diff --git a/docs/assignments/week04.md b/docs/assignments/week04.md index 18890370714513ed61d0f7bb111e51b61faae3d3..abd6c7eb44d10386f3a9f383d633255870131c47 100644 --- a/docs/assignments/week04.md +++ b/docs/assignments/week04.md @@ -5,17 +5,17 @@ ## Results -**Dyes**<br> -The students in the Amsterdam lab collaborated to make a shared repository of dyed fibres (yarns and swatches). We individually made an overview of dying with a particular material: I worked with CABBAGE and we all died several cottons, hemp, sugar cane, algae, silk, mohair, linen, felt, and cheesecloth. +*A love affair with cabbage, Loes Bogers 2019* -![]()*A love affair with red cabbage, Loes Bogers 2019* +**Dyes**<br> +The students in the Amsterdam lab collaborated to make a shared repository of dyed fibres (yarns and swatches). We individually made an overview of dyeing with a particular material: I worked with CABBAGE and we all died several cottons, hemp, sugar cane, algae, silk, mohair, linen, felt, and cheesecloth. **Inks**<br> We made a range of inks based on the dye recipes (some modified, others not) and experimented with it on paper, using several modifiers. *Paper stains with homemade inks, Loes Bogers 2019* -**Dying with bacteria**<br> +**dyeing with bacteria**<br> And lastly, dyed a piece of silk using Serratia Marcensis grown and nurtured by Cecilia and her collaborators at the Biolab. We cooked the growing medium together, sterilized together and each dyed our own piece of silk: ![]()*Silk died with Serratia Marcensis, Loes Bogers 2019* @@ -25,7 +25,7 @@ And lastly, dyed a piece of silk using Serratia Marcensis grown and nurtured by **What's what?**<br> Here's what I picked up from [Cecilia's lectureand slides](https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week04/), and her lab tutorial. -* *Dye* is basically a liquid bath, its soluble in water, and goes into the fiber (which you pen up first by *scouring* them if you're dying plant fibres). +* *Dye* is basically a liquid bath, its soluble in water, and goes into the fiber (which you pen up first by *scouring* them if you're dyeing plant fibres). * *Ink* is a more dense liquid, also soluble in water, also goes into the material. * *Pigment* is a powder, it's not soluble (in water) and goes onto the material @@ -33,28 +33,28 @@ Here's what I picked up from [Cecilia's lectureand slides](https://class.textile * *Vehicle/solvent*: the thing that gets the color out of your dye stuff! If only you could squeeze color out of everything you see, but no. If you want to dye textile, you're probably better off soaking your dye material in something it can release its color into. For example in water or ethanol (high percentage alcohol) - which we used for dyeing - or oil or gel. -* *Binder*: in some cases, the color might need a bit of extra help to merge with the vehicle and prevent it from separating. A binder helps, such as arabic gum. For dying, more often referred to as *mordant*. +* *Binder*: in some cases, the color might need a bit of extra help to merge with the vehicle and prevent it from separating. A binder helps, such as arabic gum. For dyeing, more often referred to as *mordant*. * *Additive*: with salt, vinegar or minerals you can do extra bonus stuff! Like stabilize or even out the distribution of dye in the water and fibres (salt), intensify the color (mordants like alum, copper, iron), preserving, thickening, or modifying the color (magic!). You can modify for example PH sensitive dyes by adding more acidic modifiers (citric acid, vinegar), or more alkaline liquids (like soda ash dissolved in water, and sometimes tap water itself cam be alkaline, as I discovered. -* *Mordants (or dye fixatives)*: are used as a bridge between the color you extract from the dye matter and the fibre. It's like the glue you need to keep them together. You can use iron liqueur, copper liqueur, alum powder (dissolved in hot water). Mordants can effect the shade of the dye too (soda for example is alkali). So keep this in mind. Mordants can be used before dying (pre-mordanting), it can be added to the dye bath itself (meta-mordanting, like Bela did with her Lichens), of after the bath (post-mordanting)x§ +* *Mordants (or dye fixatives)*: are used as a bridge between the color you extract from the dye matter and the fibre. It's like the glue you need to keep them together. You can use iron liqueur, copper liqueur, alum powder (dissolved in hot water). Mordants can effect the shade of the dye too (soda for example is alkali). So keep this in mind. Mordants can be used before dyeing (pre-mordanting), it can be added to the dye bath itself (meta-mordanting, like Bela did with her Lichens), of after the bath (post-mordanting)x§ * *Recipes*: will give you starting points for ratios between all of the above, and the do's and don'ts. Start with a recipe, deviate widely and systematically! <3 * *Unbleached fibres*: are so hard to get! It's a pity because bleach is bad... -* *Animal fibres*: get your protein! Like silk, wool, mohair, camel, alpaca, angora. These don't need to be scoured before dying, they tend to dye well in bright, deep colors. The protein binds well with mordant - which then bonds with the dye - and responds to acid and alkaline modifiers. Do not boil animal fibres! Keep them simmering at 80 degrees celcius. Do not shock them in cold water when rinsing. +* *Animal fibres*: get your protein! Like silk, wool, mohair, camel, alpaca, angora. These don't need to be scoured before dyeing, they tend to dye well in bright, deep colors. The protein binds well with mordant - which then bonds with the dye - and responds to acid and alkaline modifiers. Do not boil animal fibres! Keep them simmering at 80 degrees celcius. Do not shock them in cold water when rinsing. * *Vegetable fibres*: get your cellulose! Cotton, jute, hemp, algae, linen, sugar cane etc. These need to be scoured to open up the fibres before dyeing. You can boil and shock these, they won't be bothered. Not all veg fibre is sustainable! e.g. viscose is a plant, but the processes used to create it are highly chemical. -* *Scouring*: is done with scouring agents such as sodium ash (sodium carbonate/natrium carbonate). These are used to prepare vegetable fibres for dying, basically to clean them by removing all the waxes, pectins to makes the textile material hydrophilic or water absorbent. +* *Scouring*: is done with scouring agents such as sodium ash (sodium carbonate/natrium carbonate). These are used to prepare vegetable fibres for dyeing, basically to clean them by removing all the waxes, pectins to makes the textile material hydrophilic or water absorbent. * *Stabilizers*: like salt, helps color distribute evenly in the water, and in the fibres you dye in it. * *Modifiers:* substances that change the hue of the dye. *PH modifiers* change color by changing the PH toward more acidic (vinegar, citric acid, alum), or more alkaline (sodium carbonate). *Metal modifiers* can also alter color: copper makes the hues more blue/green, whereas iron makes them duller/darker in tone. -##Dying process in steps +##Dyeing process in steps ### 0. Make skeins @@ -105,7 +105,9 @@ We separated the fibres so everyone had 2-3 skeins of each fabric. We all picked ### 6. Documenting and archiving -THis is the basic info to document my colors. I created 5 colors with my dye. +This is the basic info to document my colors. I created 5 colors with my dye. + +*Cabbage dye overview, Loes Bogers 2019* **Dye stuff** @@ -125,15 +127,6 @@ THis is the basic info to document my colors. I created 5 colors with my dye. * Modifier 3: Alkaline PH modifier, sodium carbonate (soda ash) dissolved in water (2 pinches on 300 ml hot water) * Thickener: - -**Catologueing** - -* By color (the designer's brain) -* By dying material (the dyer's brain) -* Think of a logic -* A visual system -* Expressive, or systematic, or both -* Research different analytical models, besides mapping - ##My love affair with cabbage ###1 hour dye @@ -173,9 +166,6 @@ Cecilia mentioned that cabbage is known to lose its color. There's definitely no Waking up on Friday, I came down to see the beauties to notice that the unmodified dye and the alkaline modification (pink) had both changed, and were now very close to one another in color. So I thought I'd try a little something, and dipped a piece in vinegar (maybe a bit harsh, I forgot to dilute). It immediately turned bright fuchsia pink! Before it had stayed a little in the lilac/purple hues. I thought this was nice, another modification. So I chopped the earlier alkaline modification in half and dunked it in a vinegar solution, adding a nice pink set to the collection. Let's see if it stays! -*After the second vinegar dip, loes bogers, 2019* - - ##Inks @@ -286,7 +276,7 @@ Bring the water in the pressure cooker to the boil and let them steam *under pre ###Folding and sterilizing the fabric -We each got a piece of silk that we folded or crumpled up to create patterns/symmetry in the dying pattern SM will create for us. Add a couple of stitches to keep it all together. We sterilize the substrate because otherwise you might be growing just about any bacteria that ever touched your silk. We want to constrain the growing to Serratia. Silk dyes really well, it's protein-based because it's an animal fibre. +We each got a piece of silk that we folded or crumpled up to create patterns/symmetry in the dyeing pattern SM will create for us. Add a couple of stitches to keep it all together. We sterilize the substrate because otherwise you might be growing just about any bacteria that ever touched your silk. We want to constrain the growing to Serratia. Silk dyes really well, it's protein-based because it's an animal fibre. <br>*My folding improvisation, Loes Bogers, 2019* @@ -325,7 +315,7 @@ Steps: **Two techniques to dye with bacteria:** * Grow bacteria directly on the fabric (what we're doing) -* Extract the color and dying with that (will learn later) +* Extract the color and dyeing with that (will learn later) When growing directly on the fabric, you first soak the silk with a liquid growing medium - we used LB broth. Work in a sterile matter within the sterile bubble, similar to how we did the plating. No moving, no talking! Then you inoculate, or: add the bacteria to your sterile plates/fabrics. diff --git a/docs/images/wk04_collage.jpg b/docs/images/wk04_collage.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..9cf65852cb880257e0f0cdd357024f492f43fa6a Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk04_collage.jpg differ diff --git a/docs/images/wk04_overview.jpg b/docs/images/wk04_overview.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000..df55bd58a4e645682dd1c50bc4986a9d4666b11d Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/images/wk04_overview.jpg differ