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#4. Computer controlled cutting
### The lasercutter
The machine :
Chinese Laser Cutter CO2 model painted and rebranded under MlLaser name. It's a 150 Watt CO2 Tube.
![](../images/week04/machine.JPG)
Before going into the details of what the machine is made up of, I would like to come back to a few important points.
Laser cutting is a manufacturing process in which material is cut using a large amount of energy generated by a laser and concentrated on a very small area. By focusing a laser beam, the temperature of a small area of material can be raised until it vaporises. The power of a laser varies according to the material to be cut and its thickness. This process allows a precise, clean and fast cutting of many materials.
The machine emits a large amount of energy, which generates a significant heat source. The machine may catch fire, so it is mandatory to stay in front of the machine when it is in use.
 The smoke emitted from the machine may be toxic, so it is important to check the properties of its materials before using it in the machine.
What the laser machine consists of :
- A **CO2 laser tube**, when an electric current passes through it, emits a specific light.
- A **cooling system**, to lower the temperature of the CO2 laser tube.
- A **aspiration system**, to evacuate the fumes created during the cutting process to the outside.
- A **propelled air system** that blows in front of the laser lens to prevent smoke, dust or other contaminants from obstructing the laser's path.
- **Mirror sets** to reflect the light sent to the back of the machine.
#### How the laser cutter works at AgriLab :
As described above, the laser cutter at AgriLab is a Chinese Laser Cutter CO2 model painted and rebranded under MlLaser name. It's a 150 Watt CO2 Tube.
The tube at the rear of the machine will create light under the influence of electricity. This light will be reflected by mirrors at the ends of the machine to the laser lens. The purpose of the lens is to concentrate all the light energy into a single point. This phenomenon makes it possible to have a large amount of energy on one and the same point.
![](../images/week04/miror.jpg)
*The mirrors are surrounded in red*
A water cooling system regulates the temperature of the CO2 tube. The reactions that take place in the CO2 tube give off a large amount of heat. In order for the system to work properly, it is necessary to cool the whole system to avoid any risk of overheating and deterioration of the material. The ideal temperature is 22°C
![](../images/week04/cooler.JPG)
A fume extraction system is present on the machine. To cut, the machine heats up extremely strongly at one point, this burns and thus generates smoke. It is therefore very important to extract these fumes to the outside to protect the health of the user and those around him.
![](../images/week04/aspiro.JPG)
A small compressor is placed near the machine to send pulsed air to the laser lens. This expels any smoke or dust that may be in front of the lens and alter the laser beam.
![](../images/week04/compresseur.JPG)
Here are the different elements connected to the machine.
![](../images/week04/branchement.jpg)
### Machine safety
The machine has a safety device, a position sensor is placed on the machine frame. This sensor makes it possible not to start cutting if the protective cover is opened.
![Emergency stop button](../images/week04/laser_6.jpg)
Basic safety rules:
1. Keep a power/speed ratio according to the material.
2. Use safe materials.
3. Work under supervision of the instructors.
4. Never open the lid while the machine is working.
5. Never put you or something between the path of the mirrors of the machine.
6. Identify the location of the extinguisher.
7. Localize the emergency stop button.
8. If possible use a wet fabric to extinguish small fires before use the extinguisher.
9. Never look directly to the laser.
10. Check the air extractor and liquid cooling systems, both should be working properly.
11. Stay watching the process carefully, don't turn back, because sometimes fires spread quickly.
12. Keep a safe distance area.
13. Be aware of the fumes.
### How to use the machine :
| Steps | Comments | Illustrations |
| ----- | :------: | :------------:|
| 1 | **Turn on the machine and the computer**. Simply turn the safety key and press the Start button on the computer. | ![](../images/week04/machine.JPG) |
| 2 | **Place your object cut out and focus**. For our part, simply place the laser over the material with the arrows. Then press the "Z" touch button and lower the plate with the arrows. Place a metal plate on your material and below the nozzle. Press the "Datum" button for the machine to focus automatically. | ![](../images/week04/z.jpg) |
| 3 | **Open LaserCut 6.1** on the computer and import your file. | ![](../images/week04/import1.jpg) ![](../images/week04/importer2.jpg) |
| 4 | **Set up your layers** by adding colours to your vectors | ![](../images/week04/layer.jpg) |
| 5 | **Set up your vector**. Double click on your layer and enter the values for the desired speed and power. | ![](../images/week04/setting.jpg) |
| 6 | **Save your design** and send it to the machine | ![](../images/week04/enregistrer.jpg) |
| 7 | **Switch on the fume extractor and close the cover.** | |
| 8 | **Start cutting** | |
### Power and Speed
Power refers to the output energy of the laser, and speed to the speed (and acceleration) of the cart where the laser is mounted.
There's an important relationship between the laser power output, the velocity and the material to cut (and surface of it).
For cutting a piece of wood and a paper sheet, we shouldn't use the same settings, the reason is *Combustion*.
There are multiple things than can change the effects of the laser in the material, for example humidity and the molecular structure of it.
For that is very difficult to have a standardized table for every kind of material, for this reason it's a very important task for any Fab Lab to test every type of available material approved and safe for use in the laser cut.
We made individually multiple trials for the settings to understand the functions and effects of power and speed in the process of cutting and engraving.
![Try one.](../images/week04/laser_1.jpg)
This is a proposed compact test template.
![Test template.](../images/week04/laser_12.jpg)
### Kerf
One of the group asignement was to caracterize the laser cutter and more specially the kerf. To do the kerf we had the idea to cut a square in the woodand then do multiple slices in it. I means that the laser will do many rectangles in the wood many times and we can have an average of the length of the laser. First we cut a piece of wood and mesure it.
![](../images/week04/ph1g.jpg)
![](../images/week04/ph2g.jpg)
Then we cut it in different part with straight lines. We set the laser cutter with a power at 85 and a speed at 40. We got these values in the previous test.
And finally we mesure the total size of the remainers slices. We mesure wuth the caliper.
![](../images/week04/ph3g.jpg)
We did again with the picometer tool but with a smaller piece of wood to fit it in the tool. We mesure it also with the caliper.
![](../images/week04/ph4g.jpg)
![](../images/week04/ph5g.jpg)
Here is the table of our different results
| Try | Size before the slices | Size after the slices | Number of slices | Average of the kerf |
|-----|------------------------|----------------------|------------------|---------------------|
| 1 caliper | 98.0 mm | 95.1 mm | 10 | 0.29 mm |
| 2 mircometer tool | 21.12 mm | 19.88 mm | 5 | 0.248 mm |
| 3 caliper | 20.8 mm | 19.8 mm | 5 | 0.2 mm |
So when we do an avergage of these values, we can say that the kerf is 0.246 mm.
### Joint testing
For the group assignment we carried out a few joint tests. We decided to make the same joints on different materials to see the possible differences. So Theo made the plans on [Fusion360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview?term=1-YEAR&support=null). Then we decided to do it on 3.9mm thick cardboard, 2.5mm thick Plexiglas and 3mm thick mdf wood.
![](../images/week04/plantheo.jpg)
![](../images/week04/total.JPG)
Here are our conclusions:
On the cardboard, the simple press-fit and chamfer works very well and is very accurate. For nesting such as flexure or snap, the cardboard is too sensitive to deformation. Our tests were not conclusive for these nests.
![](../images/week04/carton.JPG)
On the plexiglass our main problem was the kerf.We found that our plexiglass parts were more openwork than expected. This is due to the laser melting the material too much. In addition, we can see that the flexure nesting has been subjected to too much heat. The cutting process has deformed the whole assembly due to excess heat. Concerning the snap nesting, it is not at all adapted to plexiglass. In both cases, our parts broke, which is explained by the fact that Plexiglas does not accept a large deformation.
![](../images/week04/plexi.JPG)
![](../images/week04/fail.jpg)
MDF is the material that best fits all the joints we have tested. It fits perfectly.
![](../images/week04/mdf.JPG)
### Focus test
In a group we carried out tests to find out the ideal focus for the machine. Our machine has the option of autofocus, which automatically adjusts itself according to the thickness of the material.
#### What is the interest of the focus?
The laser tube located at the rear of the machine emits a wide stream of light that must be channeled to a single point. This is achieved by using a convex lens. A convex lens refocuses the light at a single point (see photo opposite). In order to concentrate as much energy as possible on a small area, it is therefore necessary to focus. Focus is the action of adjusting the height of the material so that it is at the point of convergence of all the light beams.
![](../images/week04/lent.jpg)
Our machine make autofocus, but for the exercise we decided to focus manually. To do this we removed the honeycomb and positioned a sheet of paper on wood. We did the autofocus and measured the distance between the paper and the top of the lens. We made a laser dot to visualize the point of impact and its diameter. Then we moved around and lowered the plate.
Then we made several laser points by moving the plate up.
![](../images/week04/debut.jpg)
![](../images/week04/distance.jpg)
Here are our results:
![](../images/week04/test2.jpg)
![](../images/week04/resultats.jpg)
You can see that the machine's autofocus is set correctly. Because it is at this distance that the laser achieves the smallest point.
#4. Computer controlled cutting
# 4. Computer controlled cutting
### The lasercutter
......
......@@ -78,7 +78,7 @@ Test of the printer Creality ender 5 plus.
![](../images/week06/30.jpg)
There is two kind of system, the extruder system with a tube, named Bowden and the direct drive system, without tube.
There is two kind of system, the extruder system with a tube, named Bowden and the direct drive system, without tube.
Here is the Bowden system
......@@ -94,7 +94,7 @@ The set of the height of the bed depends on the device. The creality cr10 is ful
![](../images/week06/38.jpg)
To change the filament on the creality, we need to warm the nozzle. When it is warm, we remove the filament, then we trap the new filament and put it in the sensor, we push it straight with the hand, wait it to get out then click on "feed" on the device to bring it well.
To change the filament on the creality, we need to warm the nozzle. When it is warm, we remove the filament, then we trap the new filament and put it in the sensor, we push it straight with the hand, wait it to get out then click on "feed" on the device to bring it well.
![](../images/week06/37.jpg)
......@@ -135,11 +135,11 @@ Here is the main settings of the printing :
- build plate temperature: 60°
- build plate adhesion type: brim
The result is pretty good at the end, I just have to remove the support.
The result is pretty good at the end, I just have to remove the support.
![](../images/week06/8.jpg)
First I tried with ultrasonic cutter but it melt my shape.
First I tried with ultrasonic cutter but it melt my shape.
<!--// photo-->
......@@ -213,7 +213,7 @@ For the hole test, rectangles the measures are really good
All the measure depends also of the measurement accuracy.
For the angles, from 50 degrees, we start to see really the lines of plastic printed.
For the angles, from 50 degrees, we start to see really the lines of plastic printed.
![](../images/week06/23.jpg)
......@@ -223,7 +223,7 @@ We can see that the bridges pitch over 15 mm.
For the overhang test, after 50° we really start to see the lines of plastic printed.
<!-- //
<!-- //
Don’t print the letters, why ?
Do on z axes
......@@ -238,7 +238,7 @@ Les rectangles c’est pour tester xyz
Bridges pitch over 15 mm
-->
## Description of Ultimaker 3 Extended
## Description of Ultimaker 3 Extended
![](../images/Week6/machine.jpg)
......@@ -246,7 +246,7 @@ The Ultimaker 3 Extended 3D printer is the large format version of the Ultimaker
| | Device |
| ----- | :------: |
| **Designation** | Ultimaker 3 extended |
| **Designation** | Ultimaker 3 extended |
| **Computer interface** | USB, Wifi, Ethernet |
**Print head** | 2 heads|
**Printing speed** | 300 mm/s |
......@@ -291,7 +291,7 @@ Printing time: 5h 28 min
| Test | Comments |
| ----- | :------: |
| **External diameters** | 9.8 mm instead of 10 mm, 7.8 mm instead of 8 mm, 5.8 mm instead of 6 mm, 3.8 mm instead of 4 mm |
| **External diameters** | 9.8 mm instead of 10 mm, 7.8 mm instead of 8 mm, 5.8 mm instead of 6 mm, 3.8 mm instead of 4 mm |
| **Inner hole** | 7.5 mm instead of 8 mm, 5.5 mm instead of 6 mm |
**Angles** | No more than 45°|
**Bridge** | Pitch over 15 mm |
......@@ -308,6 +308,51 @@ We can see that the Ultimaker 3 Extended is a machine that is quite accurate. We
![](../images/Week6/creality_cr10s5_agrilab.jpg)
Tech specs:
- General Specifications
- Technology: Fused deposition modeling (FDM)
- Year: 2019
- Assembly: Partially assembled
- Mechanical arrangement: Cartesian XY-head
- Manufacturer: Creality
- 3D Printer Properties
- Build volume: 500 x 500 x 500 mm
- Feeder system: Bowden
- Print head: Single nozzle
- Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
- Max. hot end temperature: 260 ℃
- Max. heated bed temperature: 60 ℃
- Print bed material: Glass
- Frame: Aluminum
- Bed leveling: Manual
- Connectivity: SD card, USB
- Print recovery: Yes
- Filament sensor: Yes
- Camera: No
- Materials
- Filament diameter: 1.75 mm
- Third-party filament: Yes
- Filament materials: Consumer materials (PLA, ABS, PETG, Flexibles)
- Software
- Recommended slicer: Cura, Simplify3D, Repetier-Host
- Operating system: Windows, Mac OSX, Linux
- File types: STL, OBJ, AMF
- Dimensions and Weight
- Frame dimensions: 690 x 800 x 715 mm
- Weight: 14.6 kg
### Small cubes test:
![](../images/Week6/cubes.jpg)
......@@ -366,7 +411,7 @@ Cube 3 (Success):
First try(Failed):
![](../images/Week6/cube_1.jpg)
![](../images/Week6/sissue_1.jpg)
**Parameters:**
......@@ -384,9 +429,6 @@ First try(Failed):
Second try(Failed):
![](../images/Week6/cube_3.jpg)
**Parameters:**
| Parameter | Value |
......@@ -402,7 +444,7 @@ Second try(Failed):
Third try(Success):
![](../images/Week6/issue_1.jpg)
![](../images/Week6/cube_1.jpg)
**Parameters:**
......@@ -428,12 +470,12 @@ Checklist:
3. Disable steppers.
3. Move the cart to the closest corner of the build plate.
4. Using a small piece of normal bond paper, check the Z axis distance to the plate by passing through the nozzle and the build platform.
5. If you feel the paper passing too tight, lose the Z axis bolt, until the paper passes throughfully.
5. If you feel the paper passing too tight, lose the Z axis bolt, until the paper passes thoroughly.
6. Move to the next corner and repeat the steps 3 to 5.
7. Once all the corners are aadjusted move to the center.
7. Once all the corners are adjusted move to the center.
8. Enable steppers again and make a test print.
9. If the print sticks to the printing bed the calibration was successful.
10. If not, repeat the process, until it's succesfull.
10. If not, repeat the process, until it's successful.
......@@ -447,7 +489,7 @@ When the machine Z axis is far from the build plate it's very likely that the pr
Warp:
When the build plate is too cold, the plastic shrinks quikly and the difference of contraction between the first layers and the current ones it makes the piece to warp and detatch to the build plate.
When the build plate is too cold, the plastic shrinks quickly and the difference of contraction between the first layers and the current ones it makes the piece to warp and detach to the build plate.
Elephant feet:
......@@ -458,4 +500,3 @@ When the Z axis is too close to the bed, the fused filament can make a bigger ba
Melted points:
When the temperature it's too high and the speed it's too slow, the filament will look very low detailed and melted looking.
This diff is collapsed.
......@@ -219,11 +219,11 @@ And he also tried to flash the Arduino board with the shield for CNC.
## Peristaltic pump
I personally worked on the system to make the pump bring the pancake paste to the warming plate. For the machine we built, I worked on the peristaltic pump. First I needed to make the pump turn in one way and an other way to have a retract of the paste of pancake inside the tube. The first step was to find how to plug the pump to an arduino board to flash it.
I personally worked on the system to make the pump bring the pancake paste to the warming plate. For the machine we built, I worked on the peristaltic pump. First I needed to make the pump turn in one way and an other way to have a retract of the paste of pancake inside the tube. The first step was to find how to plug the pump to an arduino board to flash it.
![](../images/week10/w1020.jpg)
The pump is made of ball bearings and silicone pipe. It is working with 12V current and 2A. The motor is a DC motor. In AgriLab the instructors ordered for us some H-bridges for the motors. I looked on internet how to wire the motor of the pump with that and on Arduino and I found [this website on how to use H-bridge with a L298N motor](https://arduino.blaisepascal.fr/pont-en-h-l298n/).
The pump is made of ball bearings and silicone pipe. It is working with 12V current and 2A. The motor is a DC motor. In AgriLab the instructors ordered for us some H-bridges for the motors. I looked on internet how to wire the motor of the pump with that and on Arduino and I found [this website on how to use H-bridge with a L298N motor](https://arduino.blaisepascal.fr/pont-en-h-l298n/).
This schematic were very useful to know where to plug what. //schematic
......@@ -235,13 +235,13 @@ The pump is powered with an AC/DC electric power supply 12V.
Step by step, I wrote the code to make the pump turn. The program is taking a value written in the serial monitor and send it to the motor as the speed. The turning side of the motor depend on the sign of the number (positives numbers will turn in one directon, negatives numbers will turn in another one).
Here is the wiring of the pump I made:
Here is the wiring of the pump I made:
![](../images/week10/w1018.jpg)
![](../images/week10/w1019.jpg)
Here is the code I wrote. I used the IDE [Visual Studio Code](https://code.visualstudio.com/) I discovered during [a previous week](http://fabacademy.org/2021/labs/agrilab/students/elina-nguyen-cadoret/assignments/week09/#visual-studio-code). First there is the constants, the pins where the wires are plugged. In the setup function, I set the pins as outputs. Then I wrote a function for the movement, with two variables, the speed and the direction. And in the loop I first collect the value of the speed that is set, then transform it a bit in order to make it nice for the motor.
Here is the code I wrote. I used the IDE [Visual Studio Code](https://code.visualstudio.com/) I discovered during [a previous week](http://fabacademy.org/2021/labs/agrilab/students/elina-nguyen-cadoret/assignments/week09/#visual-studio-code). First there is the constants, the pins where the wires are plugged. In the setup function, I set the pins as outputs. Then I wrote a function for the movement, with two variables, the speed and the direction. And in the loop I first collect the value of the speed that is set, then transform it a bit in order to make it nice for the motor.
![](../images/week10/cap4.jpg)
......@@ -307,7 +307,7 @@ void loop() {
digitalWrite(in1, LOW);
digitalWrite(in2, LOW);
}
}
}
}
```
......@@ -329,7 +329,7 @@ I made a small test with this consistency of dough but it is too liquid, the flo
![](../images/week10/w101.jpg)
So I made different paste with different viscosity, the first one is the control sample, with initial recipe.
So I made different paste with different viscosity, the first one is the control sample, with initial recipe.
![](../images/week10/w102.jpg)
......@@ -337,13 +337,13 @@ The second one has 25% more flour, and the third one has 50% more flour. We can
<video controls="true" allowfullscrenn="true" width="50%">
<source src="../../video/week10/vid3.mp4" type="video/mp4">
</video>
</video>
To make the extruder I assembled some tubes from the largest to the smallest we could find. The biggest one is 7.6 mm, the second is 5.4 mm, the third one is 3.5 mm,a nd the last one is that small iI wasn't able to measure it with the calliper.
![](../images/week10/w103.jpg)
I also tested the different tube with the different viscosity of the paste.
I also tested the different tube with the different viscosity of the paste.
<!--// video de tous les tests-->
......@@ -355,11 +355,11 @@ We finally decided to take the consitency of the second dough, with 25% more flo
## Improving the control of the pump with a joystick
After making the pump turning according to some values, I wanted to add an input, a joystick to control the speed of the pump. I searched on internet how to use a potential meter and found this very useful [website on how to control a potential meter with Arduino](https://www.mataucarre.fr/index.php/2019/03/09/utiliser-un-potentiometre-avec-un-arduino/). There is a picture of the wiring and how to control a LED with a potential meter.
After making the pump turning according to some values, I wanted to add an input, a joystick to control the speed of the pump. I searched on internet how to use a potential meter and found this very useful [website on how to control a potential meter with Arduino](https://www.mataucarre.fr/index.php/2019/03/09/utiliser-un-potentiometre-avec-un-arduino/). There is a picture of the wiring and how to control a LED with a potential meter.
![](../images/week10/cap1.jpg)
I apply this to my motor of the pump.
I apply this to my motor of the pump.
To understand how a potential meter is working I just copied the code and watch the values of the potential meter printed on the serial monitor.
......@@ -369,7 +369,7 @@ To plug everything on the Arduino board I checked [this website with H-bridge an
![](../images/week10/cap3.jpg)
I discover the function *map* to transform some value to some other which was very usefu because the motor handle values from 0 to 255 and the potential meter have value from 0 to 1023. I modify the code to make the pump go in a way or in an other according to the position of the potential meter.
I discover the function *map* to transform some value to some other which was very usefu because the motor handle values from 0 to 255 and the potential meter have value from 0 to 1023. I modify the code to make the pump go in a way or in an other according to the position of the potential meter.
![](../images/week10/w1011.jpg)
......@@ -415,7 +415,7 @@ void move(int speed, bool testforward) {// speed between 0 and 255 analog write,
void loop() {
// put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
pot = analogRead(A0); // read the value of the potentialmeter
delay(200);
delay(200);
Serial.println(pot); //print the value, to have a check
if(pot < 470){ //separate the value of the potential meter, and have a gap of 40 to be sure to taje the value
speedmotor = map(pot, 470, 0, 0, 255); // the speedmotor variable take the value of pot that is transformed, the speed has to be from 0 to 255, map function transform the value, when the potential meter go farther the origin, it increae the peed of the motor
......@@ -449,13 +449,13 @@ I started by building the electronic system with 2 motors, on for X and one for
![](../images/week10/w105.jpg)
I found on [a blog how to use the shield CNC for Aduino](https://blog.protoneer.co.nz/arduino-cnc-shield/). The shield I have is a V3, and thanks to the picture I succeed to plug eveything to the Arduino, and the writing on the shield. To plug the motor on the right side I looked for a datasheet of the motor to know which wire goes to which wire. I found [this datasheet](https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/928656/MotionKing/17HS3401/1) but the datas are wrong. My instructor helped to find the good side and replugged everything right. To do that we use Dupont wire. We turn the motor manually while plug to hole together with the wire, and when we feel a strength in the motor it means that the color wires go together.
I found on [a blog how to use the shield CNC for Aduino](https://blog.protoneer.co.nz/arduino-cnc-shield/). The shield I have is a V3, and thanks to the picture I succeed to plug eveything to the Arduino, and the writing on the shield. To plug the motor on the right side I looked for a datasheet of the motor to know which wire goes to which wire. I found [this datasheet](https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/928656/MotionKing/17HS3401/1) but the datas are wrong. My instructor helped to find the good side and replugged everything right. To do that we use Dupont wire. We turn the motor manually while plug to hole together with the wire, and when we feel a strength in the motor it means that the color wires go together.
So the red goes with the green, and the blue with the black. Here is the wiring I made.
![](../images/week10/w1010.jpg)
I also installed [Universal Gcode Sender](https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender) to control the motor. And according to [the tutorial I mainly followed on how to use grbl with Arduino](https://letmeknow.fr/shop/fr/blog/110-piloter-une-cnc-avec-arduino-et-grbl).
I also installed [Universal Gcode Sender](https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender) to control the motor. And according to [the tutorial I mainly followed on how to use grbl with Arduino](https://letmeknow.fr/shop/fr/blog/110-piloter-une-cnc-avec-arduino-et-grbl).
I searched to learn more on G.. command in gcode. [The Marlin website](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G091.html) were really useful to understand more the gcode command. On the terminal of UGS (Universal Gcode Sender), I wrote this line to make the motor work
......@@ -476,7 +476,7 @@ And here is the video on how the motors are working with this line of code.
<video controls="true" allowfullscrenn="true" width="50%">
<source src="../../video/week10/vid1.mp4" type="video/mp4">
</video>
</video>
Now I understood a little bit more, I wanted to add my pump to the system. I found the [Gcode command for the spindle here](https://blogs.brighton.ac.uk/danielscncmachine/testing/).
......@@ -514,7 +514,7 @@ Here is the video of the pump controlled by gcode.
<video controls="true" allowfullscrenn="true" width="50%">
<source src="../../video/week10/vid2.mp4" type="video/mp4">
</video>
</video>
## GRBL CNC system
......@@ -632,7 +632,9 @@ This is the schematic given by the manufacturer.
Schematic has some faults in the motor driver silk
<img src="../../images/week10/schematic_01.jpg" alt="schematic_01" width=100%/>
<img src="../../images/week10/diagram_01.jpg" alt="diagram_01" width=100%/>
<img src="../../images/week10/diagram.jpg" alt="diagram_01" width=100%/>
characteristics:
......@@ -1012,7 +1014,6 @@ I've simple shapes to test the
### NC file post-processing
<img src="../../images/week10/fusion_09.jpg" alt="vref_01" width=100%/>
<img src="../../images/week10/fusion_10.jpg" alt="vref_01" width=100%/>
<img src="../../images/week10/fusion_11.jpg" alt="vref_01" width=100%/>
<img src="../../images/week10/fusion_12.jpg" alt="vref_01" width=100%/>
......
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