diff --git a/docs/assignments/week03.md b/docs/assignments/week03.md index 1970dde9ce0120ae84d655db527e6787f39aea4b..c365c60d7fc871d7418c554a9aee6d8a83c88b55 100644 --- a/docs/assignments/week03.md +++ b/docs/assignments/week03.md @@ -1,42 +1,5 @@ # 3. Circular fashion -## Tutorial by Cecilia - -**Source of inspi that are not interlocking textiles** - -Ceci suggested to look for inspiration outside the pinterest board. Don't look at modules! Get inspired by literally anything else, nature, armours, any system with structure. We thought of different things, like: - -* Armours -* Moroccan architecture -* Mandalas -* Snowflakes -* Portuguese tile patterns -* Architectural structures (yes! this is what I got :)) -* indonesian bone carving -* kaleidoscopes! - - -**How to keep it flat** - -* You can make a *male* and a *female* (I prefer tab and slot!), or male/female at the same time. You can also make three different elements -* Think in *directions* (3, eg. triangle, 4 eg rectangle, or 8 eg star. -* By creating *excess*, material sticking out you can create dimeanions. But that's sort of decorative 3D, not structure. - -**How to go 3D** - -Real 3D is always done with triangulation. The shape doesn't really matter, the shape of the *centerpart* is what determines #directions and ways of interlocking. Everything outside the centershape is excess and decoration. - -![]() -*Image of flipover sheet. Puzzling indeed* - -You can use the edges of the center shape, or the corners. Think also about playing with material properties like: colors patterns, transparency, combining thicker and thinner textile. Play with different sizes of the modules. You can also layer up if your holes permit! - -You can use leather, felt etc, rigid materials. But also organza and thinner matterials *can work* can have led to beautiful results. The key is playing around with paper and test cuts. There's not really rules for it. - -Also think of creating *empty space*! Don't succumb to horror vacui, the empty spaces will give room for options and add-ons. - -And lastly, also think about *movement*, loose parts can move when you choose the right material, and have a garment really flow. - ##Assignments must-haves 1. Zero waste! Design on a grid if you want to do this. See Jessica Stanley's [example.](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/assignments/week03/) @@ -68,33 +31,34 @@ And lastly, also think about *movement*, loose parts can move when you choose th **Drag aesthetic** -![]() -*They are probably two of my favs, so crazy/beautiful* -Kimchi and Trixie Mattel + + + +Here are two of my fav drag queens who featured on RuPaul: Kimchi (top) and Trixie Mattel (bottom), and Violet Chachki (bottom right), who is probably not my favourite, but this pink tassled ensembluh is pretty amazing. -Volume! Pink and Green! +What I love love love about kimchi is her fearless choice of geometric garments. I mean she goes big and chunky and pulls it off so well. I think she self-tailors almost all of it too. And the color palette with the pastels, especially the minty green with pink. It's a win. +Trixie on the other hand, way less avant-garde and instead more country-barbie on steroids just know her hot pinks and I love how she uses big shoulders and jackets for added curve and swerv. She makes ugly even uglier. Utmost respect. I'm all for the camp. **Technical inspiration** Increasing and increasing like knitting -Church! -![]() +This church I pass by everyday actually has a gorgeous pattern! The way it goes from small elements to bigger ones is also a way to increase and decrease in width. One of the things I'd like to do. + +<br> *The church I pass by every day, Loes Bogers* -Tesselation +**Tesselation and interlocking inspiration** -* See documentation of of jessica stanley from last year: it's male/female AND zero waste. +* See documentation of of [Jessica stanley](https://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/assignments/week03/) from last year: it's male/female AND zero waste. * You can encode messages in the textile too! Eg. Jessica's binary. -* See Irene Caretti's dress. So gorgeousssss -* Rei Kabakubo-Comme des Garcons worn by Rihanna. OMG yes. -* Post-Couture Antwerp. Look at their double interlocks. It helps to make things really wearable. Like a tiewrap. -* Häckel's biological studies, drawings! - -![]() -*Things I like by......* +* [Rei Kabakubo-Comme des Garcons worn by Rihanna](https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/2017-met-gala-comme-des-garcons-red-carpet-rihanna/all). OMG yes. +* [Post-Couture Antwerp](https://www.postcouture.cc/). Look at their double interlocks. It helps to make things really wearable. Like a tiewrap. +* [Ernst Heinrich Häckel's biological drawings](http://www.openculture.com/2017/11/ernst-haeckels-sublime-drawings-of-flora-and-fauna.html)! + +*Other beauties by (left to right): Katie Roberts-Wood, Matija Cop and Stephane Rolland AW16 Haute Couture* **Personal preferences:** @@ -109,27 +73,24 @@ Tesselation * crazy tiny pieces (horror assembling) * very thick structures that need a lot of material to cover a small area -## Research +## Research -**Sketching** -![]() -*Lots of sketches* + +*Lots of sketches and try-outs, Loes Bogers* -**An attempt at mathsy thinking** -![]() -*Me trying to wrap my head around directions, and cecilia's explanation of making a module in Rhino :)* +**Sketching and paper prototyping** -**Paper try-outs** -![]() -*Yes!!! Why it gotta be flat though?* +I tried out a bunch of things in paper and was immediately trying to make even the paper version go 3D, by finding options to increase width and decrease width, like you can do with crochet for example. Somewhat successful, definitely settled my ambition to go for volume. This phase was really necessary to wrap my head around the technique, and the paramaters to think about. +<br> + +<br> +*Me trying to wrap my head around directions, and Cecilia's explanation of making a module in Rhino :)* -I tried out a bunch of things in paper and was immediately trying to make even the paper version go 3D, by finding options to increase width and decrease width. Somewhat successful, definitely settled my ambition to go for volume. ## Test 1: keep it simple, explore materials -![]() -![]() -![]() +<br> +*Playing and assembling with the same module cut from different materials, Loes Bogers* **Same module, different materials** @@ -141,35 +102,41 @@ I tested my basic square module with: * *fake leather* (green) - keeps integrity very nicely! Lies very flat, few burn marks, nice clean cut, totally keeps its shape, falls heavy down the lines of the body. Can be very nice. * *organza* (hot pink) - love the color, love the transparency effect. Hate how much it frays during handling. This is not for me at all. Also cutting at a diagonal didn't solve this. I dont' have a high pain threshold for fraying fabric. + +<br> +*Testing with EVA foam and loose felt, Loes Bogers* + **Oh a potential winner!** * *the EVA foam* - this is thermoformable hobby foam - a property that could be nice to explore later too - and it's alive! Even using plan rectangles it starts to curve a bit, and playing with directions, alternating between slotting the tabs in from the back or front already gives curves, and creates tubes shapes. Greaaaat!!!! It also feels very nice on the skin. It's a bit stinky to cut, and there's slight burning but I can try reduce it with the settings. The tabs do change shape a little when manipulating it, but it also adds a nice irregularity to the computational vibe I guess? I can live with it. It can stand some diffuse strain, but not tearing at one point. +## Test 2: Increasing and decreasing + +For the second tests I wanted to continue with the fake leather and foam and try to make modules that I can use to increase and decrease to make nice shapes around the body. I took the church as inspiration but went for a somewhat simpler diamond shape. + +I started with only one manipulation: by only increasing the size of the module on one axis and keeping the other the same. I cut it and just started playing with it. I thought changing both axes could be the next step. + +<br> +*Swatches: (clockwise) denim outside and inside of cloth, loose felt, fake leather, EVA foam (white and pink). The white, pink and green swatch are cut in the second iteration of the design, you can see how they start curving. Loes Bogers* + +But that step never came! I unintentionally started rotating the pieces, thereby accidentally creating increase on the x-axis AND the y-axis, which magically worked out really well! + + +*Explanation of what happened and how it accidentally has some kind of mathematical logic to it...???* + **Laser tricks** * pieces flying away? Turn the screw of the laser head to reduce the airflow from the blower in the laser head (at my lab at work). Perfection, no fire. Do not try this without consulting your lab manager * pieces flying away? Put a piece of cardboard under your material, spray it generously with water, and stick you fabric on (temporarily). * Don't use speed 400 for small designs, it never catches up to speed so you're using pseudo settings. Test cut with a module, not a 10mmx10mm square. - **Design tricks** * Path finder > Outline to take out double lines (save yourself laser time!) * Great way to make arrays that transform along the way (scaling and moving): in the menu bar: Effect - Distort & Transform - Transform tool. Also see [this tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVQPzMRGwl0), by Project Lady (amazinggggg name btw) for further instructions on adding organic-looking warps after. Did not get to it for now but would be very interesting to play with. - -## Test 2: Take me to church. Not. - -For the second tests I wanted to continue with the fake leather and foam and try to make modules that I can use to increase and decrease to make nice shapes around the body. I took the church as inspiration but went for a somewhat simpler diamond shape. - -I started with only one manipulation: by only increasing the size of the module on one axis and keeping the other the same. I cut it and just started playing with it. I thought changing both axes could be the next step. - -![]() - -But that step never came! I unintentionally started rotating the pieces, thereby accidentally creating increase on the x-axis AND the y-axis, which magically worked out really well! - -![]() -*Explanation of what happened and how it accidentally has some kind of mathematical logic to it...???* +<br> +*No shortage on ideas: a veil comb, a bikini, part of a sleeve* ## Redesigning the module @@ -177,7 +144,9 @@ But that step never came! I unintentionally started rotating the pieces, thereby 3. settled on design with 2x slots and 2x tabs 4. made half modules for finishing seams 5. made nr 5 a square because difference impossible to see by eye 6. only using 1-8 so left out 9 and 10 -7. scaled the size of the set so that the nr 5 is 40x40mm for ease and speed of cutting and assembling an entire garment. The smalles piece looked beautiful but is very fragile and hard to assemble. ![]() +7. scaled the size of the set so that the nr 5 is 40x40mm for ease and speed of cutting and assembling an entire garment. The smalles piece looked beautiful but is very fragile and hard to assemble. + +**Ordering material** I ordered 4 metres of pink 2mm EVA foam (90cm width) to make sure I have enough for the jacket. In the future I would like to work only with leftovers generated in our lab however. We use these sheets for the vacuum thermoforming machine. We cut the big sheets into smaller ones that fit the size of the vacuum window but there's always a lot of waste that is offered as free material for students. We only had enough for testing at the moment though, not for an entire garment. I ordered at Marion Hoop Design's [Webshop](https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=marion+hoop+design+foam+fuchsia). Boerenbonthal used to have it but it's gone out of their collection. Hoop is currently one of few retailers to stock this material. ![]() *New modules, Loes Bogers* ## Estimating increase/decrease and number of modules to make a bomber jacket @@ -194,6 +163,39 @@ I want to model somewhat intuitively, but should study which parts of a bomber j ## Step-by-step Ikea guide to DIY this -## Bonus section & recitation +## Tutorial by Cecilia + +**Source of inspi that are not interlocking textiles** + +Ceci suggested to look for inspiration outside the pinterest board. Don't look at modules! Get inspired by literally anything else, nature, armours, any system with structure. We thought of different things, like: + +* Armours +* Moroccan architecture +* Mandalas +* Snowflakes +* Portuguese tile patterns +* Architectural structures (yes! this is what I got :)) +* indonesian bone carving +* kaleidoscopes! + + +**How to keep it flat** + +* You can make a *male* and a *female* (I prefer tab and slot!), or male/female at the same time. You can also make three different elements +* Think in *directions* (3, eg. triangle, 4 eg rectangle, or 8 eg star. +* By creating *excess*, material sticking out you can create dimeanions. But that's sort of decorative 3D, not structure. + +**How to go 3D** + +Real 3D is always done with triangulation. The shape doesn't really matter, the shape of the *centerpart* is what determines #directions and ways of interlocking. Everything outside the centershape is excess and decoration. + +<br> +*Image of flipover sheet with Cecilia's explanation* + +You can use the edges of the center shape, or the corners. Think also about playing with material properties like: colors patterns, transparency, combining thicker and thinner textile. Play with different sizes of the modules. You can also layer up if your holes permit! + +You can use leather, felt etc, rigid materials. But also organza and thinner matterials *can work* can have led to beautiful results. The key is playing around with paper and test cuts. There's not really rules for it. + +Also think of creating *empty space*! Don't succumb to horror vacui, the empty spaces will give room for options and add-ons. -Bonus is a bonus \ No newline at end of file +And lastly, also think about *movement*, loose parts can move when you choose the right material, and have a garment really flow. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_applications.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_applications.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..4a407a62feae4d9e2feae99d474b50e231a6501d Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_applications.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_ceciexplains.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_ceciexplains.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..05f22b4e98ecd486ca7ec92a534b632388683ccc Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_ceciexplains.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_ceciexplains2.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_ceciexplains2.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..cebed2ff488c8b511c94f1831449feee46375f6e Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_ceciexplains2.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_church.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_church.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..1f44df0afd5fb57d46949131c6c04e3ef203e9b8 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_church.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_interlockinginspi.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_interlockinginspi.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..5e6d15ae6b2d0f9a15d9de5c4fd370514a3f0921 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_interlockinginspi.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_kimchi.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_kimchi.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..b08d1257d18088c607eeb8173490bfad397dcd44 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_kimchi.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_paperprototyping.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_paperprototyping.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..bfe9853a202ac5d50d60b2032ae77afea90ad063 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_paperprototyping.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_playing.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_playing.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..aa9eada4b3c2b962e28eb6131de0b1e182fc6464 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_playing.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_swatches2.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_swatches2.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..0133e944d7677808158ca0fb3a97c65dc80c555c Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_swatches2.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_tests.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_tests.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..efa53e542cd57c03207a78b2197427cf29d0035a Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_tests.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk03_trixie.jpg b/docs/images/wk03_trixie.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..3a0a71c598837b955cd29853c2bf44a289dc484a Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk03_trixie.jpg differ