diff --git a/docs/projects/03make.md b/docs/projects/03make.md index ee44c73c3a02a221d8d951fb5aa0bd40fd3a0c4a..cb461fe807dda6ccb62643d2d6d606b12c0e9fde 100644 --- a/docs/projects/03make.md +++ b/docs/projects/03make.md @@ -57,6 +57,7 @@ Word to the wise: get a couple of extras of each component, in case you break / * [LM386](http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm386.pdf) preamplifier IC * [CD4069](http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/cd4069ub.pdf) logic IC * IC sockets: 2 x 14 pin, 1 x 16 pin, 1 x 8 pin +* 2 diodes * 9V battery clip * 9V battery (get a few!) * 3.5mm jack socket @@ -156,42 +157,39 @@ I used press-on snaps to connect the modules together. You could also use sew-on # Modules +Here's some specific information for each module. In the schematics below, the usual electronics convention - red = power (+), black = ground (-) - is used. Other than that, different colours are used to make the circuits easier to understand, and don't hold any specific meaning. ## Power The simplest module!  -* Cut a piece of fabric that's (dimensions?) - -diagram... - +* Cut a piece of fabric that's the same length as your 9V battery, and wide enough to cover the top and sides of the battery- a stretchy material works well here, as you can make it super tight so that the battery holds in securely. +* Stitch the fabric onto the grid to make a little pocket for the battery. * Sew power, ground and signal traces with conductive thread - * Sew the battery wires down, connect them to power and ground traces ## Amp  -The jack socket on the Amplifier module is soldered on. For an earlier prototype version I sewed the jack socket in place, but wasn't happy with how secure it was. +The jack socket on the Amplifier module has wires soldered onto it, which are then sewn into the circuit. For an earlier prototype version I sewed the jack socket in place with conductive thread, but wasn't happy with how secure / reliable it was. * Sew the circuit as in the diagram, except for the jack -* Solder wires to the jack socket -* Cover them with heat shrink -* Strip the ends of the wire and sew on +* Cut 3 5cm (ish) pieces of stranded wire, strip both ends, and solder one end of each to the terminals on the jack socket. I used a jack socket with three terminals (left, right, ground) - you'll need to figure out which is which for the one you're using. +* Once soldered, slide some heat shrink onto each wire and heat it with a heat gun or lighter until it shrinks. This is to protect the wires from short-circuiting +* Use a pliers to twist the free ends of the wire and sew them as in the schematic above (ground = black, left/right = blue) ## Volume  +The volume module is pretty straight-forward to assemble, but one thing I noticed was that when making sewn connections between conductive thread and the resistive fabric from Eeontex, you need to make sure you've sewn several tight stitches, otherwise the connection will be unreliable. Make sure to check continuity with a multimeter. ## Wendy -  -* test after first oscillator -* resistive strip can be replaced with actual resistor +The Wendy module is the most complex, which means you should test every trace after you've sewn it! the strip of resistive material can be replaced with a 10k resistor if needed. ## Ada @@ -199,11 +197,11 @@ The jack socket on the Amplifier module is soldered on. For an earlier prototype Minimal sewing for this module! -* 15mm wide strips of fabric are woven into a fabric grid. +* 15mm wide strips of fabric are woven into a fabric grid. * Two 15mm wide strips of conductive fabric (Eeontex piezoresistive) are placed on either side. -* Sew the conductive thread traces +* Sew conductive thread traces from the snaps to either side of the resistive fabric. -Eeontex is super hard to get a hold of now, so you can substitute other conductive fabrics +Eeontex is super hard to get a hold of now, so you can substitute other conductive fabrics - they should work just fine. ## Maryam @@ -215,21 +213,28 @@ This module was created using parametric design (Grasshopper for Rhino), and sew * The conductive thread is used as the bottom thread in the embroidery machine, because using it as the top thread results in serious tangles. This means you need to put the fabric in the embroidery hoop bottom-side up, as we still need the conductive thread to be on the top of the module. * I did some experiments and adjusted the machine tension until I got clean, neat stitches that weren't too loose on either the top or bottom of the fabric. +The width of the module is narrower than the embroidery hoop of the machine we have at TextileLab Amsterdam, so here's what I did: + +* Placed a larger piece of fabric in the embroidery hoop +* Embroidered hte design (14cm x 14cm) +* Removed from fabric from the hoop, and used a ruler and scissors to cut out a 15cm x 30cm rectangle +* Hand sewed a line of stitches from one side of the pattern to the other end of the rectangle, and applied snaps. + ## Daphne  This module is a bit of a work in progress - it kind of works but it's not super reliable! -* Cut, or laser cut, resistive fabric strips (of what lengths?) -* Weave them in as shown in the diagram -* Sew conductive traces +* I hand cut some 3mm wide strips of Eeontex resistive fabric, but you could also laser cut this +* Longer and shorter strips are woven into the grid as shown in the diagram +* A couple of lines of conductive thread are added to connect everything together ## Delia  - +For this module, follow the general instructions in the 'sewing circuits' section, and make sure to test your conductive stitches as you go along! ## Anni  @@ -257,6 +262,9 @@ This module was made by hand, but you could also do some of the steps with a las ## Hedy  +Follow the general advice in the 'Sewing Circuits' section to complete the Hedy module. + + # Files and materials diff --git a/docs/projects/04hack.md b/docs/projects/04hack.md index b68f0ad884b3dd7db86feac7028f16b52baf10f3..b4359bdec4c0d9104ea561d637d46ddce7876a7b 100644 --- a/docs/projects/04hack.md +++ b/docs/projects/04hack.md @@ -49,6 +49,6 @@ Here are some of the many many things that you could try: # Share your hacks -If you do make a version of Stitch Synth, or are inspired by it to make your own soft synth, please share it and let me know! Share it on Instagram or Twitter using the tag #stitchsynth, or document it with a tutorial on [Instructables](https://www.instructables.com) +If you do make a version of Stitch Synth, or are inspired by it to make your own soft synth, please share it and let me know! Share it on Instagram or Twitter using the tag #stitchsynth, or document it with a tutorial on [Instructables](https://www.instructables.com). <iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/g0jZXv94OHEdx5RHm4" width="480" height="288" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="https://giphy.com/gifs/clapforcrap-clapping-sounds-megaphone-g0jZXv94OHEdx5RHm4">via GIPHY</a></p> \ No newline at end of file