diff --git a/docs/assignments/week06.md b/docs/assignments/week06.md index c62a5272e822b1dd3f6054783a1aed289b0d7db2..c84f8634d53b521791f42b2b50711baa6548cc38 100644 --- a/docs/assignments/week06.md +++ b/docs/assignments/week06.md @@ -160,6 +160,11 @@ I kept a few pressed under a petri dish with weight on it to try keep them flat. *Bioresin:* also took a long time to dry and was still going after 5 days. At this point it was already a bit firmer and had slightly more tendency to curl up. These shrank about 20% up to now (so less than the silicone). +The transparent bioresin mix worked quite beautifully for me. I let it settle a while to thicken before I casted it onto ridged silicon and textured surfaces that left a beautiful imprint also after shrinking. It turned very rigid and strong. The textures play very nicely with the light. Could it be flat one day? + +*Transparent sample with texture, bioresin, Loes Bogers, 2019* + + **Texture and feeling** Still cold and rubbery (after 5 days) the bioresin a bit more rigid but rubbery still. Let's see what happens in the next week. These have a nice bouncy elasticity. @@ -218,6 +223,8 @@ The thicker foam buds (from the mixing pots) feel squishy and soft. The thinner You can keep adding liquid and heat and keep manipulating gelatine-based plastics (it's not heat- or waterproof), so we made a potluck gelatine left-over pot. It turned out to be very foamy so there was probably a good amount of foam leftovers in. +<div style="width:100%;height:0;padding-bottom:49%;position:relative;"><iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/darE9MFoJKGMuTnMic" width="100%" height="100%" style="position:absolute" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe></div><p><a href="https://giphy.com/gifs/darE9MFoJKGMuTnMic"></a></p>*Melting leftover gelatine bioplastics, Loes Bogers, 2019* + **Casting and releasing** I cast into petri dishes. The thinner samples both with and without egg shells were rather hard to release. They need longer or they get a bit damaged in handling (which happened to the plain foam one). The thicker one came out pretty soon and pretty easily. @@ -264,9 +271,11 @@ Warm up the water, add the glycerine, then the agar. Mix gently. If the agar doe I cast samples onto textured synthetic surfaces (which totally disappeared in the curing process) and poured some into petri dishes. It stays cold and rubbery for quite a while when you can still release it very easily. I left it to dry on baking paper. **Color behavior** -The alkanet turns gray but stays the same throughout. + +The alkanet turns gray but stays the same throughout. **Shrinkage/deformation** + Wow, these just turned into coral pretty much. The thinner samples shrank a lot in thickness and size and deformed into wicked seacreatures. Thicker casts kept their shape a lot better: the thicker round one with the big bubbles was left in a mixing pot and then released, it shrank since then but didn't deform. I did not cast in petri dishes so cannot measure well how much the shrank. **Notes on the stiffeners: raw or cooked, pre-mixed or thrown right in** @@ -281,7 +290,7 @@ Thicker ones are still moist and cold, squishy/rubbery. The thinly casted foils [](https://gifyu.com/image/kJYz)*Agar-based biofoils with raw stiffeners (left to right:) wheat flour dumped in without dissolving, rice flour and tapioca dissolved cold and mixed in, Loes Bogers, 2019* - **Attempt to cast a large sheet of foil** +**Attempt to cast a large sheet of foil** The raw rice flour made the mixture thicker and easier to pour without making elaborate frames, but also shrank loads. This could be because of the rice flour, or because I poured it out onto a bigger surface, and a bit thinner, I'm not sure. @@ -324,30 +333,37 @@ Alginate plastic is bioplastic that is heat resistant up to 150 degrees celcius. The technique was developed by Unilver in the 1950s(!) as a cooking technique (think: bubble tea!), and popularized in the molecular gastronomy experiments by Adrian Ferra at El Bulli ([source](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spherification). We use it to make plastic! Righty-o :) +**Additives used this week (more info below):** + +* food coloring (red) \> *stain alert!!* +* soot ink (black) +* acrylic paint (bronze metallic and blue/green colors) +* natural ink: alkanet (faded purple) +* food coloring in the dye bath (red and yellow, leaving subtle hues on the lighter opaque plastics) +* egg shell powder as a filler + + **Recipe/procedure** Mix the alginate with water and glycerine using a blender or hand held mixer (different ratios depending on the recipe, see amounts below). Prepare colors in a jar and add colors to each if you want. Let the mixture rest overnight to let the bubbles settle, you can keep it for about 2 weeks in the fridge. Mix the calcium chloride (10%) with water (90%) and put in a spray bottle or wide dish. +*Jars with sodium alginate with different colorants, some of my blobs and twirls, Cecilia demonstrating the process, Loes Bogers, 2019* + **Casting, releasing** Fill a small spray bottle with a mixture of 10% calcium chloride and water. Spray calcium chloride onto (textured) surfaces or molds, and cast the mixture on top, spray some more to let it cure. Rinse in water and let dry. It will shrink a lot so play with ways of draying to get different effects. Releasing is not an issue whatsoever. The film that is created in the chemical reacting will make the plastic separate instantly. The alginate cures with the slightest encounter with calcium chloride, so spreading it takes some skill. Also combining materials is not so easy. When trying to weld different materials together after curing (one), it first needs to be thoroughly rinsed and dried. -*Diary of a leftover queen* - -At a certain point I got a bit lost. I wasn't so sure what I wanted from this material. I kind of like the process but was a bit steerless. We also got to a point where we ran out of mixture so I'd have to decide to make more (without knowing what to do, or just leave it at this). My last move was just going through the lab and cleaning our literally every mixing jar and seeing what that would lead to. - -I harvested some lovely organlike bits by scraping leftovers out with my gloved finger (covered in curing agent). I also rescued a beautiful thin piece of black film from a bottle, and finally managed to pull an entire bottle from an erlenmeyer while keeping it intact. It can even hold water! - **Drying** Prepare for a wet mess. The alginate keeps releasing water for a long time, so your samples will be bathing in a puddle for a while when drying. I moved them onto kitchen paper on top of baking paper to protect the floor they were on. The constant release of water will continue to stain EVERYTHING if you use food coloring in the alginate. The red food coloring we used was everywhere all of a sudden if you don't pay attention. The casts go from voluptuous shapes to rather wrinkly shrunken samples. Except when you cast more voluminous sphere-like blobs (such as this white one that I imprinted with a wooden textile stamp). But this will probably change as it continues to dry, it still feels cold and wet. To be continued in the future. The red blobs that look like intestines and stomachs were very plum in the beginning but dried up a lot and became hard and rigid eventually. +*Let's call it an honest mess. And a wet one at that, Loes Bogers, 2019.* -**Ingredients alginate biofoil #1:** +###**Ingredients alginate biofoil #1:** * 12.5g alginate * 30g glycerine @@ -355,27 +371,19 @@ The casts go from voluptuous shapes to rather wrinkly shrunken samples. Except w * additive: chinese black ink (soot). *For the curing agent:* + * 10 ml sodium chloride hydrate * 100 ml water This shrinks a lot but can be cast into thin sheets. This black beauty was so nice! When casted thinly it is remains transparent but the thicker samples are fully opque and gorgeous. Sphere-like blobs keep a bit of shine. The others just turn raisin. -*Some samples using biofoil #1, Loes Bogers, 2019* +*Some samples using biofoil #1 (except the white blob, thats alginate bioplastic, recipe #3), dried for 5 days, Loes Bogers, 2019* I tried combining a round blob of black beauty with some of the alkanet foil by pressing the lighter drops into the black blob. They were attached with a thin string that broke quickly. But the blob got a very nice organic voluptuous shape with holes. I saw a button in it! I also tried merging some black strings with alkanet but it was a hot mess that came aparts so quick. Rinsing and drying well before trying to do this is probably a better idea but I didn't get to it. -**Additives used:** - -* food coloring (red) \> *stain alert!!* -* soot ink (black) -* acrylic paint (bronze metallic and blue/green colors) -* natural ink: alkanet (faded purple) -* and then I also experimented a bit with putting food coloring in the dye bath (red and yellow, leaving subtle hues on the lighter opaque plastics). - - -**Ingredients alginate biofoil #2:** +###**Ingredients alginate biofoil #2:** * 8g alginate * 20g glycerine @@ -383,57 +391,64 @@ I also tried merging some black strings with alkanet but it was a hot mess that * additives: bronze metallic acrylic paint and natural alkanet ink *For the curing agent:* + * 10 ml sodium chloride hydrate * 100 ml water This is a thicker, less liquid recipe that however also shrinks loads. The alkanet gave a very subtle hue. The bronze metallic acrylic gave a beautiful shine where others faded and got matte as they dried. -*Some samples using biofoil #2, Loes Bogers, 2019* +*Some samples using biofoil #2, Loes Bogers, 2019* -**Ingredients alginate bio*plastic* #3:** +###**Ingredients alginate bio*plastic* #3:** * 12g alginate * 20g glycerine * 10g sunflower oil (both for elasticity and as filler to prevent shrinkage) * 200 ml water -* colorants: red food coloring and blue acrylic paint as colorants. We also made a batch without any colorants (turned yellowish transparent). +* colorants: red food coloring and blue acrylic paint as colorants. * additives: I made one batch with ground egg shells, that I also dyed with avocado/water ink. *For the curing agent:* + * 10 ml sodium chloride hydrate * 100 ml water -For thicker sheet foils. Shrank quite a bit but it seems pretty strong. The red food coloring was not mixed very evenly, which gave nice gradients! It also kept releasing the colorant with the water, leaving stains on everything when drying. The blue acrylic paint did not stain during the drying process. +For thicker sheet foils. Shrank quite a bit but it seems pretty strong. The red food coloring was not mixed very evenly, which gave nice gradients but they faded als the material dried and shrank, which it did a lot. It also kept releasing the colorant with the water, leaving stains on everything when drying. The blue acrylic paint did not stain during the drying process. -*Some samples using bio**plastic** #3, Loes Bogers, 2019* +*Some samples using bioplastic #3, dried for 5 days, Loes Bogers, 2019* -The transparent foil mix worked quite beautifully for me. I casted onto ridged silicon and textured surfaces that left a beautiful imprint also after shrinking. It turned very rigid and strong. The textures play very nicely with the light. +One nice experiment was a thick blob I made that I imprinted an image onto using a wooden stamp (I sprayed the stamp, not the mixture). It is still curing but very voluptuous and the definition of the imprint holds quite well. This also shrank a lot but didn't turn raisin. I think sphere-like shapes create a kind of tension so they don't shrivel as much. -*Transparent samples with texture, bio**plastic** #3, Loes Bogers, 2019* +*White blob imprinted with wooden stamp after 5 days of drying, Loes Bogers, 2019* -One nice experiment was a thick blob I made that I imprinted an image onto using a wooden stamp (I sprayed the stamp, not the mixture). It is still curing but very voluptuous and the definition of the imprint holds quite well. +I also dropped a blob into some calcium chloride that I'd colored using some food coloring in red and yellow. The red was very subtle and disappeared, but the yellow held quite well. You can see it in the background of the previous picture. It could be nice to create some depth in coloring by using different dyes in the alginate mixture and in the calcium bath. To be continued. -*White blob imprinted with wooden stamp, Loes Bogers, 2019* +**Adding egg shells as a filler** -I also dropped a blob into some calcium chloride that I'd colored using some food coloring in red and yellow. The red was very subtle and disappeared, but the yellow held quite well. It could be nice to create some depth in coloring by using different dyes in the alginate mixture and in the calcium bath. To be continued. +Lastly, I used a bit of the white mixture and added a bit of egg shell powder as a filler because I was kind of hoping to make something that wouldn't totally shrivel. I left some natural and added some avocado and water ink to the other (this one started to cure a bit in the mixing pot, perhaps this is a bit too alkaline already?). -*Drop cured in a yellow bath using bio**plastic** #3, Loes Bogers, 2019* +The flat grayish sample (avo colored) is very strong and flexible. You can pull at it pretty hard and it gives a little but doesn't break easily. The other two brownish ones get their color from the egg shells (that came from slightly brown eggs). These have a bit more volume and are more sphere like. They're still cold and moist squishy pillows. They all shrank a lot but way less than all the alginate plastics without fillers. I'm going to start an eggshell business. -Lastly, I used a bit of the white mixture and added a bit of egg shell powder as a filler. I left some natural and added some avocado and water ink to the other (this one started to cure a bit in the mixing pot, perhaps this is a bit too alkaline already?). +*Alginate bioplastic with egg shell powder as a filler (on the left: egg shell foam), after 5 days of drying, Loes Bogers, 2019.* -The flat grayish sample (avo colored) is very strong and flexible. You can pull at it pretty hard and it gives a little but doesn't break easily. The other two brownish ones get their color from the egg shells (that came from slightly brown eggs). These have a bit more volume and are more sphere like. They're still cold and moist squishy pillows. They all shrank a lot but way less than all the alginate plastics without fillers. I'm going to start an eggshell business. +**Bonus batch #0** +There were also left overs from a very liquid bonus batch Cecilia had made to stiffen and form textile flowers. I think it was similar to the first recipe but with more water. -**Bonus batch #0** +I loved playing with this batch! I made beauuuuutiful temporary pearl necklaces. Sadly they shrank into raisin strings before I could take a picture to pretend this could actually be a product ;) Because this one was very liquid it was also very agile and formed more uneven shapes. Of course the water also makes it shrink. If these pearls could last an evening I'd wear them though. -There were also left overs from a very liquid bonus batch Cecilia had made to stiffen and form textile flowers. I think it was similar to the first recipe but with more water. +*Some samples using biofoil #0: pearls to raisins, Loes Bogers, 2019* -*Some samples using biofoil #0, Loes Bogers, 2019* +**Diary of a leftover queen** -I loved playing with this batch! I made beauuuuutiful temporary pearl necklaces. Sadly they shrank into raisin strings before I could take a picture to pretend this could actually be a product ;) Because this one was very liquid it was also very agile and formed more uneven shapes. Of course the water also makes it shrink. If these pearls could last an evening I'd wear them though. +At a certain point I got a bit lost. I wasn't so sure what I wanted from this material. I kind of like the process but was a bit steerless. We also got to a point where we ran out of mixture so I'd have to decide to make more (without knowing what to do, or just leave it at this). My last move was just going through the lab and cleaning our literally every mixing jar and seeing what that would lead to. +*Harvesting leftovers from all the mixing jars, Loes Bogers, 2019* +I harvested some lovely organlike bits by scraping leftovers out with my gloved finger (covered in curing agent). I also rescued a beautiful thin piece of black film from a bottle, and finally managed to pull an entire bottle from an erlenmeyer while keeping it intact. It can even hold water! + +<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Au-Cp7WKxxM?rel=0&showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> ###Alginate findings and results @@ -441,7 +456,7 @@ I loved playing with this batch! I made beauuuuutiful temporary pearl necklaces. I was a bit unsuccessful in making sheets so played more with blobs and things. There's a sweet spot in the curing process where I started piercing some samples to see if I could use them as buttons, sequins, beads etcetera. If you do this too early the goo will still come out, and if you wait too long the plastic is already too hard. When it's still a bit squishy you can poke it with a needle, or hand stitch with some thread, maybe even machine stitch. Very satisfying, and I think there's some opportunities here for manipulating the plastic using all sorts of techniques. Perhaps you could construct garments halfway through and let them dry up and shapeshift into unexpected results. -[*A button and pendants with organic shapes, hand stitched flat sheet, Loes Bogers, 2019*] +*A button and earring drop, hand stitched flat sheet, Loes Bogers, 2019* ##Growing Mycelium or: surfing the Wood Wide Web @@ -472,6 +487,8 @@ Mycelium likes food waste, mostly fiberous stuff, like coffee, vegetables, nutri Although this was listed under a recipe for vegan leather. It's not strictly vegan depending on your definition. The peptone is enzymatic digest from fresh beef meat. Peptone is dusty! Take care not to breath it in. Especially if you are a vegetarian or vegan. +*Peptone for meatlovers, Loes Bogers, 2019* + **Mycelium types alive at our lab** * tempeh @@ -482,25 +499,33 @@ In inoculated some gray oyster onto coffee grounds and some schizo (grown into a A clean mycelium tends to be more white when growing it. After plasticizing and drying in the oven it will be brownish. -**Procedure** +*Mycelium research by Maud and Sara, image by Loes Bogers, 2019* + +**Plating and inoculating** We mixed all ingredients for the broth and poured it into large petri dishes that we sterilized in the pressure cooker with the food inside. With autoclave tape of course. We then inoculated the mycelium inside a sterile bubble (see biochrome week about biolab basics). Bits of a square cm of the surface is fine. Put 2 bits into a small petri dish, or 4 or more into a larger one. Trying to only take bits of mycelium and not take whole chunks of agar was my challenge that day. Also try not to drown the mycelium in the broth by moving it around too much. +*Meanwhile, in the sterile bubble...Loes Bogers, 2019* + We'll see how it turns out. After a week you can see if it's growing. After two weeks it's probably finished its food and you can add more. Seal with parafilm and incubate for 5-10 days. You can add more food with a sterile syringe (squeeze it underneath the mycelium) after 5-10 days to continue growing it. + + **Plasticizing** Harvest the mycelium by taking it out of the broth and laying it on top of some plastic film. Pour a bit of glycerine (or other elasticizer on) and rub it in on both sides. Press it if it's not flat. Then leave it for 24-48 hours to let the glycerine do its work. +<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rb4FfcJf_QI?rel=0&showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> + **Drying** -Rinse off the plasticizer and let it dry in the oven at 90-150 degrees celcius for several hours. And you might just be rewarded with a beautiful brandy colored fleather patch, suede-like and soft, hmmmm. -![]()*Example of mycelium fleather grown by Maud and Sara, 2019* +Rinse off the plasticizer and let it dry in the oven at 90-150 degrees celcius for several hours. And you might just be rewarded with a beautiful brandy colored fleather patch, suede-like and soft, hmmmm. +*Mycelium leather grown by Maud and Sara at Textile lab Amsterdam, photo by Loes Bogers, 2019* ##References and inspiration from lecture diff --git a/docs/images/w06_myceliumresearch.jpg b/docs/images/w06_myceliumresearch.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..3d46857748c1ca60214e19ea4e906710106cbef5 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/w06_myceliumresearch.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk04_folding.gif b/docs/images/wk04_folding.gif deleted file mode 100644 index d7ba3d9145819b3706677bb6355d4f310bc331fa..0000000000000000000000000000000000000000 Binary files a/docs/images/wk04_folding.gif and /dev/null differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk06_agarfoil.jpg b/docs/images/wk06_agarfoil.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..5363b3553aceff8ccd813b7bd113bddba3a15f7c Binary files /dev/null and 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