERS -### Tactility & sound impression - -<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gNOtGunJc2A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> +*Silk dyed with cabbage and modified with PH modifiers, Loes Bogers, 2020* ### Description -A (naturally) amber-coloured hard bioresin, gelatin-based. +Volatile PH sensitive dye. Not very light-fast or washable, but capable of producing bright purple, pink, green and turqouise hues. ### Physical form -Solids +Pastes, gels & liquids -Color without additives: transparent, yellow/orange/amber colored. +Color without additives: Purple ### Fabrication time -Preparation time: 1 Hour +Preparation time: 2 Hours -Processing time: 5-10 days +Processing time: for dying is variable (overnight for intense color on silk) -Need attention: None, just leave it to dry as long as is feasible with lots of airflow. +Need attention: the entire processing time (temperature and stirring) -Final form achieved after: 10 days +Final form achieved after: 2 hours ## Ingredients -* **Gelatine powder - 96 gr** - * Functions as the polymeer (so it becomes a solid) -* **Glycerine - 16 gr** - * Functions as plasticizer that bonds with the gelatine (makes it flexible). -* **Water - 480 ml/gr** - * To dissolve and mix the polymeer and plasticizer +* **Half a red cabbage** (also: brassica oleracea), this is the dye stuff. Try to get these as food waste +* **water - 1000 ml/g** solvent +* **salt - 5 g** for preservation (stabilizer) +* * **a coffee filter** to filter the fine particles from the dye +* **PH modifiers** (see [this recipe](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/phmodifiers/)) +* optional: a piece of silk, or aquarel paper and a brush for testing. ## Tools -1. **Cooker or stove** (optional: temperature controlled) +1. **Cooker**, ideally with temperature control 1. **Pot** -1. **Scale** -1. **Moulds** (ideally with removeable base to increase airflow). I have modular silicon walls with metal wire inside them that allow me to cast and then turn the moulds on their side for more airflow and drying from top and bottom. I use a silicon or acrylic sheet with these mould walls. -1. **Spoon** - +1. **A knife** to finely chop the cabbage , or a mandoline +1. **A spoon** +1. **A cheese cloth or coffee filter** +1. **A strainer** +1. **A glass jar** to store the dye -## Yield before processing/drying/curing +## Yield -Approx. 300 ml (make sure to evaporate a lot of water during cooking time) +Approx. 250 ml ## Method 1. **Preparation** - - Weigh your ingredients - - Prepare the mold and find a place where you can leave it for a while, ideally near an open window where there's air flow. - -1. **Mixing and dissolving the ingredients** - - bring the water to the boil - - optional: add natural dye if you wish to use color - - add the glycerine - - add the gelatine - - keep the temperature below 80 degrees celcius while stirring *very very slowly and gently* to avoid making bubbles. I prefer a simple spoon to do this, not a whisk. - -1. **Cooking the ingredients** - - - Simmer and slowly stir the mixture between 60-80 degrees celcius for at least 20 minutes or up to an hour. Turn it lower when bubbles appear: you don't want the liquid to move, don't boil it. This sample has some bubbles due to vigorous mixing. - - Longer cooking time allows more water to evaporate. You will get a thicker liquid. To cast larger volumes and solids with this recipe, evaporate a lot of water, until it's very thick. - -1. **Casting** - - - Let the liquid cool for a couple minutes until it gels a little but is still liquid and pourable. - - Cast into the mould slowly to avoid bubbles - - Pour from the middle and hold still, let the liquid distribute itself. - - Put the mould away to dry in a cool place with lots of air flow (like near an open window). A warmer place might speed up the drying process but also allow bacteria to grow faster and can result in fungal growth. - - If the mould has a removable base, remove it after 4-8 hours and put the mould on its side to allow air flow from both sides. - - When using a flexible mould: let it dry without releasing to keep the form as much as possible. The resin will likely shrink and release itself from the mold. If it feels cold to the touch it is still drying. If you are using a rigid mold: release after 4-8 hours and dry flat. - - -### Drying/curing/growth process - -- Mold depth: 7 cm (filled up until 2.5cm high) -- Shrinkage thickness: 20-30 % -- Shrinkage width/length: 20-30 % - -**Shrinkage and deformation control** + - Chop the cabbage until it is very small, or grate it with a mandoline -Letting it dry up to ten days to get to the final form. It will be flexible at first but will slowly harden until its totally rigid. +1. **Extract the pigment** -**Curing agents and release agents** + - Put the cabbage in a large pot and cover with water + - Bring it to the boil and let it simmer for 2 hours (make sure not all the water evaporates) + - Strain the liquid and put it back in the pot + - Reduce the liquid to 25% of the original volume for a very concentrated dye or ink. -None. +1. **Dyeing with cabbage dye** -**Minimum wait time before releasing from mold** + - Mordant the fibres with alum + - Simmer in the dyebath for an hour, leave overnight + - Do not rinse + - Dry + - Optional: modify with PH modifiers -Using a silicon mold: 7 days (or until it comes undone) +1. **Testing and storing the ink/dye** -**Post-processing** - -Store in a dry and ventilated room. - -**Further research needed on drying/curing/growth?** - -Casting larger volumes without growing fungus/mold, and limited warping can be challenging. Fillers like debris or egg shells can help. More research can be done on ideal conditions for drying larger volumes. - -The resin does not cure evenly across the surface, some might be negotiated by shaving off some slides while it is still relatively soft and flexible. + - Add a teaspoon of salt while the liquid is still hot, stir to dissolve. + - To dye silk: let the dye cool until it's no more than 70 degrees and put in a piece or wet (mordanted) silk or other fibres. Leave overnight for an intense color. + - Test the ink on paper using a brush and aquarel paper. Use the PH modifiers wet-on-wet, or let the ink dry before brushing or spraying on some of the modifiers. Play and experiment! + - To store: add a clove to the ink, label it, and store in the fridge or freeze. If it starts to grow mold or smells weird/different than cabbage smell, through it away. ### Process -*Evaporating water until the liquid is thick like honey, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Preparing the cabbage with a mandoline, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Cloves and coffee filters ready to go, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Preparing molds for small half domes (egg cups), and a big slab (silicon mould and separate base), Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Red cabbage dye on a used coffee filter, sprayed with some acidic PH modifier (PH 2), Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Casting the resin (I had to put a weight on top to press the mold into the base and prevent leakage, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Red cabbage dye (left) and madder dye (right) ready to be used or stored, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Putting the mold on its side next to open window to allow further drying from top and bottom, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Silk dyed with red cabbage dye, drying. Modified with PH modifiers (pink = PH2, green = PH 13, blue = PH 9), Loes Bogers, 2020* ## Variations on this recipe -- Add a **natural colorant** such as a vegetable dye or water-based ink (e.g. hibiscus, beetroot, madder) -- Add **less glycerine** for a more rigid foil -- **Stiffeners** such as fibres, yarn or natural debris may be added for more structure and reinforcement. -- **Fillers** such as almond or sunflower oil, can be added to prevent additional shrinkage but might affect stickyness. +- You add the PH modifiers to the dye, or use the modifier after drying (on dried, dyed textiles). +- Add a binder such as arabic gum to create a nicer flow if you wish to use this ink for painting and arts, not dyeing textiles. +- Instead of making a water-based ink, you can also use red cabbage to make an alcohol-based marker ink. Grate the cabbage and chop as finely as possible, cover with denatured alcohol 96% and put in a jar with a tightly fitting lid. Shake every hour for 24 hours. Strain the liquid, add a clove, label and store. The ink can be modified with PH modifiers as well but this ink fades quicker than the dye. +- You can even use red cabbage dye to test the PH of a liquid. Dip some strips of coffee filter in the red cabbage dye. Let it dry. Then use a cotton swab to dab a bit of liquid (tap water, juice, wine, other) on the paper. If the paper becomes red/pink the PH is 2-4, purple is 5-7, blue is 8-9 and green/yellow is PH 10-12 approximately. See also [link](https://www.thoughtco.com/make-red-cabbage-ph-paper-605993) +- Make dyes for other kinds of food waste, like used coffee grounds (light browns), old coffee (deep browns), PH sensitive beetroot dye (vintage pinks and salmon tones) etc. Or research and consider dyes from dried goods like turmeric powder (bright yellow), PH sensitive hibiscus tea (purple, blues, greens and gray). ### Cultural origins of this recipe -Bioplastic production is older than petrol based plastics. In 1500 BC, people in Egypt were already using glues based on gelatin, casein and albumin for furniture constructions. Gelatin casting as a technique has also been used in production of jelly-based foods such as aspic, jelly desserts and candy. +The anthocyanin in red cabbage is what makes it PH sensitive, and is why it changes color as you modify it with acidic or alkaline solutions. **Needs further research?** Not sure -### References this recipe draws from +### This recipe draws together information from these other recipes -- **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). -- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) +No recipe in particular. Boiling in water is a common way of extracting pigments from a dye stuff. -### Known concerns and contestations\* +### Known concerns and contestations -Needs further research +Cabbage can be found in abundance in many countries (including the Netherlands). It is not a hugely popular vegetable but still very common. Try to get red cabbage as food waste instead of buying it fresh. Dye materials should not compete with food. -Gelatin is an animal-based ingredient. Some might find it problematic to use resources that requires killing an animal because of religious or animal welfare beliefs. Arguments are also made that as long as there's a meat industry, it is better to use product from the entire animal, including skin and bones. Some might consider gelatin to be a product that comes from a waste stream, but this is considered controversial by others. +The color purple this dye or ink creates is quite contested. Historically, purple (and especially the socalled Tyrian purple, made of the secretions of sea snails) was considered to be the color of power, reserved for kings and queens and the like. It is also one of the colors that has historically ben rather expensive to produce as it required significant amounts of (often expensive) resources to generate intense and colorfast dyes using natural resources. Due to it's changing nature, red cabbage dye would not be considered an option worth considering for current textile dyeing practice. But perhaps its humble background and volatility make it the perfect everywoman's purple. Could it be instrumental in conveying the temporary luxury of purple textiles? Perhaps it is sufficient to be queen for a day? -Acrylic (for the mold) is a petrol based plastic but results in very shiny foils and sheets and can be reused endlessly for casting high quality bioplastic sheets. - -Using renewable ingredients is not by definition petrol-free. Imagine they have to travel long distances by plane, boat or truck: it takes fuel. Also, the effects of GMO technologies and pesticides can be harmful to the environment and it's worth using knowing the source and production standards involved. If you can afford it, buying organic ingredients is a good starting point. ### Sustainability tags - Renewable ingredients: yes -- Vegan: no -- Made of by-products or waste: no +- Vegan: yes +- Made of by-products or waste: (ideally) yes - Biocompostable final product: yes -- Reuse: yes, by melting and recasting +- Re-use: no -Needs further research?: not sure +Needs further research?: Yes -Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water. Recycling them with PET plastics contaminates the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow. +How often can this dye be reused? Overview of colors different PH modifiers during and after dyeing would be useful. Are there sustainable ways of making the dye more colorfast? ## Material properties ### Comparative qualities -This resin is dense and rather heavy, but not rock hard like synthetic epoxy or cold like glass. It keeps certain level of bounciness to it. -### Technical and sensory properties +This dye gives bright purples. Alkaline modifiers create blues and greens, acidic modifiers towards pinks and reds. Less colorfast than other dyes like, madder dye. -- **Strength**: strong -- **Hardness**: rigid -- **Transparency**: transparent -- **Glossiness**: matt -- **Weight**: heavy -- **Structure**: closed -- **Texture**: medium -- **Temperature**: medium -- **Shape memory**: high -- **Odor**: moderate in final product, high during production -- **Stickiness**: low -- **Weather resistance:** low -- **Acoustic properties:** needs further research -- **Anti-bacterial:** needs further research -- **Non-allergenic:** needs further research -- **Electrical properties:** needs further research -- **Heat resistance:** low -- **Water resistance:** water resistant -- **Chemical resistance:** needs further research -- **Scratch resistance:** moderate -- **Surface friction:** medium -- **Color modifiers:** none +### Technical and sensory properties +- **Color fastness:** low +- **Light fastness:** low +- **Washability:** low +- **Color modifiers:** alkaline/acidic +- **Odor**: moderate (disappears after drying) ## About this entry -### Maker(s) of this sample +### Maker of this sample - Name: Loes Bogers - Affiliation: Fabricademy student at Waag Textile Lab Amsterdam -- Location: Rotterdam, the Netherlands -- Date: 06-03-2020 – 16-03-2020 +- Location: Amsterdam, the Netherlands +- Date: 05-03-2020 - 06-03-2020 ### Environmental conditions +- Humidity: not sure - Outside temp: 5-11 degrees Celcius - Room temp: 18 – 22 degrees Celcius - PH tap water: 7-8 ### Recipe validation -Has recipe been validated? Yes +Has recipe been validated? -By Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 +Yes, by Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 ### Estimated cost (consumables) in local currency -2,56 Euros for a yield of approx 300 ml +0,01 Euros, for a yield of approx. 250 ml if made from food waste ## Copyright information @@ -217,22 +170,45 @@ By Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 Yes -### This recipe was previously published by someone else +##References + +- **Make Red Cabbage PH Paper** by Anne Marie Helmenstine for ThoughtCo, 2 February 2020: [link](https://www.thoughtco.com/make-red-cabbage-ph-paper-605993) +- **Biochromes** by Cecilia Raspanti for Fabricademy, 15 October 2019: [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week04/) +- **Purple** in: The Secret Lives of Color by Kassia St. Clair, 2016: pp. 159-161. + +### Images of final product + +*Red cabbage dye with a splash of soda solution and a splash of vinegar, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Red cabbage dye on silk, not modified, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Red cabbage dye on silk, modified with vinegar (PH 2) solution, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Red cabbage dye on silk, modified with soda (PH 9) solution, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Red cabbage dye on silk, modified with soda (PH 9) and vinegar (PH 2) splashes, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Red cabbage dye on silk, modified with soda solution (PH 13), Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Red cabbage dye on silk, modified with soda (PH13) and then vinegar (PH 2) solution, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Red cabbage dye on silk, modified with soda (PH 9) and vinegar (PH 2) solution, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Red cabbage dye on paper, not modified, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Red cabbage dye on paper, modified with soda (PH 9) solution, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Red cabbage dye on paper, modified with vinegar (PH 2) solution, Loes Bogers, 2020* + + + + -Yes, in: **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). -##References -- **The Secrets of Bioplastic** by Clara Davis (Fabtex, IAAC, Fab Lab Barcelona), 2017, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/the_secrets_of_bioplastic_). -- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) -- **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). -## Images of final product -*Bioresin slab, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Bioresin slab, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Bioresin slab and half dome, Loes Bogers, 2020* diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/coffeedye.md b/docs/files/recipes/coffeedye.md deleted file mode 100644 index b9aff07cb53953819cad2d7d7a49730c23bb477e..0000000000000000000000000000000000000000 --- a/docs/files/recipes/coffeedye.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,238 +0,0 @@ -# DYE OF COFFEE WASTE - -### Tactility & sound impression - -<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gNOtGunJc2A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> - -### Description - -A (naturally) amber-coloured hard bioresin, gelatin-based. - -### Physical form - -Solids - -Color without additives: transparent, yellow/orange/amber colored. - -### Fabrication time - -Preparation time: 1 Hour - -Processing time: 5-10 days - -Need attention: None, just leave it to dry as long as is feasible with lots of airflow. - -Final form achieved after: 10 days - -## Ingredients - -* **Gelatine powder - 96 gr** - * Functions as the polymeer (so it becomes a solid) -* **Glycerine - 16 gr** - * Functions as plasticizer that bonds with the gelatine (makes it flexible). -* **Water - 480 ml/gr** - * To dissolve and mix the polymeer and plasticizer - -## Tools - -1. **Cooker or stove** (optional: temperature controlled) -1. **Pot** -1. **Scale** -1. **Moulds** (ideally with removeable base to increase airflow). I have modular silicon walls with metal wire inside them that allow me to cast and then turn the moulds on their side for more airflow and drying from top and bottom. I use a silicon or acrylic sheet with these mould walls. -1. **Spoon** - - -## Yield before processing/drying/curing - -Approx. 300 ml (make sure to evaporate a lot of water during cooking time) - -## Method - -1. **Preparation** - - - Weigh your ingredients - - Prepare the mold and find a place where you can leave it for a while, ideally near an open window where there's air flow. - -1. **Mixing and dissolving the ingredients** - - bring the water to the boil - - optional: add natural dye if you wish to use color - - add the glycerine - - add the gelatine - - keep the temperature below 80 degrees celcius while stirring *very very slowly and gently* to avoid making bubbles. I prefer a simple spoon to do this, not a whisk. - -1. **Cooking the ingredients** - - - Simmer and slowly stir the mixture between 60-80 degrees celcius for at least 20 minutes or up to an hour. Turn it lower when bubbles appear: you don't want the liquid to move, don't boil it. This sample has some bubbles due to vigorous mixing. - - Longer cooking time allows more water to evaporate. You will get a thicker liquid. To cast larger volumes and solids with this recipe, evaporate a lot of water, until it's very thick. - -1. **Casting** - - - Let the liquid cool for a couple minutes until it gels a little but is still liquid and pourable. - - Cast into the mould slowly to avoid bubbles - - Pour from the middle and hold still, let the liquid distribute itself. - - Put the mould away to dry in a cool place with lots of air flow (like near an open window). A warmer place might speed up the drying process but also allow bacteria to grow faster and can result in fungal growth. - - If the mould has a removable base, remove it after 4-8 hours and put the mould on its side to allow air flow from both sides. - - When using a flexible mould: let it dry without releasing to keep the form as much as possible. The resin will likely shrink and release itself from the mold. If it feels cold to the touch it is still drying. If you are using a rigid mold: release after 4-8 hours and dry flat. - - -### Drying/curing/growth process - -- Mold depth: 7 cm (filled up until 2.5cm high) -- Shrinkage thickness: 20-30 % -- Shrinkage width/length: 20-30 % - -**Shrinkage and deformation control** - -Letting it dry up to ten days to get to the final form. It will be flexible at first but will slowly harden until its totally rigid. - -**Curing agents and release agents** - -None. - -**Minimum wait time before releasing from mold** - -Using a silicon mold: 7 days (or until it comes undone) - -**Post-processing** - -Store in a dry and ventilated room. - -**Further research needed on drying/curing/growth?** - -Casting larger volumes without growing fungus/mold, and limited warping can be challenging. Fillers like debris or egg shells can help. More research can be done on ideal conditions for drying larger volumes. - -The resin does not cure evenly across the surface, some might be negotiated by shaving off some slides while it is still relatively soft and flexible. - - -### Process - -*Evaporating water until the liquid is thick like honey, Loes Bogers, 2020* - -*Preparing molds for small half domes (egg cups), and a big slab (silicon mould and separate base), Loes Bogers, 2020* - -*Casting the resin (I had to put a weight on top to press the mold into the base and prevent leakage, Loes Bogers, 2020* - -*Putting the mold on its side next to open window to allow further drying from top and bottom, Loes Bogers, 2020* - - -## Variations on this recipe - -- Add a **natural colorant** such as a vegetable dye or water-based ink (e.g. hibiscus, beetroot, madder) -- Add **less glycerine** for a more rigid foil -- **Stiffeners** such as fibres, yarn or natural debris may be added for more structure and reinforcement. -- **Fillers** such as almond or sunflower oil, can be added to prevent additional shrinkage but might affect stickyness. - -### Cultural origins of this recipe - -Bioplastic production is older than petrol based plastics. In 1500 BC, people in Egypt were already using glues based on gelatin, casein and albumin for furniture constructions. Gelatin casting as a technique has also been used in production of jelly-based foods such as aspic, jelly desserts and candy. - -**Needs further research?** Not sure - -### References this recipe draws from - -- **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). -- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) - -### Known concerns and contestations\* - -Needs further research - -Gelatin is an animal-based ingredient. Some might find it problematic to use resources that requires killing an animal because of religious or animal welfare beliefs. Arguments are also made that as long as there's a meat industry, it is better to use product from the entire animal, including skin and bones. Some might consider gelatin to be a product that comes from a waste stream, but this is considered controversial by others. - -Acrylic (for the mold) is a petrol based plastic but results in very shiny foils and sheets and can be reused endlessly for casting high quality bioplastic sheets. - -Using renewable ingredients is not by definition petrol-free. Imagine they have to travel long distances by plane, boat or truck: it takes fuel. Also, the effects of GMO technologies and pesticides can be harmful to the environment and it's worth using knowing the source and production standards involved. If you can afford it, buying organic ingredients is a good starting point. - -### Sustainability tags - -- Renewable ingredients: yes -- Vegan: no -- Made of by-products or waste: no -- Biocompostable final product: yes -- Reuse: yes, by melting and recasting - -Needs further research?: not sure - -Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water. Recycling them with PET plastics contaminates the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow. - -## Material properties - -### Comparative qualities -This resin is dense and rather heavy, but not rock hard like synthetic epoxy or cold like glass. It keeps certain level of bounciness to it. - -### Technical and sensory properties - -- **Strength**: strong -- **Hardness**: rigid -- **Transparency**: transparent -- **Glossiness**: matt -- **Weight**: heavy -- **Structure**: closed -- **Texture**: medium -- **Temperature**: medium -- **Shape memory**: high -- **Odor**: moderate in final product, high during production -- **Stickiness**: low -- **Weather resistance:** low -- **Acoustic properties:** needs further research -- **Anti-bacterial:** needs further research -- **Non-allergenic:** needs further research -- **Electrical properties:** needs further research -- **Heat resistance:** low -- **Water resistance:** water resistant -- **Chemical resistance:** needs further research -- **Scratch resistance:** moderate -- **Surface friction:** medium -- **Color modifiers:** none - - -## About this entry - -### Maker(s) of this sample - -- Name: Loes Bogers -- Affiliation: Fabricademy student at Waag Textile Lab Amsterdam -- Location: Rotterdam, the Netherlands -- Date: 06-03-2020 – 16-03-2020 - -### Environmental conditions - -- Outside temp: 5-11 degrees Celcius -- Room temp: 18 – 22 degrees Celcius -- PH tap water: 7-8 - -### Recipe validation - -Has recipe been validated? Yes - -By Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 - -### Estimated cost (consumables) in local currency - -2,56 Euros for a yield of approx 300 ml - -## Copyright information - -### This recipe is in the public domain (CC0) - -Yes - -### This recipe was previously published by someone else - -Yes, in: **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). - -##References - -- **The Secrets of Bioplastic** by Clara Davis (Fabtex, IAAC, Fab Lab Barcelona), 2017, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/the_secrets_of_bioplastic_). -- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) -- **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). - -## Images of final product - -*Bioresin slab, Loes Bogers, 2020* - -*Bioresin slab, Loes Bogers, 2020* - -*Bioresin slab and half dome, Loes Bogers, 2020* - - diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/coffeewasteleather.md b/docs/files/recipes/coffeewasteleather.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..6f50dcb2e5e6a40e43eebc8cdf569fa4139549aa --- /dev/null +++ b/docs/files/recipes/coffeewasteleather.md @@ -0,0 +1,233 @@ +# ALGINATE FOIL + +### Tactility & sound impression + +<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vKj-X4PUmIw" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> + +### Description + +An alginate based, heat-resistant and waterproof semi-transparent, matte foil + +### Physical form + +Surfaces + +Color without additives: semi-transparent, white when layered + +### Fabrication time + +Preparation time: 1 hour (plus resting overnight) + +Processing time: 5-7 days + +Need attention: daily, to check if sheet needs to be taped down to stay in place on the mold + +Final form achieved after: 7 days + +## Ingredients + +* **Sodium alginate powder - 12 gr** + * the polymeer (so it becomes a solid) +* **Glycerine - 20 gr** + * the plasticizer that bonds with the alginate (makes it flexible). +* **Water - 400 ml/gr** + * to dissolve and mix the polymeer and plasticizer + * optional: use a (diluted) natural dye instead for a colored plastic +* **Sunflower oil - 10 gr** + * filler to reduce shrinkage +* **Calcium chloride solution 10% (10 gr to 100 gr water)** + * is the curing agent: calcium chloride attracts moisture very strongly: spraying it onto the alginate plastic starts the curing process. + +## Tools + +1. **Scale** +1. **Spoon** +1. **Blender** +2. **Glass jar with lid** +3. **Spray bottle** (150 ml contents, for the calcium chloride solution) +2. **Acrylic sheet** smooth surface to cast the foil onto. A smooth surface will create a smooth matte foil. +3. **A strip of acrylic or squeeguee** to push the alginate mixture into place and form an even and flat rectangle +3. **Painting tape** to tape down if edges of the sheet start to come off of the surface +4. **Kitchen paper** to soak up the water that will be released from the alginate mixture + +## Yield before processing/drying/curing + +Approx. 200 ml of alginate plastic that can be stored for two weeks and used for any alginate application + +Approx. 100 ml of calcium chloride 10% solution that can be used for any alginate recipe + +## Method + +1. **Preparation** + - Weigh your ingredients for the alginate plastic (alginate, glycerine, water, sunflower oil). Optional: use a diluted natural dye instead of water in the same amount for a colored plastic. + - Put the oil, alginate and glycerine in a blender and add a dash of the water. Blend into a thick and homogenous paste. Then add the rest of the water and blend again (this is to avoid lumps). + - Leave the mixture overnight to allow the bubbles to come to the surface and pop. + - Make the calcium chloride solution by dissolving 10 gr in 100 gr hot water. Put it in a spray bottle. + +1. **Casting** + - Prepare some space on an acrylic or glass surface + - Pour the alginate onto the acrylic sheet and use the squeeguee or acrylic strip to mold the liquid into a rectangular shape of about 3mm high + - Spray the sheet with the calcium chloride solution (use quite a lot) + - Let it sit for a few minutes, then spray again if you see the liquid is starting to ooze out from the sides. The film that is created in the curing process can break from the weight of the liquid bubble. By respraying you can close these until the sheet is cured enough and stable to dry further. + - The alginate can release quite a lot of water at this stage, so it's wise to place some kitchen paper around it to absorb excess water. + +### Drying/curing/growth process + +- Mold depth: N/A +- Shrinkage thickness: 20-30 % +- Shrinkage width/length: 10-20 % + +**Shrinkage and deformation control** + +Keep an eye on the sheet every few hours, especially on the first day. The thinner edges of the sheet might curl up when drying and pull of parts of the sheet. When it comes off it will start to warp. Taping it down onto the acrylic helps to keep it in place an dry in shape. +Let it dry up to seven days to get to the final form. When it no longer feels cool to the touch it is dry enough to take off. If you want to trim the edges do it while the foil is still a bit softer for a clean cut. + +**Curing agents and release agents** + +Calcium chloride 10% as curing agent + +**Minimum wait time before releasing from mold** + +3 days but ideally a week + +**Post-processing** + +trim the edges with scissors or a scalper and ruler if you wish + +**Further research needed on drying/curing/growth?** + +Not sure + +### Process + +*Preparing the alginate the day before, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*The mixture is ready, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Preparing a 10% calcium chloride solution with hot water, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*The calcium chloride solution in a spray bottle, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*alginate casted onto acrylic sheet, first few minutes of curing, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +## Variations on this recipe + +- Replace the water with a (diluted) **natural colorant** such as a vegetable dye or water-based ink (e.g. hibiscus, beetroot, madder) +- Add **less glycerine** for a less flexible foil +- Take out the sunflower oil and use 30% less alginate to cast thinner foils +- You can also use this recipe to make composites such as the one described in the [alginate net recipe](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/alginatenet/) + +### Cultural origins of this recipe + +Alginate plastic is used a lot in molecular gastronomy, for (reverse) spherification that was patented by William J. S. Peschardt in the 1940s and popularized in the molecular cuisine popularized by Adrian Ferra from restaurant El Bulli. Alginate plastics are also used a lot in molding and casting of dental technology industry. + +**Needs further research?** Not sure + +### References this recipe draws from + +The alginate recipe is a modified version of: **Flexible Bio-plastic Alginate Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). + +### Known concerns and contestations\* + +Sodium alginate...... add text here + +### Sustainability tags + +- Renewable ingredients: yes +- Vegan: yes +- Made of by-products or waste: no +- Biocompostable final product: yes +- Reuse: no + +Needs further research?: not sure + +Recycling this bioplastic with PET plastics contaminates the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow. + +## Material properties + +### Comparative qualities + +The foil has a feel that can be compared with a window foil (to blind windows but let the light through): it's matte but very translucent. It doesn't crackle or jump back like a lot of other foils. + +### Technical and sensory properties + +- **Strength**: medium +- **Hardness**: flexible +- **Transparency**: translucent +- **Glossiness**: matt +- **Weight**: light +- **Structure**: closed +- **Texture**: medium +- **Temperature**: medium +- **Shape memory**: medium +- **Odor**: none +- **Stickiness**: low +- **Weather resistance:** needs further research +- **Acoustic properties:** needs further research +- **Anti-bacterial:** needs further research +- **Non-allergenic:**needs further research +- **Electrical properties:** needs further research +- **Heat resistance:** high, up to 150 degrees celcius +- **Water resistance:** waterproof (for PH neutral and acidic water, not for alkaline water) +- **Chemical resistance:** needs further research +- **Scratch resistance:** high +- **Surface friction:** medium +- **Color modifiers:** none + +## About this entry + +### Maker(s) of this sample + +- Name: Loes Bogers +- Affiliation: Fabricademy student at Waag Textile Lab Amsterdam +- Location: Amsterdam, the Netherlands +- Date: 25-02-2020 – 02-03-2020 + +### Environmental conditions + +- Outside temp: 5-11 degrees Celcius +- Room temp: 18 – 22 degrees Celcius +- PH tap water: 7-8 + +### Recipe validation + +Has recipe been validated? Yes + +By Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 + +### Estimated cost (consumables) in local currency + +1,12 Euros for a yield for a sheet of alginate plastic (about a 50 cm x 12 cm sheet, 2 mm thick) + + +## Copyright information + +### This recipe is in the public domain (CC0) + +Yes + +### This recipe was previously published by someone else + +This is a modified version of: **Flexible Bio-plastic Alginate Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). + +##References + +- **Flexible Bio-plastic Alginate Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). +- **The Science Of Spherification: Theoreticians examine the atomic details of an avant-garde culinary technique"**, by Bethany Halford, Chemical and Engineering News, Volume 92 Issue 42, pp. 35-36, October 2014: https://cen.acs.org/articles/92/i42/Science-Spherification.html + +## Images of final product +*Alginate foil, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Alginate foil, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Alginate foil, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Alginate foil, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Alginate foil, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Alginate foil, Loes Bogers, 2020* + + + + diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/flowerpaper.md b/docs/files/recipes/flowerpaper.md index 159a7fddfcd163fc348b94068377edde991bafa6..5b460bd3914e4bb18fb8e1a9f0cfa0e10afb562b 100644 --- a/docs/files/recipes/flowerpaper.md +++ b/docs/files/recipes/flowerpaper.md @@ -1,215 +1,279 @@ -# PAPER FROM WILTED FLOWERS +# PAPER AND DYE FROM WITHERED FLOWERS + ### Tactility & sound impression -<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gNOtGunJc2A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> +<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dZpvG2pKwoo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> ### Description -A (naturally) amber-coloured hard bioresin, gelatin-based. +Thin paper made of dried flowers (pounded not blended). ### Physical form -Solids +Surfaces -Color without additives: transparent, yellow/orange/amber colored. +Color without additives: yellow/brown ### Fabrication time -Preparation time: 1 Hour +Preparation time: 2 Hours -Processing time: 5-10 days +Processing time: 2-4 weeks -Need attention: None, just leave it to dry as long as is feasible with lots of airflow. +Need attention: every 8-16 hours after drying to press. -Final form achieved after: 10 days +Final form achieved after: 2-4 weeks ## Ingredients -* **Gelatine powder - 96 gr** - * Functions as the polymeer (so it becomes a solid) -* **Glycerine - 16 gr** - * Functions as plasticizer that bonds with the gelatine (makes it flexible). -* **Water - 480 ml/gr** - * To dissolve and mix the polymeer and plasticizer +* **Bouquet of withered flowers**, the ones the florist throws away + * Flowers will provide the cellulose and fibres to make the paper +* **Soda ash** (carbonate soda), 15 g + * To wash off dirt and grit +* **Water**, enough to cover the dried flowers +* **a coffee filter** to filter the fine particles from the flower dye + ## Tools -1. **Cooker or stove** (optional: temperature controlled) -1. **Pot** -1. **Scale** -1. **Moulds** (ideally with removeable base to increase airflow). I have modular silicon walls with metal wire inside them that allow me to cast and then turn the moulds on their side for more airflow and drying from top and bottom. I use a silicon or acrylic sheet with these mould walls. -1. **Spoon** +1. **A drying rack** +1. **Metal wire** or fish wire +1. **Rubber bands** +1. **A cooker** +1. **A pot** +1. **A spoon** +1. **A mortar and pestle** to pound the flowers (you *can* also do this with a blender but you will cut the fibres short doing that, resulting in a more brittle paper that is less strong). +1. **A picture frame** to create a mould & deckle. The picture frame should ideally fit into your sink or into a large oven dish that you can fill with water to distribute the fibres evenly. +1. **A sheet of fine mesh** to create a mould & deckle +1. **A staple gun** to create a mould & deckle +1. **A strainer**, to rinse and strain the boiled flowers +1. **A funnel**, to capture the flower dye +1. **A coffee filter**, to filter the flower dye +1. **A glass jar**, to store the flower dye ## Yield before processing/drying/curing -Approx. 300 ml (make sure to evaporate a lot of water during cooking time) +Approx. [number] [unit] ## Method -1. **Preparation** +1. **Drying the flowers** + - Separate the flowers based on thickness and hardness of the stems. They will dry at different rates so it's useful to group them together for drying. You can separate by color at a later stage. + - Tie small bundles together with a rubber bend and suspend them upside down from a drying rack, using fish wire or metal wire. + - Leave them to dry for about 2 weeks or longer, until they make a crackling sound and are totally dried out. - - Weigh your ingredients - - Prepare the mold and find a place where you can leave it for a while, ideally near an open window where there's air flow. +1. **Separating and boiling** + - When the flowers are dry, separate them by color (yellow gives a yellow-ish paper, whereas blue and purple will be more green, and red flowers will become a light brown). These can be enhanced by adding some natural colorants if you wish. + - Now separate the flower leaves if you want to make a delicate, thin paper with a fine texture. Keep the stems for a rougher thicker paper that is more cardboard like. Cut them into smaller pieces so they fit in your pot. + - Cover the flowers with water, and add the soda. Bring to a boil and boil for 30 minutes until the fibres are soft. This will take longer if you incorporated the stems as well, they can be tough. + - Strain the fibres (catching the boiling liquid in a pot for later). + - Then rinse the flowers with cold water using a strainer. + - Decide if you will be pounding the flowers by hand (Japanese style), which keeps the fibres longer and your paper sronger. If you do this using stems make sure they are very very soft or you won't be able to pound them. Alternatively blend the boiled flowers (and stems) with a kitchen blender, resulting in shorter fibres and more brittle paper. -1. **Mixing and dissolving the ingredients** - - bring the water to the boil - - optional: add natural dye if you wish to use color - - add the glycerine - - add the gelatine - - keep the temperature below 80 degrees celcius while stirring *very very slowly and gently* to avoid making bubbles. I prefer a simple spoon to do this, not a whisk. +1. **Option A: Pounding** + - Transfer the boiled flowers into a mortar and pestle and pound them until you get a very fine mushy slurry. + - Optional: if you wish to enhance the color you can add some dye to the slurry during pounding. -1. **Cooking the ingredients** +1. **Option B: Blending** + - Transfer the boiled fibres into a blender and blend into a slurry. Make sure there are no big pieces of fibre and stems left. - - Simmer and slowly stir the mixture between 60-80 degrees celcius for at least 20 minutes or up to an hour. Turn it lower when bubbles appear: you don't want the liquid to move, don't boil it. This sample has some bubbles due to vigorous mixing. - - Longer cooking time allows more water to evaporate. You will get a thicker liquid. To cast larger volumes and solids with this recipe, evaporate a lot of water, until it's very thick. - -1. **Casting** +1. **Moulding slurry onto the screen** + - Scoop your slurry onto your mould & deckle. Cover the screen with about 1.5-2.0 mm slurry (it will shrink a lot). If your screen is too big to cover with a layer that is thick enough, mold it into a desired shape using a strip of acrylic, a ruler or other straight edge. + - Carefully submerge the mold & deckle into water (in the sink or in a large oven tray or oven dish) to help distribute it evenly. + - Optional: spray some additional colorants onto the slurry. - - Let the liquid cool for a couple minutes until it gels a little but is still liquid and pourable. - - Cast into the mould slowly to avoid bubbles - - Pour from the middle and hold still, let the liquid distribute itself. - - Put the mould away to dry in a cool place with lots of air flow (like near an open window). A warmer place might speed up the drying process but also allow bacteria to grow faster and can result in fungal growth. - - If the mould has a removable base, remove it after 4-8 hours and put the mould on its side to allow air flow from both sides. - - When using a flexible mould: let it dry without releasing to keep the form as much as possible. The resin will likely shrink and release itself from the mold. If it feels cold to the touch it is still drying. If you are using a rigid mold: release after 4-8 hours and dry flat. +1. **Drying and pressing** + - Leave the slurry to dry without touching or moving it for about 2 days. Outside or near a window speeds up the process a little. + - When the slurry is completely dry, carefully peel it off with a piece of thread or a scalpel. The slurry is dry when it no longer feels cool to the touch. + - Press the paper under a stack of heavy books to keep it flat. Store in a dry space. +1. **Saving the boiling liquid as dye** + - If you saved the boiling liquid you can use it as a dye (creates subtle yellows and greens). The dye will be alkaline (PH 8-9) due to the soda that was added to the water. Acidic and copper modifiers make for lighter yellows and greens respectively. ### Drying/curing/growth process -- Mold depth: 7 cm (filled up until 2.5cm high) -- Shrinkage thickness: 20-30 % -- Shrinkage width/length: 20-30 % +[Free text] + +- Mold depth : N/A +- Shrinkage thickness 50-80 % +- Shrinkage width/length 0-10 % **Shrinkage and deformation control** -Letting it dry up to ten days to get to the final form. It will be flexible at first but will slowly harden until its totally rigid. +Taking the paper off the screen too early - before it is completely dry - will cause deformation. Pressing after drying helps to keep it flat. **Curing agents and release agents** -None. +N/A **Minimum wait time before releasing from mold** - -Using a silicon mold: 7 days (or until it comes undone) +2 days **Post-processing** - -Store in a dry and ventilated room. +Press if necessary to keep flat, story dry and flat. **Further research needed on drying/curing/growth?** -Casting larger volumes without growing fungus/mold, and limited warping can be challenging. Fillers like debris or egg shells can help. More research can be done on ideal conditions for drying larger volumes. +Not sure -The resin does not cure evenly across the surface, some might be negotiated by shaving off some slides while it is still relatively soft and flexible. +### Process +#### 1. Drying the flowers -### Process +*Flowers saved from the florist's trash (with permission of course), Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Separating the flowers based on thickness and hardness of the stems, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Hanging the bundles to dry for at least 2 weeks, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +#### 2. Making a mould & deckle + +*Making a mould & deckle, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Ideally fits inside the sink, and can sit on top for drying, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +#### 3. Separating & boiling (color, flowers-only or with stems) + +*Flowers and frames, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Dried flowers (before separating from the stems), Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Boil the flowers (and optional: stems) with some soda ash, Loes Bogers, 2020* + + +#### 4. Option A: Using flowers only (pounded) + +*The pounded slurry, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Molding the slurry onto the mesh, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*The paper on the mesh after drying for 2 days, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Evaporating water until the liquid is thick like honey, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Using only flowers and pounding by hand (front) creates a delicate, thin but strong paper compared to blending with the stems (back), Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Preparing molds for small half domes (egg cups), and a big slab (silicon mould and separate base), Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Casting the resin (I had to put a weight on top to press the mold into the base and prevent leakage, Loes Bogers, 2020* +#### 4. Option B: Using flowers and stems (with a blender) -*Putting the mold on its side next to open window to allow further drying from top and bottom, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Using flower and stems, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Alternatively: blend flowers (with stems), Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Mold the slurry on the mould & deckle, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Using stems and blending creates a thicker, more rigid but also more brittle cardboard-like paper (front), Loes Bogers, 2020* + +#### Save the boiling water to use as a dye** + +*Filter the cooking water for a yellow dye, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Flower dye on paper, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Subtle yellows and greens wit flower dye on silk (overnight dye), with modifiers (lemon PH 2 and copper), Loes Bogers, 2020* ## Variations on this recipe -- Add a **natural colorant** such as a vegetable dye or water-based ink (e.g. hibiscus, beetroot, madder) -- Add **less glycerine** for a more rigid foil -- **Stiffeners** such as fibres, yarn or natural debris may be added for more structure and reinforcement. -- **Fillers** such as almond or sunflower oil, can be added to prevent additional shrinkage but might affect stickyness. +- Add natural colorants to the slurry and/or spray it on top (e.g. cabbage dye with soda, avocado dye to enhance the color of paper from blue/purple and red flowers respectively. +- Create paper with a different thickness +- Instead of a frame, try drying the slurry into a 3D shape by laying the mesh over a mold (experimental). +- Try making a gradient paper [link] (https://www.paperslurry.com/2017/12/20/make-gradient-paper-a-creative-hand-papermaking-technique/) +- Make paper from other cellulose waste, such as paper waste, or research and forage plants that are considered invasive in your local environment, see also Megan Heere's [*Invasive Paper project*](https://meganheeres.com/section/402220_The_Invasive_Paper_Project.html) +- Some recipes suggest an additional step of *couching* instead of drying on the mesh. ### Cultural origins of this recipe -Bioplastic production is older than petrol based plastics. In 1500 BC, people in Egypt were already using glues based on gelatin, casein and albumin for furniture constructions. Gelatin casting as a technique has also been used in production of jelly-based foods such as aspic, jelly desserts and candy. +[Free text] -**Needs further research?** Not sure +**Needs further research?** Yes/No/Not sure -### References this recipe draws from +[Notes] -- **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). -- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) +### This recipe draws together information from these other recipes -### Known concerns and contestations\* +- **Hand-papermaking With Plants** by May Babcock for Paper Slurry, 20 August, 2014: [link](https://www.paperslurry.com/2014/08/20/hand-papermaking-with-plants-illustrated-infographic/) -Needs further research +- **Flower Paper** by Maria Viftrup for Material Archive at Textile Lab Amsterdam, n.d. + +### Known concerns and contestations\* -Gelatin is an animal-based ingredient. Some might find it problematic to use resources that requires killing an animal because of religious or animal welfare beliefs. Arguments are also made that as long as there's a meat industry, it is better to use product from the entire animal, including skin and bones. Some might consider gelatin to be a product that comes from a waste stream, but this is considered controversial by others. +Yes/No/Needs further research -Acrylic (for the mold) is a petrol based plastic but results in very shiny foils and sheets and can be reused endlessly for casting high quality bioplastic sheets. +[Describe them here free text] -Using renewable ingredients is not by definition petrol-free. Imagine they have to travel long distances by plane, boat or truck: it takes fuel. Also, the effects of GMO technologies and pesticides can be harmful to the environment and it's worth using knowing the source and production standards involved. If you can afford it, buying organic ingredients is a good starting point. ### Sustainability tags - Renewable ingredients: yes -- Vegan: no -- Made of by-products or waste: no +- Vegan: yes +- Made of by-products or waste: yes - Biocompostable final product: yes -- Reuse: yes, by melting and recasting +- Re-use: yes, can be re-used in the next paper slurry (consider additives) -Needs further research?: not sure - -Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water. Recycling them with PET plastics contaminates the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow. +Needs further research?: Not sure ## Material properties ### Comparative qualities -This resin is dense and rather heavy, but not rock hard like synthetic epoxy or cold like glass. It keeps certain level of bounciness to it. + +Pounded paper made from flower fibres results in a thin but very strong paper. It is more rigid than for example office paper and has more texture. You can see all the details of the fibres used. + +Blended paper (especially the ones made with stems) are more brittle and have even more texture and a rough feel. Somewhat like pressed paper waste composites (such as the ones used for fruit and vegetable packaging), but more rough to the touch. ### Technical and sensory properties -- **Strength**: strong -- **Hardness**: rigid -- **Transparency**: transparent +- **Strength**: medium +- **Hardness**: resilient/variable +- **Transparency**: translucent/variable - **Glossiness**: matt -- **Weight**: heavy +- **Weight**: light - **Structure**: closed -- **Texture**: medium -- **Temperature**: medium +- **Texture**: rough/medium/variable +- **Temperature**: warm - **Shape memory**: high -- **Odor**: moderate in final product, high during production +- **Odor**: moderate (strong smells during cooking, mild smell of dry plant fibre on the final product) - **Stickiness**: low -- **Weather resistance:** low +- **Weather resistance:** poor - **Acoustic properties:** needs further research - **Anti-bacterial:** needs further research - **Non-allergenic:** needs further research - **Electrical properties:** needs further research -- **Heat resistance:** low -- **Water resistance:** water resistant +- **Heat resistance:** needs further research +- **Water resistance:** low - **Chemical resistance:** needs further research -- **Scratch resistance:** moderate +- **Scratch resistance:** poor - **Surface friction:** medium - **Color modifiers:** none ## About this entry -### Maker(s) of this sample +### Maker of this sample - Name: Loes Bogers - Affiliation: Fabricademy student at Waag Textile Lab Amsterdam -- Location: Rotterdam, the Netherlands -- Date: 06-03-2020 – 16-03-2020 +- Location: Amsterdam, the Netherlands +- Date: 25-02-2020 – 18-03-2020] ### Environmental conditions +- Humidity: not sure - Outside temp: 5-11 degrees Celcius - Room temp: 18 – 22 degrees Celcius - PH tap water: 7-8 ### Recipe validation -Has recipe been validated? Yes +Has recipe been validated? + +Yes By Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 ### Estimated cost (consumables) in local currency -2,56 Euros for a yield of approx 300 ml +0,01 Euros, for a yield of approx. 4 small sheets of paper ## Copyright information @@ -219,20 +283,25 @@ Yes ### This recipe was previously published by someone else -Yes, in: **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). +Yes, this is a variation on: **Hand-papermaking With Plants** by May Babcock for Paper Slurry, 20 August, 2014: [link](https://www.paperslurry.com/2014/08/20/hand-papermaking-with-plants-illustrated-infographic/) ##References -- **The Secrets of Bioplastic** by Clara Davis (Fabtex, IAAC, Fab Lab Barcelona), 2017, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/the_secrets_of_bioplastic_). -- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) -- **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). +**Hand-papermaking With Plants** by May Babcock for Paper Slurry, 20 August, 2014: [link](https://www.paperslurry.com/2014/08/20/hand-papermaking-with-plants-illustrated-infographic/) + +### Images of final product + +*Flower paper (no stems), Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Flower paper (no stems), Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Flower paper (no stems), Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Flower paper dye, Loes Bogers, 2020* -## Images of final product +*Flower paper dye on paper, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Bioresin slab, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Bioresin slab, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Bioresin slab and half dome, Loes Bogers, 2020* diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/madderdye.md b/docs/files/recipes/madderdye.md index 457db2c762b9d44790dc056fb890e6e1f9db0226..813e9685d0fdcc2aef74a6721f4b08c73ced461a 100644 --- a/docs/files/recipes/madderdye.md +++ b/docs/files/recipes/madderdye.md @@ -1,215 +1,167 @@ # MADDER DYE -### Tactility & sound impression - -<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gNOtGunJc2A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> +*Madder dye on silk, Loes Bogers, 2020* ### Description -A (naturally) amber-coloured hard bioresin, gelatin-based. +Madder dye (can also be used as a water based ink) produces bright red to orange brownish colors on silk. One of the few natural dyes that can provide such bright red hues. ### Physical form -Solids +Pastes, gels & liquids -Color without additives: transparent, yellow/orange/amber colored. +Color without additives: bright reds to orange/brown. ### Fabrication time -Preparation time: 1 Hour +Preparation time: 2 Hours -Processing time: 5-10 days +Processing time: for dying is variable (overnight for intense red on silk) -Need attention: None, just leave it to dry as long as is feasible with lots of airflow. +Need attention: the entire processing time (temperature and stirring) -Final form achieved after: 10 days +Final form achieved after: 2 hours ## Ingredients -* **Gelatine powder - 96 gr** - * Functions as the polymeer (so it becomes a solid) -* **Glycerine - 16 gr** - * Functions as plasticizer that bonds with the gelatine (makes it flexible). -* **Water - 480 ml/gr** - * To dissolve and mix the polymeer and plasticizer +* **madder roots (dried) - 50 g** also: Rubia Tinctorum, this is the dye stuff +* **water - 500 ml/g** solvent +* **alum - 30 g** (also: potassium aluminium sulphate) will draw the pigment out of the madder root. +* **soda ash - 5 g** to create bright reds +* **a coffee filter** to filter the fine particles from the dye +* optional: 100% pure silk, or aquarel/water colors paper and a paint brush to test the dye/ink + ## Tools -1. **Cooker or stove** (optional: temperature controlled) +1. **Cooker**, ideally with temperature control 1. **Pot** -1. **Scale** -1. **Moulds** (ideally with removeable base to increase airflow). I have modular silicon walls with metal wire inside them that allow me to cast and then turn the moulds on their side for more airflow and drying from top and bottom. I use a silicon or acrylic sheet with these mould walls. -1. **Spoon** +1. **A spoon** +1. **A cheese cloth or coffee filter** +1. **A thermometer** (if your cooker doesn't have temperature control) +1. **A strainer** +1. **A glass jar** to store the dye +1. Optional: a blender or mortar and pestle -## Yield before processing/drying/curing +## Yield -Approx. 300 ml (make sure to evaporate a lot of water during cooking time) +Approx. 500 ml ## Method 1. **Preparation** - - Weigh your ingredients - - Prepare the mold and find a place where you can leave it for a while, ideally near an open window where there's air flow. - -1. **Mixing and dissolving the ingredients** - - bring the water to the boil - - optional: add natural dye if you wish to use color - - add the glycerine - - add the gelatine - - keep the temperature below 80 degrees celcius while stirring *very very slowly and gently* to avoid making bubbles. I prefer a simple spoon to do this, not a whisk. - -1. **Cooking the ingredients** - - - Simmer and slowly stir the mixture between 60-80 degrees celcius for at least 20 minutes or up to an hour. Turn it lower when bubbles appear: you don't want the liquid to move, don't boil it. This sample has some bubbles due to vigorous mixing. - - Longer cooking time allows more water to evaporate. You will get a thicker liquid. To cast larger volumes and solids with this recipe, evaporate a lot of water, until it's very thick. - -1. **Casting** - - - Let the liquid cool for a couple minutes until it gels a little but is still liquid and pourable. - - Cast into the mould slowly to avoid bubbles - - Pour from the middle and hold still, let the liquid distribute itself. - - Put the mould away to dry in a cool place with lots of air flow (like near an open window). A warmer place might speed up the drying process but also allow bacteria to grow faster and can result in fungal growth. - - If the mould has a removable base, remove it after 4-8 hours and put the mould on its side to allow air flow from both sides. - - When using a flexible mould: let it dry without releasing to keep the form as much as possible. The resin will likely shrink and release itself from the mold. If it feels cold to the touch it is still drying. If you are using a rigid mold: release after 4-8 hours and dry flat. - - -### Drying/curing/growth process - -- Mold depth: 7 cm (filled up until 2.5cm high) -- Shrinkage thickness: 20-30 % -- Shrinkage width/length: 20-30 % - -**Shrinkage and deformation control** + - Weigh the ingredients (and, optional: grind the madder root into a powder using a blender. By making the dye stuff smaller, you create more surface, which makes it easier to pull the pigments out of the madder root). -Letting it dry up to ten days to get to the final form. It will be flexible at first but will slowly harden until its totally rigid. +1. **Extract the pigment with alum** -**Curing agents and release agents** + - Bring 600 ml of water to the boil, add the alum and stir to dissolve. Bring the water down to 70 degrees celcius. Use a thermometer and make sure it doesn't exceed 70 degrees throughout the entire cooking process (the madder pigment will turn dull and brown). + - Add the ground madder roots and simmer at 70 degrees for 60 minutes. + - Strain the liquid into a bowl (keep the madder roots) + - Put the dye back into the pot, and add the soda ash (it will froth a little), stir and continue to simmer for 10-15 minutes. This is the dye for bright reds. + - Filter the liquid through a cheesecloth or coffee filter to filter out the solid bits. This may take a while. -None. + - Optional: you can keep the madder roots for a second filtration with alum solution. It won't be as intense but you will continue to get color from it albeit a bit lighter. If it holds no more color, add vinegar or another acid to modify the color of the dye from the second filtration to orange and yellow colors. -**Minimum wait time before releasing from mold** +1. **Using the ink as a dye or on paper** -Using a silicon mold: 7 days (or until it comes undone) - -**Post-processing** - -Store in a dry and ventilated room. - -**Further research needed on drying/curing/growth?** - -Casting larger volumes without growing fungus/mold, and limited warping can be challenging. Fillers like debris or egg shells can help. More research can be done on ideal conditions for drying larger volumes. - -The resin does not cure evenly across the surface, some might be negotiated by shaving off some slides while it is still relatively soft and flexible. + - Use a funnel to transfer your dye into a glass jar. + - Use the warm dye immediately by adding a piece of wet silk or other (mordanted fibre) to it and leave overnight. Don't put silk in hot water, it damages the fibre. Then rinse and dry the silk. + - You can also use it as an ink (hot or cold). Use fine chinese brushes and aquarel/water colors paper. + - To store: add a clove and store in the fridge or freeze. If it smells weird or grows fungus, throw it away and make new ink. + - Using the dye at a later stage: warm up the dye by putting the glass jar au bain marie (put it in a larger pot with boiling water). Slowly heat it up until warm, not hot. Add (mordanted) fibres such as silk, leave overnight for deep hues. + - Rinse and dry ### Process +*Madder roots, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Evaporating water until the liquid is thick like honey, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Adding alum , Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Preparing molds for small half domes (egg cups), and a big slab (silicon mould and separate base), Loes Bogers, 2020* +*After the first extraction, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Casting the resin (I had to put a weight on top to press the mold into the base and prevent leakage, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Add a pinch of soda ash, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Putting the mold on its side next to open window to allow further drying from top and bottom, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Froth after adding soda ash, Loes Bogers, 2020* ## Variations on this recipe -- Add a **natural colorant** such as a vegetable dye or water-based ink (e.g. hibiscus, beetroot, madder) -- Add **less glycerine** for a more rigid foil -- **Stiffeners** such as fibres, yarn or natural debris may be added for more structure and reinforcement. -- **Fillers** such as almond or sunflower oil, can be added to prevent additional shrinkage but might affect stickyness. +- You can extract pigment (insoluble particles) for paints by adding a 10% carbonate soda solution (25g of soda ash on 250g hot water). Add only little bits because it froths a lot. Let it precipitate and filter it through a fine cloth. Dry the solids and add a binder to create paints. See also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YVO2Dr8gD8. +- Add a binder such as arabic gum to create a nicer flow if you wish to use this ink for painting and arts, not dyeing textiles. + ### Cultural origins of this recipe -Bioplastic production is older than petrol based plastics. In 1500 BC, people in Egypt were already using glues based on gelatin, casein and albumin for furniture constructions. Gelatin casting as a technique has also been used in production of jelly-based foods such as aspic, jelly desserts and candy. +Before synthetic dyes were discovered in 1856, you would have had to use natural dyes which were made from animals and plants. The most common - and intense - being madder, red, and indigo, blue. Madder came from the roots of 35 species of plants (Rubia Tinctorum) found in Southern Europe and West-Asia. It has been found in the cloth of mummies and was the ï¬rst dye to be used as camouflage. Madder was brought to the south of the Netherlands and Flanders around 1300 where the soil was optimal for madder cultivation. This led to a thriving local industry for madder production, until *garancine* the synthetic counterpart for alizerine was discovered and gained in popularity around 1870. The agricultural industry of madder plants has started growing again in Belgium and the Netherlands in recent years as the textile and fashion industry started rediscovering its potential as a natural pigment for textile dyeing. **Needs further research?** Not sure -### References this recipe draws from - -- **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). -- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) +### This recipe draws together information from these other recipes -### Known concerns and contestations\* +- **Genuine Madder Lake Pigment Extraction** by Jeremy Francis, The Alchemical Arts, Youtube, 13 August 2019, [link](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YVO2Dr8gD8). +- **Madder - Biochromes** by Cecilia Raspanti for Fabricademy 2019-2020, Class slides [link](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ar8j0cJntsFiBxdnrhqTA_9lgDDzB1Wg/view?usp=sharing) -Needs further research +### Known concerns and contestations -Gelatin is an animal-based ingredient. Some might find it problematic to use resources that requires killing an animal because of religious or animal welfare beliefs. Arguments are also made that as long as there's a meat industry, it is better to use product from the entire animal, including skin and bones. Some might consider gelatin to be a product that comes from a waste stream, but this is considered controversial by others. +Compared to red pigments coming from the synthetic garancine, madder is less ecologically taxing. It doesn't require the sulphuric acid was used in the synthetic product. The plant can easily be multiplied and can be harvested after 2-3 years but is deemed rather labour intensive (require a fair amount of weeding and fertilizing). The roots need to be dried, which happens naturallly in sun light in warme climates. Heat needs to be generated in cold areas such as northern Europe. In comparison to commercial synthetic dyes, it is surely an improvement. -Acrylic (for the mold) is a petrol based plastic but results in very shiny foils and sheets and can be reused endlessly for casting high quality bioplastic sheets. +Intense colors can be considered a thing of great luxury. To create very concentrated inks and dyes, one needs a lot of dye stuff and additional compounds like alum and soda for intensification. Although sulphuric acids are left out of this recipe, could and should we not consider deep, concentrated dyes as a thing of luxury, not necessity? How might beauty be found in more subtle hues? Could we consider limiting ourselves to pigments extracted from e.g. food waste like avocado stones, onion skins or leftover red cabbage? -Using renewable ingredients is not by definition petrol-free. Imagine they have to travel long distances by plane, boat or truck: it takes fuel. Also, the effects of GMO technologies and pesticides can be harmful to the environment and it's worth using knowing the source and production standards involved. If you can afford it, buying organic ingredients is a good starting point. +Needs further research: Madder traveling from other parts of Europe and Asia to Northern Europe is possibly tied to practices of colonization and/or warfare. ### Sustainability tags - Renewable ingredients: yes -- Vegan: no +- Vegan: yes - Made of by-products or waste: no -- Biocompostable final product: yes -- Reuse: yes, by melting and recasting +- Biocompostable final product: needs further research +- Re-use: the madder roots can be filtered more times than once (results in oranges and yellows) -Needs further research?: not sure +Needs further research?: Yes -Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water. Recycling them with PET plastics contaminates the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow. +How often can this dye be reused? Overview of colors from second, third, fourth(?) extraction would be useful. ## Material properties ### Comparative qualities -This resin is dense and rather heavy, but not rock hard like synthetic epoxy or cold like glass. It keeps certain level of bounciness to it. -### Technical and sensory properties +This dye gives a bright red on silk. And pink/salmon tones on paper. -- **Strength**: strong -- **Hardness**: rigid -- **Transparency**: transparent -- **Glossiness**: matt -- **Weight**: heavy -- **Structure**: closed -- **Texture**: medium -- **Temperature**: medium -- **Shape memory**: high -- **Odor**: moderate in final product, high during production -- **Stickiness**: low -- **Weather resistance:** low -- **Acoustic properties:** needs further research -- **Anti-bacterial:** needs further research -- **Non-allergenic:** needs further research -- **Electrical properties:** needs further research -- **Heat resistance:** low -- **Water resistance:** water resistant -- **Chemical resistance:** needs further research -- **Scratch resistance:** moderate -- **Surface friction:** medium -- **Color modifiers:** none +### Technical and sensory properties +- **Color fastness:** medium +- **Light fastness:** medium +- **Washability:** medium +- **Color modifiers:** alkaline/acidic/copper/iron +- **Odor**: moderate ## About this entry -### Maker(s) of this sample +### Maker of this sample - Name: Loes Bogers - Affiliation: Fabricademy student at Waag Textile Lab Amsterdam -- Location: Rotterdam, the Netherlands -- Date: 06-03-2020 – 16-03-2020 +- Location: Amsterdam, the Netherlands +- Date: 20-02-2020 - 22-02-2020 ### Environmental conditions +- Humidity: not sure - Outside temp: 5-11 degrees Celcius - Room temp: 18 – 22 degrees Celcius - PH tap water: 7-8 ### Recipe validation -Has recipe been validated? Yes +Has recipe been validated? -By Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 +Yes, by Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 ### Estimated cost (consumables) in local currency -2,56 Euros for a yield of approx 300 ml +2,01 Euros, for a yield of approx. 500 ml ## Copyright information @@ -219,20 +171,22 @@ Yes ### This recipe was previously published by someone else -Yes, in: **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). +Yes, this is an adaptation of the recipes listed in the references but there are many very similar recipes out there. ##References -- **The Secrets of Bioplastic** by Clara Davis (Fabtex, IAAC, Fab Lab Barcelona), 2017, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/the_secrets_of_bioplastic_). -- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) -- **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). +- **Genuine Madder Lake Pigment Extraction** by Jeremy Francis, The Alchemical Arts, Youtube, 13 August 2019, [link](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YVO2Dr8gD8). +- **Madder - Biochromes** by Cecilia Raspanti for Fabricademy 2019-2020, Class slides [link](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ar8j0cJntsFiBxdnrhqTA_9lgDDzB1Wg/view?usp=sharing) +- **Meekrap**, Dutch page for "madder" on Wikipedia, n.d. [link](https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meekrap) +- **Meekrap**, by Jan Zwemer for Zeeuwse Ankers, n.d. [link] (https://www.zeeuwseankers.nl//app/uploads/2018/07/Meekrapteelt-en-bewerking.pdf) +- **A brief history of natural dyes**, by James P. Bernard for First Source Worldwide, 14 November 2017, [link](http://www.fsw.cc/NATURAL-DYES-HISTORY/) -## Images of final product +### Images of final product -*Bioresin slab, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Madder dye on silk, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Bioresin slab, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Madder dye on silk, modified with soda solution (PH 13), Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Bioresin slab and half dome, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Madder dye on paper, Loes Bogers, 2020* diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/oniondye.md b/docs/files/recipes/oniondye.md index f157a644076b2f490da859094cffce5155b37eb8..40ce882c6c8884feb0a0e25f714afde8ef302809 100644 --- a/docs/files/recipes/oniondye.md +++ b/docs/files/recipes/oniondye.md @@ -1,215 +1,170 @@ # YELLOW ONION SKIN DYE -### Tactility & sound impression - -<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gNOtGunJc2A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> +*Dye of yellow onion skins, Loes Bogers, 2020* ### Description -A (naturally) amber-coloured hard bioresin, gelatin-based. +Dye made of yellow onion skins, gives golden/yellow and orange to brown tones. ### Physical form -Solids +Pastes, gels & liquids -Color without additives: transparent, yellow/orange/amber colored. +Color without additives: Golden yellow ### Fabrication time -Preparation time: 1 Hour +Preparation time: 2 Hours -Processing time: 5-10 days +Processing time: for dying is variable (overnight for intense color on silk) -Need attention: None, just leave it to dry as long as is feasible with lots of airflow. +Need attention: the entire processing time (temperature and stirring) -Final form achieved after: 10 days +Final form achieved after: 2 hours ## Ingredients -* **Gelatine powder - 96 gr** - * Functions as the polymeer (so it becomes a solid) -* **Glycerine - 16 gr** - * Functions as plasticizer that bonds with the gelatine (makes it flexible). -* **Water - 480 ml/gr** - * To dissolve and mix the polymeer and plasticizer +* **Yellow onion skins - 10 g** this is the dye stuff +* **water - 500 ml/g** solvent to extract the pigment from the onion +* **vinegar - 30 ml** to make the bath acidic (alkaline water reduced the reds from the onion skins, adding vinegar makes it warmer, more orange). +* **salt - 5 g** as a stabilizer +* **a coffee filter** to filter the fine particles from the dye +* **a clove** for preservation +* optional: PH modifiers (see [this recipe](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/phmodifiers/)) +* optional: a piece of silk, or aquarel paper and a brush for testing. ## Tools -1. **Cooker or stove** (optional: temperature controlled) +1. **Cooker** 1. **Pot** -1. **Scale** -1. **Moulds** (ideally with removeable base to increase airflow). I have modular silicon walls with metal wire inside them that allow me to cast and then turn the moulds on their side for more airflow and drying from top and bottom. I use a silicon or acrylic sheet with these mould walls. -1. **Spoon** - +1. **A spoon** +1. **A cheese cloth or coffee filter** +1. **A strainer** +1. **A glass jar** to store the dye -## Yield before processing/drying/curing +## Yield -Approx. 300 ml (make sure to evaporate a lot of water during cooking time) +Approx. 200 ml ## Method 1. **Preparation** - - Weigh your ingredients - - Prepare the mold and find a place where you can leave it for a while, ideally near an open window where there's air flow. - -1. **Mixing and dissolving the ingredients** - - bring the water to the boil - - optional: add natural dye if you wish to use color - - add the glycerine - - add the gelatine - - keep the temperature below 80 degrees celcius while stirring *very very slowly and gently* to avoid making bubbles. I prefer a simple spoon to do this, not a whisk. - -1. **Cooking the ingredients** - - - Simmer and slowly stir the mixture between 60-80 degrees celcius for at least 20 minutes or up to an hour. Turn it lower when bubbles appear: you don't want the liquid to move, don't boil it. This sample has some bubbles due to vigorous mixing. - - Longer cooking time allows more water to evaporate. You will get a thicker liquid. To cast larger volumes and solids with this recipe, evaporate a lot of water, until it's very thick. - -1. **Casting** - - - Let the liquid cool for a couple minutes until it gels a little but is still liquid and pourable. - - Cast into the mould slowly to avoid bubbles - - Pour from the middle and hold still, let the liquid distribute itself. - - Put the mould away to dry in a cool place with lots of air flow (like near an open window). A warmer place might speed up the drying process but also allow bacteria to grow faster and can result in fungal growth. - - If the mould has a removable base, remove it after 4-8 hours and put the mould on its side to allow air flow from both sides. - - When using a flexible mould: let it dry without releasing to keep the form as much as possible. The resin will likely shrink and release itself from the mold. If it feels cold to the touch it is still drying. If you are using a rigid mold: release after 4-8 hours and dry flat. - - -### Drying/curing/growth process + - Weigh the onion skins. -- Mold depth: 7 cm (filled up until 2.5cm high) -- Shrinkage thickness: 20-30 % -- Shrinkage width/length: 20-30 % +1. **Extract the pigment** -**Shrinkage and deformation control** + - Put the onion skins in a large pot and cover with water, add the vinegar. + - Bring it to the boil and let it simmer for 2 hours (make sure not all the water evaporates), the skins should get very mushy. + - Strain and filter the liquid and put it back in the pot + - Reduce the liquid to 25% of the original volume for a very concentrated dye or ink. Add salt to stabilize. -Letting it dry up to ten days to get to the final form. It will be flexible at first but will slowly harden until its totally rigid. +1. **Testing and storing the ink/dye** -**Curing agents and release agents** + - To dye silk: let the dye cool until it's no more than 70 degrees and put in a piece or wet (mordanted) silk. Leave overnight for an intense color. + - Test the ink on paper using a brush and aquarel paper. + - To store: add a clove to the ink, label it, and store in the fridge or freeze. If it starts to grow mold or smells weird/different than cabbage smell, through it away. -None. +1. **Dyeing with onion dye** -**Minimum wait time before releasing from mold** + - Optional (not necessary) mordant the fibres with alum for color fastness + - Put the wet fibres in the dyebath and simmer for an hour, then leave overnight + - Rinse and dry + - Optional: modify with PH modifiers -Using a silicon mold: 7 days (or until it comes undone) -**Post-processing** - -Store in a dry and ventilated room. - -**Further research needed on drying/curing/growth?** +### Process -Casting larger volumes without growing fungus/mold, and limited warping can be challenging. Fillers like debris or egg shells can help. More research can be done on ideal conditions for drying larger volumes. +*Saving up onion skins in a glass jar, Loes Bogers, 2020* -The resin does not cure evenly across the surface, some might be negotiated by shaving off some slides while it is still relatively soft and flexible. +*10 g is enough to make a dye, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Cover the skins with water, Loes Bogers, 2020* -### Process +*Bring to the boil and let it simmer to extract the color, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Evaporating water until the liquid is thick like honey, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Strain the liquid, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Preparing molds for small half domes (egg cups), and a big slab (silicon mould and separate base), Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Filter the liquid, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Casting the resin (I had to put a weight on top to press the mold into the base and prevent leakage, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Adding some silk for dyeing (and a clove for preservation), Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Putting the mold on its side next to open window to allow further drying from top and bottom, Loes Bogers, 2020* +*Onion skin dye in a jar, Loes Bogers, 2020* ## Variations on this recipe -- Add a **natural colorant** such as a vegetable dye or water-based ink (e.g. hibiscus, beetroot, madder) -- Add **less glycerine** for a more rigid foil -- **Stiffeners** such as fibres, yarn or natural debris may be added for more structure and reinforcement. -- **Fillers** such as almond or sunflower oil, can be added to prevent additional shrinkage but might affect stickyness. +- Add a binder such as arabic gum to create a nicer flow if you wish to use this ink for painting and arts, not dyeing textiles. +- Make dyes for other kinds of food waste, like used coffee grounds (light browns), old coffee (deep browns), PH sensitive beetroot dye (vintage pinks and salmon tones) etc. Or research and consider dyes from dried goods like turmeric powder (bright yellow), PH sensitive hibiscus tea (purple, blues, greens and gray). +- Try making this dye with the skin of red onions +- Add some onion skins - or onion skin liquor - to another natural dye to give it some more warm yellow undertones. +- Make dyes from other food waste: such as the stones of avocados (put 2-3 of them in a bag and crush with a hammer) and boil in water with a teaspoon of soda for 2 hours. It creates fine red/brown inks and pink textile dyes. ### Cultural origins of this recipe -Bioplastic production is older than petrol based plastics. In 1500 BC, people in Egypt were already using glues based on gelatin, casein and albumin for furniture constructions. Gelatin casting as a technique has also been used in production of jelly-based foods such as aspic, jelly desserts and candy. +Onion dye is commonly used all over the world to dye yarns, fibres, eggs and even hair in golden yellow tones. -**Needs further research?** Not sure +**Needs further research?** Yes -### References this recipe draws from +Where were such dyes first used? Have yellow onions always been around locally or did they travel? -- **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). -- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) +### This recipe draws together information from these other recipes -### Known concerns and contestations\* +Boiling in water is a common way of extracting pigments from a dye stuff. The resources listed under references informed this recipe. -Needs further research +### Known concerns and contestations -Gelatin is an animal-based ingredient. Some might find it problematic to use resources that requires killing an animal because of religious or animal welfare beliefs. Arguments are also made that as long as there's a meat industry, it is better to use product from the entire animal, including skin and bones. Some might consider gelatin to be a product that comes from a waste stream, but this is considered controversial by others. - -Acrylic (for the mold) is a petrol based plastic but results in very shiny foils and sheets and can be reused endlessly for casting high quality bioplastic sheets. - -Using renewable ingredients is not by definition petrol-free. Imagine they have to travel long distances by plane, boat or truck: it takes fuel. Also, the effects of GMO technologies and pesticides can be harmful to the environment and it's worth using knowing the source and production standards involved. If you can afford it, buying organic ingredients is a good starting point. +Yellow onions can be found in abundance in many countries (including the Netherlands). Their skins are not eaten and as such are a great resource for creating dyestuffs. The collection of onion skins is not straightforward, there is no infrastructure for it yet. ### Sustainability tags - Renewable ingredients: yes -- Vegan: no -- Made of by-products or waste: no -- Biocompostable final product: yes -- Reuse: yes, by melting and recasting +- Vegan: yes +- Made of by-products or waste: yes +- Biocompostable final product: yes +- Re-use: yes -Needs further research?: not sure - -Gelatine-based bioplastics can be recasted by melting them in a pot with some water. Recycling them with PET plastics contaminates the waste stream. Compost bioplastics in a warm environment with sufficient airflow. +Needs further research?: Would be useful to have an overview of how often this can be used as a dye bath and how it fades. ## Material properties ### Comparative qualities -This resin is dense and rather heavy, but not rock hard like synthetic epoxy or cold like glass. It keeps certain level of bounciness to it. -### Technical and sensory properties +Onion skin dye is relatively colorfast compared to other natural dyes. It dyes animal-based fibres like silk and wool quite well, less intense on linen and cotton (plant-based fibres). -- **Strength**: strong -- **Hardness**: rigid -- **Transparency**: transparent -- **Glossiness**: matt -- **Weight**: heavy -- **Structure**: closed -- **Texture**: medium -- **Temperature**: medium -- **Shape memory**: high -- **Odor**: moderate in final product, high during production -- **Stickiness**: low -- **Weather resistance:** low -- **Acoustic properties:** needs further research -- **Anti-bacterial:** needs further research -- **Non-allergenic:** needs further research -- **Electrical properties:** needs further research -- **Heat resistance:** low -- **Water resistance:** water resistant -- **Chemical resistance:** needs further research -- **Scratch resistance:** moderate -- **Surface friction:** medium -- **Color modifiers:** none +### Technical and sensory properties +- **Color fastness:** medium +- **Light fastness:** medium +- **Washability:** medium +- **Color modifiers:** acidic/alkaline (only moderately) +- **Odor**: moderate (disappears after drying) ## About this entry -### Maker(s) of this sample +### Maker of this sample - Name: Loes Bogers - Affiliation: Fabricademy student at Waag Textile Lab Amsterdam -- Location: Rotterdam, the Netherlands -- Date: 06-03-2020 – 16-03-2020 +- Location: Amsterdam, the Netherlands +- Date: 06-03-2020 - 07-03-2020 ### Environmental conditions +- Humidity: not sure - Outside temp: 5-11 degrees Celcius - Room temp: 18 – 22 degrees Celcius - PH tap water: 7-8 ### Recipe validation -Has recipe been validated? Yes +Has recipe been validated? -By Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 +Yes, by Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 ### Estimated cost (consumables) in local currency -2,56 Euros for a yield of approx 300 ml +0,02 Euros, for a yield of approx. 200 ml ## Copyright information @@ -217,22 +172,34 @@ By Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 Yes -### This recipe was previously published by someone else +##References + +- **Biochromes** by Cecilia Raspanti for Fabricademy, 15 October 2019: [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week04/) +- **Yellow onion skins in alum mordant**, in: *Vegetable Dyeing* by Alma Lesch, 1970: pp. 54-55. +- **Natural dyeing yellows and browns with onion skins** by Andie Luijk for Renaissance Dyeing, 27 August 2009: [link](https://www.renaissancedyeing.com/en/blog/2009/08/27/natural-dyeing-yellows-and-browns-onion-skins/) + +### Images of final product + +*Yellow onion skin dye on paper, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Dye of yellow onion skins, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Dye of yellow onion skins with vinegar (PH 2) modifier, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Dye of yellow onion skins with soda (PH 9) modifier, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +*Dye of yellow onion skins with soda (PH 13) modifier, Loes Bogers, 2020* + + + + + -Yes, in: **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). -##References -- **The Secrets of Bioplastic** by Clara Davis (Fabtex, IAAC, Fab Lab Barcelona), 2017, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/the_secrets_of_bioplastic_). -- **The Bioplastics Cookbook: A Catalogue of Bioplastics Recipes** by Margaret Dunne for Fabtextiles, 2018, [link](https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3) -- **Bioresin (gelatin) Recipe** by Cecilia Raspanti (Textile Lab, Waag), Fabricademy Class "Biofabricating", 2019, [link](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week05A/). -## Images of final product -*Bioresin slab, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Bioresin slab, Loes Bogers, 2020* -*Bioresin slab and half dome, Loes Bogers, 2020* diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/avodye.md b/docs/files/recipes/out for now/avodye.md similarity index 99% rename from docs/files/recipes/avodye.md rename to docs/files/recipes/out for now/avodye.md index 5b7d3617e9c9cd196cf09ddadc48768d4406a799..7dd404e6b0ba3192200e2788d3c2e3fff15995e7 100644 --- a/docs/files/recipes/avodye.md +++ b/docs/files/recipes/out for now/avodye.md @@ -209,7 +209,7 @@ By Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 ### Estimated cost (consumables) in local currency -2,56 Euros for a yield of approx 300 ml +0,01 Euros for a yield of approx 100 ml if made from food dye ## Copyright information diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/beetrootdye.md b/docs/files/recipes/out for now/beetrootdye.md similarity index 100% rename from docs/files/recipes/beetrootdye.md rename to docs/files/recipes/out for now/beetrootdye.md diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/eggshellpowder.md b/docs/files/recipes/out for now/biomassfillers.md similarity index 99% rename from docs/files/recipes/eggshellpowder.md rename to docs/files/recipes/out for now/biomassfillers.md index 18e917383aa8da26ad29fd32b19b64f1e3d662e8..2fa13332be4a883955569688de5929b51d0a9727 100644 --- a/docs/files/recipes/eggshellpowder.md +++ b/docs/files/recipes/out for now/biomassfillers.md @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -# EGG SHELL POWDER +# BIOMASS FILLERS ### Tactility & sound impression diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/out for now/coffeedye.md b/docs/files/recipes/out for now/coffeedye.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..6201b765743e6bac439c3af2ff3eb39dc4c3a384 --- /dev/null +++ b/docs/files/recipes/out for now/coffeedye.md @@ -0,0 +1,183 @@ +# DYE OF COFFEE WASTE + +*Silk dyed with cabbage and modified with PH modifiers, Loes Bogers, 2020* + +### Description + +Dye of cold coffee and used coffee grounds + +### Physical form + +Pastes, gels & liquids + +Color without additives: Purple + +### Fabrication time + +Preparation time: 2 Hours + +Processing time: for dying is variable (overnight for intense color on silk) + +Need attention: the entire processing time (temperature and stirring) + +Final form achieved after: 2 hours + +## Ingredients + +* **Half a red cabbage** (also: brassica oleracea), this is the dye stuff. Try to get these as food waste +* **water - 1000 ml/g** solvent +* **salt - 5 g** for preservation (stabilizer) +* **PH modifiers** (see [this recipe](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/phmodifiers/)) +* optional: a piece of silk, or aquarel paper and a brush for testing. + +## Tools + +1. **Cooker**, ideally with temperature control +1. **Pot** +1. **A knife** to finely chop the cabbage , or a mandoline +1. **A spoon** +1. **A cheese cloth or coffee filter** +1. **A strainer** +1. **A glass jar** to store the dye + +## Yield + +Approx. 250 ml + +## Method + +1. **Preparation** + + - Chop the cabbage until it is very small, or grate it with a mandoline + +1. **Extract the pigment** + + - Put the cabbage in a large pot and cover with water + - Bring it to the boil and let it simmer for 2 hours (make sure not all the water evaporates) + - Strain the liquid and put it back in the pot + - Reduce the liquid to 25% of the original volume for a very concentrated dye or ink. + +1. **Testing and storing the ink/dye** + + - Add a teaspoon of salt while the liquid is still hot, stir to dissolve. + - To dye silk: let the dye cool until it's no more than 70 degrees and put in a piece or wet (mordanted) silk. Leave overnight for an intense color. + - Test the ink on paper using a brush and aquarel paper. Use the PH modifiers wet-on-wet, or let the ink dry before brushing or spraying on some of the modifiers. Play and experiment! + - To store: add a clove to the ink, label it, and store in the fridge. If it starts to grow mold or smells weird/different than cabbage smell, through it away. + + +### Process + +*, Loes Bogers, 2020* + + +## Variations on this recipe + +- You add the PH modifiers to the dye, or use the modifier after drying (on dried, dyed textiles). +- Add a binder such as arabic gum to create a nicer flow if you wish to use this ink for painting and arts, not dyeing textiles. +- Instead of making a water-based ink, you can also use red cabbage to make an alcohol-based marker ink. Grate the cabbage and chop as finely as possible, cover with denatured alcohol 96% and put in a jar with a tightly fitting lid. Shake every hour for 24 hours. Strain the liquid, add a clove, label and store. The ink can be modified with PH modifiers as well but this ink fades quicker than the dye. +- You can even use red cabbage dye to test the PH of a liquid. Dip some strips of coffee filter in the red cabbage dye. Let it dry. Then use a cotton swab to dab a bit of liquid (tap water, juice, wine, other) on the paper. If the paper becomes red/pink the PH is 2-4, purple is 5-7, blue is 8-9 and green/yellow is PH 10-12 approximately. See also [link](https://www.thoughtco.com/make-red-cabbage-ph-paper-605993) + +### Cultural origins of this recipe + +The anthocyanin in red cabbage is what makes it PH sensitive, and is why it changes color as you modify it with acidic or alkaline solutions. + +**Needs further research?** Not sure + +### This recipe draws together information from these other recipes + +No recipe in particular. Boiling in water is a common way of extracting pigments from a dye stuff. + +### Known concerns and contestations + +Cabbage can be found in abundance in many countries (including the Netherlands). It is not a hugely popular vegetable but still very common. Try to get red cabbage as food waste instead of buying it fresh. Dye materials should not compete with food. + +The color purple this dye or ink creates is quite contested. Historically, purple is considered to be the color of power, reserved for kings and queens and the like. It is also one of the colors that has historically ben rather expensive to produce as it required significant amounts of (often expensive) resources to generate intense and colorfast dyes using natural resources. Due to it's changing nature, red cabbage dye would not be considered an option worth considering for current textile dyeing practice. But perhaps its humble background and volatility make it the perfect everywoman's purple. Could it be instrumental in conveying the temporary luxury of purple textiles? Perhaps it is sufficient to be queen for a day? + + +### Sustainability tags + +- Renewable ingredients: yes +- Vegan: yes +- Made of by-products or waste: (ideally) yes +- Biocompostable final product: yes +- Re-use: no + +Needs further research?: Yes + +How often can this dye be reused? Overview of colors different PH modifiers during and after dyeing would be useful. Are there sustainable ways of making the dye more colorfast? + +## Material properties + +### Comparative qualities + +This dye gives bright purples. Alkaline modifiers create blues and greens, acidic modifiers towards pinks and reds. Less colorfast than other dyes like, madder dye. + +### Technical and sensory properties + +- **Color fastness:** low +- **Light fastness:** low +- **Washability:** low +- **Color modifiers:** alkaline/acidic/copper +- **Odor**: moderate (disappears after drying) + +## About this entry + +### Maker of this sample + +- Name: Loes Bogers +- Affiliation: Fabricademy student at Waag Textile Lab Amsterdam +- Location: Amsterdam, the Netherlands +- Date: 05-03-2020 - 06-03-2020 + +### Environmental conditions + +- Humidity: not sure +- Outside temp: 5-11 degrees Celcius +- Room temp: 18 – 22 degrees Celcius +- PH tap water: 7-8 + +### Recipe validation + +Has recipe been validated? + +Yes, by Cecilia Raspanti, Textile Lab, Waag Amsterdam, 9 March 2020 + +### Estimated cost (consumables) in local currency + +0,00 Euros, for a yield of approx. 250 ml if made from food waste + +## Copyright information + +### This recipe is in the public domain (CC0) + +Yes + +##References + +- xxxxx + + +### Images of final product + +*Coffee dye, 2020* + +*Coffee dye on paper, 2020* + +*Coffee dye on silk, 2020* + +*Dye of used coffee grounds, Loes Bogers, 2020* + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/copperoxide.md b/docs/files/recipes/out for now/copperoxide.md similarity index 100% rename from docs/files/recipes/copperoxide.md rename to docs/files/recipes/out for now/copperoxide.md diff --git a/docs/files/recipes/hibiscusdye.md b/docs/files/recipes/out for now/hibiscusdye.md similarity index 100% rename from docs/files/recipes/hibiscusdye.md rename to docs/files/recipes/out for now/hibiscusdye.md diff --git a/docs/images/cabbage1.jpg b/docs/images/cabbage1.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..d018ffe351799b21c6fd3fdb1408e9c626df49af Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/cabbage1.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/cabbage2.jpg b/docs/images/cabbage2.jpg new file mode 100644 index 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Price | Image | Link | |-----|-----------------|---------|--------------------------|--------| | 1 | Biofoam | €0,50 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/biofoam/) | -| 2 |Extra Flexible Foil| €0,78 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/biofoilextraflexible) | +| 2 | Extra Flexible Foil| €0,78 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/biofoilextraflexible) | | 3 | Bioresin | €2,56 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/bioresin) | | 4 | Biosilicone | €1,68|  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/biosilicon) | | 5 | Starch rubber | €2,26 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/biorubber) | | 6 | Biolinoleum | €0,78 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/biolino) | -| 7 | Egg shell powder | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/eggshellpowder) | -| 8 | Alginate net | €0,57 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/alginatenet) | -| 9 | Alginate foil | €1,12 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/alginatefoil) | +| 7 | Alginate net | €0,57 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/alginatenet) | +| 8 | Alginate foil | €1,12 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/alginatefoil) | +| 9 | **Coffee waste leather** | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/phmodifiers) | | 10 | Alginate string | €0,57 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/alginatestring) | | 11 | Agar foil | €0,50 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/agarfoil) | | 12 | Agar composite | €0,57 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/agarcomposite) | | 13 | Re-used PLA scraps | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/recycledPLA) | | 14 | Alum crystal silk | €2,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/alumcrystalsilk) | | 15| Borax crystals | €2,25 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/boraxcrystals) | -| 16| Kombucha SCOBY | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/kombuchascoby) | +| 16| **Kombucha SCOBY** | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/kombuchascoby) | | 17| Kombucha paper | €0,64 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/kombuchapaper) | -| 18 | Overripe mango leather | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/mangoleather) | -| 19 | Tanned fish skin | €1,10 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/fishskin) | -| 20| Madder dye | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/madderdye) | -| 21| Copper oxide | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/copperoxide) | -| 22 | Red cabbage dye | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/cabbagedye) | -| 23 | Coffee waste dye | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/coffeedye) | -| 24 | Bacterial dye on silk | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/bacterialdye) | -| 25 | Flower paper | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/flowerpaper) | -| 26 | Avocado stone dye | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/avodye) | -| 27 | Yellow onion skin dye | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/oniondye) | -| 28 | Beetroot dye | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/beetrootdye) | -| 29 | Hibiscus dye | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/hibiscusdye) | -| 30 | PH modifiers for biochromes | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/phmodifiers) | -| 31 | Coffee waste leather | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/phmodifiers) | +| 18 | Flower paper and dye | €0,01 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/flowerpaper) | +| 19 | Overripe mango leather | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/mangoleather) | +| 20 | Tanned fish skin | €1,10 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/fishskin) | +| 21| Madder dye | €2,01 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/madderdye) | +| 22 | Red cabbage dye | €0,01 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/cabbagedye) | +| 23 | Yellow onion skin dye | €0,02 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/oniondye) | +| 24 | **PH modifiers for biochromes** | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/phmodifiers) | +| 25 | **Bacterial dye on silk** | €0,00 |  | [Recipe](../../files/recipes/bacterialdye) | +